| ID: 5516 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: jets Question: hey wiz, can you give me a idea what size to start with for jets for following spec Std engine t2/25 turbo running 20psi fmic are they available from renault or is it a tuner job to supply? Answer: 135 or 140main jet. thats it. |
| ID: 5517 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cars runs terrible after carb overhaul Question: Hey Wizard, I'm at a loss! I've just overhauled my standard carb with the K-Tec carb overhaul kit. I also installed a 1.35 mm main jet, because I've set the (hybrid) turbo to 18 psi boost pressure. But now, the car runs terribly irregular and I have to keep the choke open for about 1/2 to 3/4 to prevent the engine from stalling, even when it's rolling and I press in the clutch. I cleaned every part of the carb thoroughly and made sure every jet and hole is completely free of dust or other stuff. The damn thing just runs terribly now! Any idea what could cause this? Answer: yes... did you put a small rubber 'O' ring on the mixture screw? if it aint there it will be cr@p. take the BIG brass screw out of the drivers side of the carb- the idle jet and take it apart. then spray through it with brake cleaner or carb cleaner. should mist out of the jet in the end of it! then look through it to see any bits in it! then make sure there is a rubber seal on it where it screws into the carb body. you will then have to wind the idle control screw to get the revs to a reasonable level, when the car is hot. then mess with the mixture screw. |
| ID: 5518 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boooooooost Question: ok now im confused,i have aprob with my 5, what happens is i drive around then when it boosts it goes up to 10 and then it sounds like the clutch slips but theres no smell of clutch no lack of power and when you here it boost you can here more power but no delivery to the rims?????? as far as im aware there is no holes in my pipes although im going to check them fight now,is there a chance you may loose boost else were,ive checked the dump valve (bailey no troubles at all please help.. Answer: bailey dv, they stick open. does sounds like a leak though. if the clutch slip,s the revs shoot up rapidly, without going anywhere. check pipes first and dv then get back to me. |
| ID: 5519 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo Question: Is it possable to run a phase 2 turbo with out the water supplie as a phase 1, i've heard that this will reduce the engine temp and not harm the turbo let me no if i've been told right . Answer: it will reduce engine temp, but the turbo is designed to run with water cooling.- which will reduce its life if you dont. |
| ID: 5520 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: response to 5518 Question: ok point taken ....maybe it maybe the dump valve then,ok if i start my renault 5 gtt phase 2 it obviosly goes into idle mode,with me so far. the dump valve is a baileys and it blows off normaly when i drive,yet you can here ivor a very slippy clutch that allows you to have power or a boost leak somwere,now tel me wiz as im not sure on the answer ill get but when the car is on idle are you suppost to be able to look at the dump valve through the holes (in the dump valve) as if your looking right through it,in other words in idle you can see right through it as if its open,now is that a good thing or is it f**ked Answer: |
| ID: 5521 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cylinder Head Question: Hi Wizard, I'm under the assumption you can use Metro Turbo valves in the cylinder head as they are 1.3mm bigger. Do you know its purely the inlet / exhaust or both are used???? Is their any minor/major gains to be had??? Thanks p.s. Happy Christmas Answer: theres always a gain to be had out of bigger valves, as long as you mean the hole beneath them bigger too!- larger valve seats are needed if you are gonna do things properly. as for whether larger valves are metro ones...i aint got a clue. you really need to get to a mini/metro breakers with a dismantled gtt head and have a quick look. there aint much room to play with on the gtt head. it is possible, but only just! |
| ID: 5522 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 32 DIS - Idle Screw Torpedo Insert Question: Hail Wizard  Over the weekend I overhauled the carburetor on my newest R5, everytime I do this I find another niggle and learn somthing new lol. Anyway, apon rebuild, the car ran poorly, shifting from good to bad to stalling within seconds. Anyway after investigations I discovered that the idle JET (not mixture screw) was causing problems. When fully tightened it gav way to this poor running, when loosened anticlockwise 90deg or so things are spot on. The idle screw+torpedo in questions were both brand new from Renault (I replaced pretty much every part they can supply). My question is this - I notice no difference between the outer brass screw, but the torpedo inerts (that renault supply separatly) had different numbers on them, with the old one in place, that reads '44' the car is fine. With the new one, that reads '45' idle and running is very bad unless it is loosened out. My guess is that the different of 0.01mm cant be the problem, but I am not lining up the torpedo correctly inside he brass screw. There doesnt seem to be any reference points in order to get the holes of the torpedo correctly possitioned when the screw is tightened. Can you shed some light? Or just tell me im doing it all wrong wrong wrong Cheers   Answer: its the size of the hole in the end of the jet! with the 45 in place it will be putting too much juice into the engine. - ideal for lumpy cams, but sh!t in everyother situation. |
