| ID: 542 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: battery/alternator Question: Wiz Cheers with my stalling problem, i'll get the mix looked at. It was turned right down at the end of April for the mot but had seemed ok since. I have also run an stp system clener through, could that effect it (have i unclogged the injectors meaning that it is now too lean?) ? However, new problem! The battery light is coming on and staying on except under high revs. I have an after market voltmeter fitted which was showing 13 - 13.5v but is now only getting up to 11v. The battery is new but i don't know about the alternator. Any ideas? Blue Meanie Answer: Try the easy things first like loose belt or wires. Then test the alternator output at the alternator with a multi meter to determine if it is ok or not. |
| ID: 543 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electric problem Question: I drove home the other night and the windows wouldn't work and there where many electrical faults, I stopped the car and the battery was dead, I test the volts on the batter and it read 5, I fitted a new alternator and it still only said 5 volts, do you have any ideas, I change the earth lead, which looked dodgy, but to no avail, please help. spiky Answer: Sounds like either the battery is knackered or the exciter lead to the alternator is faulty. Try removing the leads from the alternator, cleaning them up and refitting them. |
| ID: 544 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Actuator Question: Wiz, What sort of benefits will a race actuator give as i have the standard fitted. I am running 18psi .Thanks ADD Answer: A larger actuator with the same rated spring will reduce wastegate flutter and hold high boost better, or you can fit a stronger spring to control the boost rather than shortening the standard actuators arm or using a bleed valve. |
| ID: 545 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump Valves Question: Can you please tell me the benefits of fitting 2 dump valves ,at the moment i have a group A and run at 18psi .The car seems to be very laggy when flooring then changing gear would this help or anything else .The intercooler is a PACE your help would be very appreciated Answer: If you are using the standard turbo at 18psi it will be struggling to reach that pressure and that is why it takes so long. 2 dump valves release the pressure at high boost better so will keep the turbo spinning more. |
| ID: 546 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ENGINE RE-BUILD Question: I am currently having my car engine re-built, due to worn/broken piston rings. I have purchased the following parts from BB Tuning: TIMING CHAIN CHAIN TENSIONOR BOTTOM END GASKET SET LOW TEMP TERMOSTAT 75 DEGREE FULL HEADGASKET SET INC BOLTS UPRATED VALVE STEM OIL SEALS DISTRIBUTOR CAP/ROTOR ARM ALTERNATOR BELT NGK SPARK PLUGS PISTON/LINER SET 2 TURBO OIL DRAIN HOSES LOCKING MANIFOLD NUTS OIL PUMP DUMP VALVE INC FITTING KIT CLUTCH CABLE UPRATED CLUTCH NEW RADIATOR My mechanic is also going to match the manifold ports (something like that) and gas flow the head. Is there anthing else I should consider replacing or servicing other parts during this re-build. Also I have a group a carb, 8mm HT leads, in-car boost, induction kit, full stainless steel exhaust, low temp radiator switch extra boost gauge and a standard turbo already fitted on the car. What will the maximum boost I will be able to run ater everything is done. I normally run about 10psi. Finally how many miles will it take to run the engine in, I was told by a few people it will require about 2-300 miles of normal driving and I should avoid using the turbo during this period, what is your verdict. Thank u for your help/advice. Answer: I would recommend an alloy intercooler and silicon hoses and maybe an uprated fuel pump as well while you have it all apart and then a hybrid turbo. You should be ok for about 15-18psi then. I recommend not using the boost at all if possible for 2-300 miles then a couple of psi more boost every now and then for another few hundred miles until you get up to the required boost at about 12-1500 miles. I don't mean not to use the boost at all but to not floor it or make the engine labour under boost too much. |
| ID: 547 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mental Chatter Question: Wizzard, one of the causes of loss of boost seems to be from my d/v, so i took it off till I buy a new one. But now the wastegate chatter is unbelievable. It can go on for 2 seconds and is louder than on any other car myself and alot of other people have heard. Is it time for a new actuator. It is a t3 Gt tuning one, with a 10 psi spring. I have a T4 one sitting at home and was wondering if this will do just till I can afford to replace it ( 1 weeks max). Many thanx, Rik Answer: I would recommend fitting a new diaphram and spring to the existing actuator. I would not think the T4 would go straight on and if it does, do you know what spring is in it? |
