| ID: 5934 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Re: engine rebuild Question: Hi, and thanks for fast feedback! -were can i buy ""everything"" i need to reach my goal of 200BHP, and what kind of turbo do u recommend? Possible to make a list of things needed? Thanks again! Answer: for 200bhp i recommend a t25/t25 or t28/t25 turbo with a piper 285 cam. what state is you engine in at the moment?- is it rattling? is it smoking?- if not, you can get away with leaving the bottom end alone take the head off, change the valve springs, change the cam by jacking the engine up at an angle- (read articles for info) then put the turbo on. make sure you rejet the carb!- is it normal venturi or enlarged venturi? 25mm or 27-28mm? (at 20psi you should see 200bhp)with a large bore turbo cross pipe and free flowing exhaust. |
| ID: 5935 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: manifold nut Question: Alrite, do you know the size of the exhaust manifold nuts, cos one of mine has gone walkie's and i've got a feeling if i go into B&Q and ask for a manifold nut off a renault 5 then all i'll get is blank look. Cheers Answer: i think they are m6 nuts.... just a standard size, need a 13mm spanner to undo jobby will do! |
| ID: 5936 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil cooler pipe Question: I was wondering wizz if u knew what size aeroquip oil reusable alloy fittings(there the red/blue ones) i would need to make up an oil feed pipe for my 5 GTT.They come in sizes -4jic 1/4" Answer: -6jic 3/8"" etc Mny thanks scott" |
| ID: 5943 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tyre fitting? Question: Hi, I am having trouble fitting some tyres and im hoping you can help. The tyres in question are used avon slicks size 7.5/21.5-15 which I believe are equivalent to 191.5/43-15, the wheels are phase2 clio wheels 185/15 which came with 195/45-15 tyres fitted to them. I had a tyre company try to fit one of the slicks and they spent 30 minutes trying to fit it with no joy, the fitter said they were very stiff and had tried everything he knew to get them on. I've no experience of having fitting slicks in the past so i can't say for sure why they wont go on, so if you have any ideas or suggestions that could help me it would be much appreciated. Ben. Answer: why not contact avon direct to see if you have the correct size tyres for the size of rim.... sounds like you may need to try a different tyre fitter to me, as there really shouldnt be any problem fitting them... |
| ID: 5944 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: late boost? Question: alrite wiz, got my engine set up to 14 psi at a reputable tuners the other day! and it ticks over sweet as a nut! am runnin a standard t2 at 14psi and normally it comes on full boost at 3000rpm, but since havin it tuned up, it somtimes doesnt come on full boost till bout 4000rpm? wat do ya reckon the problem is wiz?? cheers Answer: you have a hole in your boost circuit, or you have a leaking manifold gasket, or your actuator is fubar'd. |
| ID: 5945 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Spacers Question: Fitted 17 to car,struts are Avo's, tyre is catching on strut, I know that I need spacer but not shure of size? Poss 5 to 10mm , if this is the case will I have to get longer studs and where from? thanks as ever for your help. Answer: maybe you need smaller wheels or even lower profile tyres! |
| ID: 5946 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: aei problems Question: i have no spark from my aei unit i been told to check the wires that go into it for voltage which i will do tommorrow if there is no voltage were do the wires go to. thanx wizard Answer: they go back to the relay that sits next to the aei in the scuttle tray. change that. also suspect timing sensor may need replacing- it sits over the top of the gearbox, and plugs into the middle connection of the aei... |
| ID: 5948 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gearbox fubar Question: My manual gearbox in my R5 Monaco has suddenly decided it likes to randomly disengage from 2nd gear while driving. It'll slip out of gear and you'll hear the mesh start to grind as it pulls out. Once you've put it back in gear properly it'll then to stay in there but sometimes it'll just come out. It seems like i have to push the gear stick further back to get a solid engagement in 2nd. Any ideas? I was going to transplant my GT turbo engine into my Monaco and keep the Monaco gearbox. Answer: the gearbox is fecked. 2nd gear selector is boogered! |
| ID: 5949 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel regulator Question: hi wiz i have just got my sen a adjustabul fuel regulator wot psi can i run the regulator at with out woshing my bors but with the most fuel. Answer: you need to make sure its a boost controlled one. im sure the carb needs to see 4-5psi above boost pressure at all times. you will also need a fuel pressure gauge to adjust things properly. |
| ID: 5950 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: exhaust bracket Question: hi there wiz, i saw that the bracket at the top part of the exhaust , where the two springs are, is a little loose, i was told that i would have to drop my exhaust to fix the problem, is this true , and would i suffer problems if i was to leave it, there is only a small amount of rattle from this. thanks Answer: just tighten the nuts up on the car. |
| ID: 5951 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No power Question: I have a 1988 Gtt turbo and it has a stage 2 turbo twin webber carb specialy made with manafold stage 2 turbo only covered 500 miles pipper 285 cam shaft lightened and balanced bottom end gas flowed head ported and polished top half of engine,with bigger valves ect uprated fuel pump with braided lines In car boost gauge uprated head gasket and bolts and racing clutch etc. It has good power in first and second gear but then the turbo seems to spin up but not deliver the power any ideas what it mite be ? Answer: over or under fuelling. you need to get it on the rollers my friend. its an unknown carb you see.... |
