| ID: 6300 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flutter... Question: I am in debate of this so called ''flutter valve noise'' i am running near on standard boost, piston d-valve, recon turbo, just a few silocon hoses and standard airbox with k and n element, the flutter noise may sound the bollox but really what is the most efficient setup on standard boost engines Answer: From now on the Wizards WILL NOT be answering any more questions regarding 'flutter valve noise', 'compressor surge', 'wastegate chatter', or 'I think bob the cunting pigeon is in my engine bay!'. |
| ID: 6301 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling Temp Up3 Question: Checked those mate, no leaks and the stat is fine, any other ideas? Answer: Rad' partially blocked? |
| ID: 6302 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling Temp Up4 Question: Found the prob, my AEI unit is fryed causing det, up goes those temps, Bugger. Answer: Even with detonation, it shouldn't really cause the water temp' to go up as drastic as you've made out. And if the det' was that bad, I'm fairly sure you'd have popped a gasket/cracked a piston by now. |
| ID: 6303 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wizard Question: Bye bye wizard, thanks for all the help and excellent responses to caaaaaant chavs that make me do wee wees in my nappy. Rock on. Keep it real. Oh and if you were expecting a question.... Why is it you never EVER see birds fall from the sky dead? Ahhhhhhhhh... Answer: its a matter of statistics. think about it. |
| ID: 6304 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Spark! Question: Wiz, Driving my 5 after a longtime standing and i return home after an enjoyable drive. leave the car on the drive for 5 minutes then try and start her up again and.... nothing. i have checked the king lead and there is no spark... there isnt even the sound of the fuel pump kicking in. any ideas? timing sensor(.... again!)? thanks Answer: Mr Brisland, always a pleasure. No dodgy immobiliser in place I take it? If not, I think you may well be right in suspecting the tdc sensor/cable/connection at aei, etc. Also make sure you're getting a good 12v & ground at the aei, and that the overboost wires aren't accidentally shorting out. Might be worth checking/eliminating the overboost relay (next to the aei) as well. |
| ID: 6305 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Brakes not working proplery : ( Question: Hi, My 5 has developed a problem with brakes- They don't work unless pumped hard and then they lose presure. The car has been sat for a while, where / how do I start to diagnose this problem? Thanks You Fonzy Answer: see whether its the servo first. with the car off, pump the pedal until it goes hard. it should stay hard. then start the car. the pedal should drop abit. if it does then its ok. just try it first and get back to me. |
| ID: 6306 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil breeder chamber and filter Question: oil leaking from crankcase breeder chamber and filter when car is running flat out on the motorway at 20 psi for a short period of time is this normal. do i need a oil catch tank system ,is this normal or have i damaged the oil rings cheers robbie Answer: well, if i had a crankcase breeder then id be a rich man, i'd have a whole farm of them now, and would have bred small crankcases and big crankcases, maybe even odd coloured ones too. thankfully i know more about breathers.  at 20psi its probably best to get an oil catch tank system sorted out. also make sure all your breather restrictors (is a 'breeder restrictor' a condom?) are present in the pipework. and th pipework is cleaned out. what mileage is your engine and has it ever been rebuilt? |
| ID: 6307 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo Question: Have no speedo working, replaced sensor removed all connections and soldered and wondering if you know where and which wire is my power supply to the speedometer and earth? Answer: Have you replaced the speedo head itself, and checked the copper track for continuity on the back of the clock panel? |
| ID: 6308 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Phase 2 gearbox Question: I blew a hole in side of my gearbox, and due to living in northern ireland, its pretty hard to find a suitable box, because of its rarity. I kno certain boxes will fit in renault and volvo form, also with the added hassle of needin the electrical ran speedo. Any ideas in easier found gearboxes, so i can get myself back on the road Answer: yeah.. with electrical speedo use the volvo 440/480 turbo box. newest type is the M59 i think. with cable speedo you can use loads of them. clio 16v, r19, r11, r9 other r5's. you could also try kangoo 1.9td boxes... hope this helps. |
| ID: 6309 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Battery not charging Question: Dear wizard, i recently bought a renault 5 with a charging problem. I can do about 30 miles before the battery runs dead and conks out. Ive replaced the alternator and made sure it is earthed. I have also tried 3 other batterys and this hasn't sorted the problem. Do you have any ideas what it could be? Cheers Answer: maybe you need a new engine wiring loom. for what its worth, you need to get an experienced autoelectrician on the case. it wouldn't cost as much as you might think. |
| ID: 6310 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: King Lead Question: When the engine is running and i touch the King Lead wire i can feel an electric type of shock along it...like it's leaking current..what would this suggest??? Answer: thats its leaking current. mybe you need a thicker insulated kinglead? |
