| ID: 5190 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Still Not Running Question: I have just read your last response, Thanks, i have Checked the Compression to tester on another car and is ok and as for no compression, it is on all 4 cylinders that i have no compression, could the timming be out, the engine is all fitted with low compression pistons, brand new linners & rings, what would the compression be on low compression pistons? Answer: No compression on all 4 cylinders? Quick test to check it's nothing internal that's failed - Lift the rockers, as to push the valves down as such, and remove the pushrods. Do this for all 8 valves, then comp' check your engine again. If you now get a reading, it could be the cam is well out of timing/position to the crank. If you still don't get a reading, it's head off time. With low comp' pistons in situ, I'd imagine the compression will be around the 120psi region, maybe a touch lower. The main thing you're looking for is that all the readings are within 10% of each other, and certainly higher than 100psi for starters. |
| ID: 5191 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Chrome gear lever surround Question: Hi , wiz long time no speak , can you tell me , demon tweeks say that a surround is no longer available for my 5 , is there one that s similiar that fits , or is there another place i can get one??? ,just thought id ask , cheers me dears , Matt in Bristle. Answer: ""Now then now then, rattle rattle, jewellery jewellery. I have a letter here from a young man in Bristol asking where he can get a bling gear lever surround for his R5 turbo. Hmmm, let's see if Jim can fix it for you..."" www.cgbmotorsport.com If they don't stock one, ask nicely, and see if they can knock you up a one-off special... |
| ID: 5194 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lower the rear Question: Hi Wisard , please can your define clearly the part were you put the spacer in to the axle to ando the tortion bar , and i want to put lower springs on the front shock how hard is it and are the front spring under preasure sorry if the question sounds vague pls explain in dummy terms thanks. Answer: the front springs are under pressure, which is why u need spring compressors. else when you undo the strut tops they will spring out, and maybe cause injury! as for lowering the rear end of the car.... i find this article helps. http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=15 |
| ID: 5195 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Sub frame Question: Hello Had my R5 Turbo tracked recently and the guy says one of my front wheels is 2-3cm behind the other (slight frontal impact I guess), is it possible to get this pulled out or is replacement subframe the way to go. Cheers Jonathan Answer: You can get it re-jigged if needs be, but then the structural strength is questionable. For the sake of a day's work, and not much money for a 2nd hand jobby, I'd say a replacement sub-frame is the way to go. |
| ID: 5197 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cup Convertion Question: Hiya Wizard, Just a quickie ,just done the cup con to my phase2 GTT the questions is in regards to the bolt that goes into the Turbo elbow i found a m12 but at 50mm in lengths ,so i shorten it with my trusty hack saw but it is still to long and doesn't go flush is this a problem .the thead goes right the way to the top and has been tighten ,please advise great one !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Answer: Take the elbow off, then wind the bolt in till tight, cut off the rest of the thread showing, re-apply elbow to turbo. |
| ID: 5198 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dumping oil Question: hey wiz-man my 5 blowing oil out of my dump valves and making a mess of my freshly rebuilt engine! it doesn't seem to smoke so i assume i'm not burning any oil and the oil breather hose to the air filter ive done away with, any ideas wise one?? Answer: Sounds like the turbo could be on its way out then. Remove the turbo-to-intercooler boost pipe, look inside, and see if it's oily - If so, excessively, there's ya problem. |
| ID: 5199 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure switch Question: Dear wizard, my oil pressure switch has gone up the spout and obviously i require a new one but renault want £95 for it! is there a cheaper alternative?? Answer: You could try GSF, or a trip to a local breakers yard/check Ebay/check Classifieds for someone breaking their car. |
| ID: 5200 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Vacuum reading rising as engine gets warmer Question: Hi Wiz, I lost all readings of vacuum on my boost guage early this week, where usually I get -14. After doing an oil change I started to get a reading of -7. By the end of the week I'm getting -14 again when I first start the car in the morning. But after 10 mins driving I'm only getting -7 and it continues to climb until I only get -2/-1? I have noticed if I start the engine and run it for a only a minute or so when I turn it off the mini filter on the breather system smokes a little. It doesn't appear to be leaking any oil out of the filter though. Any Ideas how to sort the problem? Thanks Answer: check all the vacuum hoses, including your dump valve diaphragm. |