| ID: 5952 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil from breather filter! Question: hello, you've probably been asked this one before, but what causes engine oil to be forced back threw the small breather filter( i have a k&n on the end of the breather pipe that normally plugs into the air filter telephone hose) on higher boost?? is there any reliable cure? Answer: yes i have, which is why should should always look at old wizard answers.... if you run 20psi boost then you will start throwing oil out of it quite regularly. you may have to fit a catch tank. 20psi causes alot of blow by of the rings... |
| ID: 5953 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Is the accelerator pump tap/arm supposed too rotate? Question: Hi, Sorry for another long one  Problem - Definatly carburettor, since fittting a 'new' (hardly used) 32DIS i've had hesistation problems when accelerating. To be more precise, its more noticeable in higher gears, put your foot down, as the boost begins too build, you feels a small splutter as the standard boost gauges passes about the 'U' in 'TURBO'. It clears up very quickly and then the power delivery is great. No problems hot/cold starting, fuel economy is fine. First off, ive changed the main jet, with a brand new 120 Renault one, and brought a brand new accel pump tap. I also checked none of the carb gasket are split or leaking. There are no leaks in the vaccum tubing, or at the carb base. I set the accel pump locknut/spring using a 5mm drill bit lodging open the throttle plate, all seems well. If you blip the throttle is responds very well with a rev and not a splutter. Originally I thought I had found the problem when I saw the accel tap didnt squirt down the 'gap' in the throttle opening, instead it was squirting onto the centre of the plate/cam, and dripping down the sides, anyway I have recitfied this by rotating the arm so that is squirts straight down into the manifold as you open the throttle. This has not cured the problem. My knowledge of the enrichment stages etc on the passenger side of the carb is very limited...so I havnt fiddled. Previous owner of the carb said it ran perfect on his car... A friend on RTOC insists that the accel tap does not rotate on its body, as this could be the problem, however both the old and new do the same thing...(although stiff). Am I just breaking them or do they rotate to allow for adjustment? Im stumped and cant think what else could be wrong. Im not flapping because its not an unbearable problem, but i'd like to get it right so I dont cause any damage in the long term. Whats more, being a blithering prostitute of a fool i've sold on the original carb that was decent, so im stuck with this (expensive), duff carb. Cheers in advance  Answer: its not supposed to move. make sure you have the seal in place where it slots into the carb body. its also supposed to squirt at the side, so the stream bounces off the wall, and disperses more easily!!! large globs of fuel will cause the car stutter. also check your plugs etc etc are ok. stuutering as it comes on boost does sound like one of the enricher jets is too large and wetting the plugs slightly. you will have to take it apart and check all jet sizes with drill bit set. also best to thoroughly clean the carb! |
| ID: 5954 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: my wipers have stpped working?? oh why oh why? Question: The battery died and i fitted a new battery since then the wipers have not worked, i have a 10amp fuse in the wiper slot and havent changed but they have worked. Any ides? Answer: check the wiper relay, check the wiper fuse. then connect a battery to the wiper motor, to see if it works. |
| ID: 5955 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No horn Question: Hi i need to fit a horn to pass the mot i have the original horn but i cant seem to get it working, how would i go about wiring it up? cheers Answer: original horns never seem to work too well. best off bodging one, by running a feed from the horn switch in the car to a horn in the scuttle tray area, then to earth. |
| ID: 5956 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost guage Question: hi wiz.because of charge cooler set up there is no were for my boost guage to pipe in to cos there no lobster.i have piped it to the port on the passenger side of the car on the carb and the boost guage works except on tickover it is in the minus figure is this norm cheers paul Answer: most people take their boost gauge reading off the aei line. which also goes to the dump valve- if you have one fitted. this does read minus figures which tells you alot of interesting stuff. like if you have any leaks/ problems, or that you are running economically- ie off boost! |
| ID: 5957 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke??? Question: hi mate i noticed that i have some play in my turbo, not good!!!. but it doesnt really smoke or hold back when it kicks in, but when i turn my boost up and drive for a while, i seem to only get smoke when i stop, its a white fog smoke, this has happened twice, on the same night, seens then, only a small amount of smoke has happened?? could this be a result of my recent water change and too much water in the system, or maybe an air lock??? or any ideas what it could be???? i have 1yrs warrenty with turbo technics, should i get them to check it??? Answer: are you sure your head gasket isnt about to pop? which way does your turbo shaft wobble? |
| ID: 5958 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke 2 Question: in reply to my last question, firstly it wobbles in and out. and i checked under my rocker cover and the oil is black as black, no cream signs, same as in the header tank. but again there is no leaks from the turbo or any smoke under the bonnet. Answer: if it wobbles in and out the turbo is bolloxed. |
