| ID: 6460 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: perk fan Question: my perk fan is staying on all time so i pulled the fuse out but would like to keep it any ideas whats up with it Answer: Check the sensors (one on the inlet manifold throat, and one on the turbo heatshield) connectors/wires aren't 'shorted' together. Also check the relay hasn't seized on in the 'energise' position. Btw, it is normal for the fan to stay on for a (good) while once you've removed the keys from the ignition, but I assume you knew that already, and that there is a problem. |
| ID: 6461 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil breather pipes Question: right first off hope u had a good xmas!!! this is the first winter ive drove the 5 turbo in and new this would start happening my luck, right went down to the shop everything was goin great until i got to roundabout pulled away the car was spluttering missing and then just completley died, parked up opened the bonnet and there is oil everywhere looks like its come from the dipstick area, got it home checked the breather system and its all blocked up with mayo, any help ont his would be much appreciated wiz Answer: Maybe 2 problems in 1 this one. The dipstick will be forced out if your breather system gets blocked, so thats probably why your engine got covered in oil. mayo in the breather/oil means water's in there, so either its been stood for a long time or you've got a problem. clean the breathers out and take it for a run. if all isn't well and the moisture (mayo) persists then check for coolant loss and signs of gasket failure. |
| ID: 6462 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smokey car Question: Hi Wiz, Got a problem with smoke coming out of the exhaust...full story here : http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.asp?ShowType=1&SortColumn=1&SortOrder=2&TimePeriod=5&BoardID=2&TopicID=57324 Tried asking a few peoples advice 1st before bothering you,but nothing conclusive as such yet. Cheers Answer: I'd say you've answered your own question  It'll be the turbo, I'm sure.oil seeping though the exhaust elbow joints is a giveaway. often only the turbine side will leak oil, meaning a smokey exhaust when hot, while the boost pipes stay clean. |
| ID: 6463 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boot door Question: is there anywhere that sells a spurious boot door for the r5 ?most places ive tried only sell skins, but i need a complete door.or where would you recomend me to get one from?i dont want second hand but they are 480 euro plus 21 % vat from renault dealers here in southern ireland. surely they can be got cheaper than that in the uk? Answer: you will have get 2nd hand i think.  im not sure about cheaper over here. why not phone a main dealers in liverpool/birmingham/london and give them the part number and see what they could get it for. |
| ID: 6464 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rad Question: hi iam looking for some place that build costom rads Answer: AH Fabrications, Bailey, Forge, Pace, Pro-Alloy, local Yellow Pages, Google... |
| ID: 6465 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gearbox input shaft support bearing Question: Does the 5 Gtt have a gearbox input shaft support bearing (in the flywheel end of the crankshaft)? The Haynes Manual refers to one but my engine appears not to be fitted with any, although it’s just been re-built and possibly removed when the crank was re-ground! Thanks Tom Answer: Well, the gearbox input shaft is in the gearbox, not connected to the crankshaft, so I'm a bit unsure of what your asking. The gearbox has bearings on its input shaft sure enough, but I think your talking about thrust bearings on the crankshaft. Yes, the GT has those in the form of semi-circular thrust washers that live either side of the center crank journal - not at the flywheel end like some engines. You'll have issues if they're not installed 
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| ID: 6466 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: missing Question: alright wiz ok here we go in high gears foot flat down my car seems to miss harshly at around 4000rpm and up from there. propper hickup. if i half throttle up to the same speeds totaly smooth. running 15 psi boost 130 jet and ally intercooler and all that jaz any idea's cheers Dan Answer: It's ignition related. Try some new plugs, failing that check the condition of the dizzy, cap and then the TDC lead. Or, it could be the cack renault wiring to the AEI module. |