| ID: 5523 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: where the water Question: helo spark/tubby wiz....... i have a problem... i noticed a last month that my water in the expansion bottle was really low.. so i got some coolant and topped it up, but when i checked it last week it was almost empty again... i first thought i had a leak, so i let the engine run for awhile and i could not see any water leakage at all, so where is it all going??? that much could not be to evaporation could it?...merry crimbo Answer: split hose mate. check round the waterpump and manifold for leaks. best check after a run, turn the car off, then wobble all hoses. also listen for hissing! |
| ID: 5524 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump valve again!!!!!!! Question: When i start my 5 up there is a slight whistle noise from the dump valve, if i rev the car it goes away ive only t'ed a aftermarket boost gauge into the vacum pipe from the dump valve to the black box(AEI that right or ECU) in the bulk head. Is this right or is something knackered ???? The car boosts upto 8psi on aftermarket gauge, and just over half on standard gauge. Answer: the car sucks air through the dumpvalve when it idles. hence the whistle. when you rev the car the valve closes. |
| ID: 5525 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine conversion Question: Hello Wizard.. I'm thinking about to do engine conversion on my GTT.. Whats better 1.8 16v or megane 2.0 16v engine.. how much boost can i run with this engine !! the engine's STD !! whats better !! Thnks.. Cheers Carlos. Answer: you need to speak to bb tuning. i'd say 2litre is better, as its bigger, and its the same design as the 1.8 16v i think. |
| ID: 5526 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost Question: refrence 5518,i do believe,i have tried a forge dump valve no diffrance? still lossing boost,it aint the pipes and it aint the valve whats left? Answer: turbo is knackered. |
| ID: 5527 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbos Question: CAN YOU TEL ME CAN I TAKE ANOTHER TURBO I.E A TURBO FROM A ROVER AND STICK IT ON MY RENAULT 5 GT TURBO PHASE TWO? ALSO LETS SAY I CANT USE A TURBO FROM A ROVER,COULD I STICK A TURBO FROM A DIFFRENT CAR AND STICK IT ON MY 5....IF SO WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMEND.....NOT REALY WORRIED ABOUT THE MANIFOLD AS IM SHORE I COULD MAKE ONE FIT CHEERS WIZ AND MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND THE WHOLE TEAM X Answer: the rover tomcat turbo will fit, but you will need a new oil feed, and twist the housings around. if you are not technically able, then i wouldnt bother. even the studs on the turbo have different threads than the gtt. |
| ID: 5528 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb jets ! Question: Hi wiz I'm after some of your wisdom on carbs as i know your be the man in the know. I want to run my car at arount 15psi for normal driving but want to be able to turn it up to about 25+psi for a quick thrashing. I'm not to sure what size the jets are at the moment. What is the best thing to do with the carb to achieve this, and also what sort of boost controller? I have built the engine with low comp pistons, 270 cam, head work etc etc Thanks Wiz Answer: so you want it to run economically at 15psi and still fuel for 25+ psi? - cos this aint gonna happen!!! if you fuel it for 25psi, it will overfuel at 15psi!!! i think personally that you need to be a little more realistic as to what you wanna do with the car and how much power you are actually gonna get. - will the clutch cope with over 25psi boost? what venturi size is the carb? |
| ID: 5529 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no position 2 electrics Question: happy xmas wiz! right iv had a slight electrical prob for some time the last owner of my 5 decided to wire the rad fan to the yellow wire at the top of the alternator and im thinking this has blown something as the fan was running all the time with ignition in position 2. so now i have no position 2 electrics i have position 1 electrics cos when turning the ignition on the clock comes on and i can turn the heaters on but then turning the ignition to position to theres nothing coming on the dash. now iv checked all fuses and there all intact so just wondering if theres anything obvious? cheers alex Answer: you need an autoelectrician! the joys of living with other peoples bodges!- a fecking nitemare! |
| ID: 5530 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starter motor Question: hy there i was just wondering, i have just replaced the starter motor on my car because the solenoid was sticking. And i was just wondering my frontpipe is very close to starter motor, would the intense heat sink into the starter and ruin it, and if so what do you recommend i should do. Answer: this is why renault put a starter motor heat shield there.... yo could lag the exhuast pipe with heat wrap, or buy a heat shield from renault. also check to see that your rocker cover aint leaking. |
| ID: 5531 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: hi wiz i bought a fuel pump off e bay its a bosch 0580 464 070 its a lot bigger than the standard one the seller said it was a grp a just wanted to no if it was ok to use on my car cheers Answer: yes it is the 3 bar fuel pump. |
