| ID: 5225 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sunroof removal Question: my car is in for a respray this weekend and the sprayer would prefer to have the sunroof removed as hes a perfectionist. how do i remove the sunroof? ive removed the glass, brackets and clips and all im left with is 6 screws that are rounded off.... Answer: some would suggest welding summat onto it, id suggest wd40 and an impact wrench. besides that you may have to drill it out. |
| ID: 5226 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost gauge fiiting Question: Hi mate where is the best place to connect the boost gauge pipes to get the best reading. Answer: you need to 't' into the pipe that goes from the bottom of the carb to the ignition unit. there is actaully a plastic straight bit that sits in the pipe just before it dissapears into the bulkhead, split it there and add a 't' piece. |
| ID: 5228 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: blown another liner Question: blown another liner racing my mates gsx, third time always no.4 , running 25psi uprated rad, intercooler, turbo, cam,head set and carb. new standard pistons and liners just keep cracking. wot uprated liners and pistons would u recommend? Answer: I reckon you should start looking into the reason why the liners are failing before potentially wasting money on alternatives! Stds are good upto 30psi, if not more, so you shouldn't be having any worries at 25psi, especially if they're new items and not 100k miles (for example) items in situ. Start with checking what the fuelling is like @ full boost. Is the vacuum capsule/aei retarding the ignition sufficiently when on boost? Are you running an over-skimmed head/high compression? If you do still want to go uprated, then forged pistons and steel liners would be the way to go, but they're not indestructible either. You have been warned! |
| ID: 5229 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Std turbo Question: When does the std turbo kick in?? Answer: depends whether you mean full boost or when boost starts to build up.... |
| ID: 5230 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: LINERS Question: I HAVE JUST BLOWN MY HEAD GASKET OH WELL! WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IS HOW HAVE I MOVED THE LINERS I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT IS BECAUSE YOU SHOULD NOT RUN TO MUCH BOOST ON STANDARD PISTONS AND LINERS BUT I ONLY RUN JUST OVER 16 PSI AT THE MANIFOLD WHEN IM REALLY GOING FOR IT SUCH AS POD IS THIS A NO NO OR OK SOMETIMES Answer: you are probably not running enuff fuel, which is why you blown the gasket. you probably aint moved the liners, you will have just cracked the headgasket. standard liners will take upto 230bhp at least, which equates to around 21psi on well set up cars with big mods. with a standard carburettor 16psi could be enuff to blow it up, unless you sort your jets out. |
| ID: 5231 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strapped and Flowed Question: Hi wizard, I'm just getting into this mod lark!! can you explain what ""Strapped and flowed"" is and can i Do it ,I have just done the ""Cup Mod"" and turned the boost up will stapping and flowing help as well Thanks Answer: strapping and flowing the intercooler involves peeling back the metal tabs that hold the plastic top of the intercooler on. then removing the top, sawing off the thermostat that controls the internal flap, then with a small screw wedge the flap in its open position, and make sure its well sealed!!! then seal the top back on, and crimp the metal tabs back over. then get a large jubilee clip or 3 (from B&Q - two packs of air condition ducting jubilee clips) and then round the outer perimenter of the intercooler tighten up the jubilee clips so it keeps the ends on tight. this has been proven to run upto 25psi if you do it correctly. if in doubt use alot of sealant....you cannot put too much on!!! |
| ID: 5232 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb enrichment circuits? Question: Hi Wiz, can you tell me if you know anyone who can precisely adjust the enrichment circuits to provide decent fuel to the engine no matter how hard you drive??? I can remember someone saying to me that his mate could adjust them, but i've lost his number. Cheers mate. Answer: depends what boost you want to run. any of the tuners can assist, either that ask your area rep, as they are bound to know soemone. |
| ID: 5233 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: std turbo no.2 Question: When the boost starts to build up and when it hits full boost, and where it pulls to on rev guage?? Answer: It should start to spool-up under 2k rpm, hit full boost just after 2k rpm (2.5k rpm at the most), and starts running out of puff around 6k rpm. Rough approximations. Don't let it worry you too much though, life's too short! |
| ID: 5234 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Skeete Fog Lamps Question: Hi mate, Im fitting my Skeete bumper next week and i need to know what fog lamps go in the Skeete bumper. Ive got a pair but one is smashed? A replacement glass will be better if poss? Cheers Adam Answer: what part numbers are printed on the rear of the unit? also what manufacturer is printed on the glass? - Hella or CIBIE?? |