| ID: 6467 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gearbox input shaft bearing - part 2 Question: Sorry for the confusion Wiz, If you remove, the clutch cover & driven plate look at the flywheel where it’s bolted to the end of the crankshaft. The crank has a recessed hole in the centre, visible inside the ring of flywheel retaining bolts. On some engines the gearbox input shaft (attached to gearbox) passes through the clutch driven plate, flywheel then rests in a small bearing in the end of the crank. This offers additional support at the nose of the input shaft at its unsupported end. The Haynes manual mentions this bearing under – Clutch Assembly (7 centralising the clutch) chapter 5.2. I don’t’ remember any bearing when I stripped the engine for re-building although the block/crank was done by others. Tom Answer: I see what your getting at In the section of manual you refer to it says that the driven plate needs to be centeral so that the splined shaft will pass through the plate. The shaft doesn't actually contact anything on the other side, its meerly saying that the shaft needs to pass through the plate in order to successfully refit the gearbox. I know the recess you talk of in the end of the crank, and rest assured that no bearing, or anything else, lives there
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| ID: 6468 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: header Question: hi.i bought a header tank which was said to be for turbo but when it arrived it looks the same barring there is only one outlet on the bottom were as old one as 2,have they sent the wrong one out? thanks paul Answer: Sounds like it, unless they expect you to 'T' both the water pipes onto the 1 outlet? Sounds shady. I'd send it back... |
| ID: 6469 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clio Shockers Question: Hi Can you help can i fit renault 5 turbo coilovers to my clio rsi i have the 5 turbo motor fitted but carnt find a cheep set of coilovers (on a budget) but can get hold of a set of 5 turbo ones cheap. Answer: how cheap is cheap? |
| ID: 6470 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: air/fuel Question: hello,can an air/fuel ratio gauge be fitted directly to my r5 Answer: yes, but i thought you needed a lambda sensor boss welded into the turbo cross pipe. |
| ID: 6472 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dash Lights Question: Hello there hope you have a a good xmas and new year! Right on my 5 the dash lghts are on (the water temp warning light, batterey light, oil warning light and the electronic dipstick light). but when the car gets warm they all go off, why is that? and is there anything that i could do to stop it? Thanks againg & Happy new year Kris Answer: id probably be inclined to take the wiring off the oil pressure sensor and clean them up, and make sure they aint snapped etc etc. if you accidentally swap the sensor wires the wrong way round the lights you mentioned stay on and get lighter/darker when you rev the car (i cant remember which way round it is)- so i think it maybe linked to this. |
| ID: 6474 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuelling Question: hi wiz,happy new year to you...... i have changed my standard carb top to a gt tuning alloy one and now have the unpleasant smell of petrol comming into the car..its driving me nuts..i have put a new o ring on and checked and clamped all the pipes but it still smell.....any ideas old boy Answer: i think you may need a thicker O ring. use a VW/audi thermostat O ring, these are alot thicker and work a treat!
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| ID: 6475 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wont turn over Question: i have just changed the battery it was a bit reluctant to start but cranked over left to warm up took for run out worked ok. parked up left for about 20 minutes and now wont start battery is brand new and wont go on a jump start Answer: are you sure your starter motor isnt stuck? are the dash lights on?- do they dim when you try to start the car? |
| ID: 6476 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wanted Question: does any 1 know where i could get the rubber bushing that goes on to the sub frame under the rad i have the piece that bolts on to the gearbox i got it new off renault but i cant get the piece that fits the sub frame?? Answer: It's an integral part of the sub-frame. You'll need a complete new sub-frame, or cut n' shut one off an old frame. |
| ID: 6477 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wot would this do Question: hi wiz would the 1.7 r5 box fitt a 5tt and is the ratios the same? and does it have electronic speedo is it worth puttin on Answer: It would, but I think the ratios are different - Have a look through the boards as all the different JB ratio specs are listed on there. It has a cable driven speedo, so you'll either have to convert your speedo clock, or drive without it working. |
| ID: 6478 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: vaccum hoses Question: hi wiz ive had my engine in peices for some time now and i cant figure out were some vacuum hoses go 1)hose coming out of the ecu unit 2)hoses on the drivers side of the carb were that hose goes and which hoses go on that double 't' peice on that same hose 3)were is the best place to 't' off for the dump valve vaccum feed thanks alot help much appreciated Answer: 1) Goes from the aei/ecu to the port on the inlet manifold throat (underneath where the carb sits). 2) 1 hose goes to carb elbow, 1 hose goes to the accelerator pump circuit on the carb, 1 hose goes to the bulkhead 'L' shape connector for the dash boost gauge, and the last hose goes to the fuel pressure regulator (boost reference pipe). 3) In that pipe that runs from the aei to inlet manifold. |
