| ID: 5483 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: will it still dump? Question: ive been reading some of the questions people have been giving u and the answers u give them (what would we do without ur help) one of the questions was about someone fitting a pipercross viper induction kit and there dump valve stoped working i want a viper kit as ive heard its the best for the gtt will my dvalve still work u suggested smaller vacuum hose will the dump valve still be as loud and were can i get 3mm blue hose as most places only sell 4or6mm or will my dvalve still work with 4 mm hose i have on cheers bud Answer: get 2.5 or 3mm nylon hose from RS components its about £15 for 30ft and you can use it for all vacuum related stuff. just use abit of silicone tube on the end of it......try it with the 4mm hose first though, i bet it will work. |
| ID: 5485 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: where does it go? Question: this is going to make me sound really stupid but i recently bought a small breather filter from ktec it didnt come with any instructions and im new to this car game so i dont have a clue were it goes could u tell me please mr wizard thanku Answer: See that pipe that plugs into the air-filter/telephone hose - Pull said pipe out and pop the breather filter on there. Don't forget to cover the now vacant hole on the telephone hose. |
| ID: 5487 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: should i or shouldnt i Question: hello again i bet ur fed up with me asking u all these questions by now i just want to learn as much as i can about the r5 gtt i recently bought. do u think fitting the forge fmic is a wise choice ive been doing more reading and there loads of people saying its a bad idea.. carb freeze , and glued fins ,just as good as some normal alloy ic, what do u think please help i want a really good fast reliable car ill be running about 20psi is it woth getting the forge ??? cheers bud Answer: You've read the comments of people who have had experience of that intercooler, so I'd be inclined to go with the majority, as they all can't be lying...can they ![]() |
| ID: 5489 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dumpvalve? Question: hi wizzard, my dumpvalve on my car only just dumps at low boost anything after 10 psi and its sound like a fart, its not that loud when it dumps anyway i checked the diaphram seems ok no holes, what else could it be, cos i bought it on the car allready and thought it might just be a crappy 1, thank you Answer: Either bin it, fit a stronger spring, or find a dump valve that can release air more efficiently. |
| ID: 5490 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: the feckin things pi*sin me off! Question: alright wiz! ive got a problem!(bet you never guessed that) on my passanger side wheel the inside of the tyre tread has compleatly worn down, when the steering wheel is straight the passanger side front wheel seems to stick out more than the drivers side?? say if you are looking at the wheel from the front, the drivers side wheel protrudes about half an inch were as the passanger side about an inch and a half!! ive had the tracking done and this isnt the issue ive got 16"" wheels 7"" wide with 195/40/16 tyres, the car is on coilovers and is lowered around 35/40mm and ive also got a strange squek when pulling away from the lights that seems to be suspention related comeing from the passanger side?? whats the best way of diagnosing the issue with out just replacing parts at random to see if it solves it? p.s what a novle *lol* Answer: Open the bonnet and whip off the plastic disc that covers the suspension turrets - If both sides have the same colour metal top plate, there's ya problem (one side should be black, the other side zinc coloured). |
| ID: 5491 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: COUNTRY ENGINEERING Question: I am buying an hign spec engine that has been re- built by a company called Country Engineering have u ever heard of them and r they any good. cheers, michelle Answer: Courtney I've heard of (big in the Vauxhall world) but not Country Engineering? Put a thread on the boards and see if anyone can shine a bit of light on them. Just hope they haven't used agricultural parts in the rebuild ![]() |
| ID: 5492 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Red hot manifold 3 Question: It's a grp. A carb from k-tec Answer: No wonder it's running lean! With a larger venturi, you should be running a larger main jet to compensate for the slower air-flow speed through the venturi; ie, there'll be less 'suck/pull' present on the fuel from the emulsion tube. Most of the tuners over here fit a 150 (1.5mm) main jet with their larger venturi carb's. You might find that too big for running-in purposes, so try a 130/135 main jet and see how you get on. |
| ID: 5493 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost Question: hi wiz, just a quick question, when my car comes on boost it hits 16psi, then when you hit just over 4k it boosts again to 20 psi, just wondering what you think about it, Cheers Ben Answer: sounds like an actuator related problem. how thick is the tubing to the bleed valve? - is the waste tube from the bleed valve blocked at all? |
