| ID: 6566 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Boost gauge Question: on a standard boost gauge on the clocks, where should the needle go to if running standard boost, i want to know if my cars boost has been cranked up or not. what do they run standard? Answer: 7 psi standard, the needle should point to the 'B' of TURBO on the standard gauge. |
| ID: 6569 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: wiring on anti-perc Question: hi wizard i want to take my anti-perc fan out for good but started taking wires out and dont know what ones to take out cos they go to a relay and then all over the engine, can i take the relay and all wires conected out or is it more complicated? Answer: If you can spend the time tracing the wires from the relay base then you can remove them completly if you wish but it may be an easier option just to remove the relay and leave the fan disconnected. essentially, the relay has a perm live feed, its coil side is wired through the 2 parrallel sensors (below the carb and in the turbo heat shield) and then feeds the perc fan via the switched side. |
| ID: 6570 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: strong smell of fuel Question: hi wiz,im after your help once again.. for a good few months now i have a really strong smell of petrol.it started when i changed the carb top from a standard one to a gt tuning one..you advised me to get a thicker o ring which i have done but the smell has not gone away..could it be the carb thats the problem.....i also have an incar adjustable boost controller which at the mo has run at 10psi cheers ivan Answer: Did you happen to change the piping to your incar boost ? If your incar boost takes its feed from the port on the passanger side of the carb then this will contain fuel aswell as air. If your incar boost also 'vents' inside the car then you'll smell fuel, usually more so on boost. If this sounds about right, try piping your incar upto the carb top instead of the port on the side of the carb. You'll usually get a little less boost so you may have to turn the bleed valve further out or wind up the actuator a bit 
|
| ID: 6571 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: hot dog burner Question: hi mate on my 5 the metal pipe going from the lobster in to the turbo elbow (exhaust side) was removed when i had the car. i thought i would refit it. upon hitting boost 9-10 psi there was an underwear soiling pop from the exhaust. after getting home a reblocked the hole and removed the pipe. it has had no adverse effects on performence but do you know why this is happening - many thanks Answer: That sounds a bit odd - adding that pipe back in might alter the boost a bit but it can't really be the cause of the pop. If you hadn't of mentioned the 9-10psi thing then I'd have guessed that re-fitting the pipe was causing it to overboost and tripping the over-boost sensor, which causes propper ignition cut type poppage! Did you get an increase in boost when you re-fitted it ? If so, maybe I'm on the right track and your overboost sensor has been adjusted, or is (for some other reason) tripping to early. |
| ID: 6572 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: external wastgate Question: I have a universal external wastegate and screamer pipe but i don't know how it has to be fitted or where the best place to put it also what will i have to do to the turbo.thanks for your time dave. Answer: They go pre-turbo, so either you'll have to modify the exhaust manifold (good luck, it's cast), or perhaps fabricate a spacer plate type arrangement to fit between the manifold outlet/flange and turbo inlet/flange and mount the wastegate there. All that has to be done to the turbo is the wastegate within has to be welded shut. Sounds like too much aggro and a waste of money for no gain whatsoever to me, but each to their own.. |
| ID: 6578 | Date: 05/11/08 | Member: GordonB | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Brake binding Question: What can i do to prevent my brakes from binding when the car is laid up in my garage for months on end? The handbrake stays off, and the wheels are chocked to prevent the car from rolling... but everytime i take it out of the garage the rear wheels are completely locked up. Answer: sounds like moisture is getting between the pad and the disc surface. you can either, wind the calipers back slightly, damp proof the garage. or ignore it and just drive off in first and the brakes will free off? |
