| ID: 512 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bigger Turbo Question: hi wiz, I am thinking of purchasing one of bb's 1370r with a t3 front end t25 back end, what difference would i notice by fitting a turbo of this size, i currecntly have a turbo dynamics md28r. Would i get more power at slightly less boost ?? and more torque ?? Cheers Ben Answer: I know for a fact that this turbo is awesome! It spins up as quick or quicker than the MD28R and flows massive amounts of air. More power and torque are a good bet as it moves more air therefore you need less boost to get the same power. |
| ID: 513 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oiled up!!! Question: I've noticed that there are small drips of what I believe to be engine oil dripping of the sump plug. The oil appears to be coming from the rear of the engine as there is no oil running down the front of it. It's not the sump plug leaking, and I thought initially it was the oil level sensor but its not that either. It doesn't appear to be dropping much, as the oil level hasn't budged. The underside of the car looks a mess (but well lubricated!) with oil covering the exhaust, steering, etc. Where could it be coming from? I think it may be the sump gasket, perhaps near the crankshaft pulley. Can you thing of any where else to look. I’ve assumed the oil is not leaking under pressure as it would be everywhere and oil leve would drop significantly. I also have a question about the oil level sensor. Mines on the blink, which I understand is a common problem. I’ve also heard it referred to as the oil level/pressure sensor. Does the same sensor measure pressure as well (i.e. sender for oil pressure warning lamp)? If it does measure pressure, could a erratic reading indicate intermittent loss of oil pressure? Cheers for your help (again). Nick Answer: It could be the sump seal on the end or a leak past the sealant on the sump (No gasket is used) The oil pressure is taken from a sender at the front of the engine in the line that feeds the turbo. The level sensor is seperate in the front of the sump and can be removed and cleaned. |
| ID: 514 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Saggy rear Question: My car sits about an inch down on the left rear. Is this a case of knackered shocks - they are definetly knackered or is it my torsion bar? Thanks Tom Answer: Could well be a worn torsion bar as the amount of sag is so high. |
| ID: 515 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wierd noise II Question: Hi again Wizard. I took the air filter to turbo hose off and felt the impellar blades. there is VERY little if any movement foward and back but there is about 1mm travel up and down. However, a mate of mine said he thinks it was the breather t piece that had broken ( the last t piece in the pipes before the breather feed to the turbo inlet ) So he plumbed the system without that breather and the noise seemed to stop ( the car smoked like f*&K ). I un plugged it and left it. I am very sure the noise stopped - could this be the case as the turbo has only done 2K since a rebuild with a new thrust bearing and if it is gone what are my options & their prices. Many thanks again, Rik Answer: There should be no forward and backward movement as this is controlled by the thrust bearing. The up and down movement should be ok with 1mm but it may be that the bearings are a bit worn if they were not replaced in the recent rebuild. You must ensure the hole in the inlet ""U"" bend is sealed if the breather is not in it and that you put a filter or catch tank in the breather system to prevent dirt ingress. If you have a receipt for the turbo rebuild, see if it includes bearings/seals if it does then i suggest you contact the manufacturer for getting it rebuilt again under warrenty. |
| ID: 516 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Light is on! Question: Hi Just sent my Renault 5 to get an MOT, Tune, Full Service. After about 500 miles the oil light has come on? I have checked the oil level and if anything there is too much (above the two noches). Why has it come on? Thanks Steve Answer: It may be a wiring fault, or Low oil pressure maybe? Try removing the oil feed pipe to the turbo, hold it into a jug or similar and start the car with NO THROTTLE! and DO NOT REV IT! There should be a good strong flow from the pipe. If not I expect you may have an oil pump fault. |
| ID: 517 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: In Car Fans Question: Basically I have none! The fan does not work no matter what position i put the switch on?? Any Ideas? Steve Answer: I take it you have checked the fuse? The switch may be faulty but it could be the motor. Try taking the motor out the heater unit and bench test it with a 12 volt battery. |