| ID: 5201 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: what oil? Question: hey wiz, just a quick question 4 once, what oil would you reccomend for the 5 turbo, also what spark plugs?cheers man Answer: personally i would say 10w60 which is hard to get, but does have good properties when hot. failing that a good quality 10w40, maybe with some viscosity additive in, so it dont break down under excessive heat. the plugs really depend on what you are going to do with the car. usually NGK B8EVX's will do or even B8EG's in most cases. |
| ID: 5202 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: what spark plugs Question: bought a set of ngk b8ev plugs are these the ones i should be looking for the guy in the shop wasnt tha helpful Answer: yes, they are fine 
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| ID: 5203 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: leaking fuel tank Question: if got a leak in my tank thers a bit on the right side of the tank as if it should have a plug on it but hasnt ??????????? what can fix this Answer: there are alot of answers to this, my favourite is using either specialist tank sealant, or bodyfiller of some kind. several other people have used special silicone sealant. |
| ID: 5204 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo Question: hi mate, what sort of power gains would i expect from a rover tom cat turbo fitted to my r5 please let me no a.s.a.p nice one Answer: depends what boost you run on it. if you get your fuelling sorted too 180-200bhp is possible. |
| ID: 5205 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: poly bushes Question: just brought some poly bushes but having trouble fitting them the anti roll bar bushes with the split in is have ypu got any tips for fitting them cheers Answer: yeah, i stuggled for ages fitting mine. i think i ended up using a longer bolt so i could get the clamp over the bush properly 
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| ID: 5206 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Missing Breather Pipe Question: Hi, i have a problem, on the top of the inlet manifold iam missing a breather pipe its just below where the carb bolts on and comes out at a 90 degree bend from the back of the carb, you can see it from the passenger side of the engine bay. The car starts and runs but when i cover the connection it runs smother. Do you know where the missing hose connects upto? cheers Answer: yes, the pipe joins a 'T' piece, with one end going to the black pot over the water pump and the other end going to the turbo inlet ' U' shaped pipe (telephone hose) also there should be a 1.7mm restrictor in it.... |
| ID: 5207 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: misfiring/fluctuating boost. Question: hey wiz, recently had a stage 5 and a grp a carb fitted up with in car boost and spider valve, has been working great until now.today when the boost came on the car was spluttering on and off boost and was very inconsistant like a misfiring feeling with the turbo boosting on and off.now even when stationary the car splutters and misfires when the revs are taken up.any ideas?could this be the dizzy and rotor?the leads are nearly new and are uprated, please please please help. thanks in advance Answer: check your timing sensor lead hasn't melted. |
| ID: 5208 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking Question: yo wiz when i start up ma 5 and let it heat up there is black smoke coming out the exhaust and it leaves a black stain on the ground,it smokes just after a gear change aswell,wot do u think it will be ? cheers Answer: Your carb is over-fuelling - Get the idle c.o/mixture checked at a local garage (it should be around 1.5%), and also check the idle jet (it should be 0.45mm). |
| ID: 5209 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: intermitant running Question: Hi Wiz, Thanks for your help on my last question, little hose from water pump to manifold had split and was pi**ing water everywhere....new hose no more overheating....result Onto the next... Im experiencing intermitant running. One moment it will pull hard to the red line, next moment its flat.... turbo boosts to the same pressure regardless. It doesn't miss just feels like the brakes are on! Then 30 seconds later it will be fine again. The plugs are biscuit colour and I checked the hose to the fuel reg, but this seems ok. I also fitted a new fuel filter too. Could it be my fuel pump?? As always thanks in advance! ta J Answer: Could be the pump, or wiring to the pump. Could be a dodgy tdc sensor/lead, or that the fuel pump relay contacts aren't making a full/good contact. Also worth checking is the needle valve in the carb, the float assembly, and the tiny filter that sits inside the carb inlet port. If all those check out ok, grab a fuel pressure gauge, 'T' it into the carb inlet line, go for a drive and check to see that you're getting approx 4psi more fuel pressure than boost pressure at all times; ie, at idle there should be circa 4psi. At full boost, say you're running 20psi for example, there should be 24psi ish fuel pressure. You sure it isn't the brakes intermittently sticking? |