| ID: 5235 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Remote arm and dis arm of alarm and remote locking Question: hi i poped the fuse for my indicators last nite ifound the problema loose bulb holder on the front indicator. i replaced the fuse and sorted the holder but as of this now my remote central locking wont work which also arms and disarms my alarm. when it work the alarm was tied into the indicators because they used to flash on arm and disarm. Could a fuse in this system have gone as wellif so where do i lookfor it ive looked at all the fusesin the fuse box and allare fine. Hope some1 can help thanks dany Answer: Yep, could well be an alarm fuse blown, as shorting out the indicators was one of the old tricks in bypassing alarms back in the day. Try checking the alarm's supply fuse(s). If they look ok, it might be an internal fuse that's popped, hence a trip back to the place that installed it is required...or you whip off the brain cover, sniff out the guilty suspect, and replace it yourself. |
| ID: 5236 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: hi honey this is probably the dumbest question ive ever asked you, but what oil pressure should my gauge be reading? at the minute it sits quite high up on the guage (about 6 i think), but it changes its mind while im driving. Is that normal? thanks tommy Answer: 'ello sweetheart, Yep, that's quite possibly the dumbest question EVER asked!  The std gauge isn't exactly known for its accuracy, so I wouldn't worry too much where the needle is pointing to, but needless to say, the oil pressure will decrease slightly as the oil gets hot, for the simple fact that the oil thins, hence easier flow through the gallerys, bottom-end bearings, turbo bearings, thus resulting in a slightly lower pressure drop altogether being present. This is perfectly normal  Voila, you can now rest easy at night and bag some well needed beauty sleep... |
| ID: 5237 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling fan Question: Hi wiz ive done a few checks on my r5 b4 i start the key 4 the first time in nearly 1 year i bridged the fan switch the fan worked great! but i cheched it again coz i know wot my luck is like this time it didint. I put a live feed to the fan motor and all woz ok, there is a live feed 2 1 of the fan switch wires and all the continuity is ok for the circuit fuses ok to. cheers Answer: Check the rad' fan relay (situated in front of the alternator) hasn't packed up altogether, or that you've blown the fuse (check fusebox under passenger side of dash). |
| ID: 5238 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flooding header tank Question: Hey mate... I'm still kinda new here, but I need some advice. Maybe you can/want to help me out! I have a phase 2 GTT and I've just replaced my turbo and wanted to degass the coolant system. I made sure there was enough water in the header tank, held it up and removed the bleed nipple. Water came out so I closed it again. Then I started the engine and removed the nipple again. Unfortunately, the water level in the header tank rised and eventually it flooded. When I run the engine with the bleed nipple still in place, the level remains the same, but I'm positive that there's still air in the system. How can it be that the header tank floods?? I hope you can help mate... Answer: First rule of the book, don't open the bleed nipples whilst the engine is running as this can put air back into the system! Re-bleed the system again (without starting the engine this time!), then see how you get on. Any more prob's, report back to Wizard HQ |
| ID: 5239 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: condensation on coolant pipes Question: hi wiz its matt from bristle err , i keep getting condensation on the coolant pipes , wots think it could be me baber???, i know its not the frosty mornin as it happens anytime , could it be the hor weather or am i just a bumpkin that smokes too much straw???...lol. Answer: Or it could be that one of the nearby pipes, or the pipe itself, is leaking/spraying water onto said pipe. Time to pressurise the header tank and start sniffing out any pipe/rad/connection leakages... |
| ID: 5240 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil service Question: how regular should i do a oil service is it 3k. what is the best filter and oil to use. how much oil do i need. Is there anything else i should do at the same time. Answer: 3-4k miles is a good figure. If the car is used regularly for trackdays, maybe even half that figure. You don't have to change the filter each time - Do it every other oil change. Purflex filter will do the trick - Easily available Just under 4L of oil (when also changing the filter) is required. Don't forget to replace the sump-plug washer! |
| ID: 5241 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: k-tec kombat kit Question: hi wizzy wiz wiz i got the full k-tec kombat kit but it just wont go on the car, no matter how much i threaten/swear at/bribe it. are there any body shops in birmingham that r willing to work on a 5 that u know of? i cant find any!!! thanks wizzy me old pal.... tommy Answer: Wouldn't it be better to speak to K-tec and explain the situation before paying out unnecessary money to bodge/make something fit right, which it should've in the first place. If not, drop a few of the Birmingham members a pm to see which bodyshops they recommend - Ask Sparkie for starters... |
