| ID: 482 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electric window stuck Question: Hi Wiz, My driver side electric window has just stopped working !. I know power is getting to the motor when the button is pressed, but the motor just does not respond. So i guess i will need to remove the motor to test it, clean it etc. So what are the exact steps involved in removing the window motor ? Cheers Wav Answer: 1) Remove door trim. 2) With the window down remove the inner wiper strip taking care not to break it as it is fragile. 3) Prise out the window channel and outer wiper strip. 4) Raise the window so that the front support bolt is aligned with the hole provided, then support the window and undo both bolts. 5) Lower the regulator then lift the glass and withdraw itfrom the outside. 6) Disconnect the wiring. 7) Drill out the retaining rivits and withdraw the regulator through the aperture. 8) Refitting is the reverse of removal except fitting new rivits. It may not be this easy if the motor is stuck but it more likely that the regulator assembly has seized up and caused the motor to go. You cannot get the motor seperate and a new regulator/motor assembly is about £190 from Renault i think. Good luck! |
| ID: 483 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: can i Question: can u help can i do the clutch by taking the gearbox out? Or do i have to take ever thing out Answer: You can do it by removing the gearbox but it is not easy! Simpler to just remove the engine high enough to get access to clutch. |
| ID: 484 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sucking noise on boost Question: Hello wizzy, I have not long ago had a stage 1 turbo and actuator fitted with adjustable boost! when I run std boost all seems fine, if I turn the boost up above 13-14psi when it reaches that pressure it makes a noise that sounds like the piperx filter is sucking stops sucking stops etc....it does not seem to effect performance, I origianlly thought the worst (pinking) but I am hoping it may b something to do with the actuator not opening easier enough but that doesn't make sence to me. What do u think oh great one? Answer: I have heard this noise on a few cars and it never seems to be a problem, just unusual! I wouldn't worry as long as it doesn't effect performance. I think it is probably something to do with turbulance in the airflow through the filter or similar. |
| ID: 485 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleed Valve Question: I've just purchased a bleed valve and I was wondering if you could tell me how to fit it please? Answer: I assume you mean an under bonnet bleed valve. If so fit as follows. 1) Locate the actuator hose nearest the front of the car and cut it. 2) Remove a small section of the pipe to allow fitment of the valve. 3) Secure pipe to valve with jubilee style clips. 4) Close valve fully for first road test. (Should read standard boost) 5) Open valve a small amount. (one flat of the hexagonal head?) 6) Road test again watching boost gauge doesn't go above the first third of the shaded red area. 7) Enjoy your new power! |
| ID: 486 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear wiper Question: How do u fit a clio rear wiper cover on a 5 wiper arm? Answer: You don't! You fit the whole arm. You will have to modify the plastic a bit to get it to wipe flat but it is easier to do it by seeing than by my trying to explain it. |
| ID: 487 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering wheel vibration Question: Dear Mr. Wiz, Since changing a steering joint (the one with rubber vibration damping inserts next to the steering box), the cars handling has been transformed but I have noticed that the steering wheel vibrates when travelling at speeds above 65 MPH. Part of the problem was due to a worn ball joint (both have now been replaced). After replacing the ball joints, I had both front wheels balanced and the tracking checked and adjusted. tyre pressure is okay too. The net result of all this effort is that the vibration is less, but still there. The front wheel bearings are fine. I’ve also noticed that when heavy braking at speeds of less than 65 mph a similar vibration occurs, also the vibration disappears when turning to the left on. Could the vibration be due to warped disks, or do I need to get the tracking checked again, or could it be something else. Your wise words would be much appreciated. Cheers, Nick Answer: There could be some warping of the disks but it sounds like you may have a driveshaft problem which stops when under load from a turn of the wheels. Grab the shaft and try to move it up & down, and left & right. There shouldn't be very much movement at all. If there is then you may need to replace it. I would also check the steering rack balljoints (If they are not the ones you have just changed!) |
