| ID: 5056 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil guage Question: i bought an electrical oil guage and i know u take the old sender out and put the new one in but i have the wrong adapter and dont know where i will get one.... Could i just t piece the sender into the middle of the feed pipe ? will this give me an acurate reading or does it have to be right at the block? cheers stephen Answer: i thought the electrical senders all had bags of adapters with them... one of them fitted my car! i wouldnt recommend 't' piecing into the oil line, as it would surely blow apart at high revs due to pressure! |
| ID: 5057 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti Freeze Question: Hi wizard, i've recently bought a phase 2 turbo and im starting to mod already, i've just purchased a copper core rad and am fitting it hopefully tomorrow night, i was just wondering whether or not to put anti freeze in the water, and if so how much, i've heard various tales, any help would be much appreciated Answer: put antifreeze in the water, cos it also happens to have a corrosion inhibitor present. ill give you a clue. water + cast iron block = rust. which aint good cos it can eat away your liner sealing ring and cause big probs! |
| ID: 5058 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fast then slow Question: hi wiz could you tell me why my 5 sometimes runs fast then sometimes slow it has a t3 turbo boosting at .7 bar Answer: 0.7bar is a bit low for a t3 turbo. are you sure it aint a t2?- and how do you mean - slow and fast?- is the car missfiring at all? |
| ID: 5059 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flush out Question: hello wizard, its only me again, ok i think i am gonna try flushing my rad system see if that helps with cooling. any tips? like what ratio of anti freeze to use, or any other products to keep my 5's engine as cool as i can in this heat. is it necessary to chaneg my intercooler to the 2wd cossy one i mentiond a week ago or would the standard one be able to cope if it was set up correctly Answer: the standard one is ok, as long as you dont wanna push more than 15psi through it, then its best to get it strapped. you can buy water wetter which lets the heat dissipate quicker from the water to the rad internals. the best way to flush the rad is remove the bottom water hose, but that will be hard i think!- the block drain plug is under the water pump (11mm bolt) |
| ID: 5060 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking Question: hello wizard hopefully u will be able to help,when driving the car at normal running temperatures if i drive it quite hard, then come up to a long hill and coast down it in gear and accelerate away again i am getting a large puff of smoke (oil burning). i know the turbo is good as i have used 1 off another 1 of my cars to test it and it also has no play. i have also recently replaced the valve stem oil seals. the enine has work done to it i.e steel liners uprated head, valves etc. do u think this is going to be something like piston rings or worn valve guides as i am lost. i have done a cylinder leakdown test and that was fine. any help wud be appreciated cheers andy. Answer: could be the piston rings, or the worn valve guides. you obviously know your beans, so i can't really help you. if you done the compression test then that would indicate the ring problem. but to test the valve guides its head off job! and while you are there check the cylinder bores for wear!!! top and bottom of the stroke! |
| ID: 5061 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water injection Question: hi wiz i have heard people talk about water injection is it worth doing, and at what point do i need it i.e what boost etc.? and what does removing the choke on the carb gain? Cheers Answer: water injection need only really be used over 20psi boost. the choke flap presents a restriction to the flow of air through the carb, so people remove it! |
| ID: 5062 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: group A carb Question: hi wiz just bought a 5 with a group A carb on it do you know what size jets would be fitted. and what boost would be safe to run with them. iam guessing about 1.35-1.40 main and a 0.9 corrector. ? Answer: check to see that the venturi is 27mm and not just 25mm!!! then get back to me! |
| ID: 5063 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Paint Code Question: You wouldn't happen to know, or know where I can find the paint code for Tungsten Grey my mate has been searching everywhere and I thought maybe you could help him out. Cheers Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/library/file.asp?id=1478 hav a look at the list youl see a three digit number for each colour . as your mates is grey the paint code will most prob start with a 6 . the paint code location on the car is in the alloy chassis plate on the firewall |