| ID: 5959 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: steering column Question: hi wiz ..i.m getting a clicking/knocking noise when i steer left and right ,while the car has stopped ...their is no play in the steering column(left/right) apart from i can pull the steering wheel up and push it back down into the column so it sits flush against the plastic cowling (steering shroud)...1st is the u,j causing the noise and second can the clamp bolt come undone to alloy the movement in the column ? or is it a fecked bush in the column ? cheers Answer: i think the clamp maye have come adrift for the column to move like that!! also check the steerin uj, as if all the rubber drops out of it then the column could also move up and down then. check the bolts attaching the rack to the body are ok too.. |
| ID: 5960 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear lights pain in the rear! Flciker when lights and hazards are on Question: I have been told by a reliable source its a common problem that if my headlights are on and i put my hazards on and the rear lights and indictaor flicker alternatively then this is an MOT failure? if so how can i resolve this? iv tried to clean the circuit but to no relief? cheers wiz Answer: change the rear lights for a working pair?- suspect the earth to the rear body- left hand side rear too. |
| ID: 5961 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rover 220 Turbo Oil Cooler Question: I hope you can help, I have just purchased a load of spare parts and one of the parts is a Rrover 220 turbo oil cooler but I am unsure if these have a built in thermostat any ideas? Answer: no idea mate, maybe if you use yer eyes and look at it it will have like erm , a thermostat on it. either that or ask on rover220ownersclubforum.co.uk... |
| ID: 5962 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idle. Question: Hi wiz. Which things could cause my 5 to idle alot higher when i brake? The two one way valves seems fine. Thanks. Answer: check the alternator output is ok. also check the valves again! |
| ID: 5963 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Removing gearbox Question: Hello mate, Just wondering what the best way is to swap a gearbox over? SOme people say u can leave the subframe on the deck and lift the shell over the top or just engine out? Do u know if there is a useful thread or guide anywhere i could have a peek at?? Cheers Adam Answer: well, me and my mate once did it this way.... from inside the car, cut through the bulkhead in the passenger side footwell. a hole about 3foot by 2 foot should do it, this gives you access to all bolts. then angle grind the inner arch out and bobs yer uncle. or you could follow this handy article by some sad gimp who had too much time on his hands... http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=148 which is the easiest way in my book. |
| ID: 5964 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tappin an squeelin Question: alrite wiz, wen a start me car up a let it warm up to about the 1st line on the temp gauge before drivin it! an the engine has a strange tappin noise wen driven normally and wen a come on boost theres a squeeling noise? boost leak? but one its been driven for a while and proper warmed up both noises are go away? what you rekon? cheers Answer: leaking manifold gasket. |
| ID: 5965 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: taking turbo apart Question: hey wizz how r things??? i need to take turbo apart to get the shaft out? can u twell me how or give me link plz cheers gary Answer: take the compressor housing off, is either bolts or a big circlip. the compressor wheel is held on with a reversed thread nut. once you have this off, then it should be fairly simple. remember the shaft and the exhaust wheel are a single unit! |
| ID: 5966 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: conrods Question: iv got a set of standard conrods and it looks like someone has heated them up to put the pistons on and there a bit darker at the piston end and wanted to know if they can be used again.Thanks Dave. Answer: yes, this is the way you are supposed to change the conrods. they are fine to use. |
| ID: 5967 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electrical problems Question: Hi Wiz Ive always noticed that when my car is idleing if i turn on anything electrical i.e lights, heater ect ect, the revs drop and when i turn it off the revs pick up again, and also that when i turn something electrical on when i first come to the car in the morning or when ever it hasnt been used for a bit, it sometimes takes a few seconds for the lights/heater ect to come on. But today whilst sitting at the traffic lights with the windows down i was listening to my fuel pump whining away ( it is quiet noisy for some reason ) i put my indicators on and noticed that the fuel pump started to go faster and slower or louder and quiter as the indicators flashed? Do you know whats up with my electrics and how i can sort it out? Thanks in advance Jay Answer: sort your earths out. check what output the alt is. make new earths if you have to! |
| ID: 5968 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gear box Question: iv put volvo 480 turbo lump in my 5 having problems finding revers keeps going into ferist gear do you think its the box or the selecttor thanks rob Answer: bo selector!!!! http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=86 |
| ID: 5969 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dodgy rear lights Question: When braking and indicating left at the same time the indicator stops and the brake lights go dodgy! ive checked the light cluster because i replaced it recently for a continental one and it still does it! be great if you could give me some advice? thanks. Answer: check the actual connector is ok, and the earth! ive seen both get corroded up! |
| ID: 5970 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dodgy handling Question: My offside rear wheel is out of alignment due to a minor collision in that corner. The front half of the wheel is pointing outwards slightly when you look down the side of car causing wayward handling. Have been told it could be the hub, stub axle, trailing arm or even chassis. Could anyone shed any light on this and how expensive it could be.I have had the wheel off but cant see anything obvious. Any advice would be much appreciated. Mitch B. Answer: best bet is get a 2nd hand trailing arm and bolt it to your car. its essentially 4 bolts, but you do have to undo the handbrake cables and the brake hoses... |