| ID: 5532 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Only boosting to 7psi????? Question: Hi Wiz, I changed my turbo to a T2/T25 with single port actuator and am having problems with the boost being too low. I tried adjusting the actuator arm to make it shorter, but if I make it any shorter it won't fit back on the wastegate, so I assume that this is already quite short. When the turbo starts to work, there is a high pitched whistling sound, is this a good clue? I just really want to solve this problem, can you give me a few pointers as of what to check or adjust so that I can start running the kind of boost I want? Cheers  Answer: you need to pull the actuator arm onto the wastegate else it won't hold boost properly... it shuldnt just fit onto it! high pitched whine, mean leaks or fecked turbo. check everything. |
| ID: 5533 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo Question: hi wiz just a quikie ... my speedo seems to be mile inacurate ... also when i go over bumps it goes off ... is it the speedo cable or the actual speedo head?? thanks wiz Answer: check the wire all the way from the gearbox to the speedo head. i reckon it will be the dashboard end of it though! need to clean up the contacts. if the dash has had new dials fitted..i.e white ones, then the needles could have been fitted incorrectly.or you have the wrong size tyres on there! |
| ID: 5534 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: central locking Question: Merry christmas wiz since yesderday my drivers door does not lock when i hit the alarm lock botton on the remote i can hear the door actuater doing something and it seems to operate when i push the in car lock botton( in the centre console) it is only the drivers door could it be the actuater? Cheers Answer: yes. take it apart and clean the lock mechanism, so it isnt full of 20yr old grease...which goes slightly rubbery over the years! |
| ID: 5535 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boostin Question: Wot am i to do with the pipe that goes from the solanoid on the back of the enginebay to the main boost pipe now i have fitted a k-tec fmic, and also wot do i do with the 2 wires that stop the car overboostin as they are disconected, and will this make my new 180 hybrid spin up 2much? Cheers mi old china plate. Answer: block the pipe to the solenoid. wrap the two wires up so they dont short out on each other or the bodywork! all sorted! |
| ID: 5536 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no position 2 electrics part2 Question: right iv been having a poke around today with the volt meter checked voltage at alternator and that was fine checked ignition switch and that all good too! Answer: you still need an autoelectrician! sounds like someone previously has boo-boo'd! and fecked up the electrics. |
| ID: 5537 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: servicing Question: hy there i was just wondering if you know of a decent garage quite near me where i can get my car get serviced i live in billingshurst west sussex. Cheers for your time Answer: you are looking at either going to a renult dealer, or getting one of your local techy bods to have a look. what i would do is ask your area rep for info, as erm....thats what they are there for
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| ID: 5538 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: backfiring Question: i was driving my car the other day when all of a sudden it started backfiring loads and when i started to try to accelerate i was losing power and eventually i came to a halt, i started it up like normal after that and it was fine. Any suggestions Answer: check the two wires that go to the overboost sensor on the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. check they aint touching anything! also check the timing sensor wire from the top of the gearbox to the ignition unit in the bulk head isnt fried on the turbo or manifold. |
| ID: 5539 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 2 nd gear?? Question: HI WIZARD, HOPE YOU CAN HELP, IF A GTT JUMPS OUT OF 2 ND GEAR ALL THE TIME , WHAT COULD BE THE PROMBLEM? ITS FINE IN OTHER GEARS, IVE HEARD IT COULD BE AN ENGINE MOUNT, HOW CAN I CHEACK THAT? AND ALSO ESTIMATE OF THE COST OF REPAIRING THIS FAULT? THANX PETE Answer: its very very unlikely to be an engine mount. EVERYONE suggests this as a first option as it is the cheapest, but i can honestly say its 80% chance that its not. sounds like the box is worn and will need either rebuilding or replacing. 2nd hand boxes can be £50-£150. reconditioned ones can be up to £300??? but then you gotta find someone to fit it. whilst you are there when was your clutch changed last? i could be wrong on the prices cos its been a while since ive looked into this! |
| ID: 5540 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bhp Question: hi wiz had a rolling road a few months back and got 170 bhp at 15 psi is this good? i am wanting 200bhp at fly will 20psi do it?i have every thing upgraded to make it ie turbo chargecooler group a carb fuel pump cam info would be appreciated Answer: depends what turbo and cam you have. 20psi should make 200bhp with a t28/t25 and a 285 cam. |