| ID: 5064 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: group A carb 2 Question: yer 27mm so wahat boost do you think i can run and what jets do you think cheers Answer: There isn't a definitive answer I'm afraid, so your best bet is to get the car on a set of rollers, preferably with an operator who has a good ear for detonation, then wind up the boost/jet the carb/adjust the timing accordingly till the engine's running just under the threshold of detonation with the components you've got in situ. |
| ID: 5065 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo elbow Question: alright wizz easy one for you is there ment to be a gasket of some kind between the turbo and turbo elbow? cheers mate Answer: yes, a thin metal one. hard to get hold of, most people use exhaust paste. |
| ID: 5066 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boosting problems Question: Hi Wiz.... Ok,here's the story.Me mate and i had his 5 at a rolling road today.It produced 80BHP!!! Now she has a 'new' T3 with actuator and a new rebuild. The turbo hardly spools up at all.There is a spider valve fitted with what is nearly the Cup Mod done on it.We could'nt seem to get any boost even when we went straight from the carb elbow to the actuator.We also checked the boost on the actuator and it opened nicely to 1bar.There is no 'hissing' noises to confirm a leak and the intercooler is a double GT Tuning joby.We did some jiggery pokery with all the boost hoses and adjusted the actuator slightly.It boost guage doesn't even show a vacum. aaaaaaaaaagh....Please help!!! Answer: throw me a frickin bone! if you have a t3 turbo , then its unlikely it will be spooling up properly, due to its enormous size!! what revs have you been taking the car to? a large t3 will probably take up to 6k to spool up properly! maybe even more! |
| ID: 5067 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Venturi 27 Question: Hi again and thanks for your last reply about the compression. I have made a 27 mm venturi, but the car goes really bad at idle. Does it have to have a special angle?? Like the std.. Do you have a link or picture of the air corrector jet. I run about 1,5 bar and have a 150 main jet. Thanks Peter Answer: A few things to try & improve the idle, assuming that you've cleaned out the carb, and made sure no dirt is wedged in any of the jets (in particular, the idle jet)... - Stating the obvious first, recheck the idle mixture (c.o) setting - It should be about 1.5%. - Try removing the 'torpedo' shaped tube within the idle jet, refit idle jet, and see if that helps. - You could also try drilling out the idle jet (say to 0.5mm), but in my experience I found it made no difference. However... Air corrector is located at the top of the emulsion tube. Take the carb elbow off, and look down into the choke throat. You'll see a brass jet to one side - That's the air corrector jet. As std, they're usually 1.25mm, but most people solder/drill them to 0.9 - 1mm bore. |
| ID: 5068 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boosting problems part 2!! Question: Sorry bout the long drawen out question dude!! We've had it all the way to the red line on and off the rolling road and still nothing.I didn't some fiddling tonight and took out all boost controlers and spider valve and put on the cup mod. Hooked the boost gauge up to the dumpvalve and still no boost just an increasing vacum...Will we try a smaller turbo? Answer: take the actuator pipe off, and see if you get boost then. if not then id say you either a) missing the biggest boost leak in the world b) got a turbo that is siezed/seizing. c) the turbo is still too big for the engine. d) you are pulling my plonker. |
| ID: 5069 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel filler flap Question: whats the easiest way to remove the fuel filler flap to replace how do u get at the bolts Answer: you can get to the bolts by reaching up inside the rear wheel arch. if its just the flap and the hinge is still present, then you can carefully prise it off... |
| ID: 5070 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost problem Question: i have a r5 with ktr 230 hybrid with grp a carb uprated fuel pump and lots of other mods but i only have standard strapped intercooler. the problem is when i turn boost up to 20 22 psi car seems to hold back or judder is this a fuel problem or boost problem ie intercooler also car still only on standard clutch Answer: when was the last time you changed you fuel filter or dizzy cap/ leads/rotor. what are your spark plug gaps like? increased boost will put more strain on ignition system..... |
