| ID: 5616 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: which clutch now? Question: hi mate just wondering which clutch i should buy next as im going to be running 250bhp+ this year.i was running 200bhp last year with a gsf clutch you told me to get which did the job but not sure it will do 250bhp+ which clutch will cheers mate. Answer: You may find the GSF clutch is ok at the bhp, as it's torque which is the governing factor behind whether a clutch slips or not. If you think it's gonna slip though, something like an AP paddle plate is probably your next best move. |
| ID: 5617 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: too late Question: thanks for your help but alas my brother has stripped the 5 today when i was at work silly billy Answer: Give him a slap from me as well!   |
| ID: 5618 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: clutch Question: my torque figures are almost the same as my bhp so am i better off buying a ap paddle clutch for 250lb of torque do you know how much im looking at?? Answer: Around £150 - £200. |
| ID: 5619 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Water injection - Lighten&balancing = 200bhp Question: Hello, Big plans on my engine, i want over 200bhp or approx 20-25si,havin the crank knife edged & conrods & flywheel lighten & balanced,also using water injection on a group A carb! is there anything else i could do to make the car more reliable at this boost or even gettin more power out of it (money no object) even if i need to buy a new cam or oil cooler thanks chris Answer: Yeah, efi, and a big turbo to produce that kind of boost reliably. |
| ID: 5620 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: part numbers, Question: its a long shot i know wiz, but im after a part number if poss for the tube that stick out the back of inlt manifolds, theres 2 of then that hoses clamp 2. do u know anywhere i maybe able find a part number, or new ones as my local reno dealer is being less than usefull, thanks for all the help wiz Answer: I can't get my copy of Dialogys to work, but the part you're after is a non-return valve. Quote that to your Renault parts man, saying that 2 of them are located at the back of the inlet manifold, and he should be able to find the part number then. Price wise, I paid £25 (each) or there-abouts a couple of years back. Failing that, drop Paul B or Google Bill a PM, and I'm sure they'll be able to find the part number for you, as they've got working copies of Dialogys...allegedly |
| ID: 5621 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: part munbers 2 Question: thanks for quick repply wiz, nt sure if were on about same thing ???? are the one way valves the onesim on about at the end of each side on the manifold, the tubes where the water goes into the manifold to cool it??? Answer: im assuming you mean the water ones...the ones that rot off and go all brittle? - i dunno what those part numbers are. sorry. |
| ID: 5622 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: other Question: hello,can you help please... i have checked the articles and cant find what im looking for. please can you tel me if its the renault 5 gtt engine mounts i need or the volvo mounts for the volvo to renault engine change... all the best your friend steve cheers Answer: personally, i don't know. i know what you mean though, and to be honest all the times ive looked at volvo turbo engines, i havent looked at the mounts!!! you need to speak to this guy: http://www.rtoc.org/members/member.asp?memberid=2490 say the turbo wizard sent you, and after he's stopped choking with laughter, he may actually help 
|
| ID: 5623 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Nice rubber for my wee little thing..lol. Question: Hold on, i see it coming...go on i know i asked for it!!!. seriously though any reccomendations on what lovely tyres to pu on my refurbished speedlines please wiz??. Cuz shes worth it. Answer: not being funny here...but if you mean standard size speedlines, then you only really got one make these days haven't you..uniroyal. if you wanna put on 185/60 r13's then that does open up alot of further possibilities...even so, what do u wanna use the for? |
| ID: 5624 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: crank Question: hi wiz, r the cranks on a gtt and a campus the same? Answer: yes, as long as its the 1397cc engine, you'll be fine... |
| ID: 5625 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: FEELING BLUE!! Question: Hi Wiz hope u are ok, just a quick question for you, times come to give my raider a new coat of paint, so i just need the paint code number, ive heard something about the varients in it, and that you need number 1, this makes it look abit purpley!! which at night mine does! are they loads of shades? and is the proper paint avible from renault? Thanks Answer: the proper paint is always available from renault, you'll just have to spend a bit getting it. my raider is purpley too....at the end next to the big vein, the doc says its ok
|
| ID: 5626 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Head lights Question: My head lights have just stopped working main beam ok side lights ok as soon as i turn on to dipped thay go out help Answer: i suspect your headlight switch maybe broken. if you can borrow one, do so! - also check your bulbs aint blown or the fuses are ok? |