| ID: 5242 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gearbox Question: hi wiz when i go to change to 3rd gear it makes a cruch before it gose into gear but when driving for a bit it stops what do u think cheers Answer: Could be one of several things... - Engine mounts are worn causing the engine to move excessively, hence making it harder to engage gear. - Clutch cable could've stretched, thus the plate isn't fully de-clutching. - Or more than likely, a worn 3rd gear synchro. |
| ID: 5243 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rebuild Question: hi wiz im planning on rebuilding the engine myself as i live in ireland and there is no 1 over here who wants to touch r5s i have some experience is there any manuals apart from the haynes manual to use as a guide cheers Answer: JR tuning does touch 5's.... read the haynes manual, take it apart carefully, and keep all the caps/conrods together for god's sake dont mix em up! the engine is pretty simple really. |
| ID: 5244 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Prob Part IIII - Internals + Overspill Pipe Question: Hi You were correct (dont ask me how) about my needle vavle missing the washer! Having put the washer back in, tbh it hasnt really made much difference. Miffed, I took the carb to bits again this morning, using the diagram supplied with the overhaul kit (one in a yellow/orange/red/white box) from BB I compared my setup to that on the diagram. The only difference I can spot it that; On the passenger side, there are two modules bolted on. Both with three bolts, 3 short and 3 long. The longer bolted bit, with the overspill pipe on it, has no spring between the unit and the gasket, the other one does, but my diagram shows a spring on both sides? Is this important - I Couldnt work out what the spring would do in this case, also im not sure when the overspill is actually used, the pipe is crusty and bone dry doesnt look like its ever been used! My fuel consumption is awfull by the way, and the problem is cold starting, the exhaust kicks out some soot (and water) on startup and is very lumpy, misfires etc untill warm. Once warmed up the idle speed is to high, 1200, but adjusting the speed screw to a lower speed when warm just makes cold starts worse (and deems warm dile unstable when operating fan etc). Many thanks AGAIN! Answer: thats is the problem then, you need the strong spring on the enricher unit. without it you are letting fuel get to the emulsion tube...probably equivalent of having a huge main jet at all times. the over spill pipe is a breather to the back of the diaphragm, also if this splits it should feed the petrol away from the hot manifolds. |
| ID: 5245 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo lag Question: Hi I think my turbo may be on the way out. 1)a bit of blue smoke. 2)Only boosting 2 about 13psi.Standard. 3)Its holding back.Then going. Is it new turbo time Answer: Not necessarily. 1) When are you getting this blue smoke? 2) Std boost is 6-10psi, so either the actuator has been played with, a bleed valve is inline, or the acuator diaphragm could be partially leaking/split. 3) That sounds more like a fuelling problem. When is it happening? |
| ID: 5246 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clio 172 Gear box Question: Alright Wiz The clio 172 gearbox does fit onto the 5 lump doesnt it?? think Im going to have to use one so i dont have to get a mount made up to fit the 5 box in my CLIO GTT. One thing i need to no before buying the clio box is it a mark 1 or mark 2 i want? are they both the same? Also is there much noticable change in the ratios?? If you could let me no please that would be a massive help Cheers fella stewart Answer: It will fit, but the ratios won't suit the gtt engine, especially if you've got 1/4 mile racing in mind as well. If you speak to Jon @ Torsion Tuning he'll tell you how to mount the gtt box without too much aggro. Tell him one of the Wizard's sent you, and ask if he's interested in a job here  |
| ID: 5247 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tdc mark Question: hi wiz i recently split my gearbox from the engine and after i noticed in the haynes manual that u should turn the crank shaft until the notch on it is in line with the tdc mark on the bellhouse and make a mark on the cylinder block so that determining the tdc mark again is easy. i havent turned the crank can i just put the gearbox back on and mark it cheers o knowledgeable one Answer: Don't worry about it. Just slot the gearbox back on as is and all will be fine |
| ID: 5248 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rene 5 specialist. Question: Do you know if there is a renault 5 specialist in droitwich,worcester.Called fj performance.If so cud i have a number,cus the one i have got is wrong.Thanx alot. Answer: Never heard of them, soz. Try Yellow Pages or one of the 118 companies... |