| ID: 5210 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking Question: me again,you set that am over fuelling how does it go like that is it because am not running it a high enough boostas it is turned down to about 12 psi when it can handle 32psi Answer: Did you try what was suggested last time? |
| ID: 5211 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear brakes Question: I have been servicing and cleaning up the brakes lately and noticed on the rearbrakes, there are rubber caps that cover the mechanism inside, both are f****d and you can see the internals of the brake caliper, thatr should have failed the mot shouldn't it have?? Also can you still get these rubber things?? Answer: They're rubber protectors to stop dirt & muck getting onto the caliper rod/shafts. I don't think they'd cause an mot failure, but if you're that worried, they should be available as a spare part on their own. |
| ID: 5212 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fan not working Question: Hi Wiz My fan has stopped working. Can you tell me the step by step way of finding the fault. btw - the connections at the fan and alternator are fine, i dont have a thermostat and thats about all i can think of. Answer: Assuming that the fan itself hasn't seized, and that all connections are good, bridge the wires that go to the rad' fan switch - If the fan now spins, replace the defective rad' fan switch. If the fan doesn't spin, replace the relay which sits on the plastic cowling/ducting in front of the alternator. If it still doesn't work, report back to Wizard HQ |
| ID: 5213 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fan not working Question: Thanks Wiz to bridge the fan wiring - can u tell me exactly what to do please? thanks Answer: Pull the 2 wires off the rad' fan switch and join them together - Use a piece of wire. If you've got the o.e connector on there, again use a piece of wire to bridge/join the connectors on the plug. |
| ID: 5214 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fan not working Question: Hi Wiz I did what u advised and bridged the switch wires and the fan didnt work (i heard the relay clicking) so the switch is faulty. Next problem - how do i remove the rad switch? It looks awkward and large so not sure how it will be easiest and what tool i shall need? Also - will water spill out of the switch hole when I remove it? Answer: Double check that relay, as unless the fan motor has seized, it should've spun when you bridged the wires, regardless of the switch being faulty or not. If you're sure the relay is ok, get a voltmeter and check for 12v and a good earth (when the relay is energised/switch wires bridged) on the fan plug connection. If ok, make sure a good connection/contact is being made when you plug the fan connector back in. If that's ok, and assuming the wiring is all ok (ie, the current isn't dropping off under load), then suspect the fan motor/bushes/contacts. You could alternatively borrow/try another fan, just to eliminate the fan itself or the plug connection being faulty. If it works, you defo know its your fan/connection at fault. If it still doesn't work, it must be a wiring problem/bad earth, etc (assuming the rad fan switch and relay are ok). |
| ID: 5216 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PART NUMBER Question: COULD YOU TELL ME THE GSF PART NUMBER FOR THE UPRATED FUEL PUMP PLEASE Answer: R18366A |
| ID: 5217 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: t3/t4 Question: ay up. iv got a t3/t4 turbo. its got a t3 exhaust with a t4 compressor. what would be best to do keep the t4 compressor n change the exhaust bit for a different turbo?? cheers Answer: Depending on the a.r of the exhaust housing (ie, preferably a low value/small a.r), it might be worth keeping it in situ, welding a T2/T25 flange onto the T3 outlet (so that it'll now bolt up to the manifold), slap it on and see how it goes. Chances are though it'll take an eternity to spool-up and resultantly be v laggy through gear changes; ie, the blower is simply too big for the application. Stick to T25 back ends and T3 (or T28 as some call them) front ends. |
| ID: 5218 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil Question: Hi wiz. Which oil would you recommend me to use. My engine is BB's yellow engine package. there are various choices and I am a bit confused right now. please help me. Answer: The $64,000 question! Some people run Mobil 1 motorsport 10/60, some run valvoline 5/50, some run Magnetec, some run local motor factors cheapy oil. To be honest, I wouldn't dwell on it too much and run with what you think is best/suits your wallet/that you've been running in the past. |