| ID: 488 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Noise after adding air filter Question: Wiz, I've just fitted a JR air filter to my 5. Whilst changing gear after high revs there is another noise apparent (like a tinny rasping noise) as well as the wastegate chattering (which is now louder, understandably). Any idea what this could be? Cheers, Blakes. Answer: Check around for loose metal brackets or maybe metal heatshields that could be vibrating at those revs. Sorry i can't think of much else it could be at the moment! |
| ID: 489 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Best exhaust system Question: Iam looking to buy an exhaust which basically comes with as much pipework as possible because iam wanting it to replace as much of the old standard system as possible.Iam interested in either the scorpion, the devil, and the magnex system. As far as i know they only come as far as the front pipe and do not include the down-pipe . Which one will also give the best power improvement. Answer: The down pipe you mention is also known as the turbo cross pipe and doesn't come with a system unless it is a big bore one. All the exhausts you mention will help with flow and power to a similar degree. At the end of the day the choice is yours! |
| ID: 490 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gauges Question: Ey up Wiz! I am about to fit 3 gauges in the top two vents position. I have cut away what is neccesary and have fabricated a mounting plate. I have all the bits needed to fit the gauges and just need some advice before i start. Where would be the easiest place to tap into for.... a) Positive feed when ignition is on(for voltmeter and (electrical, NOT mechanical) oil temp. b) feed for illumination for all 3 gauges(i.e. light up when i put lights on at night) c) boost gauge, which hose? close to plenum? d) where do i go thro' the bulkhead with my boost hose and sender wire for temp gauge? Also, where is the existing oil pressure sender in the engine as i am supposing this will be the best place to locate the oil temp sender using a brass t-piece?? Do you know the thread size? All info would be most appreciated!! cheers Blue Meanie Answer: a) Fuse box probably. b) Back of clock. c) Ignition module to carb pipe close to carb. d) Anywhere you like but maybe best to drill hole to come out behind clocks or fusebox. e) Oil sender is on the front of the engine at the bottom of the oil feed pipe that runs to the top of the turbo. Don't know the size of thread, sorry. |
| ID: 491 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Plugs & Leads Question: Wizard, Can you tell me which are the best plugs and leads to buy for me 5 please? Cheers Ben Answer: Any good quality leads ie magnicor or bougicord and NGK Red Racing plugs work well in the 5. Either B8EV or B9EV are common. |
| ID: 492 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo gauge/ cut out problem Question: My turbo gauge has just packed in, could you please tell me where the sender unit is located? Also, maybe coincidentally but when I accelerate hard, say in third gear the car gets to 4500rpm then starts to cut out and kangaroo until I back off the gas. I thought maybe fuel stavation or could it be connected to the gauge thing? Thanks ! Answer: I think your boost gauge pipe might have come off. It starts at the carb top, then it goes through the bulkhead below the carb area and up to the back of the dash. Check all this pipework. The running problem may be due to a weak mixture caused by the leaking pipe. If not try the overboost switch located in the short boost pipe. |
| ID: 493 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clicking Noise /Drone At Speed Question: When stopping or going over speed humps I am getting a loud clicking noise. It seems to be comming from the drivers side but I cant tell if its front or back. I thought it may be because the door hinges are worn a bit and the door is moving ?. Probably something far more expensive though. I dont know if this is linked but occasionally at motorway speed it develops a loud droning noise wit a slight vibration, once you slow down it seems to go. I initially thought wheel bearing although surely this what get louder the further you drive due to the heat build up ?. The car has done about 100k as is all original except for track rod ends about 50k ago. As I appreciate that most of this is probably knackered what is the best order to replace all the suspension/steering parts, usual story lack of cash stops me from doing it all in one go. Thanks in advance. Answer: Sounds like a dodgy drivers side driveshaft. I know the symptoms as i have just watched the elves change one today!!! To check the wheel bearings, jack the car up and shake the wheels backwards and forwards. Any movement is bad. Left to right will show you if the track rod ends are ok or not. Bouncing the suspension and seeing how long it takes to settle (should be up, down, stop!) Check also the anti roll bar bushes and lower ball joints for wear. |
