| ID: 5684 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: window motors Question: i know the motors are factory sealed but is it possible to open them up to grease them for a smoother operation? cheers Answer: yes, you can open them up, but it wont make for easier operation, you will find the doors are bent, and the space the window moves up through, inbetween the furflex edges, has been squashed alittle. best wind the window down, and pull the edges apart with your fingers.... then readjust the window alittle... |
| ID: 5685 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fitting an aftermarket turbo Question: hi wiz. av gt a r5 phase II and want more power.i have got the engine in my shed at the moment but am planning to put a hybrid T25 turbo on it but i have been told i need other bits so my engine can take the extra power.what other bits will i need?cheers pall. Answer: If you're planning on running the same boost level, then no, nothing else is required, but assuming you are gonna raise the boost then make sure the fuelling is upto the job, that you're getting nice cool charge temp's, and the exhaust path is as free-flowing as possible. An efficient cooling system will help matters as well. Then you can worry about headgaskets popping, pistons melting, liners cracking, clutches slipping, etc etc  |
| ID: 5686 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Aquamist Question: thanks wizard for your help, but now i need to know more bout aquamist how hard is it to install urself, or is it best to get some1 like BB's to fit it? if i do it my self then i'l take to the rollers when the engine is all back together to be tuned (running around 25psi) thanks Answer: It's easy to install. Just follow the instructions and you can't fail to go wrong, trust. Any prob's fitting it, drop Wizard HQ a message. |
| ID: 5687 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ideling part 2 Question: i had the car set up on a rolling road a while back ,they said they had the mixture screw tightened fully in and it was a little bit over what it should have been ie running too rich,i have k-tec carb with 150 main jet they said it wouldnt pass mot unless i put the stardard main jet back in is this right? 1 more thing next time i get it tuned should i stick some blu tac in the mixture scew hole to stop it tightening or loosening itself? cheers for the advice! Answer: I don't think a smaller main jet would help the idle c.o, given that that's controlled by the idle circuit & mixture jets. It could well be that your carb is leaking fuel into the venturi at idle, hence giving a richer mixture that way? (take off the carb elbow, start the engine, let it idle for several seconds, then peer down into the carb - See any fuel dripping onto the throttle plate?) You can use blu-tak, or for a few pennies you could buy the o.e tamper-proof cap from Renault  |
| ID: 5688 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: T25 / Boost Question: Hello mate. My car has got a t25 and im running 1 bar of boost but its not pulling very hard at all. The car has an alloy i/c, cone filter, standard actuator setup, standard carb. What do you recommend? Would a larger x-over pipe make a big difference? Also my fuel pump is 3 bar is that powerful enough? Your time is much appreciated. Thanks. Answer: Could be several things, but here's a few ideas to get you started... - Grab a fuel pressure gauge and 'T' it into the carb fuel inlet line. Go for a drive and watch the gauge - At 1bar boost, foot to the floor, the fuel pressure gauge should read something like 19/20psi or so. If it's lower than that, it could be the pump itself, wiring to the pump (causing the pump to work less efficiently), fuel filter slightly blocked, fuel pressure regulator not working, boost feed to the fuel pressure regulator is leaking, fuel pump relay intermittently working. - Also check the accelerator cable tension is adjusted correctly, in that the carb throttle plate is fully opening when the accelerator pedal is to the floor. - Check that a mate hasn't stuck a potato up your exhaust for a laugh... If none of those, get back to us  |
| ID: 5689 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Low CO Levels - Not affected by mixture screw Question: Hi Took my 5 to a local garage today just to have the idle emissions and speed set up on the tester. Idle speed is fine. However, the CO level struggles to reach 0.1%, usual adjustment of the mixutre screw has almost zero affect, levels do not start to rise until the screw is loose in the tube. I'm assuming I have an air leak problem around the carb - The idle is ok, no stalling, but its lumpy, and I want to sort it out. -The screw and its rubber ring are new, blocking off the tube with the Renault bung or a finger makes no difference/ -All the vaccum hoses around the carb are free of splits/visable leaks -Carb was recently overhauled at BB, I havnt actually messed with it much at all. However, the original mixture screw was old and naackered, so I took the carb off to change it (and poke it out from underneath). I didnt use a new base gasket on refitting, as it was clean and new-looking anyway. All I can think of is that I disturbed the gasket and now its drawing in air? -Running of the car, including starting is all fine. - The restrictor is in teh breather pipe from the inlet manifold. - I dont think the inlet manifold is leaking, cant hear the ticking noise anyway. - The exhaust has no significant leaks to throw the reader. ??? any more ways I can track down what might be the cause - I'd like to postpone buying a £30 overhaul kit and taking the carb to bits until I have tried everything else in the book