| ID: 518 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: intercooler Question: iam thinking of buying an alloy intercooler, whats your opinion on the twin core version is it worth the extra buck as i only plan to run 16 psi? Answer: If you do not plan to run more boost at a later date then a good single core intercooler should be perfectly fine and you could use the extra money to buy something like a seperate oil cooler system or a copper radiator to assisst in keeping your mota cool! |
| ID: 519 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dumpvalve Question: iam considering buying a dumpvalve. what advantages if any does a diaphram type have over a piston type one as i cant see any reason to buya dia. one with the existance of the piston type eliminating the need to replace split diaphrams. Answer: The piston ones have been said to stick causing detonation and even head gasket failure, but this is usually due to leaking turbo seals allowing oil into the dump valve. |
| ID: 520 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dumpvalve Question: which dumpvalve makes the best and loudest noise a diaphram one or a piston one. Answer: Diaphram ones are usually louder. |
| ID: 521 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: exhaust steady Question: theres supposed to be some sort of brace which stops the exhaust from moving excessively ive just bought one and i cant see where it connects onto, any ideas? Answer: It connects to the two nuts/bolts that hold the exhaust to the down pipe and another bracket from the engine/manifold. |
| ID: 522 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: need help Question: howdy i have just brought my 5 turbo! And have only done the usual like fitting an air filter, But i dont know much about the turbo engine as all my other cars have been fuel injected. i know that you you can get alot of power from this engine but i dony know where to start! some people say start with the turbo others say different! The engine & turbo as i know are standard, so where would be the best place to start to get power? thankyou Answer: The easiest way to get power from the 5 is to turn up the boost. There are a few of ways to do this....... 1) Fit a bleed valve and open it a bit, 2) Fit an uprated actuator, 3) Shorten the actuator rod a couple of turns to increase the preload and therefore boost. Using the standard boost gauge as a guide, increase the boost until it goes a little into the shaded area as this equates to about 10-12 psi and an additional 15-20 bhp if you are lucky. It is advisable to get the car rolling roaded to make sure the jetting is correct and the car doesn't run lean. You could also fit a decent performance exhaust and flow the intercooler to add a little more power. |
| ID: 523 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: extra pipe on new turbo Question: I have just fitted a Stage 3 Hybrid from Turbo Active & the waste gate regulator on the new 1 has 2 pipes-the old 1 only had 1.( is this going to fit ?) Answer: The actuator is the original 2 pipe type whereas someone has converted yours to the cup spec. Just connect your one pipe to the one nearest the front of the car away from the exhaust side of the turbo and it will be fine. |
| ID: 524 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Question: Sometimes in the morning my oil pressure guage does not work, then after about 10 mins driving it starts to work, then suddenly stops working. If I tap the dash it starts to jump and shoot back up (Gives a oil pressure reading). Does this indicate the dash needs to come out and tighten something? Also when driving hard I have noticed oil splattered on the front side of the engine, what is the cause of this? (Many people have told me the dipstick might have popped out, which I doubt) Finally my breather pipe smokes on idle and oil drips from the breather pipe (After a long drive), does this indicate there is something wrong with the pistons/rings? Thanks. Answer: It sounds to me like your oil sender may be partially blocked to give these erratic readings. Have you changed the oil lately? If not try it! The dipstick may be popping out due to excess crankcase pressure which will also explain the smoke and oil from the breather. I would get a compression check done to assess the condition of the piston rings. |