| ID: 494 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cam shafts Question: Wizz, Could you recomend a cam shaft for the 5? what improvement would it make on a basic 5 with adjustable boost etc? How much is it to get fitted, I hear the engine has to be removed, is this right? Cheers. Answer: I have heard the Piper 285 gives good results but have never tried it myself! Yes the engine has to come out as the camshaft is part way down the block. Ask one of the tuners for a price fitted. |
| ID: 495 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Click, click , click, go..... Question: Hiya Wiz, hows trix? Got a prob with the electrics methinks. For some time now, when operating the starter, I get a click, and nothing. Somtimes I can do this up to 10 times before the engine wakes up, other times it can start first time. I can`t find any lose connections, but the other day, while leaving the car on the drive for a bit, I tried to start it and the starter motor just kept continually clicking and the alarm activated. Dead battery, I thought, even though I definately left no lights on etc. It`s happened once b4 so I charged the battery and it was fine. After leaving the car for bout an hour, it sounded quit poorly 4 a brief second and burst into life!? I know thats not much to go on but what trouble shooting do you think I`d be best trying? New battery, Starter motor, maybe the alternator not charging the bat while on the move? (The stereo takes alot out the battery also) Thanks for your help, and keep up the good work. Shilvers Answer: I would say try leaving the stereo off for a few days after charging the battery and recheck. I expect it is not getting full charge and therefore struggles to start the car. Let me know how you get on. |
| ID: 496 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo gauge II- the return! Question: Hi again, Thanks for your previous advice:with regards to the turbo gauge, I now realise it is an air tube going to the pressure gauge, it seems to be connected ok, however, when I pulled it apart to check, fuel leaked out of the pipe? Is this normal - this pipe seems to share a line with the carb fuel return. I am most confused and Haynes manuals don't mention any of this good stuff! As far as the engine quitting when acelerating I have disconnected the overboost sensor and that made no difference. Should I buy a larger hammer? Thanks! Answer: It is not normal to have fuel coming out the boost gauge pipe in fact i would say it is connected to the wrong hose! It should be connected to the vacuum line not the fuel line!. oh and by the way there is no fuel return from the carb, only the regulator by the brake servo. |
| ID: 497 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dash lights come on but no go Question: Hi, I've asked before about this, However, I've sorted the sparking at exhaust and also fitted an extra earth wire but the starter still won't turn over, I've tryed charging the battery and cleaned all earths that I could find including the wires going to and from the starter and alternater, please help as I'm really looking forward to going to the rolling road session to fine out just how much power the could put when It does run. Thanx very much Wizard. Answer: Sounds to me like the starter has had it then i am afraid to say. Probably shorted out due to all this sparking etc you have had. |
| ID: 498 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoking under bonnet Question: Dear wizard. When I finally got my car started after fixing an ignition fault, I relised the car wasn't running right (the car would have stalled without holding the gas slightly). I opened the bonnet to find exhaust smoke coming from around the turbo charger area. Please could you tell me what this may be? Expensive? Also I don't know if you can help me on this but if you or anyone who reads this letter knows where I can get a Blue Renault 5 GT turbo Haynes manual from, could you/they let me know. Thank you very much. J_Gillingham Answer: You may have had some oil deposits etc on the turbo and exhaust which will burn off over time without causing a problem. or You may have loose nuts! on the turbo, exhaust or manifold i mean!!! On the Haynes manual front, try backstreet accessory shops to see if they have an old copy. |
| ID: 499 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Adjusting the rear brake compensator Question: hi wiz, How do you adjust the rear brake compensator ?? Which way for more braking force and which way for less ??? cheers Ben Answer: Screwing the nut in more should increase the braking force needed to lock the rear wheels. |