| ID: 5627 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: changing the clutch Question: Hello Wiz, I'm about to install an uprated road clutch, but I've heard that I have to take out the entire engine in order to remove the gearbox... is that true?! Isn't there another way so I can leave the engine be? Help! Answer: you have a choice. 1)you can leave the engine in place, drop the subframe alittle and slide the box over.- but its a pain to get it back on. 2)you can take the whole lot out- but you have to drain the gearbox. 3)you can take just the engine out and leave the box in the car. i use number 3 method alot. |
| ID: 5632 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: is it safe Question: alright wiz. will it be ok if i run my turbo at 15 psi the turbo is a standard t2 ive got a alloy intercooler 2 1/4 stainless exhaust and 2 1/4 down pipe colleco head gasket with 12.9 head bolts rejetted carb because ive got a spider valve a pipercross viper induction kit low temp therm and fan swich with manual overide in car.what bhp would i be geting do u think? will my engine handle this pressure as everthing else is standard how long will a standard turbo last at this psi ? ur help is much appreciated. should i up the rad to a copper core and get a seperate oil cooler or will the standard one be ok , should i also uprate the clutch or is the standard one ok for 15 psi thank you very very much im sorry for going on an on cheers mate Answer: run it at 14psi just to be safe. i dunno what bhp you will get, but im sure you wanna know just for bragging rights down yer local pub, so just tell em its 200bhp and that you saw off an enzo on the motorway. the clutch and rad will be fine. the turbo will be ok too....as long as you keep that oil clean and healthy! |
| ID: 5633 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: information Question: how can i get hold of the people who run rtoc? do they have a contact no. Answer: im not sure about direct club contact numbers....but... id goto club contacts and contact someone through that. or even you rarea rep, they should help |
| ID: 5634 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: bad starting Question: hope u can help.when my cars cold it takes a long time to start.usually i dont need choke but now i have to use it.it runs a little rough and sometimes trys to stall even with the choke. turn the choke off keep revin it and eventually it will idle.sometimes it idles eraticly and then sorts itself out.it idles quite high at about 1100rpm. also if i turn the boost up it stinks of petrol. any ideas will be much appreciated Answer: check the manifold gaskets are ok, and then suspect the carb may need overhauling. |
| ID: 5635 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: actuator Question: hi wiz i run 20psi all the time, would it be better if got rid of the bleed valve and adjust it to 20psi with the actuator arm, will i get any gain or will it be exactly the same cheers o greatful one!!!!! Answer: its better to get it adjusted off the wastegate arm, then you dont suffer any leaks, like the one out of the bleed valve. |
| ID: 5636 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: what else do i need ? Question: alright wiz please could u tell me what else i need to do to my engine to be able to run 20psi safely my current spec was in my last question thank u very much Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/wizard/question.asp?id=1993 |
| ID: 5637 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Removing dump valve Question: From looking through the forum threads i have decided to remove the dump valve to see the difference, but unsure what happens to the vacum pipe that comes out the top of the DV Thanx Answer: Just block it up for now. If you're permanently removing the dump valve, remove the pipe from the T-piece, remove the T-piece, and put a 'joiner' inline to bridge the pipes. |
| ID: 5638 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: bhp Question: i wanna get up to 200bhp can you give me some advise in how to do this? Answer: Yeah, search the boards or previous wizard questions, as this has been asked MANY times in the past. |
| ID: 5639 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: you cant educate pork Question: i would have to say it but your right.... after time and serious searching i managed to find what i was looking for were you said it was...duh... so need i say more ,your spot on good luck in the future regards ........uneducated pork.regar ds steve lol Answer: No problem, and thanks for your previous abusive reply, which I deleted/didn't post on the Wizard section. |
| ID: 5642 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Cutting out Question: Hey wizard got a few problems! when i'm going down the road in my 5 it will all of a sudden jolt then cut out and the ignition lights come on! however it will start about 30secs later! it seems to hesitate a bit on accelleration aswell is this common? also when i turn the boost up it nearly stalls and backfires sometimes so can only run at standard? sorry about all the questions Thanks alot Daz Answer: disconnect the overboost sensor wires on the turbo to intercooler hose. see if that helps. if not, suspect wires shorting out at back of starter motor/exhaust region. |