| ID: 5219 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dumping oil Question: Hi wiz Ive read the other question about oil coming out of the D.V, ive seen a bit of oil coming out of mine (but till now i just thought it was some sort of lubrication for the D.V itself) , its not spraying out but after a good run, you can see oil around the openings of the D.V + for some reason when the car is cold and i rev when standing the D.V will make a sound but when hot and i rev when standing it dosent really sound, ive checked the pipes and there is a bit of oil in them, its not like i can pour oil out but if i stick my finger in its black when i look at it? But the car has no smoke or oil coming from the exhaust, is my turbo fooked or am i just being paranoid? Thanx Wiz Jay Answer: Both! Seriously though, there shouldn't be any trace of oil in the boost pipes. The only exception to that is if you're still running the o.e breather setup, whereby the breather exhaust is plumbed back into the air-filter inlet (telephone) pipe. If that's the case, remove the pipe and stick a breather filter on it, clean your boost pipes, then see how you get on. If you still get oil present, the turbo is more than likely on its last legs. |
| ID: 5221 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water Question: hi wiz....do you have to have water running around your turbo if so why or could you bypass it...only thing ive just brought a brand new t25 which is only oil fed is this a problem...cheers juggy Answer: Nope, it's not essential to have water running through a turbo/jacket, but you may find your oil temp' increases as a result (due to the core now running hotter; ie, no water feed present to help cool it down), and thus you may have to change the oil more regular as it *may* get blacker/thicker/lose viscosity quicker. Either way I wouldn't worry - Bridge the turbo water pipes together, bolt the blower on, and happy boosting |
| ID: 5222 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1/4 mile Question: hello mate when i ran the 1/4 mile at pod when i changed between 1 and 2 the car kind of lost power or just didnt pick up as much as it normally does. i thought i may be hanging in 1 for to long can you help?? Answer: Sounds like it could be 1 of 2 things... 1: Accelerator pump cct isn't working properly. Check the pump lever hasn't seized/is sticky, that the pump diaphragm hasn't split, and that the jet itself isn't blocked/leaking from the o-ring or the body itself. 2: Fuel supply problem. Check pump wiring, pump output, fuel filter, boost feed to fuel pressure regulator hasn't split, filter within carb inlet isn't blocked, needle valve isn't partially blocked, float isn't holed/is working. |
| ID: 5223 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cold idle/choke Carb problem (part II) Question: Hi You ma remember a while back I came to you with a problem (3 weeks or so) with my 5gtt. Car is fine once warm, and starts up ok from cold. However for the first 30 secson (cold) it has developed a problem. What used to happen when using choke was that the revs would being to rise, and I would control it to about 1.2k, and adjust the choke down untill warm. However, now, using more than a tiny bit of choke will kill the engine. Anyway, I have stripped and rebuilt the carb many times now also just today fitted new renault ht leads and dizzy cap, all this equipment is fine. Problem not solved. Last time you advised me to leave the carb in petrol all day and clean it out with a toothbrush  , this I did, and like every other time, the first time I started it up, it was great, and I belived the problem was solved, but alas it returns.I cant figure it out, its as if somthing gets blocked up after a run, and doesn un-block again untill I strip the carb again lol. Idle emissions are ok at 2%, at least they were but I have no bung in the mixture screw tube. (somtimes it looks like fuel is briddling onto the throttle plate, or at least there is a tiny pool on top gold cam across the plate, also a get a huge black stain from the tailpipe alover the floor when starting from cold) Any more ideas? - im willing to try! Thanks in advance Answer: if there is fuel dribbling onto the throttle plate when the car is idling, then you need to fit a new float chamber needle jet, as yours is letting the float chamber to fill up too much! this could be causing your probs as too much fuel with the choke shut will cause the engine too die! |
| ID: 5224 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Chroe/carb problem part III Question: Hi, Thanks for the previous reply! You said I need to replace my needle jet to prevent the float chamber filling up too high; Im not sure what you mean? I put a new accel pump 'tap' in with a new rubber ring as I thought that was leaking. What is the needle vavle? Do you mean, where the fuel pipe enteres the carb, the gasket with a needle when you un-bolt that? That is new also - but if I take it off and have a look, what am I looking for? A leak? Thanks, and sorry Answer: Needle valve - Remove the top section of the carb, turn it upside down, pull out pin that holds the plastic float in place, remove float, lift off rubber gasket, grab a 14mm socket, and the brass jet you see (little ball-bearing poking out the end of it as such) is the needle valve. Make sure the copper washer(between valve and carb top) is in situ as well. |