| ID: 500 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump valve Question: i recently fitted a peco big bore 4 exhaust to my car and since i have you can no longer hear the dump valve, is there a reason for this? it isnt because the car is too loud now but do i need to increase the boost? Answer: It may be that your dump valve diaphram has split. Take it apart and check it. Yes increase the boost!!!! |
| ID: 501 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: C02 Screw Question: I have some how managed to lose my c02 screw from the top of the carb , I have spoken to my local Renault garage and they quote a 10 day wait. I have spoken to BB tuning and 5 star who both don't do it ,is there any where in London I could go to buy it as I don't want to wait Answer: You could try Rachel Head at westlondon spares 07885 448163 or else try local scrapyards. If all else fails, wait for Renault! |
| ID: 502 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Water pipes Question: Hi Wizzy, I am getting a bit annoyed off now! You see about a week ago when I was toeing it abit and noticed some water coming up my bonnet, under close inspection 2 pipes had split, the heater metrix to degassing chamber one and the water pump to bottom of carb, I got these replaced but the guy that did it didn't put the metrix pipe back in the retaining clip and the alternator belt wore though it! So now I have had it replaced again and a new thermostat. Now it is running fliping hot! there seemed to be a little bit of water come out onto the underneath of the bonnet and the water pump to radiator pipe seems quite hard! What is this now? Dave :-) Answer: It sounds like you have air in the system somewhere. It could be due to another leak or possibly a blown head gasket. (Allways a possibility with overheated engines.) |
| ID: 503 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ignition Advance Question: Hi mate, What are the advantages of advancing the ignition timing? BBTuning sell a sensor which advances the timing by 6 degrees, would I gain any power / performance from this and would the car need to be setup again or is it a case of plug in and off you go! Cheers mate. Answer: Advance will aid power and response but you have to have the right fuelling and compression (no skimmed head) or you will get pinking. You are advised to get the car set up again after fitment to be on the safe side. |
| ID: 504 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Click, click , click, still no go..... Question: Need some Wizardly help again I`m afraid. After charging the battery for 24hrs, and leaving off all non-essential electrics whilst driving, (Tricky at night!) the car was o.k for a couple of days even though the clicking problem remains. Tried to start it this morning and nothing. The only thing that might cause a drain is the perc fan after a run. Put the charger on for about 5mins this morning and no problem again. It`s showing over 12 volts across the battery, and it`s now having yet another charge. I think it`s got to be the battery not holding its charge, but I`m not sure if the clicking starter is causing a problem. Any more ideas? There`s a bag of chips in it for ya. Cheers. Answer: You could try connecting an ammeter inline with the positive lead to see what current drain there is on the battery. You will expect to see a few milliamps for the clock and any alarm you have fitted but thats all. I would suggest either buying a new heavy duty battery (065??) or trying one from someone elses car for a day or two to confirm. |
| ID: 505 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: front fan not working Question: right well friday my fan ( the one right at the front near the radiator)was constantly on and ran my battery down, so i disconneted it and everytime ive had to drive it ive connect it back up i went to connect it earlier today and it wont work ive asked a couple of garages and the reckon its something to do with the wires but is a big job becase they have take the radiator out and check em all, what do u think it could be ?? cheers Mich Answer: Sounds very much like a dodgy fan relay. It is located near the alternator side of the radiator and should be clipped onto the front plastic panel that guides air to the radiator. These are prone to water injestion and cause no end of problems. Replace this and all should be fine. |
| ID: 506 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Window and Locking Motors Question: Dear Whizzo My turbo's got no central locking or elecy windows. Is it just a case of putting them in the doors along with the wiring, and getting another centre console? the wiring for switches to the point where the wires go into the door are there. Can u shed a bit of light on the subject pleazzzz. Answer: If the wiring is there then like you say just add switches and motors. |