| ID: 5541 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb jets ! Question: Well i wanted to run two boost settings to give the engine a rest from time to time. The clutch is rated to 250Nm and i'm pretty sure it's a standard venturi on the carb. I can soon change the clutch for something a bit harder when it decides to call it a day. Do you think it would be better to just run 1 boost setting and leave it at that ? i'm after about 200-220bhp at the wheeels !! Thanks Wiz Answer: with 21-24psi you should get 230bhp at the fly approximately. which equals about 200bhp at the wheels. you will not be getting much in way of grip if you are on road tyres though. id personally just stick to 15psi everyday and 20psi on special occasions. with a 140 main jet in the carb. |
| ID: 5542 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Low Pressure Surges with Cold Oil Question: Hi As with most 5's ive known, when I brought my current one, the oil pressure gauge wasnt working. I picked up a second hand sensor/sender and fitted that, at the same time fitted a braided hose and cleaned out the entire feed from the banjo bolt --> turbo. The new sender did the trick, I now get good pressure readings (around 4bar when fully warm, normal 3krpm, and 5bar at cold, even warm idle drops to a minimum of 2). The problem --> When cold, for the first 5/10 mins of driving, the guage occasionally dips right down then returns to its proper position. Im beginning to suspect that pockets of air are being pumped into the turbo feed when the oil is cold and thick? Either that or I have an electrical problem that dissapears when the engine warms up a bit. Luckily I dont use any boost anyway for the first 15 mins, but i'd still like to know whats going on. The turbo is noisey (louder whine than others ive had). Just for referernce, the oil is clean and fresh, 0-40w (although the same thing occured with 10-40w as I tried changing to a thinner cold grade to cure this problem at first), the filter is also new. I havnt however, cleaned out the oil return pipe from turbo-sump, is it worth me looking here? Cheers Answer: you should spend £50 and get an aftermarket one. you blatently have a wiring problem- either in the wire to the dash or actually in the dash itself. also do yourself a favour and ditch the 0-40w oil, else you will have problems. 10w40 is ok, but the best i and a few others have found it 10w60, but its expensive. |
| ID: 5543 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: toe in/out Question: hi wiz any ideas what the toe setting is for a fast road setup on a five Answer: no idea mate. every kwikfit in the land should be able to tell you how much toe in/out it should have for normal running. hell, i do believe haynes also tells you! |
| ID: 5544 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cold Starts, Sticky Starter Motors, and Blowing Downpipes. Question: Hi first off I apologise for yet another LONG question, but im only trying to include all the details When the car is stone cold, choke on, the engine starts very quickly, but the dies again (after 1second). This happens every time. It will always starts and be fine the second time around. I just cant figure it out, ive changed all the leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor, even coated the plug threads in damp start (anti water-ingress) gunky stuff. The engine is completely standard, so are all of these components. I have also cleaned and overhauled the carb. Its all really clean. I though for some time the dizzy cap was becoming damp, but I also brought a new plastic seal and covered the area in anti-damp start... Still the same thing. Hot starts are fine. The important point is that the car always starts, well and quickly, but for some reason it dies again, just the first time when stone cold (I have experiment with different levels of choke and throttle, to no avail). I am aware my downpipe blows at the flexible joint, could this leak cause poor cold starts? Backpressure (although my books tell me this isnt requied on a 4-stroke, expesically with the turbo obsruction...). The only other problem that I am aware of is the starter sometimes continues to turn after the key has been let off, for now I have put this down to wiring, although I am happy to replace the unit if I think its worth the money for a new one Any thoughts are greatly appreciated and you can be sure i'll give what you suggest a try! Have a god New year P.S - My suspisions still lie on the ignition system, im convinced water gets in but cant seem to stop it, all sparks are strong and the king lead it new and genuine. Cheers. Answer: if the starter motor keeps turning whilst still engaged with the flywheel then its a sticky solenoid. remove the starter, undo the two 7mm bolts that hold the solenoid on, and clean everything thoroughly!- regrease and that should sort that! dont worry about the blowing downpipe. its just annoying. as for the choke thing.... you need to adjust a few things. when you pull the choke cable two things happen..1) the choke flap closes 2)the throttle plate is opened slightly.(acclerator is pressed slightly). you need to unscrew the black plastic screw that the choke 'cam' plate presses onto when you pull the choke lever. only need to undo it a tiny bit. what this does is to open the throttle more. you wont then have to pull the choke cable as much.... and this should let more air into the engine, which i suspect is why the car is dying. |
| ID: 5545 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bhp Question: to question 5540 i have a k-tec cam dont know the size and a ktr350 rollerbearing turbo from k -tec Answer: its should make 200bhp at 20psi approximately. |