lol Cheers Answer: If only all Wizard questions were as detailed as this one! From what you say, it does sound like an air leak, so first places to check are the gasket in-between the lower carb part (where the water pipes go on) and the carb body itself, the 2 gaskets and plastic sandwich plate that the carb actually sits on (manifold), check that the carb base hasn't warped (if it has, a new gasket and sandwich plate should take up any indifferences), check the 2 manifold studs that the carb bolts down on are tight, check the anti-perc fan sensor in the inlet throat is tight, check the vacuum pipe/circuit isn't leaking, spray some leak detector fluid along the inlet manifold gasket part to check it definitely isn't leaking/sucking air in. And as a last resort, check the mixture screw tip hasn't broken off and is wedged in its hole, and double check the idle jet is clean. |
| ID: 5690 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idle CO - Low reading - Extra Info Question: Just had another quick fiddle and a couple of other thing came to mind I thought worth mentioning; - Its got a .45 idle jet (From a previous question I asked you, you said this was too big for a standard cam, and it had caused problems on a previous 5 ive had). I just changed it with a brand new .45 which is all I had. - Covering the end of the manifold/breather pipe changes the engine note, which makes sense. I'm wondering if i've put in a restrictor of the larger size? I brought it from Renault and just put it in...I know there are two sizes available, would having the larger one make such a difference? - Just double checked all the vaccum hoses and the mixture tube - im quite sure none of these are leaking. Cheers again Sorry for the long question. Answer: I wouldn't worry too much about the idle jet, but I would worry about what size restrictor you've put in the breather pipe? It should be the smaller one of the two available, and if it's the larger one you've put in, that would allow more air into the engine at idle, thus a weaker c.o mixture. Quick way to check, is to occlude that breather pipe altogether and see if the c.o mixture jumps back up - If it does, there's your answer |
| ID: 5691 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: High pressure fuel pumps Question: Hi spark Just wondering about ""so called"" high pressure fuel pumps! what are they supposed to do differant, what are the advantages and why would I need one? i have removed my standard pump and seen what it can pump, i just cant imagine why someone would need a HP pump because surely no gt turbo at any boost can sup that much fuel to be able to starve the engine, even over long periods of umbongo! whats your thinking on it mate? Answer: think carefully..... high pressure pump is 3bar and 120litres an hr, the standard ph2 one is around 2bar and 60litres an hr. they have to push the fuel from the back of the car through to the front, so there are losses straight away, as well as the fact that the earth and feed to the pump are rubbish, so its probably not seeing all the electricity its supposed to be seeing, i.e it under achieving! then think about this... a car running 20psi has to have 5psi over boost pressure at all times, else the carb float chamer will not fill up. so.... at the carb you have to see at least 25psi.. 2 bar is 28psi, so *hopefully* you wouldnt have losses of 3psi down the fuel lines? or across the fuel regulator? if you had a 3bar one, then it wouldnt matter
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| ID: 5692 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fitting water injection Question: how you doing ive fitted a water injection kit 1s auqa mist but stuck where to put the purple wire it says put it to a posative switch any ideas. also which is the best place to put the jet i was thinking in the twin dump valve kit that goes in the main boost hose Answer: a positive switch is just ignition live. the nearest one in the engine bay is the one that controls the aei, and can be found in the relay next to it in the scuttle tray area. |
| ID: 5693 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine rebuild Question: Hi, rthanks for the aquamist help, order n on its way, but i'm doin an engine rebuild, n want the crank lighten n balanced & knife edged, also lighten n balance the conrod and flywheel, do u know who can do the job properly? is it worth gettin the pistons lightened 2? cheers chris Answer: Pick up your Yellow Pages and have a look for local engineering/metal fabrication firms - They should be able to lighten & balance said engine components for you. |
| ID: 5694 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: which clutch Question: Hi, i need a new clutch for my car, i was going to get a group N clutch, but have seen an organic stage 1 clutch, which one am i better with? My car isnt running high boost. thanks, caz. Answer: Define high boost? If you're not running mega power, a standard clutch will probably be fine. If you are, the Volvo 440t/480t clutch will do the trick, as detailed here: www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=152 |
| ID: 5695 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Phase 1 and phase 2 radiators Question: Hey Wizzy, Just a quicky about rad's, ive got a small leak on my phase 1 rad', is a phase 2 rad' exactly the same? or do i need to find a phase 1 one? Only asking 'cos i know the p2 has a water and oil cooled turbo and mines just oil cooled, cheers 'o' wise one, Stu Answer: They'll be the same, as the oil has to cool through something, thus the radiator, hence the same for ph1's and ph2's. |