| ID: 5643 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: clutch Question: can you help on my 5 i go to the clutch cable and i can just pull the cable there is a lot of slack but the ratchet is on the last notch do i need new clutch cable or clutch but it is not slipping thanks Answer: Assuming you've reset the self-adjuster mechanism (at the top of the clutch pedal), and assuming the cable is sitting in its holders, you can either pack out the end of the cable (where it locates on the fork) with spacers, or fit a new cable. I'd check the self-adjuster and the cable route/holders first though... |
| ID: 5644 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Clutch Question: Alright wiz for the 1.8 16v engine conversion in a 5 what clutch would be used the R19 or R5? also I have bought a oil cooler from BBPT for the R5 GTT engine would it fit the 1.8 16v engine ive looked and they look pretty much the same is this correct? cheers wiz. Answer: Use the 16v one, unless you're turbo'ing it, then you might want to think paddle. That oil cooler will be fine. |
| ID: 5646 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Horn Question: Just wanted to know the relay is clicking when the horn is pressed does this mean the compressor is working, compressor what does it look like and how would i know if this is faulty. Is it a silver cylinder thing, i looked at this and it appears to have a few thin black pipes coming out of it. Still need to check the horn wires, is the only way to get to these by removing the front bumper? Answer: it is best to remove the front bumper, but you can get to the grey connector that controls power to that area by removing the drivers side indicator! |
| ID: 5647 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: fuel hose Question: Im replacing the old fuel hoses on my 5gtt. What size internal diameter do i need and approx length? Would i benifit from using fuel injector hose, or braided petroflex hose over the standard fuel hose? There not much difference in price between standard and injector hose. thanks. Answer: just use normal fuel hose. not sure about internal diamater off the top of my head....im sure ive changed it at some point, and i remember there was a problem with the size, but i can't remember what!- old age is catching up on me! just pull it off the regulator and measure it...its the easiest way. |
| ID: 5649 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: horn Question: hi thanks for the last reply on the horn but there doesnt seem to be a fuse for it under the glove box Answer: check the relay which is right next to the horn/ expansion bottle area. if that's not the problem then look at the grey connector behind the drivers side indicator- clean it out! |
| ID: 5650 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: window Question: when it wants to work its very slow and slugish like its not gettin enough power .. its a brand new regulator[motor] Answer: you maybe need to squirt grease or wd40 down the winder mechanism- actually inside the plastic tube. failing that you may need to adjust the window slightly as it comes up...usually the runners get bent slightly or become tight on the glass.. |
| ID: 5651 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Battery Light Question: Soz to keep bothering you but ive just bought my second R5 and it broke down at work i checked it over and found a starter motor cable loose so I tightened it. Now I don't have a battery light and the oil light comes one dim and as you rev the light gets brighter, is this an earthing problem? Cheers. Answer: you need to swap the two wires round that connect to the oil pressure sender at the front of the block. this will cure the dim-bright dash bulbs... |
| ID: 5652 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: what? Question: i dont think me or my mates or the local drunks down the pub will think im running 200 ponies at 14psi (they aint stupid) , and beating an enzo down the motorway thats just crazy . i want to have decent power thats why im asking u so many questions im trying to learn as much as i can about these little french beasties, all i want is decent power and reliability and all ur help so far has been top quality i wouldnt have got this far without it but i need more im new to r5 gtt tuning. cheers mate im sure there will be alot more questions to come(sorry) Answer: its ok dude, i was having an off day you'll find ALOT of your questions will have been already answered previously on either the wizard boards or the general chat boards. btw - you can get 200bhp at 15psi but the enzo maybe alittle out of reach. 
|
| ID: 5653 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Horn Wires Question: The compressor/horn work when i directly connect with the battery 12V. However the wires that got into the compressor are only sending out 9V not enough to power it, any suggestions...gotta pass the MOT.Could it still be the relay as it is clicking...How do you vhange it as it is connected to the wires frm the car?? Answer: there is a grey connection block under the drivers side indicator light. its got 3 wires to it- take it apart and clean it. - this supplies power to the horn and fog lights. if that dont work, then try takin the power straight off the relay that supplies the horn. |