| ID: 507 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: front fan not working !! Question: hello again, ok i repalces the relay and have also replaced the switch, when i replaced the relay it worked and an hour later didnt work and my car nearly overheated any idea of whats going on now ??? cheers Answer: If you used an aftermarket relay rather than a genuine one then it may have overloaded it. It could be that your fan is semi seized and therefore drawing too much current. Check to see if it spins freely with the power off for safety! |
| ID: 508 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strange Noise Question: Alright Wizz, I finally got the gearbox done on the car and last night started to hear a noise that sounded like reverse gear when the boost went over 9 psi. It is very loud and seems to have reduced performance too. It is a GTT HE5B turbo thats only done about 2,100 since a recon with a 360 thrust bearing. Ive turned the boost down, but do you have any ideas ? Oh and the oil breather pipe that runs to the turbo inlet has split behind the carb, before the restrictor. Could this be the cause ? Cheers, Rik Answer: Sort the split pipe straight away as it will let dirt etc into the inlet tract and can cause damage. It will also allow more air into the manifold which will weaken the mixture and could cause pinking. I take it you mean there is a whining noise? This could be the turbo blades catching the casing if the turbo hasn't been balanced properly. Check for freeplay in the turbo shaft, too much could mean worn bearings. |
| ID: 509 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ""spraying??"" Question: Hello there Wizard, I am going to be undertaking the mission of spraying my car, but i have a couple of questions that i hope you can answer. Do you know the paint code for 'pearl white'? - Is it a straight coat of paint or of the base coat and laquer type? - Can you remove the black inserts on the bumpers, and can you get replacements? - Do renault still stock the rubber seals used on the windows etc since mine are looking a bit tired? - Final question for you, i think i am going to be taking the engine out and spraying the engine bay aswell, is there any worthwhile maintainance that could be done while it is out? (the engine has covered 86k, un-modified at the moment, and runs fine) sorry to bombard you with so many questions, hope you can help out cheers dan Answer: -The paint code is on the plate in the engine bay (63x I think) -The black rubber strips can be replaced but are expensive to do so. This is why a lot of people have filled the gap left by the strip to smooth the bumpers looks. Window seals are still available but don't ask me the part number! :-) As for the engine, there is lots you can do while it is out but it is down to how much money you want to spend and how much performance you wish to wring out of the car! I would recommend fully cleaning the engine and all componants and painting the block, brackets, etc to make it look nice and replace anything that looks worn or perished especially things that are hard to get to when the engine is fited. If you have the money I would recommend changing the clutch (uprated?) and either reconditioning or replacing the starter motor and engine/gearbox mounts. |
| ID: 510 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lumpy, bumpy Question: hello again beardy weird, got the car back on the road now - thing is it's very rattley (almost like a loose bolt) coming from underneath, behind and to left of the turbo (that's one location not 3 different ones !!)and when in 3rd upwards the thing shakes itself so much I'm suprised the centre caps stay on, at the same time if I plant my right foot the blower screeches rather scarily - what's going on dodgy carb, loose pipe, busted blower (Noooo) thanks for any help PS if you got any spare elves they don't want to pop by and fix me car do they, sure I can find some pixie dust to keep them happy ?? Answer: Sounds like you could have a nut rattling around in the turbo!! That will teach you to call me beardy weird!!! |
| ID: 511 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Noise on high boost Question: Hi Wizzy, I don't know if you will be able to help me as it is difficult to describe, but I get this noise from the engine when I put my foot down at higher boost perhaps 13psi, the niose is like a low but loud hum, it is almost like a tyre rubbing sound. It doesn't always do it but it is doing it more now. It did it every now and again when I first got it which rules out the air filter, exhaust and dumpvalve. I disconected my perc fan and it still did it. Is it my turbo? it doesn't smoke or anything. Any ideas? Cheers dude. Dave :-) Answer: Are you sure it isn't a tyre rubbing? Could be a worn shock absorber getting worse as time goes by. |