| ID: 548 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hissing me off!!! Question: Hello Wiz, Help!!! I still have this annoying hissing noise coming from the engine bay area when slightly depressing the accelerator at normal driving speeds (30-40mph, revs below 3000). I have checked the dumpvalve and all boost & vacuum pipe work (as you suggested) but all are OK. I have also changed the manifold gasket for an uprated version just incase it was that leaking, but it wasn’t that either (carb gasket seemed fine too). Would the crankcase breather system be capable of making similar noises?(it’s the standard setup). Also could it be the ECU (cracked or something) although I’m sure this would cause other problems (idling , pinking) I’m running out of suspect bits to look at! One last thing, whats the cylinder thing which sits against the bulkhead, with pipes running from the anti perc fan and to the main boost hose? (its got wires coming from the base). Could this be the problem ? Cheers mate. Answer: You may have answered your own question! The cylinder is a valve that allows cool air from the perc fan into the intercooler to carb pipe when the engine is off to assisst with hot starting. If this valve is stuck or knackered then boost will be lost through it back into the perc fan and this will be damaged too. Try disconnecting the pipe to the boost hose and blocking it off. |
| ID: 549 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pipe? Question: Wizzard mate, Whats the pipe called that goes from my Turbo into the exhaust, the pipe has snapped at the bottom end and I need a new one. Cheers Answer: The pipe is known as a cross pipe or some people call it a down pipe. |
| ID: 550 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lost all Coolant while driving Question: Hi Wiz I went for a drive yesterday (40miles), and on my return my mate who was following me said that loads of steam was coming from the bottom of the car. I pulled up and looked under the car and I could see water pouring out the bottom of the car, about 1 ft away from the drivers side wheel. What have i done!!! Can I fill the car up with coolant and drive it home (its coming out fast) I only have a mile to drive? or is this to dangerous (may blow the gasket). What shoulp I do?? HELP!!! Answer: It is possible to get home before doing damage but if the leak is that bad i wouldn't risk it. It could be a number of things like a split pipe, split degassing pot or leaking water pump. |
| ID: 551 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil from Dipstick! Question: Wiz, Please can you give me possible reasons why I seem to have oil coming out of my dipstick holder? The car has been of the road for 4 months and never done it before!! it's running 15psi and the inlet manifold and the compression check I had done was really good for a car that had done 85K. Regards Chris Roberts Answer: There are only two reasons for oil coming out the dipstick. 1) Very overfilled with oil 2) Excess crankcase pressure due to blocked breathers or worn rings. |
| ID: 552 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: In car bleed valve fitting Question: I have purchased a three way incar bleed valve from Prima racing, unfortunatle it came with no instructions and their response was to get them to fit it, very helpful! As I understand it it goes into the wastegate pipe nearest to the rad, but where does the middle connection go to? Does it vent to the atmosphere? or have i got it totally wrong? Any help much appreciated and top site, i'm a new member and very impressed, keep up the good work. Phil Answer: Thanks for the compliment Phillip! You are correct in thinking the middle pipe goes to atmoshere and the other two are the actuator side and carb side of the frontmost actuator pipe. |
| ID: 553 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: larger rad and possible overcooling Question: Hi Wiz, I have got hold of a high capacity rad which is copper cored and is 33% larger than the gtturbo rad. When I fit this rad should I retain my 75 degree stat or replace it with an 83deg one to keep the engine temp up ??? And keep my low temp fan switch or replace it with a standard item due to the increase cooling capacity of my new rad. Cheers Ben Answer: I would say to suck it and see! The rad will still cool to roughly the same temp but it will do it to a greater amount of coolant therefore the thermostat will be open less. The only time a bigger rad is better is when the std one can't keep up with the higher temps caused by much increased boost. |
| ID: 554 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting a starter motor Question: Dear TW, On starting the starter motor makes a horrible grinding noise, although it will turn the engine over sufficently to allow it to fire and start. I assume it's on it's way out and I need to fit a new one. How difficult is it to fit and do you have any tips. The haynes manual suggests it's better to get at it from below. I don't have a garage, so I don't fancy messing about under the car for too long. If I got an auto electrican to fit it how much should I expect to pay? Many thanks Nick Answer: The starter is indeed best accessed from below and removed from the drivers side wheel arch. It is straight forward to do if a bit fiddly. Just make sure you disconnect the battery before you start. |