| ID: 6581 | Date: 05/11/08 | Member: Sy5GTT | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Actuator Rod Question: Wizard me old mucka. I'm going to fit a Cossie T3 actuator to my T2/T25. If I make the rod the same lenght as the one on at the moment will the boost be the same? Answer: no, it wont be the same, as the tension in the internal spring is much greater in the t3 actuator.... hence more boost. |
| ID: 6582 | Date: 05/11/08 | Member: car.crash | Wizard: Scoff |
|
Subject: chassis setup Question: i want to improve the handling of my 5 for track use. i have koni adjustables all round with a 50mm drop, full cage and strut braces. but i feel there is more to be had from it, any ideas on how i can make it corner faster besides slicks and tuition. Answer: Corners are a lot about body roll. If the car rolls (leans) then grip is compromised. Generally, if you are after making the car stick on a smooth tarmac sufrace like a race track then you'd want things to be stiff, very stiff with no body roll. Body roll buggers up suspension geometry and means that tyres are no longer sat square on the road. With super stiff suspension you maybe would not need to deviate that much from standard geometry. If you are after something that doesn't break your back on the road but that works "ok" on the track then you need to compromise. go as stiff as you can before it becomes uncomfortable. maybe look at ways of stiffening the anti-roll bar to reduce roll. some roll will occur on any road-usable suspension - maybe you could look at increasing the amount of negative camber at the front to reduce understeer (this works by helping to keep the outside front tyre square to the road in a corner). matching the dampers to the spring rate is important too, thats a job for experimentation, too little or too much damping will have odd effects. I also can't tell you how important good tyres are. you could look at sticky road legal tyres like Toyo R888, they really are as good as people say they are. |
| ID: 6583 | Date: 05/11/08 | Member: Noserick | Wizard: Mart |
|
Subject: how much boost Question: Hi, im currently fitting a t28 to my 5 an planning on sorting my carb soon also but i was woundering how much boost my bottom end will take pistons ext? cheers Answer: Providing good lubrication is present, the gtt bottom-end is pretty bullet-proof. Piston durability wise, opinions differ, but tread carefully if you're planning on running more than 1.5bar boost. Standard cast liners will take a fair bit more than that. For sure, take time in getting the carb set up correctly throughout the rev range, although more important at full boost conditions, as this area is the main focal point for engine reliability. |
| ID: 6585 | Date: 08/11/08 | Member: murf89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: clutch Question: i can select gears correctly when engine switched off but not when engine is turned on i cant select any at all clutch and gearbox are correct and cable is new please help Answer: check to see that the clutch fork is moving correctly when you get a volunteer to press the clutch. infact as you have just fitted the clutch cable, i bet that you didnt feed the cable through the loop on top of the clutch pedal ratchet. if it dont go through the 'loop' then it makes the cable theoretically longer and you cant get the gears. get ur head down in the footwell with a torch and have a good look. |
| ID: 6587 | Date: 09/11/08 | Member: murf89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: clutch 2 Question: i have tried everyhting you said prior and it seems to pull the arm off more but still not enough could it be the way the cable is routed thnaks Answer: as far as im aware it doesnt matter how the cable is routed- as long as its not resting on the exhaust obviously.... is it a genuine renault cable? - black outer with a grey and yellow sticker on it. - did you compare it to the one you took off - for differences in length? - both the inner and outer cable? |
| ID: 6586 | Date: 09/11/08 | Member: cokigtt | Wizard: Scoff |
|