| ID: 5696 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shorting out Question: i am having a problem with the electrics. there is no electrics at all in the car. one minute it was ticking over next minute there was a click and the engine cut out no lights nothing, called out an auto electrician done a few tests and he said that the battery was fried and there was melted power cable. put a new cable on and left, bought a new battery and now when i put the terminal back on the battery - earth first and then when i went to put the power cable on it started crackling and smoking. any ideas would be very much obliged cheers Answer: Sounds like a direct short to earth somewhere. Assuming that you've put the lead on correctly, and that the battery is round the right way (!), it might be another job for your auto-electrician, as the problem could be anywhere, from engine bay to dashboard wiring. |
| ID: 5697 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fluttering noise? Question: wiz iv just refitted my engine and taken the dump valve off. i noticed a fluttering noise wen i come off boost this was without the air filter! if i was to change from standard filter to a cone induction kit would i still get this sexy fluttering noise? Answer: Welcome to the world of compressor surge noise, NOT wastegate chatter as some would call it. My crystal ball hasn't been rubbed well enough today, so I don't know if you'd still get that noise or not. Try it, check for yourself, and report back to the 'Winning lottery numbers' Dept. |
| ID: 5698 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost Question: wat psi is 1.5 bar Answer: Around 22psi. |
| ID: 5699 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carbs and exhaust Question: hi wiz. I was just wundering if i put a KTR power system group A carb on my Phasse II 5 and run with a standered turbo and a KTR power system centre exit exhaust with the boost turned slightly up wud that be ok?cheers. Answer: It will, but you'd potentially be wasting your money as you won't get the full benefit of using that carb with a std turbo running slightly higher boost than standard. Still, you pays ya money, you makes ya choices |
| ID: 5700 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: phase 1 no phase 2 Question: would phase 1 spax adjustables fit on a phase 2 cheers wiz Answer: They should, as long as they're adapted to mate upto ph2 top mounts (which are different to ph1). |
| ID: 5701 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stuck in reverse Question: my clutch went so took engine and box out of the car, fitted a volvo 480 turbo clutch, bolted it all back together and dropped it back in. went to start engine with gear stick in neutral position and it shot backwards! tried selecting reverse and wouldn't go in, only seems to drop into a gear with lever in fifth position but when you take foot of clutch it doesn't attempt to pull just kills the engine, even with front wheels off the ground. the gearbox was fine before so any ideas? Answer: You need to eliminate if it's a clutch problem or linkage adjustment problem. Pull off the gear linkage from the gearbox, and put the gearbox selector into neutral (it'll wiggle side to side fairly easily). Now start the engine again. If the wheels spin, and speedo needle goes up, the clutch plate is probably round the wrong way...so that's a gearbox off job again, and if you're unlucky, you'll need a new clutch plate and a flywheel skim. If the speedo stays on 0 and the wheels hardly spin, it can only be a gear linkage adjustment problem (get the Haynes manual out), or that perhaps the engine is sitting p1ssed due to a broken engine mount? |
| ID: 5702 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cutting out Question: hi i sent you an email a couple of weeks ago about my car cutting out and the turbo seems to stall on high boost! you said to check the wires near the exhaust and turbo which i did the startermotor wires were ok but i found that the TDC sensor wires were melted! would this cause the car to cut out? also i've been running normal unleaded should i be using premium? Thanks alot Daz Answer: Melted TDC sensor wires is never a good thing! Replace the sensor/cable and that should help matters. Normal unleaded is fine to use, but if you start running high boost (>20psi), then I'd consider running super unleaded. |
| ID: 5703 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering Question: Hi just want to know what size wheels and how much the red 5 on the homepage has been lowered? the one with the wheels sat right in the arch? also what sort of work will i need to do eg: arches? Thanks Daz Answer: Not sure exactly, but I'd hazard a guess at around the 100mm mark. If you search the boards, you should be able to find more information that way. Shouldn't need to touch the arches if you're sticking with 15"" alloys (or smaller), as long as the offset is correct of course. |
| ID: 5704 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gordini cyl head Question: hi mate, well just brought gordini, with intention of fitting the head to the phase 2 5 gtt, i know it possiable but is it worth it an dhow much work / parts involved?? HELP IS NEEDED Answer: It's possible to do, as proved by Andrew Cooke and Ashy (to name 2), but it's not that easy a job to carry out, plus it means you'd have to run fuel injection (no room for the carb with a gordini head/inlet manifold fitted). The gains are good, but the work is extensive! Send Andrew & Ashy a p.m asking for their opinions/advice. |