| ID: 5249 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost guage Question: i have fitted my guage where the clock goes and have put a t piece in the hose that comes out of the back of the ecu. i think. its a black box over by the passenger side near the bulk head will i get a good reading here. It reads about -10 on tick over and about 9 psi on normal boost is this right thanks. what boost can i run safe if i have a alloy intercooler full exhaust etc. Answer: That's fine and plumbed correctly. You can run a few more psi until you have to start worrying about fuelling. Keep it under 1bar and all should be good. |
| ID: 5251 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sorry forgot this Question: i got a group a carb but i dont think the jrts are right as she is running lean what jets would you recomend Answer: Define lean. Has the part-throttle/cruise/full-boost afr's been measured? If so, what values were you getting? |
| ID: 5252 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: vnt turbo in 1/4mile ? Question: what VNT turbo can be used in 1/4mile ? vnt 17 ? vnt 20 ? any idea ? Answer: Any more specs on those turbos? |
| ID: 5253 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: charging and starting Question: i have a battery charging fault. the light on dash isnt lit so i assume that the alternator is charging(it also looks recently replaced). could this be down to a bad earth strap? ie engine to chassis? would this be linked to a starting problem that i have. the solenoid engages but the starter wont turn over.or do you think that i have two separate faults. thanks wiz Answer: Yep, sounds like an earthing problem, and that would also relate to the starter not turning over. You could try running a thick wire from the negative battery terminal to a clean contact point on the engine, and see if the starter motor fires into life then. If it does, you defo know it's an earthing issue. |
| ID: 5254 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Question: Hello Wizard, Have you ever heard of the Coupé version of the R5 GTT? I recently came across an ad for rear torsions bars coming from a R5 GTT Coupé... which should have thicker torsion bars than the standard GTT. Do you know if that version even exists and if it's true about the thicker torsion bars? regards, Jan Answer: Hello Jan, Yes, the thicker versions do exist, as you rightly say, on the Coupé (or Cup, as it's known as in this country) models. These were the racing R5's that particpated in the Renault-ran/sponsored championship back in the 80's. The cars were basically GTT's but running 1bar on supplied turbos with pre-adjusted actuators, uprated DeCarbon suspension, Devil side-exit exhausts, Devil strut-braces, seam-welded chassis & shells, smaller offset wheels with Michelin slick or wet tyres, thicker torsion bars, etc etc. These parts are v rare & hard to source these days, so you should try to snap them up whenever possible...and then forward them onto me! |
| ID: 5256 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: white smoke Question: hello, please help. my radiator buggered the other day as the fan switch wire broke and the car got stupidly hot (steam shooting from the radiator). it generally went tits up and was puffing blue smoke on changing gear and wasn't boosting properly. i changed the radiator and started it up and it was running well weird and white smoke was coming out when letting off the accelerator. also there was a big puddle of water by the exhaust when trying to start it. even with the fan running it was getting unusually hot still and then started pouring white smoke. is it the head gasket? if so is the head cast iron or ali? ie. do i need to get the head skimmed first or can the gasket just be changed? any help will be much appreciated, thanks Ben. Answer: From what you've said it certainly sounds like a gasket failure, or at worst, a cracked liner. Either way, it's head off time to see what's what. The head is ali, and if it's been running that hot, chances are it might be slightly warped. Defo get it checked for true flatness anyway, and have it skimmed if needs be. |
| ID: 5257 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: white smoke Question: Hello, the other day i was giving it some beans with a mate behind me and he said when we pulled over there was a puff of white smoke as we parked up.I was thinking it was prob the turbo on its way out ( ive been running a standard turbo with bigger jets and exaust and filter at 14p.s.i for bout a year.) I spoke to my mate who owned it before me and he said when he knackerd a turbo when he had it, it wos pretty much constant thick blue/white smoke all the time. Well i've only noticed it smoking once since when i pulled up at a junction today, even then it was only a quick puff. my mate reckons it might just be the seals, wot do reckon ? also its started to run hot. Is this linked or do you think the head gasket could be on its way out and this could be causing the smoke ? Soz for the long ass question. Answer: Could well be the turbo on its last legs, but that shouldn't really effect the engine temperature... Are you losing any water from the header-tank? After booting it around, pull over, pop the bonnet, and look at the top radiator hose - Does it look swollen and/or hard to touch/squash down? Is there the dreaded mayo on the underside of the oil filler cap and dipstick? If yes to the above, the headgasket has failed. |