| ID: 5494 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: vnt or ktec rollerbearing Question: i was just wanting to know what is the vnt turbo were do you get them from phone number if pos and is it better than ktec s roller bearing turbo ive got about a grand to spend on one i use the car for road but next year would like to try santa pod i have plenty of after market parts to handle boost cooling like big intercooler and water injection cheers Answer: where do you want the boost to come in? the vnt will give you big boost low down, but its still untested in the longevity stakes. whereas ktec's turbos have been run for a while. if you were to get a vnt i would definately recommend an aftermarket oil cooler, as its oil cooled and not water cooled. |
| ID: 5495 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cup mod Question: alrite mate i have a few questions for ya, what does the cup mod do to my car and if i do it will it cause any damage to my engine? is it worth doing and is there any thing i should change on my car before i do it? Cheers Boultby ![]() Answer: please read ![]() http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=141 |
| ID: 5496 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: the feckin things pis*in me off 2 Question: hi wiz, checked the top mounts and one is zinc colored and the other one black, the thing is mate it hasnt always been like this, ive only noticed it in the last week or so but by the look of the tyre its been like this for a while, i have dinged the wheel around 2 years ago and had to replace the coilovers due to the fact that i bent one! but the wheel is in more or less the same positon as last time the top or the wheel is leaning in and rubbing on the coilover much more so than the other side???? i know its hard to visualise what i am discribing! any more thoughts would be greatly appreciated ohh wise one!!!!! Answer: if you have replaced the coil over and the inside of the wheel is still touching the coilover, then you have bent the hub. how do i know....well i wonder ![]() i had one that had exactly the same problem, one side on the car, the top of the wheel lent inwards loads! couldnt figure it out...but think about this.... the hub is bolted to the coilover the wheel is bolted to the hub, so these things cannot move in relation to each other!- so if you have replaced one bit and its still bent, then you must have bent the hub! i changed my entire hub and things were normal again
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| ID: 5497 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: group N carb? Question: Hey Wizard, I just came across an ad for a group N carburettor... and I've never heard of it. I only know of the group A carb. This guy says it's a carb with a modified idle jet and a larger main jet. Does it even exist and if yes, will it amount to a greater performance? I have a Green open air filter and 18 psi turbo pressure. Thanks in advance! Answer: dont get yer hopes up. you can do that stuff to your standard carb. whatsize is the main jet? etc etc. some people try to pass off grp N grp A,B,C Z as special stuff when its not. |
| ID: 5498 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rubbing Question: alright wizard i took my front bumper off tday to replace with new one and noticed the tyre on the drivers side is worn really bad on the top edge on the inside i didnt notice it before the car has standard suspension please help Answer: check to see that the hub or suspension isnt bent.... does it camber in more than the passenger side? |
| ID: 5499 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: Morning, still trying to sort out my over fuelling problem. Do you know what pressure the standard fuel pump, pumps at ? Only i've got a different one from my bro's shop on and he reckons it pumps at bout 30p.s.i. Is this too much and is there a pressure regulator anywhere on the phase two's. Cheers Answer: Last question first, yep, the pressure regulator is underneath the brake servo, near the rear of the subframe, inside of the offside wheel. Follow the reg's boost reference pipe from the carb elbow downwards, and you'll find the regulator. Std ph2 fuel pump should be good for about 60 litres/per hour @ 2.5bar, so the one your bro has flogged you is worse than standard! ![]() |
| ID: 5500 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb Question: hello there, could you tell me if the inside of my carb should be black, i took off the carb top yesterday and its all black inside,i put my finger in and it seems to be like soot or something. Also when i floor it the car backfires and jerks all over the shop untill you take your foot off.Any ideas?cheers Answer: Nope it shouldn't be black. With the carb top off, start the engine, peer down the carb, and see if you can see any fuel dripping onto the throttle plate? If no, rev the engine, then see if any fuel pools onto the throttle plate (exclude any that comes from the accelerator pump jet/'arm', as this is normal...unless fuel is leaking out from the base of said arm and travelling along the arm's channel into the venturi that way - That's not normal!). If yes to either of those scenarios, report back. If no, check the jet sizes (idle jet, air corrector, and main jet) and report back. Failing all that, stick another known working carb on your engine and see how it then performs. |