| ID: 555 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: over boosting Question: howdy i have just had a new turbo fitted, I took the car out got to the dual carriage way down the road from me. i wanted to see how much diffrence the new turbo had made so i stuffed my foot to the floor & the car took of. BUT!!! on the standard boost gauge the needle went half way almost 3/4 in to the shaded section. i am not sure what is wrong, but i notice one of the rubber tubes is in the wrong place! the tube comes of the turbo side of the carb, a about middle of the carb. when i looked at it after the turbo had been fitted this was conected to the bleed valve! so i took it of which made no diffrence but where does that tube go?! or what else could be making it over boost? Answer: The new turbo may have a stronger spring fitted than the old one giving more boost or the preload may be greater having the same effect. As for the pipework, put it back to normal if you can, if not make a note of each pipe and where it goes and get back to me! |
| ID: 556 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ""speedo odometer??????"" Question: First up wizard i would just like to say thanks for helping me out with the questions that i have asked before, ta!! Heres another for you, hope you can help. The speedo odometer, and the trip mileage seem to have frozen, the speedo itself appears to work fine and the needle whips round nicely, but the actual odometer and trip don't move, can you shed any light???? cheers dan Answer: Try removing the dash and checking the connections on the rear of it. If the connections are ok, try clicking the odometer on manually to see if it is just stuck. |
| ID: 557 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pulling away Question: Wizard, whenever I pull away off the line my car judders as if I've pulled the clutch out too far, or I haven't given it enough gas. The only way to stop this juddering is to really give it some gas. Is this a major problem or am I just being paranoid? Answer: It could be a fuelling problem. Try removing the idle jet etc and cleaning them out. |
| ID: 558 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mental Chatter Question: Hello again Wizzard, Ive managed to use parts of both actuators to be able to fit the T4. After some fine tuning, it runs as standard at 11 psi. The car feels fine, but can it do any sort of long term damage. the arm is now fully adjustable and Ive found i need to be careful with the in car boost, but other than that all seems well. Im borrowing a Blitz blow off valve from an MR2 turbo, could this casue any problems ? And one last question, I just had the gearbox replaced at a well known clutch fitters. I got the car back and they said I had done the selector when the gearbox went. They were able to give me all gears other than 5th. Now i have a second reverse gear in first, first is in third, second in 4th and so on. Could this just be that they are talking crap or not ? cheers Answer: Be carefull with the boost and all should be sweet! Blitz valves are the dogs danglies!!!!! Sounds to me like the gearbox selector has been poorly adjusted. Adjust it as per the article on this site. (or get them to do it for you if you trust them enough!) |
| ID: 559 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Still get a noise Question: Wizzy, I still get this strange noise sometimes on higher boost, thought it was the fuel pump as it packed in, but I have changed that for a high pressure one and it still does it! I don't know what it is, or where it is coming from, it is like a hum, but quite harsh, only does it on higher boost and will do it on part throttle as well as full! I don't know if it is temperature based as I free wheeled down a long hill and droped the temp down to below the second bar and it didn't do it then, might be a coincidence. My intercooler is strapped but not flowed, could it be the flap making odd noises? If you have any idea wizzy! Cheers Big Dave :-) Answer: The only thing i can suggest is to try someone elses alloy intercooler and see if the noise goes away! |
| ID: 560 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel starvation/throttle bodies Question: I race a five in circuit racing and am currently experiencing fuel starvation out of tight corners. Do you know how the cup cars got round this. Can you just fill the tank with foam. Also further to my last question on throttle bodies. No engine is still turbo charged. We have made an inlet manifold which takes two carbs. The next stage is to use a management system perhaps the Motec MP4 system but I would like to talk to someone who used a proper 3D ignition system in conjunction with ""proper"" throttle bodies not slide throttles either. Any thought appreciated Answer: You can get foam filled tanks but i am not sure if you can buy the foam seperately. I will update this answer with the throttle body part later. |
| ID: 561 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Sun roof Leaking! Question: Hi I havent seen many R5 with a sunroof, and when mine started leaking I know why! Is this a known problem, or is it just a case of replacing the rubber seals. If so where can I get them from? Answer: If there is a brand name on the sunroof then try them, if not try someone like autoglass for a replacement rubber. |