| ID: 525 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strange turbo noise!!!! Question: Wizard, can you help???………….please! I have a bit of a problem with my 5, it’s been of the road for about 4 months now because I hat to fit a new clutch (engine was taken out), before putting it back in I’ve painted the block, cleaned everything and replaced the old tubes with a full samco kit etc etc……………ok that’s the background info over. I finally got it all back together on Saturday, and it was time to turn the key for the first time, once the fuel had got through to the carb it started and seem absolutely perfect, it was ticking over like a dream. When I returned to the car about 3 hours later I started it up (to show my Dad) I notice that there was a really strange noise coming from around the turbo area!!! Obviously before starting the car for the first time I bleed the oil to the turbo and water. It sounds like leaking air or sucking air! But there’s definitely no leak. I’m a little stuck really as I don’t want to drive it anywhere in case I do some damage, and everyone who has looked at it doesn’t have a clue what this noise could be caused by!!! So, in brief I have strange noise coming from the turbo (exhaust side), do you know of ANYTHING that can cause funny turbo noises? Regards Chris Roberts Answer: If it didn't make this noise before then it could be down to its removal. Make sure there is not a gap in the join between the turbo and the manifold or the turbo and the exhaust elbow. These sometimes close up when the engine is hot and reappear when cold. It may have just been the metal joint settling in. Also check the exhaust to elbow joint and the exhaust casing for cracks. |
| ID: 526 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CUP SPEC??? Question: Mr wiz, what can we exactly expect from converting our engines to the ""cup spec" Answer: apart from petrol vapours in the cabin???" |
| ID: 527 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Loss of power Question: Thanks once again for the reply. However, I am finding that the car has lost a shed load of power - an example being it is a quick as a Metro GTi at the moment! The turbo is boosting up as normal to 10 psi, but sounds like the boost is escaping. The boost gauage is plumbed into the ECU vacume pipe, so is it loosing boost as it still registers at 10 psi? I have a bleed valve and when it is fully withdrawn it only boost up to 19 psi ( i only did this once! ) Also, on occasions when I let off, the it sounds like there is another dump valve on the car - rather than a woosh, it sounds like an explosion. There seems to be little or no oil loss and I have replaced most of the engine. Could this be a result of the breather (only an idea). Many thanks again for all the answers you have given me, Rik Answer: It may sound mad but try stripping the dump valve diaphram as i have seen these symptoms before even when the DV sounded ok. |
| ID: 528 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17"" alloys Question: In the article for fitting 17"" alloys it says to use 7 x 17"". The only thing is the wheels that I want don't come in that size but in 7.5 x 17"". I've been to a couple of places about this and they say they should be able to fit with a little bit of work. I'm gonna have the car at the original ride height but I'd like to hear another opinion before I splash out a hugh wedge o' cash. Thanks. Answer: The wheels ""should"" fit but may rub. You may have to add small spacers and remove a little material from the arches. In my opinion you should lower the car a bit at least or it will look like a 4x4! The car will actually be raised a bit due to the bigger wheels and will raise the centre of gravity which is a bad thing! |
| ID: 529 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stalling at idle Question: Ey up Wiz, Are you clarevoyant or something?? My 5 is indeed stalling at idle. When i come to a stop the idle is lumpy, with the revs ring and falling a little. The oil pressure guage flutters as if it is losing power, as does the water temp, though not by as much. Anyway, the engine flutters along with the oil pressure guage until the car quickly 'stalls'. If i give it some gas, the problem is gone. The oil pressure guage rises back to a solid 5.5ish. I can also overcome the problem by giving it some choke. Any ideas? Also, whilst driving, if you come off the gas whilst still in gear, there are some tremendous backfires from the exhaust,engine (poppoppop....pop...poppop..). The exhaust is a scorpion 4"". Please help Wiz, you're my only hope....... Blue Meanie Answer: Sounds very much like a fuelling problem. Either the idle speed is too low, the mixture is set too lean or there is an air leak that is causing the mixture to lean out at idle. Get the CO reading set to about 2.5% and set the idle speed back to about 7-800rpm. |