| ID: 5501 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lean On High Revs Question: Changed my main jet to 135 but air corrector is still standard. At max speed my cars stops at around 190 km/h and 5200rpm. I'we checked and changed air filter. Is it because of weak fuel pump? How can I know the fuel pump isn't good? thanks :-) Answer: It could well be the fuel pump, or a partially blocked fuel filter, or a partially occluded needle valve in the carb, or a leak in the pressure regulator boost reference pipe, or... First things first, lets eliminate the fuel supply as such: Grab a fuel pressure gauge that reads upto 3bar - 'T' it into the fuel pipe that goes to the carb inlet. Start the engine and let it idle. The gauge should read 4-5psi or there-abouts. Make a note of the actual figure, and go for a drive. When it gets to 5200rpm (or whenever it max's out) check the fuel pressure gauge and see what it reads now - It should be boost pressure (at carb top) + whatever the fuel pressure was at idle (circa 4-5psi); eg, if you're running 15psi at the carb top, the fuel pressure at full boost should be circa 20psi. If all checks out ok, time to investigate further into the carb, or possible exhaust restrictions. If the fuel pressure is low, change the filter and/or replace the fuel pump (assuming you're getting a good supply & earth to the pump, and that the hoses to/from the pump aren't blocked/kinked). |
| ID: 5502 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: where s my fuel going? Question: hi wizzard, sometimes i am getting a strong smell of petrol in my car,also it is very very juicy!! also every so often on idle it smokes black smoke, and my exhaust are permently black and sooty, sounds like some fueling prob, where would be best place to start? thanks ps:-around my carb there is always a wet patch which i think is petrol? Answer: maybe its time you got a carb rebuild kit, and cleaned your carb out thoroughly. then you would at least have a decent carb (hopefully). this may cure the problem. |
| ID: 5503 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: choking Question: hello boss just wondering if you would have any idea why my baby chokes and splutters when i gun it and also she is worse than normal at starting in the morning hope you can help thank you very much iain Answer: check you aint got adodgy dizzy cap and rotor. at this time of year water condenses in them and they get oxidised, which can cause tracking inside them. hence spluttering up the rev range. |
| ID: 5504 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: charge pipe Question: is it normal to have oil the the charge pipe and come out of the dump valve as i think somthing may be wrong,it dont come out alot but will get blown out Answer: you need to re arrange the breather system so that the breather pipe that pushes into the telephone hose (turbo inlet) has a small oil breather filter on, and block the resulting hole up in the 'U' shaped telephone hose. the breather system is pumping oily vapour into the turbo inlet, this then comes out of the dump valve. maybe also worth while taking the intercooler off and turning it upside down for 1/2 hr to get the oil out of it!- clean it with white spirit! |
| ID: 5505 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: raider Question: WHATS THE DIFFRANCE BETWEEN A RAIDER AND A STANDARD 5,AND IS MINE A PHASE ONE OR TWO? ITS ON AN F PLATE Answer: f plate is phase 2. raider is same as standard 5 except its blue,had blue painted wheels, blue ticks on seats, blue badge on door and a 'raider' sticker on the back window! some say that there were certain cam differences, but i remain sceptical. |
| ID: 5506 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dizzy drive Question: hi there i spoke to you about a problem it was no 5473 i had changed the oil pump when i put new rings in i checked the dizzy drive like you sugested and when no 1 piston is at top the dizzy drive was 180 out i mean the big D on the top was away from the fly wheel and to the haynes thats wrong so i turned it so no 1 piston was at top and the big D was towards the fly wheel but the engine would not start i tried it a tooth either way as well still would not start so i turned it back to 180 out the big D the wrong way from the fly wheel and the engine starts idels but when reved its all lumpy and either cuts out or back fires can you please help its driving me mad iv not touched the timing chaine but do you think this could be the problem Answer: sounds like you got the leads wrong too. |
| ID: 5507 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel/boost Question: hi wiz another problem.when i start my car it starts no prob then after driving for a while i will try and start it again and it stuggles but its not because it is hot, i can smell fuel strong tho and when it does start itl be rough until i rev it up,any ideas.also any solutions to keep the pipe on the turbo exhaust elbow in becasue mine keeps blowing out and making me loose psi thanks again paul Answer: do the cup mod, and ditch the pipe to the elbow. sounds like you are flooding the engine. which leads me to ask the question....what carb have you got on it? |