| ID: 5705 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: intermitent fault with fuel supply!!? Question: i have recently started to get an intermitent fault with the fuel supply on my '90 gt turbo, all will be well and all of a sudden the car coughs to a halt with no fuel supply! the car will not re-start for an hour or so and the fuel pump doesn't appear to be running but after a while all seems to be well again!!? i am running a BBtuning high pressure fuel pump as the standard one stopped working last year, the engine itself is running standard everything else pretty much........... any advice would be greatly accepted as i am a new member as of yesterday!! yipee Answer: 3 things to check/eliminate first of all: - Wiring to the pump. - TDC sensor/lead/connection. - Fuel pump relay, located by the fuse panel. |
| ID: 5706 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing Question: hi wizard please help me cause im having a nightmare with my engine.it just bangs out of the carb.my fly wheel is slightly out on the bellhousing mark at tdc and the dizzy drive is not pointing at no 1 when at tdc.is there anyway of sorting this out without taking the engine out?can you remove the dizzy drive without taking the cam out cause i tried and failed?thanks Answer: You can - Remove the dizzy cap and body (11mm bolt and plate hold it to the block). When removed, peer down into the hole and you'll see the actual dizzy drive sitting by the cam. Lift that piece out (pair of long nose pliers, whilst twisting it), position your engine to true TDC (remember there's 2 TDC's as such per combustion cycle), then refit the dizzy gear so that the rotor arm (when refitted) would be pointing to number 1 contact on the dizzy cap. The key slots for the dizzy body to gear are slightly off-centre, thus can only be fitted one way round - This'll help when trying to reference where the rotor arm will be pointing. Once you've aligned everything, pop the dizzy body and cap back on (checking that the rotor arm now points to dizzy cap contact/lead number 1, whilst the engine is still at true TDC), and the timing should now be ok. |
| ID: 5707 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gordini turbo 2 Question: only me agian wiz, just had thought on the gordini, how much work, if at all pss would it be to use my phase 2 engine and parts on a gordini shell?? i know as there stud couldnt use my alloys, but what about suspension, torsion bar, subframe etc etc Answer: It's do-able, as are most things if you've got the time & money, but why not simply tune the gordini engine? You've got the hemispherical head already in place for starters. |
| ID: 5708 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ges turbo t/25 Question: Hi wiz,looking through the files pages and came across a GES turbo price list,i found a reciept or a turbo for my car,can you tell me the max boost i can set for this turbo please?If you can shed any light on this matter as i want to up the boost to 18psi,thanks WISE ONE Answer: I'm guessing it should be able to produce 18psi efficiently enough, given that a standard T2 unit can deliver upto that pressure. Make sure your fuelling is upto the job before you go upping the boost though! |
| ID: 5709 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ges turbo t/25 part 2 Question: Hi wiz,i am running a group A carb,do you think i will have to adjust the fueling,i aint after mad amount of boost,but want to have a bit there lol,thanks again. Answer: Assuming you mean a tuner off-the-shelf grp A carb, then yep, it should be ok for 18psi, but you could always double-check that by putting you car on the rollers and getting the RR operator to check the fuelling is fine at wide open throttle. For the sake of a £20 (or whatever) power run/fuelling check, it might save you from a headgasket replacement etc in the long term. |
| ID: 5711 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gordini 3 Question: thanks mate, asked a few question got some advice, makeing parts fit i can do as being an engineer an dmakein gplane parts can use some nice tools, as for tunning gordin, ummmm well the on eice picked up ( picks in profile ) seems to have a bloody huge turbo, still unsure what to do with it , Answer: EFI it? Nice project |
| ID: 5713 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: polybushes Question: can you help ive fitted poly bushes to wish bones and lost half the skin on my knuckels doing it as the wish bone bolts was siezed in anyway i have come to fit the anti roll bar bushes and the brackets under the car that go to the sub frame not the wishbone ones are a mile out of line and cant get the bracket to sqeeze together over the bush i have red the artical where you said that you used bigger bolts but cant get them any where near any suggestions cheers Answer: You could 'borrow' some big nuts & bolts off the central reservation barriers of your nearest motorway, or as an easier alternative, open up your Yellow Pages and pay a visit to your local hardware shop. |
| ID: 5714 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clonk noise from rear of car Question: Hey, Got a slight problem, when travelling at quite a slow speed over dips in the road i hear a clonking noise from the rear of the car, its not the exhaust and both wheels spin freely off the ground, no play in any of the wheel bearings, i was thinking it could be bushes are there any at the rear of the car say near the toulsion bars as its a metal on metal noise? it's driving me nuts any ideas? thanks Answer: How's the rear shocks looking? Spare wheel carrier secure? |
| ID: 5715 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bad boy bonnet Question: hi wiz was just wondering whats the best way to badboy a bonnet? cheers Answer: Weld the slanty eyed bits of metal to the bonnet, smooth off, primer, respray. No? |