Subject: Egt problems !! Question: Hi Wizard.. the problem starts on 115mph, the turbo is GT28R Ball Bearing, and boost are 22psi !! standart engine , LightWeight Flywheel, Head porting.. I have Aem wide band .. the aem ratio on boost are 1:11.8 after 10sec boost its up to 1:12... Also the egt start get more than 900cc .. the ignition i dunno what to do, i have swap the wire.. witch gives 4 degrees advanced .. i'm using 99 fuel octane, witch means the best fuel we have in israel ... the compression ratio is ok, the head thikness is 74mm.. standart , the head gasket is 1.6 of mellor. the pistons are standart !! what you suggest me to do !! to advanced more than 4 dergress !!? thanks. Carlos. Answer: first up, 900° isn't that high, 950° and I'd start to get worried. You might find that the EGT levels out and does not rise more than 900°. have you tried pushing it ? if EGT continues to rise then these are the probable causes: 1/ not enough ignition advance 2/ compression ratio too low people sometimes confuse high EGT with "bad" things like detonation or preignition. this is not true, they often LOWER the EGT since heat is instead being absorbed by the pistons and liners rarther than being discharged in the exhaust. You can easilly melt an engine with "cool" EGT's. But, here's the thing... You're running 22psi on a standard compression engine with advanced ignition. You WILL be close to the detonation threshold at that. I expect you probably won't be able to do much about your EGT. If you're really desperate to lower it then you could look at the following maybe: 1/ water injection 2/ advance the cam timing, although expect to loose some high-rpm HP. 3/ install a mappable ignition so that you can increase advance at higher RPMs, after peak torque where detonation is less likely. |
| ID: 6588 | Date: 11/11/08 | Member: Jono | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Oil & Water Mixing Question: Hi Wiz, My oil and water have mixed. The oil is really milky and oil is also present in the water. I have done a compression test and all pots were exactly 10bar. I have also pressure tested the turbo and radiator but I cant find any leaks. Im not sure where to check next. Any advice appreciated Thanks . J Answer: its down to 3 things. a leak between the oil way and the water on the headgasket, that hasnt intruded into the pot. a leaky liner seal. or a leak internally in the head where it is cast. -the oilway cracks and leaks into the head's waterway. how quickly does the oil/water mix? - slow or fast leak? |
| ID: 6590 | Date: 13/11/08 | Member: ranj | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Re-jetting the Carb Question: I am gonna be running upto 18psi manifold on a gt28r next year , but now i am gonna run 18psi on a T25. I used to have a Grp A Carb that had a 140 main jet and it fuelled ok at WOT but rich everywhere else. So after much info from the rtoc i have now gone back to standard carb , can you make a guesstimate at the jets i should use to fuel for 18psi .. i will check fuelling with wideband lambda............ my own guess is drilled 1.4mm 2nd stage , 0.9 air corrector and the standard 120 jet. Your guess wizard ??? Answer: i guess that a 1.2 2nd stage and a 1mm A/C. however, if i had my old school tuning cap on, id say stick a 135 main jet in there and leave it at that... |
| ID: 6591 | Date: 14/11/08 | Member: bishy3000 | Wizard: Mart |
|
Subject: LSD Question: Hi do you know if it is possible to get limited slip diff for a phase 2 Renault 5? Cheers Answer: Quaife do an atb diff for the jb3 gearbox, but it's not cheap. A Gripper diff is the other, more 'popular', alternative. Russell T for one ran/is running one of these & has always waxed lyrical about it. |
| ID: 6592 | Date: 19/11/08 | Member: gttjames | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Lightened and balanced flywheel Question: Was going to ask about advancing timing but have seen some of your replies on that. Am fitting the volvo clutch soon, while im there is it worth fitting cgb's lightened and balanced flywheel by 20% Am using a standard engine, and am going to be using fmic and a t25 thanks Answer: whilst its out it is always worth fitting a lightened and balanced flywheel. have you not thought about one of the 9 slot super light variety that are floating about? |
| ID: 6593 | Date: 20/11/08 | Member: gttjames | Wizard: Scoff |
|
Subject: lightened and balanced flywheel 2 Question: Have been speaking to A few people to get some knowledge, they say a lb flywheel will make normal driving a pain as need lots of revs to pull away and be rubbish off boost. So am thinking instead of going for a heavily lb flywheel, just get the 20% one from cgb as this way it wont be to bad? as am only going for fast road spec, ie small t25 with 18/20 psi, standard engine internalls, what do you think, thanks Answer: Unfortunately, they are talking crap. How do they imagine that a lighter flywheel will cost you torque ? it can't. Put simply, if your foot is on the throttle then the engine is making power and you will pull away. a