| ID: 6394 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump Valve - Dini/GTT Question: Wiz the car is now running sweet, thanks! Question is which pipe should I tap into for the dump valve bearing in mind the actuator operates off the T3 body? Should I tap into that Act pipe or the pipe from the inlet manifold to the AEI unit? thanx Answer: aei line 
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| ID: 6395 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Still running rough Question: Wiz, The background... My r5 has been running like a dog for some time now, hesitant off boost with some misfiring. Having spent months investigating I tried some new plugs and the general running of her is better, although not perfect. I also stripped the carb down and rebuilt with a new gasket set. The problem... When idling at around 1000rpm if I blip the throttle the revs momentarily die before they increase. Sometimes when doing this the engine actually backfires!! This is an intermittent problem that seems worse when the engine is cold. Also the rod that controls the carb pump has a thread and nut on the end, does that nut need to be set to any particular position. Many thanks in advance, Chris Answer: when you blip the throttle, a squirt of fuel should go down the venturi. does the rod attached to the pump actually make the accelerator pump move? should be like a mini see saw affair in the centre of the 4 bolts on the drivers side of the carb? thats is the only reason the carb dies momentarily when you blip the throttle. |
| ID: 6396 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ep motorsport Question: hi wiz i was going to take my r5 to ep motorsport but before i did i was wondering if you now any where were i could find feed back from people that have been there already to see how could they are e.g other members or do you now how could they are cheers Answer: yeah, ask anyone from the stoke on trent area. dont be shy, they all love him there 
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| ID: 6397 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine wont start Question: i recently put my new r5 engine into car after bottom end seized on old one, now engine wont start the starter is new but the car just wont kick over. Theres flames popping out of lobster if this is any help answering my question Answer: you have the timing wrong, or the cam 180° out. |
| ID: 6398 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fog + no plate lights Question: hi my front fogs have packed up the switch on dash is ok and so r the bulbs but doesnt seem to be any powerat the connection check fuse thats ok wat could it b? rear no plate lights come on ok with lights etc with the ignition of then when i turn ignition on the go off and the heated rear sceen light on clocks keeps coming on with the lights what could it b? Answer: maybe time to get an auto electrician out. sounds like some funked up earths or crossed wires 
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| ID: 6399 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wont turn over Question: car wont turn over, put new battery on it. its a rebuilt engine and i have had it running a couple of months ago. went to start it this weekend. the starter motor want to turn over the engine but it wont, last time i started it tho i had to use a battery booster. i know the engine aint seized cause it turns over buy the crank pulley bolt. and it has oil in?? any ideas wiz as my patience is running thin wit the car, and no i crnt bump start it cause n driveshafts in t box regards tom Answer: the car needs careful training to turn over when you want it to. you need to use a reward scheme, whereby when it does whats it told to you then reward it. only problem with getting a car to turn over is potential body work damage... id suggest that your starter motor has rusted and/or seized and you need a new one. |
| ID: 6400 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Adjusting carb springs pt2 Question: As requested, more info. The venturi is standard, the main is 1.3mm the AC is 1.25mm and the 2nd stage is 1.2mm. Alt' best Ol' Caaaaanty Answer: you muppet!- what is your first stage enricher? -the removable one? then ill give u my verdict
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| ID: 6401 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Broken spring Pt 6785 Question: I don't think I have ever changed my first stage enrichement! Where is that? Oh my, I really am a mupet. With a nose like this, thanks and I hope this helps you help me, Gonzo! LOL Answer: ah, the 1st stage is the removable jet thats in the triangular knobly bit you remove from the carb. its about 1mm in standard form. opening this slightly and/or releiving the 2nd stage spring slightly might help the initial lean patch
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| ID: 6402 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: milage (km) dial - clock Question: Hi wizz ! Do you have any ideea where can i get the vectorized scan (*.cdr file) of the milage clock (dial) . I need the scan so i can print it to a glass and make my own dial ! Thank you a lot ! Answer: i have no idea! - maybe Ian S from Ilford is the person to ask about this. im sure he would know summat like that. |
| ID: 6403 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: which jets Question: just blew my t2 turbo and bought a t25 from turbo developments. they said i would need to put larger jets in the carb. i have a gt tuning in car boost kit and this comes with larger jets apparently. i didn't fit the kit so don't know! had it on a rolling road recently and the guy was not sure the bigger jets were in the carb. what jets would you recommend?it's a standard carb Answer: what boost do you wanna run? |