| ID: 530 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: still need help Question: howdy I did what you said, i fitted a bleed valve, I did not not set it up right which blow my old turbo up(there was alot of blue smoke). So i have purchased a new turbo from bb tuning which is the M1610R. I know it's not the best one that i could of brought but it was the best i could afford at the time! The car is so low that i did not no that it had performance exhaust! the turbo also came with uprated actuator! What would be my next step? thankyou Answer: you should go for an uprated intercooler, fuel pump, headwork/gasket cam, carb etc |
| ID: 531 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boot styling Question: ""Hello, oh great wize one"" can you help ? I'm thinking of getting my boot done ""flush style"". I was wondering how the body shop will go about this and could it prove expensive ? Also can you please give me any good contact numbers etc for a nice front bumper, all I can seem to find are Skeete and Dimmer style and the new carisma bumper (nice as it may be) is a little OTT for my car as it has no other extras Answer: Flushing the tailgate is achieved by welding in a piece of metal and filling the gap with expanding foam helps to stop rattles etc afterwards. Try A&J Tuning for there scooby inpreza style front bumper. |
| ID: 532 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cool it! Question: Dear wiz, That age old problem again - cooling the R5 GTT! I've fitted a low temp fan switch, lower temp themostat (which I've checked is working) and recently fitted a copper core rad for BB. The fan cuts in ok and the system has been bled, but I still think the engine is getting too hot. The fan cuts in just below the 2/3 mark and tootling around town the gauge reads just above the 1/3 mark. This my sound silly but now I'm wondering if the temp gauge is reading correctly. I've fitted white dials, but I'm not sure If the needle is in the correct position. How can I check this? Plus is there an easy way I can measure coolant temperature without using the standard gauge. I guess one idea is to fit an aftermarket temperature gauge, but I'd rather avoid the extra cost if there's a simpler way. Many thanks for the help on other problems. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Nick Answer: The normal place for the fan to cut in is about half way or just above on the gauge. Just above the 1/3 mark is good and not a problem at all. If the fan is working every now and again rather than all the time then i would say you dont have a problem! |
| ID: 533 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Compression Question: Dear Wiz, I've got a DIY compression guage which screws in to the spark plug hole. Can I get an accurate compresion reading by using this by turning the engine over with the coil lead removed from the dizzy. I've done this before on other cars and it works well. What compression should I be reading and is this a reliable way of check for a blown head gasket? Also I have a black cylindrical metal 'thing' with two plastic pipes connected to it fitted to the same braket as the header tank. One end of the pipe has a white gauze filter on one end, which is tucked under the intercooler strap. What the dickens is it and what does it do? Cheers, Nick Answer: When you do a compression check the choke should be open and the throttle held fully open to give an accurate reading. You should get at least 10 bar or 140 psi for a good engine. This is a very good way of checking the head gasket. The black cylindrical ""thing"" is the air horn compressor. |
| ID: 534 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting an Amp Question: Hi Just to make sure I dont screw through anything I shouldnt. I am planning on bolting my sub box into the boot floor, will i hit anything I shouldnt? Also where is the heater grommit, as I want to pass the power cable through there? Will it matter screwing my amp onto my bandpass box, will the vibrations hurt it? Cheers Steve Answer: If you use a short drill bit then you will be fine!! The heater grommet is where the pipes go through the bulkhead behind the turbo heatshield. |
| ID: 535 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleed valve Question: Dear Knowledgeable one, I'd like to fit a bleed valve, but have a few questions. My car has two pipe connections to the waste gate actuator and an over boost switch. 1) Which type do I need 2 or 3 way? 2) Where is it fitted ( I understand it is the front most pipe which is cut) 3) What is the maximum boost I can run, assuming that the engine is sound and I have standard carb jetting and intercooler. 4) Using the standard boost pressure gauge and running at maximum safe boost with this set up, what reading should I see one the gauge. 5) If I increase the main jet (to a 135?) what is the max boost I can run with the standard intercooler + strap Cheers, Nick Answer: 1) 2 way for under bonnet use or 3 way for in car valve. 2) Correct, fit it into the front most pipe. 3) There is no guarenteed maximum but try about 10psi. 4) Just into the red shaded area on the gauge. 5) Standard intercoolers have been known to blow at 10 psi and at 35psi, it all depends on the day! I would say about 15-16psi should be fine. |