| ID: 6311 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rusted brake pipes Question: My 5 failed it MOT for rusted brake pipes, so i decided to take it apon myself to change all the pipes, When it came to remove some of the pipes, where they meet the flexi hose, there was some sort of shaped sheet steel acting like a spacer with a hole in it, all of them were rusted and cannot be used again, do i need to worry about them, what are they and can i still get them from Renault? Answer: It's a bracket that holds the pipe to the chassis. |
| ID: 6312 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cam igntion timing Question: recently changed my cam and forgot which the ingtion timing worm drive is spose to go any got any idea the engine is timed up on the chain pully's does the mean my distruer should be facing number 1 Answer: read haynes manual. it gives diagrams in there. easier than me trying to waffle on. |
| ID: 6313 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering Rack Question: Hi, Can the steering rack on my 5 be adjusted? It has failed its MOT as it is loose on one side. If yes, how do I adjust it? Cheers Answer: loose?- is it the rose joint or the tie rod end? - im sure you cannot have just one side loose if the rack is fubar'd. |
| ID: 6314 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: renault 9 ph1 & ph2 front ends Question: i am currently looking for ways of converting the front end of my r9 ph2 into a ph1 with twin headlights . can you please tell me what sort of work would be involved ?? cheers Answer: A lot. |
| ID: 6315 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel Question: hi ive just put onother engine in my r5 and she wont run it wanted to start but wouldnt now the fuel pump doesnt run and therse no spark ive replaced the igniction module and the tdc sensor (both were 2nd hand tho) was told that it could be the fuel pump relay but dont know were abouts it is any ideas what it could be as its doing my head in hope u can help Answer: ok, the pump wont run, if the aei doesnt see any signal from the tdc sensor. however, as im the f***ing don, i will tell you the answer. you changed the aei, but did you check to see that it got 12+volts from the ign live when you turned the key? - no change the relay that sits next to the aei in the scuttle tray. this controls the power to the unit. sort that out first. |
| ID: 6316 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost kicks in and car tries to stop Question: Just had ktr group a cab fitted and set up was over fuelling with the 150 so changed back to 120 main jet only running 12 psi. Speedo's stopped working and when the boost kicks in the car fights to stop it seems to have the opposite effect, please help been off the road for weeks!!!!! Answer: speak to your area rep.... he should know what the problem is, if he comes over and has a look. |
| ID: 6317 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pace products Question: hello this might seem a bit odd, but ive looked around the club and cant seem to find a contact no. for pace products. as im looking to buy an alloy rad for my 5gt. can you help? thanks. spencer. Answer: Google + ""pace products contact"" = www.paceproducts.co.uk/php/contacts.php |
| ID: 6318 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cosworth intercooler? Question: I've got a sierra cosworth 4x4 intercooler to fit on my 5, is it worth the hassle??? I've had a look at the article on RTOC, do you know anyone who's done it? What sort of boost can you run with it?? Cheers mate. Answer: Depends what you consider as hassle? If cutting dirty great lumps out of your 5's face to mount it, then fannying around with new pipe runs, only to be met with potentially more turbo lag due to the new boost circuit length & the big possibility of carb freeze now the colder weather is comming, is not your idea of hassle, then go for it my son......with regards to the max boost, try the blue oval boys sites, they should have some info. You say in your profile you have a double cap unit already, personaly I'd stick with it, it should be more than up to the job. ***edited by sarcastic wizard*** 3 types of cosworth intercooler? - one 2wd sierra/saph, one 4x4 saph and one rs500?- which one have you got? rs500 requires much modding, 2wd and 4wd ones are much smaller, and dont need much.  depends if u've run out of enthusiasm, and ur missus is nagging you to come and play with ur 6 kids... |
| ID: 6319 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Group a carb Question: Alright mate sent my carb back to k-tec for them to have a look. They said I could run 12psi through a 'goup A' carb with a 150 main jet could you please let me know if this is correct as almost eveyone else is saying that its to big! Many thanks Jay! Answer: It is too big, but then who am I to argue against K-tec's knowledge. |
| ID: 6320 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Old carb Question: Me agian just read that you can brake the needle of the mixture screw inside the carb, I think this is what happened to my old carb, could you please let me know if it is scrap or could I get it out and repair the carb as the group A one is shite. Answer: For the sake of simply replacing the lower part of the carb, where the screw tip breaks off in, I wouldn't bother trying to extract it. |
| ID: 6321 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Master Cylinder - Brake Line Layout Question: Hi Wizard: Please can you advise of the layout for the brake lines to master cylinder? Many thanks. Answer: They go under the car....to the brake calipers, some to the front & some to the back! |