flywheel does not make power. They might argue that the lighter flywheel makes it hard to keep the revs stable if you wern't accelerating that hard at the time. In other words, the mass of the flywheel would otherwise have kept the cars momentum going. In reality though it doesn't happen. I've used 3.7kg flywheels on my C1J's, about as light as they get, and the drivability is not harmed in the slightest. Instead you gain throttle responce between gears, better responce in launches and so on. Don't expect to feel much, if any difference while you're on the move though. Once your rolling the mass of the car far outweighs that of any flywheel. Go for the lightest one you can find. You might aswell get your money's worth. |
| ID: 6594 | Date: 21/11/08 | Member: Noserick | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: oil feed adaptor fot t28 Question: hi iv recently got hold of a t28 for my 5 got it all fitted but the oil feed in to the turbo is a dif size any idea ware i can take the turbo an oil feed pipe to get an adaptor ? i dont know of any turbo specialists in my area somerset Answer: see if you have a Pirtek close by. you will need to take the standard oil feed and the new turbo to them so they can make summat up. pirtek are a hose specialist, not a turbo specialist. this is the type of place you have to look for ;) |
| ID: 6597 | Date: 28/11/08 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Scoff |
|
Subject: copper pipe and fittings Question: what thred size is on the end of the copper pipe where it goes into the rubber hose and the split block. also what size is the pipe. Answer: The fittings should be M10x1mm. on some brake compensators I think there were some 11mm thread's so that you couldn't mix the ports up. measure across the thread, most are M10 (10mm). Pipe is 3/16" Wiz |
| ID: 6598 | Date: 30/11/08 | Member: lawjon84 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: seals Question: hi i have a spare turbo but if i blow hard through oil inlet and block off oil outlet i can here air leak from exhaust side seal,does this mean turbo has had it,or should i fit it and test it Answer: oil is alot thicker than air.... so what i would suggest is the 'wobble the shaft test'. see if the shaft in the centre of the turbo moves in and out. if it does at all....its feckered. then check to see up and down wobble....you can allow 0.5mm play either side. - so thats 1mm movement total... much more than that and its not looking good. if that is all ok, then fit it and see what happens. |
| ID: 6599 | Date: 03/12/08 | Member: Jamie Eddolls | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: morrettes Question: I would like to fit morrettes to my 5 and take the n/s sidelight out, to fit an air intake. Is this illegal. I did wonder whether I could relocate the sidelight bulb to the headlamp, but I didn't know whether this would disturb the beam pattern? Answer: i cant remember whether the bulbs used on the outers are double filament or not. to be road legal you would definately need a side light, a dipped and a main. - so if you could fit a dipped/mainbeam type bulb into the headlamp you would be nearly there... im not sure whether a side light actually has to be in the headlamp.....if you got clear indicators, id imagine it wouldn't take too much to pop a side light bulb in the clear part of the indicator, away from the orange shroud. abit like the turbo 2.... ;) |
| ID: 6600 | Date: 03/12/08 | Member: matty j | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: changing a clutch Question: hi wizard whats the best way to change the clutch and why?? is it engine in or engine out and how would i do it as mine is buggered cheers Answer: do you have an engine lifter? if yes, then take the engine out and leave the gearbox in, that way you dont have to drain the gearbox, mess with the driveshafts or the hubs. (much easier) if no, the you have to drop the subframe slightly and wrestle with a few jacks to get just over and inch space, so you can get the clutch on and off. |
| ID: 6601 | Date: 07/12/08 | Member: bernard | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fitting engine with gearbox in place Question: Im just wondering if it is possible to refit a engine with the head on with manifolds etc, with the gearbox in place. I know I can do it with the head off because thats how I got it out but because I need to do the cam timing the head has got be on. Answer: yeah its quite easy. remove the two dowels that stick out the gearbox case, that bolt to the engine. make sure you dont fit the crank pulley either. tilt the gearbox up with the aid of a trolley jack under it. drop the engine it and start swearig when it takes a while to line up the engine and gearbox. its not too bad. might be worth looking at the articles section too ;) |