| ID: 536 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tuning Options Question: I want to get my head flowed and a cam upgrade. If i use standard boost will this give good gains or is it better with an in car boost adjuster. I shall put on a grp. A gasket set. I want the car to be reliable and not be too lairy so a mild cam (what type is best?). Its only done 41k. Any advice on this tuning idea would be greatly appreciated as im not sure where to start. Answer: I am assuming you already have an air filter and exhaust upgrade fitted. I have been told the cams for the GT are all ok as long as they are not advertised as RACE. Standard boost will reduce as the flow is better through the head. So i recommend a slight boost upgrade would give good results and decent reliablity, say about 15psi. |
| ID: 537 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: whats it all abaaaaatttt??!!! Question: hi wiz, can you tell me the exact difference between 205/40/17's and 215/40/17's, is it the width of the tyre? Can both sizes fit on 7x17 wheels? Is there much difference between the two? cheers - ad Answer: The 205 or 215 is indeed the width of the tread so the 215 is 10mm wider. Yes both can fit on 7x17's but the 215 will also be taller as the 40 part is the aspect ratio. This means that the sidewall of the tyre is 40% of the width of the tyre. This will give a larger rolling radius which in turn leads to rubbing and other fitment problems, so i would recommend you stick to 205/40/17. |
| ID: 538 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: how can I listen to Britney with this humming noise Wizard ?!? Question: About 40mph and above there is a humming, whirring, droning, kind a smooth grinding noise. Its more prominent in the car than out. I thought wheel bearings so I have purchased some new ones. Ive taken the stubs off the car and the old ones look and feel fine (no play or scratching). Before I fit the new ones is there anything I should check? I really dont want to put the car back together and still have the noise. Please help me listen to Britney undisturbed. Cheers. Tom. Answer: Could be worn driveshafts so check them for play. Could also be gearbox so check the oil level. |
| ID: 539 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Grinding / knocking from front os Question: Wiz, I have a gradual knocking noise coming from front os as I turn right. Possible suspects... top strut plate has some rusty metal dust floatin around under plastic cap... ...bottom ball joint rubber split.... track rod end?? Although there seems to be no play in the steering but the suspension, in general, wanders alot and feels very light on front end. Help! Cheers. Dan :-) Answer: Could be driveshaft, wheel bearing, or any of the things you mentioned! Wandering would suggest wheel bearing or balljoint to me. |
| ID: 540 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Shaft Play Question: I HAD A NEW 360 HYBRID SUPPLIED AND FITTED BY A (WELL KNOWN) TUNER IN JANUARY THIS YEAR IT HAS ONLY COVERED ABOUT 1500 MILES AT MAINLY 1BAR - 18 PSI I DON'T HAMMER THE CAR. IT'S ONLY USED MAYBE ONCE OR TWICE EVERY 2 WEEKS, BUT UPON A RECENT SERVICE I NOTICED A LOT OF PLAY BACK & FORTH IN THE SHAFT, THIS IS TROUBLE FROM WHAT I'VE BEEN TOLD BY A FREIND, I KNOW THAT IT CAN MOVE SIGHLTY FROM SIDE TO SIDE (WHICH IT DOES) PLEASE CAN YOU SHED A BIT MORE LIGHT ON THIS FOR ME AS I DON'T REALLY WANT TO SPEND £680.00 EVERY 1500 MILES! AND WITH REGARDS TO THIS PARTICULAR (WELL KNOWN) TUNER, WHERE DO I STAND, WOULD I NEED TO SPEAK TRADING STANDARDS?...I DON'T WANT TO JUMP THE GUN BUT AT THE SAME TIME I DON'T WANT TO PAY FOR SUB-STANDARD GOODS. REGARDS MICHAEL WALSH Answer: First things first, contact the supplier and ask them to rebuild it again under warrenty. They should do if the oil flow has been good etc. They may try to palm you off with oil starvation, if they do say you want to send it to an independant turbo specialist for a second opinion and go from there! |
| ID: 541 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: a mob of immobilisers Question: Is it worth me fitting a second immobiliser, even though i already have an alarm with immobiliser fitted (clifford). Of course the idea of extra security appeals to me, but would it really have any effect, other than the possibility of something else to go wrong?? cheers wiz....... Answer: If a thief gets past a clifford then he deserves the car! |