| ID: 5071 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Siezed Compressor, can I drive it 90miles too my tools...? Question: Hi wizard! :p Boosting earlier today and all boost died. Checked for leaks etc with no success, then I realised the compressor wheels wont turn, I can just turn it with a screwdriver but too stiff to turn by finger pressure and obviously not with air pressure. Thing is my tools are 90miles away at home so I cant take turbo off etc too have a proper look at the problem. Car still runs ok, buts its difficult too start, im putting this down to exhaust gasses having trouble escaping...what do you think? Im worried that if I drive it that far the manifold will over heat perhaps causing other problems like blowing my head gasket. Not sure why it suddenly seized...I cant move the actuator at all not sure really what the problem is. One interesting thing - Car doesnt stall with my hand over the turbo air intake...(and bleed valve), which I find odd. There is deffo no prssure loss between turbo and carb I tested this with my own lungs. Thanks alot in advance  Answer: take the actuator shaft off the wastegate arm. this will allow exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo. then drive the car home.- you probably wont be able to go above 80mph. when you cover the turbo inlets and the car still runs, means that the car is probably sucking all the air out of the pipework first.... use wd40 to spray inside the turbo- i have seen this free up a sticky turbo before. |
| ID: 5073 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RE: Boosting problems 2 Question: LOL on your reply Wiz!! I think we found the problem....a nice big fecking crack,bout 6"" long on the bottom of the GTT double intercooler!!!!! The weld has split so we put a standard strapped one on she works alot better now!!! Answer: Good to hear you've found the problem. Never doubt the rtoc wizards...  |
| ID: 5074 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost Question: just got new fuel filter but everything else less than 6 mths old Answer: Check the boost feed pipe running from the carb elbow to the fuel pressure regulator (underneath brake servo/next to the subframe), and also check the pipes coming off the double T-piece on that same line for any splits/leaks etc. Could be the regulator itself at fault - Stick a 3bar, say, fuel pressure gauge inline with the carb's fuel supply/inlet, take the car for a drive, and check that you're getting approx 5psi more fuel than boost at all times; ie, if you're running 20psi boost, there should be 25psi ish fuel pressure present at the carb inlet. |
| ID: 5075 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke screen Question: hey wiz, wonder if you can help me, when idling my turbo gives ample fumes, but when its heated up 4 twenty mins or so once you rev it a couple of times it settles and then pumps heaps of white oily smoke out the back, ive done the tests for a heavy breathin engine and no oil leaks entering the turbo telephone inlet, and the head was done about 5000miles ago and aint overheatin.could this smoke simply be the turbo seals or sumthin more sinister.soz for the essay! many thanks Answer: I'd suspect the turbo is on its way out, but try this 'test' to help confirm... Remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold (you can keep the oil & water connections on the turbo, or 'bridge' them across), start the engine, and see if the oily smoke emits from the engine/exhaust manifold outlet - If it does, it's an engine problem. If there's no smoke, it's the blower. |
| ID: 5076 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bottom end Question: hi wizz.can you swap the bottom end on thr 5 gtt for the r5 1.7? or any other ? cheers Answer: Nope, to my knowledge the 1.7 series crank won't fit a c1j block, not direct swap for swap anyway. |
| ID: 5077 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Who wants to fix it????? Question: Hi Could you please give me details of anybody who carries out engine work on the good old 5 turbo in the west yorkshire region. Im struggling to find anybody (that i can trust!) who wants to change my pistons and rings. Thanx. Answer: You could try contacting your local area rep to see what he/she advises, or see if a local member or 2 will give you a hand. Tuner wise, Ian @ EuroParts, Stoke-on-Trent way, is probably your 'nearest' choice. |