| ID: 5508 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel/boost 2 Question: havnt a clue what carb is on not done anything to engine since i bought it.could it be a group a because i did get a strapped intercooler with car has previous owner said he was going to run more psi but never did it,so just wondering if anything has been done to carb ready for when he was going to run hi boost thanks paul Answer: unlikely. you would need to take the carb apart and check main jet and air corrector jet. also check the venturi to see if its been bored out. standard carb is good for 14psi anyway.... |
| ID: 5509 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb upgrade Question: hi wiz, hows things? i need to overhaul my carb, if i upgrade the main jet and air restrictor and so on wil it run my standard 5, or will it overfuel or something. ill be modifying the rest of the engine in spring time. cheers fella. Answer: keep it as standard but put a 130main jet in. this will be good for 18psi. |
| ID: 5510 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel leaking + Electrical trickery! Question: Hi Wiz Finally my cars on the road , just wanna say thnx for all your help ![]() Just got little probs to fix now, ( apart from the tuning but im not doin that myself lol ) First one is when i fill my car up at the petrol station, every other car ive had, the petrol pump just clicks off when the tank is full but when the 5 is gettin full petrol pours out of a pipe that hangs down underneath the skirts right under the filler cap? any ideas on what i can do? Second question is that when i turn my lights or heaters on ( anything that uses alot of electric really ) the revs on my car go down for some reason? is that ok or is there a prob? Thnx Jay ![]() Answer: alot of 5's have the rev drop problem, and im no auto electrician, and i could find the cure. they do say that extra earths from the engine to the alternator etc etc do help. as for the leaking fuel problem...are you sure it aint dribbling from the side of the tank?- the classic moulding crack problem? |
| ID: 5511 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: whats this for???? Question: alright wizzard hows u only me again. on my samco boost hose the one that joins the intercooler to the carb, just after the carb when the pipe turns right after the straight theres another pipe that joins on to the boost hose what is this for ? . ive been looking at pictures and cars that have fmic and i cant see this pipe anywere, im getting the forge fmic next week and i dont know whats going on please help cheers mate Answer: block it off. on standard cars it connects to a solenoid that allows air to be blown through the hoses by the antiperc fan. |
| ID: 5512 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: door pin Question: hi whizz its been awile lol right after some time cuts and grazes we got the door pins out but there is still a little knock what do you sugest to sort this out many thanks youve been a great help Answer: knock?- a creeking knock is most likely a dry door stop.regrease it, and it should go away? |
| ID: 5513 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pressure regulator Question: Alrite, do you know if the fuel pressure regulator has any adjustment to it [ so i can turn it down. ] Or is it just a case of it either working or not ? Also any idea how much a new 1 will be ? Thanks Answer: check demon tweeks and get your self an adjustable one. about £50. the standard aint adjustable....i think the metro turbo one was...
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| ID: 5514 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smokin Question: i have had engine stripped & checked breather pipes cleaned &turbo changed ! when i drive anything above 2500rpm its smokin like f*** oil doesnt seem to be comin through turbo or at least looks that way any ideas as to why ? Answer: maybe you have got the piston rings on upside down. if you take the turbo off, do the blades at the back look wet?- yes?- turbo gone. does the manifold, where the turbo bolts on? yes- engine fecked.clue here could be stripped engine...bits of metal go round block and go through turbo.. this fecks it |
| ID: 5515 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Broken piston ring Question: alrite mate i had my engine rebuilt 1500 miles ago and a piston ring has snapped in the chamber on the o/s of my engine it has wreked my new liner as well which is gutting, i went to the guy who rebuilt it and he is trying to blame the turbo for doing it. the turbo was going and it was putting oil into the engine (so i was told by the bloke) so i put an new turbo on the car but there was still oil there so i took the head off and there where was 4 deep scores down the liner it looked like the ring had snapped in two places direcltley opposite each other. can u tell me if this is caused by bad workmanship or the turbo???? cheers kris Answer: i can't tell you to be honest. what i do know, as ive done it myself is that if you dont close the piston ring compressor down enough when you tap the piston into the liner, the ring gets caught and can snap. unusual that its snapped in 2 places though. the turbo will not cause you to snap the ring. had the ring DEFINATELY snapped in two places? sounds more like the gudgeon pins had moved to me? |