| ID: 562 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Oil feed pipe Question: Dear Turbo Wizard, I have recently fitted my own filtered oil feed pipe to my new hybrid turbo. Oil flows through it nicely but I'm experiencing an oil leak problem from the bango connector at the block. I have both copper washers fitted and the 22mil bolt tightened up but oil still leaks from it. This has happened since I took it off. Could it be the bolt is not tight enough (what should it be) or the washers need changing if so were would I get the washers from. It only leaks when the car is reved into the midrange indicating when the oil pressure increases. I'm stumped can you help ? Answer: The washers are available from Renault and any good parts supplier. You may need to measure them to make sure you get the correct one. The banjo bolt is done up tight but not totally graunched up! make sure the surfaces of the block and pipe are flat and clean before fitting. |
| ID: 563 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: help me please Question: You going to like this one I was overhauling the carb and now i dont know where ever thing goes help. What do they do to make a carb into a group A carb please please can u help thanks simon Answer: What bits do you have left over? Try asking one of the tuners if they can mail/fax you a copy of the diagram that shows the carb in bits. A group 'A' carb has a larger diameter venturi and different jets etc to a normal carb. |
| ID: 564 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pressure Question: when i took my car to the rolling road he said my carb was worn cos there wasnt enough fuel pressure and i couldnt run boost over 12psi.so i have been driving around in it for about a month now and the other day when i was caining it [really hot day] the car started kangoroing as if was runing out of petrol and then stalled and would not start. I seem to think it could be the fuel pump and i was wondering could that be the fuel pressure problem if not would an uprated fuel pump solve the problem hope u can help cheers mate Answer: It very much sounds like the fuel pump to me! I would take this opportunity to fit an uprated pump for when the boost is high. |
| ID: 565 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering Question: Wizzard mate, When I sit in me car I can move the wheel about 3 inches each way before it connects with moving the wheels. I have been told its the rubber bushes, is this right mate? Answer: It could be the steering column bushes, the steering rack or track rod ends. It is possible that any of the suspention bushes are worn and adding to the problem. |
| ID: 566 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idle Jet Question: Wizard, due to being the complete amateur mechanic that I am, could you possibly tell me how exactly to remove and clean out my idle jet etc please? Thank-you Answer: The idle jet is situated on the side of the carb behind a large brass screw head. It consists of a few componants, one of which looks like a torpedo. You can remove this and leave it out to allow more flow. Blow through the rest of the bits to ensure there is no dirt in the jet and refit. |
| ID: 567 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Torsion Bar Question: Wizard, I tried to lower my car not so long ago, but the torsion bar was completely seized. I've been taking the end caps off and spraying the ends with loads of WD40 on a regular basis. Is there anything else I can do to make lowering the back any easier? Also, I've got a set of 15"" wheels with 195/45/15 tyres on so how low would you recommend I lower it by? Thanks Wizard, you're a star! Answer: I would say to lower it by one spline and see if that is ok. If you really need it lower (It will scrape speedramps) then go for two splines. Use the WD40 on the inner mounts of the torsion bars as well as the ends. |
| ID: 568 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Samco Hoses Question: Hi Wiz Just bought a complete set of Samcos. Turbo, Water and Breather. Just wanted to know if there is anything I should remember before I start changing the Hoses. The Turbo/Intercooler ones are fitted. Is there any specific order I should fit the other one in?? Or can I just go for it?? Thanks Munish Da Munster Answer: I would suggest cleaning all the engine bay and componants you can while the pipes are removed and then start with the water and breather pipes, leaving the boost hoses till last. |
| ID: 569 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure, Oil Level, Oil Light, Just Oil! Question: Hi Wiz The oil light recently came on in my car, and when I asked a bloke to take a look at it he said it was the oil light sensor was corroded, fair enough. So whilst he was there I thought I would ask him about the level sensor at the bottom of the sump. When he looked he said that that switch was knacked as well, but the oil pressure sensor didnt even have the wires going to it. I thought, the oil level and pressure sensor where all in one? Can I have a brief explanation of what oil sensors there are, and where they are? Answer: The oil level sender is the one in the front of the sump and the pressure sender is the one just above it attached to the end of the turbo oil feed pipe. |
| ID: 570 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil level Question: Wiz, can the oil level sender in the sump be removed with out draining the oil out? Answer: Yes as long as the level is not too high! |
| ID: 571 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: battery light flickering Question: when driving my battery light is flickering. Answer: Try checking the wires on the alternator are not loose or that the drive belt is not too loose. |