| ID: 6479 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Your comments on tdc Sensor Question: You previously wrote to another question ""beware of the TDC wire-swap mod, it'll make the engine want to detonate easier as you wind the boost up, expecially if your head's ever been skimmed""..... I dont really understand the statement... Is this not the point of the mod to give 4deg advance thus making it easier to detonate?? Also what are you saying the advantages and disadvantages are?? Answer: I thought it made reasonable sence. I'll try again to explain it. ""Beware of the TDC wire-swap mod"" - means that you should beware of it. Nothing more. It will eat into the engine's detonation threshold and make it want to detonate earlier than it would do otherwise, given the same boost, compression, etc. By saying beware I'm not saying it can't be used to good effect, or that it's a bad thing to do. I'm saying that someone without good tuning experience (read 'alot of people who are likely to read these articles') should *beware* if it. For example - I happen to know that a fairly standard GT with good intercooling, suitably sized turbo, good afr and standard igntion tends to start knocking at around 25psi of boost (manifold). Winding 4degrees of advance on via the wire-swap mod means that it'll most likely want to knock several psi earlier. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to see that if an owner was already running 25psi of boost and decided to wind on 4 degrees of ignition because someone on the internet said it would be fine then things are going to go bang. Regarding head skimming, I guess I don't need to explain to you that increasing the compression ratio also eats into the detonation threshold and so again will cause the motor to detonate earlier than it would without. Combine this with the wire swap mod and you have a recipe for disaster. As before, thats not to say that you should not do this, but that you should *beware* of it, especially if you have no means of listening for or monitoring detonation. As for dis-advantages, see above. Advantages, assuming no knock, is generally an increase in torque. |
| ID: 6480 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starting Question: ive just replaced the satring motorand distributor cap ,and cleaned the plugs ,but the car still wont start.as soon as i take the carb top off and spray easy start into it it fires up sraight away could you please give my an info to sort this out thanks Answer: Are you getting any fuel squirting into the venturi when you blip the throttle? (you'll obviously need to take the carb plenum off to confirm). If not, start tracing back the fuel supply path, thus: needle valve not blocked, fpr working ok, fuel pump not seized up, pump wiring ok and making good contact, fuel pump relay/module working, tdc sensor connector good, tdc sensor wiring ok. |
| ID: 6481 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear windscreen wiper Question: Hi Wiz My rear windscreen wiper has sudenly stopped working! Ive checked all the fuses and they seem to be mint! Is there a relay or anything else that would couse it to f++k up? Cheers Mark Answer: not sure about the relay, are you sure the unit itself hasnt packed up? |
| ID: 6484 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: idle valve Question: ive cleaned carb out , and the car is know starting fine,the only problem is now that the idle valve is broke ,the 1 that runs a pipe to the perc fan ,could this be causing my car to idle up and down thanks ryan Answer: the idle control valve doesnt control the idle on the gtt, it lets the perc fan blow air into the boost hoses. you need to clean out the big brass screw (idle jet) on the drivers side of the carb. then if that doesnt work, unscrew the mixture screw a couple of turns and see if the car stops hunting (idling up and down)- the revs may be alittle high then , so just adjust them with the idle control screw. |
| ID: 6485 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help My Dieing Gtt Question: Hi i am very new, this is my first question to the wizard. Hi wizard. right my gtt is acting well abnormal. i start the car need to give it a bit of a rev to get it going but is ok, when the car has been running for a while sitting or driving it will start to splatter and stutter like its got no petrol and die. i have put a new carb top on same problem also put new uprated bosh fuel pump on same problem changed the TDC sensor same problem, i am at my witts end as i am unable to drive it anywhere because i dont want it cutting out on me. after it cuts out i will leave it for 10 to 20 mins sometimes will it restart again, but defonatly will after some hours. please help me with this.!! many thanks kind regards Answer: do you have all the water connections to the manifold and the carb base, that heat up the inlet manifold and carb? without this heating effect the fuel doesnt vapourise properly and will cause the car to start misfiring, wet the plugs and conk out. it takes about 10-20mins for the warmth of the exhaust manifold to warm up the inlet manifold enough to cause fuel to vapourise properly??? i would check that first.