| ID: 6404 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine still wont start Question: hello wizard my car is in garage now the mechanic has tried every thing to start the car same problem as before that it just wont fire up. the engine turns on the starter but still nowt i was thinking that it could be an electrical problem ie. timing sensor or the wiring to the alternator any ideas. Answer: is the fuel pump firing? is there any spark at all to the distributor? the timing sensor is available from gsf, and will sort alot of problems out due to the aei not picking up the signal and not sending a spark out! |
| ID: 6405 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: car cuts out when i stop suddenly Question: sorted master wizard the car runs sweet as a nut cheers Answer: coooooool |
| ID: 6406 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: thanks wiz Question: thanks for your help wiz, in the end i found out the head i had was a 5gtt head (6384). the other question i ask was i was loosing coolant it was what you said it was a liner seal(6252). thanks for your help im sure i'll have some more questions for you in the future Answer: no probs, glad to be of help. |
| ID: 6407 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Brake Nipples Question: Can you tell me the diameter of the bleed nipple thread ,as I would like to change then too easy bleed nipples. Thanks Jez Answer: i honestly dont have a scooobie doo! maybe you could ask renault for the size, or take one to a fastning company and they should be able to tell you the thread size. |
| ID: 6408 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil cooler Question: G'day oh knowlegable one! I've fitted an aftermarket 13-row oil cooler to my GT Turbo and have driven the car a few times. After going for a recent drive, i noticed that the oil cooler is stone cold, even though the radiator is as hot as the sun. I have a low temp fan switch and the fan comes on all the time to cool the radiator. So i would assume that the oil cooler would also be hot or even warm. I don't have a thermostat in the oil cooler line, but i don't think this would cause the cooler to stay cold, the oil passing through it would still be warm. Do you have any idea what the porblem is? Cheers. Tambo Answer: sorry about the late reply- ive been avoiding answering this one, cos it looked hard! but here we go.... how have you fitted the oil cooler? have you kept the original oil cooler as well? if you dont have a thermostat on the oil cooler line, then your oil will not be reaching its operating temperature, and may cause engine damage. the standard system uses the water temp to heat up and maintain the oil temp you see
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| ID: 6409 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: which jet? Question: Hi mate were can i get a 130 main jet,and just buy putting this in my standard 5 can i turn up boost,iv started using car on track and need more power,what steps should i take,cheers al Answer: use a 1.3mm drill bit on you main jet (after you've removed it from the carb!) or buy it from a tuner. |
| ID: 6410 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PHASE 1 FUEL PUMP Question: Hi my question is why do certain companies sell the 'uprated fuel pump' when all it really is , is a phase 1 item . These are around 80 inc vat from bosch dealers.Ive seen companys selling these for around 150.ouch! Answer: why did gt tuning sell bosch dump valves for £80 when you can buy them from ford for £7? - cos people are gullible, and tuners have to make a living.
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| ID: 6411 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starting Question: hi wiz, i have bin searching through the starting section for days. right my problem is my car wont start! i have got spark and i have got fuel! it cranks over fine just will not fire! it will start if i get towed down the road to give it a bumo start then it stuters and u have to hold the revs on abit if not it dies! any ideas? help needed ASAP cheers wiz Answer: sounds like your carb may need cleaning out, or you got a bad airleak somewhere? |
| ID: 6412 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: need more power,going on track Question: hi wiz,was at knock hill at weekend and was eatern alive by every thing on trac,my car is standard and very healthy,iv raced bikes for years so i dont stick around,what steps should i take for good upgrades to gain more power, Answer: what do you want to use the car primarily for? a decent exhaust is necessary, but you must be careful with noise limits on tracks... a cam could also be done, but this may affect around town driving if you go too lairy. a larger turbo can give good performance gains when coupled with the correct fuelling. go to big and lag will not be good for track use. your best bet is to turn the boost up to 14psi do the timing sensor lead swap, and then start saving for more mods.
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| ID: 6413 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starting part 2 Question: hi i 4got to mention that the car only stuters for a few seconds then after awhile it runs like new! i cant find any air leaks and the carb is clean as a wistle! could it be something to do with the ignition modual? Answer: unlikely, as it just wouldnt work. sounds more carb related to me.