| ID: 6322 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Me again with the carb Question: Just to check then, your saying that if I changed the bottom part of my fecked carb it would run ok assuming the only problem is the broken mixtue screw. And I've been without a car for six weeks messin about with this goup A' one. Was told by a carb clinic that it'd gone porous. Never mentioned the mixture screw. Please wb. Many Thanks Jay! Answer: Yes, change the lower part of the carb, get yourself a new mixture screw & remember not to screw it all the way in tight. Wind the screw out 2ish turns & see how it runs. Best to get the mixture set properly when you can though. Not to sure about the porous bit, but if you keep on using that so called grp A one with a 150 main jet, you'll think your fuel tank has gone porous & your wallet to! |
| ID: 6323 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Master Cylinder Layout 2 Question: I realise they go under the car, some to the front some to the back! Can you advise which lines go to the 4 outlets on the Master Cylinder? I know they atre diagonal. Hoping for a bit more help than your last answer. Answer: OK, OK, so i suppose that wasn't the most helfull of answers! But it was a basically true. I've not looked at a 5's master cylinder for a while so bear with me. Try the link below, maybe that will give you what your looking for. http://www.rtoc.org/library/file.asp?id=35306 I suspect your next question will be "" my master cylinder hasnt got 3 ports on one side & 1 on the other, its got 2 each side, so what now"". Well either you or i could actually physically look at one. |
| ID: 6324 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: uprated fuel pumps Question: hi wiz,""uprated fuel pumps"" i am wanting to buy one but i was looking at a ktr pump which i had on my old 5 but i am told that they arnt uprated pumps at all there just the same as the phase 1 pumps? have you herd of this before? and have you any preferance on fuel pumps? also what BAR/PSI should an uprated pump be kicking out? cheers matey. Answer: just buy the bosch uprated pump. its 3 bar and 120 litres an hour. apparently it is the same as the ph1 gtt, but how many ph1 gtt's do you see nowadays to steal the pump off?- none? - go buy one. |
| ID: 6325 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb nightmare Question: Thanks for your advice, changed the bottom of the carb today and put my old carb back on car, with a new bottom and standard jets. But can't get it started now any ideas???? Answer: ***unfortunately you've got the sarcastic wizard today*** luckily i know your car IS going to be fixed tomrrow, as your very helpful area rep is going to have a look? Its the only way the to stop your constant questions on this tired old subject he'll probably check to see if its actually the carb at fault first, cos of course, YOU have definately checked everything else? personally im putting money on it being electrical or ignition.... let me know how it goes  i may already know before you though.- cos i is psychic innit!!!! |
| ID: 6327 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: perc fan Question: Hi wiz , i know youve heard this a billion times , but i want rid of my perc fan it doesnt work and hasnt for years, could you tell me how to go about this and what NOT to do, cheers wiz , sorry it aint more interesting..lol, matt. Answer: As can be said about most things relating to Bristol Pull the connector off the perc-fan and remove fan. Tape up said plug so that it doesn't short out on anything, and likewise for the 4 wires that go to the carb base sensor and heatshield sensor. Next time you pull the engine out, that'd be a good opportunity to remove the perc-fan wiring section completely. *********edited by not so sarcastic wizard************ Or you could get the perc fan working, as they do actually help with hot starting, Renault put them their for a reason afterall! |
| ID: 6328 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel Leak??? Question: Dini/GTT carb conversion - fitted the 3 way vac valve before the carb, started to prime, now fuels pissing out of the inlet manifold where the vacuum to boost gauge pipe attaches? Any ideas.... Answer: 3 way vac valve? - do you mean the fuel pressure regulator? - you need the r5 86 onwards manual to correctly plumb this up. sounds like you've funked the whole thing up to me.... unless some of your diaphragms on the carb have split. |
| ID: 6329 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running Like A Dog Question: Hey Wiz, how’s tricks!? Still having running problems with my 5. The problem started off with the car being hesitant off boost and generally nasty to drive. Thought it was the carb that was knackered so replace it but still the same problem persists. General running of the car now is real bad. When idling the pitch of the engine keeps changing (like misfiring). Also noticed a small amount of mayo on the underside of the oil filler cap. The engine was completely rebuilt less than 2K ago, I'm hoping this ain't head gasket probs. Someone on the boards thinks maybe the head gasket isn't sealed properly and is leaking very slightly into one of the bores, thus causing the car to run rough. What do you think? Don't want to unnecessarily strip it all down. Regards, Chris Answer: do a compression check. then replace the timing sensor + lead. |
| ID: 6330 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: aei Question: hello could a faulty aei unit cause my head gasket to blow,if so how would i test to see if this unit is working ok or not many thanks barry Answer: Bazzo, Not the aei internals theirself, but if the vacuum capsule was leaking sufficiently enough and/or the transducer within wasn't functioning correctly, then there wouldn't be any ignition retardation when boosting up/on full boost, hence detonation (more so with higher boost levels) due to the amount of advance present. If you pressurise the vacuum capsule (use a footpump or similar), and 'strobe' the flywheel (timing gun), you should be able to see the mark move (retard) as such when you start applying pressure to the vacuum capsule. If it retards sufficiently enough, cool; all is ok. If it doesn't, there's ya answer... |