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| ID: 6486 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: How hard! Question: How much work would b involved in changing a campuse to a gtt engine wise Answer: loads of work! depends on how mechanically minded you are. i'd speak to colin 'the master' about this. he has done this before.
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| ID: 6487 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Did he ?? Question: http://www.rtoc.org/wizard/question.asp?id=6454 Answer: can i do that? yes i can? |
| ID: 6488 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear suspension Question: my car is to low at the rear so would like to raise it up a little whats the best way in doing so Answer: bit like this but in reverse... http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=15 |
| ID: 6489 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help My Dieing Gtt Prt2 Question: Hi again wizard! Continuation from question ID: 6485 Yes the pipes at the back of the carb i have them! i thought it might have somthing to do with the carb so i took it off cleaned it cleared all jets, but i noticed it didnt have choke flap so i put another top of the carb on with a choke flap and still didnt make a difference, i got the carb tuned TWICE, still running like a dog a bit! i spoke to a mechanic said it wouldnt make a difference with the choke flap missing so o put my old one back on! I brought the car with running almost perfect with just a broken accelarater cable, put a new one on boosted it and blew head gasket, rebult it all then i started getting all this stupid niggly things happening, the first thing was it stopped selecting gear then i replaced the clutch cable was ok then when accelerate no acceleration changed cable was ok then i put full sfs silacone hosseing on then got this mad whiring noises phoned Ktec they said it was breathers found out the breathers need restrictors mate gave me one but still same noise but less need another one. so then during summer i was driving around then it cut out like i ran out of petrol, added petrol got them too check carb everything was ok. driving again and it cut out dead again. brought uprated bosh fuel pump and new fuel filter thought it would be ok, driving around and it cut out again mate thought it could be tdc sensor. so i have put his spare tdc sensor he had on which is working but it didnt cure the problem its had new spark plugs everything, during this time us messing around the funny thing is i have no choke cable so when starting gtt to get warm need a little choke have to push it on manuallly snapped the little springing thing on carb put is ok when running. but the car is still cutting out and takes about 10 min to 24 hours to restart. its not consistant either it could run for an hour then cut out or it could run for 2 mins and cut out or it could run for 3 to 4 hours then cut out. or not cut out at all. it allways has quarter to half tank petrol. i have beffled loads of people with this car and its starting to take its stress toll. sadly its my first gtt and begging to think it will be my last. although i have had fun. please give your evaluation Dr Wizz many many thanks kind regards. Answer: ok, without sounding like i passing the buck, i would suggest you contact your area rep to come over and have a look. they should know what the hell they are looking at. cos if it worked before you messed with it then it SOMETHING YOU HAVE DONE to the car. |
| ID: 6490 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: radiator hose Question: Hello wizard ive put togher my first r5 and noticed that when i start the car after less than two minutes the top radiator hose collapses on its self any ideas. Answer: have you managed to kink the bottom radiator hose as it squeezes past the alternator? - did you put the spring inside the pipe, to stop it squashing? have you fitted a new thermostat? |
| ID: 6491 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: plugs Question: hi wizard are these sparkplugs( B8 EVX) the right one for my turbo cheers ste and i sorted the water pump thankyou for the info you gave me Answer: Yep, they'll be alright. |
| ID: 6492 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: thermostat Question: hi wiz i have finaaly got round to putting an 83 degree thermostat in my car,but it is now running hotter than before the temp gauge is now on the third bar whereas b4 it would go no higher than half way....bled the system and its still the same.any ideas as to why cheers chap Answer: Perhaps the thermostat that was in there previously was a low temperature item? You made sure there's no air-locks? |
| ID: 6493 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine running poor Question: just bought the car and ive changed the head gasket, ht leads, spark plugs and dizzy cap, but the engine will not idle anything under 1500rpm and it will rev up ok but misfires when i hold the revs at any range, when i first start the car it misfires when i rev it but it stops when the car is warm, ive checked the idle valve and thats clean, ive fitted a new mixture screw but it does'nt seem to change anything when i screw it in or out, do you think the problems carb related or is it the ignition system? it would be much appriciated if you could help? Answer: Did you reset the valve clearances correctly? HT leads fully on? Sparkplugs not fouled up? Plug gaps correct? Carb idle jet clean? |