| ID: 6602 | Date: 08/12/08 | Member: matty j | Wizard: Mart |
|
Subject: Rear light problem Question: Hi wizard My drivers side rear light when I have the headlights on doesnt work yet when I brake the light comes on?? I have changed bulbs, the cluster and checked the fuse but still nothing?? Any ideas?? The passenger side is fine Cheers Matt Answer: Have you made sure the bulb is the right way round for starters? Try rotating it 180deg', refit, and see what happens then. also, check the earth connection (13mm bolt behind the light) |
| ID: 6603 | Date: 08/12/08 | Member: matty j | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: rear light problem part 2 Question: i have used the cluster from the other side which does work and nothing and have just turned the bulb round and nothing?? it worked last month for the mot??? Answer: time to get the voltmeter out. look at the haynes manual, and the see if the voltage is getting to the plug.if it is, then you have a connection problem. its not hard to test. not sure the connections are the same from left to right hand lights. |
| ID: 6604 | Date: 09/12/08 | Member: rs250nut | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: gearbag Question: It has a hole in it and I dont know what its for it has the code JB3S004. The other gearbag I have has a code of JB3032 and does not have the hole. My head is starting to hurt now, please help Answer: JB3 S04 is a renault reconditioned box. i have one on mine. the hole is most likely where the speedo cable fits on non turbo cars.- its usually got a black plug in it. (does the hole face upwards is in at the back of the gearbox casing?) the JB3032 is the ph2 gtt gearbox, that uses the electronic speedo cable. your recon one might have the correct internals to run the electronic speedo, but also a hole for where the mechanical speedo cable used to fit. |
| ID: 6605 | Date: 10/12/08 | Member: matty j | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Rear lights part 3 Question: What colour wires are the ones for the rear light when on dim?? I've checked the power from the front of the car and it's fine so need to change the cable to the rear Cheers Answer: do you own a haynes manual? how did u check the power from the front of the car? have you tried putting the voltmeter on the various connection at the plug that slides onto the rear light unit? |
| ID: 6606 | Date: 10/12/08 | Member: matty j | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fuel gauge not showing correct amount Question: hi wiz i sorted the rear light problem was down to a dodgy clip, i also did have a haynes but the misses binned it so awaiting for my new one to be delivered. right the problem i have now is that my petrol gauge always shows full or nearly full until a couple of minutes before it runs out?? any ideas as i havent got a clue cheers matt Answer: you will need to take the fuel tank sender out and then take it apart. it sounds like the slider is getting stuck internally. ;) |
| ID: 6607 | Date: 10/12/08 | Member: Blick | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: safe psi Question: hi there wizard!!! my in-car boost has been disconected 4 a while now, just about2 plumb it back in and was wonderin what sort of psi i could safely go up2 on these mods and sort of bhp i could b lookin at?? i need more power! : ) thanks. cup mod, frontmount intercooler, t25, r19 16v uprated fuel pump, E.P motorsport group a carb, ktr ignition leads, ngk race plugs, scorpion s/system, k&n induction kit, 10 row oil cooler, uprated clutch, lightened and balanced flywheel. Answer: start at 15psi, plumb a wideband sensor in and slowly turn the boost up.... |
| ID: 6608 | Date: 11/12/08 | Member: matty j | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Petrol reader take 2 Question: Me again sorry how do I take out the fuel sender?? Never done it before so wouldn't know where to start Answer: fold the back seats forward. remove the black plastic cover over the access hole. label the pipes- so u remember which goes where, then disconnect the pipes and the electrical connection. then with a hammer and screwdriver, gently undo the plastic ring that holds the sender in place. remove the sender. take it apart. clean it. check to see if the slider mech works. |