| ID: 5078 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1.7L engine Question: Hello Wizard... I have 1.7L Turbo engine.. I've changed to performance pistons.. I run 18 Psi on GT28R Turbo.. What size of jets you recommend me to fit ! what to set the valve clearnce ! I have Re209 ECU, may you will suggest me to do something better to get more ignition !! Thnks, Cheers Carlos. Answer: Ooo, the ol' 'what jets should I use' gag  It's an unknown quantity my friend, as a certain jet config for one engine spec may not be good enough for another, so your best bet is to take your car to the rollers, preferably one with wideband lambda measuring, hope that the operator has a good ear for detonation, and go about jetting your carb that way. Of course, you could always efi it - That'll solve the jetting issue and certainly help out in the ignition stakes |
| ID: 5079 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flame thrower through carb Question: have just rebuilt engine tried to start but blowing back through carb have checked valve timing twice all seems to be ok but im trying to start without all pipework connected what am i doing wrong Answer: Which pipework isn't connected? Did you line up the dizzy drive/gear correctly? Are the ht leads on correctly/in the right order? |
| ID: 5080 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb flames Question: trying to start engine with elbow off carb do you mean distributor drive if so yes Answer: Ok, where is the rotor arm pointing when the flywheel notch is at 0deg/TDC? HT leads ok? |
| ID: 5081 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo timer Question: hi there i have just fitted a turbo timer to my 5 it is a greddy one i am trying to find the wire i have to cut in to for it to regiter my speed it any ideas thank you iain Answer: What type of signal does it have to be? You could tap into the coil, but obviously you'd be getting a ready even at idle. If the TT requires a signal so it knows when the car is stationary, I can only think of tapping into the speedo cable from the gearbox-dash clocks, or taking a feed off the speedo gauge itself. There must be a way round it, as several people have fitted TT's to R5's over the years. If you don't get any joy, try asking for help on the boards, as there's bound to be someone who's fitted one recently. Electrics was never a wizard's forté |
| ID: 5082 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb flames Question: engine started was the dizzie shaft thanks for the info Answer: No prob's |
| ID: 5083 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Main Beam on Headlights Question: Hi Wiz, I have a problem with my main beam. The lights work fine when they are on the side light setting or dipped beam, but when i turn the main beam on, the left hand side light goes to main beam and the right hand side light stays on the sidelight setting ?? Basically main beam doesn't work on the right hand side only the left. I have replcaed the bulbs and checked the wiring, could this be a relay problem??? Any ideas? Thanks Answer: Unlikely, as one side is working, the other isn't. Have you checked for a good earth at the headlight in question? Are you getting 12v/battery voltage on the main beam wire? |
| ID: 5085 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carpet Question: Morning, do you know if you can still buy brand spanking new carpet from renault ( or anyone else ) and if you can wot sort of price it'll be. cheers. Answer: Fairly sure you can, as I enquired with Renault about a Raider carpet not so long ago, only to be told they were £350 + vat. Ho ho ho. Perhaps the more 'common' red colour carpet could be had for cheaper, but at those type of prices, it might be worth your while trying to sniff out an automotive carpet installer (if there's such a thing) and see what they quote for a new carpet. Failing that, the odd gem comes up on Ebay/our Classifieds now & then... |
| ID: 5086 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke screen 2 Question: hey wiz, thanks for your quick reply to my last question, tried to get the turbo off and bridged like u advised but my mechanical skill has let me down!so i started the car and let idle for over half an hour, and intrestingly no smoke at all.as soon as i brought the turbo up to boost and let off the clouds of the white stuff pumped out.feckered turbo me thinks,if it was sumthin like the valve stem seals would they only go wrong at high revs?or would it happen at idle? thanks in advance o wise one Answer: More so at idle, so with that, I'd say it's a knackered blower. Have you got another one to try/test, before splashing the cash? |
| ID: 5088 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starting problems Question: Hi again. I have got a little problem with starting my car. The starter turns the spark is okay. I have checked the fuel relay and the relay next to the ecu. I cant hear the fuel pump, but i can start it manually. I have tried other relays that i am sure that works. When i start the pump manually lots of fuel come out when then fuel hose is removed. ??? Loose connection some where. Thanks wiz Answer: check your timing sensor..... |