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| ID: 6414 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: WHICH JETS 2 Question: i'm running 17 psi at mo without adjusting anything. seems ok so keep as it is. cheers anyway wiz Answer: yeah, keep it as it is, if its got the gt tuning setup on it. |
| ID: 6415 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear windows Question: Hi can i replace the rear windows on my e reg gtturbo with fixed one from a campus ? cheers james Answer: yes. |
| ID: 6416 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear beam Question: Allright wiz, can I remove the arms from the rear beam complete with the torsion bars or do I have to remove the bars first? the beam is off the car needing to strip it though for powdercoating. Also any ideas on the price of the rear beam bushes? cheers Answer: best remove the bars first. call renault and ask about the rear bushes....
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| ID: 6417 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: leak Question: hi i just want to ask u i have slight drip coming from under the water pump and if i was to replace the 1 gasket will i get any problems with my cooling system as i had gt turbo 8 years ago and had problems with the head gasket and cooling system so is just possable to replace and re-seal the 1 gasket without draining my hole cooling system cheers steve Answer: it might be the waterpump bearing seal is failing. there is a hole behind the black pulley wheel, that lets water out of it, when its starting to fail. - this can then drip downwards and seems like the seal has gone. you're better off replacing the waterpump and gasket. you will have to bleed the system whatever you do.- this will always involve opening the bleed nipples on the coolant pipes, clamping the small coolant return hose to the expansion bottle, and blowing into the expansion bottle until water comes out of the the open nipples. |
| ID: 6418 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starter wiring. Question: Hi wiz, Just finished off fitting my first head gasket and was relieved when it all went back on ok. But gone to crank the car over and nothin, not even a click from the starter. All ignition lights are on, headlights, heaters etc all work but no starter. Then I notice sparking coming from the alternater and the sheathing on the black wire has melted. when i put the negative on the battery it was sparkin like hell. What have I done? is it dead, please help as I have spent 2 full days and loadsa cut knuckles on this one!! Ps it started fine before.Thanks, Mitch. Answer: sounds like you've put the alt wires on the wrong way or the starter motor wiring is earthing on summat. what wiring did you fiddle with? |
| ID: 6419 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water pump Question: hi thankyou wizard i will have a look and i will buy a water pump and gasket anyway just in case i will keep you informed of what i do cheers ste Answer: you know its the best thing todo
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| ID: 6420 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air corrector Question: hiya Wiz, what size air corrector to run with a 120 main jet and 15psi? cheers. Answer: on a standard carb? a 125 AC. |
| ID: 6421 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cutting out/wont stay on Question: Hi guys Answer: |
| ID: 6422 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: HUNTING IDLE Question: hi mr wizard. my engine has always had a pretty uneven idle,its fine under load but just seems to idle between 900 to 1100 rpm? ive changed carb and fitted a new gasket set to it also rejetted it 135 and 90 ac and fitted new mixture screw and set it up. changed the timing sensor to a 6 degree advanced.new plugs leads and cap etc.im about to change the manifold gasket next . any ideas if its not that? Answer: when you fitted the mixture screw did it have a rubber O ring on it? try spraying round the carb area with carb cleaner/ brake cleaner. if there is a leak at idle, the revs will rise, and you can pin point where it is using this method however, if this dont work, try unscrewing the mixture screw all the way, and then turning it in a few turns, so it's actually in some 'thread', then lower the idle speed with the idle speed adjust screw. you may just find you've adjusted it wrong. btw- do you have a standard venturi, if so id say a 90 AC will cause problems... |
| ID: 6423 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear De-Mist Question: Any ideas the rear de-mist is not working, I've checked what I thought was the correct fuse according to Haynes manual.In fact I've checked all the fuses and all are o.k! And I've tested and there's no power going to the connectors on the window. Could it be the switch on the dash?Is this a common problem? Is there a relay? Cheers Jez. Answer: Don't recall the rear de-mist function working via a relay, so that's one less thing to eliminate! Might be worth buzzing out the switch (continuity test), but it's rare that they fail like that. When you pull the fuse, are you getting 12v on one of the terminals? (you may have to flick the dash switch to see a reading) |