| ID: 5024 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cossie intercooler Question: would this be an affect cooler for my 5 which will be running a t25.. or the standard forge one and pipe it up? Answer: Which cossie intercooler are you referring to? Not that it really matters, as either of them will be up to the job. The man from del monte, he say yes on this occasion. |
| ID: 5025 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: copper rad Question: is the upgraded copper rad worth the money, and is it a simple swap over? Answer: Simple swap, yes. Worth it, no, although other wizardlings may disagree. |
| ID: 5026 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing pt 2 Question: sorry wiz the cam timing ive been told the only way to do it is to take the engine out and fit a dowel rod thingy so when the engine is put back in you can adjust the timing with this dowel, any help appreciated,also i have fitted a t3 actuator to a T25and my dump valve sounds like a wet fart and when removed i have no wastegate flutter...why? Answer: Why do you need to check the cam timing? Is it a std cam, uprated cam, std vernier, adjustable vernier? Check the dump valve diaphragm - Sounds like it may have split. |
| ID: 5027 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear brake conversion Question: hi wiz, can you tell me what I will need to get to put discs on the back of my 1989 1.7 monaco. do I just need hubs and the brake bias valve or is there more. please help as I'm soon to have a 1.7 turbo in the engine bay and need discs all round. HELP ME OH WIZARD! Answer: its probably better to put the whole rear axle off a gt turbo onto it instead, as it will handle corners better 
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| ID: 5028 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 4-Way injection Question: Alright wiz Ive noticed in the files folder titled tuning there is a picture of an injection inlet manifold for a r5 gtt would you know of any one who makes these, and also would it be more of an advantage having it fitted? cheers. Answer: It's probably a custom made jobby, although the R9 Alliance (u.s model) had a 4-point injection manifold fitted as std. However, the words 'horse', 'rare', 'rocking', and 'shit' come to mind if you're gonna have a go at trying to source that manifold! Is it an advantage? Yes...maybe - Search the boards for recent various topics on efi vs. carb and draw your own conclusion. |
| ID: 5029 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water pump bolts Question: hi wiz! i've snapped 2 water pump bolts on my 5,lol, i need to drill the old 1's out but room is tight whats the best way to go about this? either remove the head off the car or undo the engine mounts and jack the engine up high enough to be able to drill them out in situ? Answer: How steady is your hand? How good are your tools? As the head is alloy as such, it's not gonna take much to ruin it should your drill slip and you start drilling into the head, rather than the bolt. I'd personally take the head off, and then see if you can heat & molegrip the bolt out that way. If not, at least you can then stick & clamp the head on a pillar-drill and drill perfectly square down onto/into the bolt that way. |
| ID: 5030 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil problems? Question: hi, just upgraded my turbo to a t28 hybrid, i changed it over during the week and used all new steel gaskets, samcos, and a braided oil pipe. i have just finnished changing the oil and went to prime the turbo but no oil was coming out of the new pipe, i took the 21mm nut out of the block to see if oil would come out now without the union and new oil pipe, but noting not even a dripper! i have had the car for just over a year now since that time it has never run, the last turbo died from oil starvation but the original oil pipe was blocked so i thought that was the problem? now im thinking theres a block in an oil gallery somewhere any ideas or have i just missed or over looked anything???? cheers paul Answer: How long did you keep it cranking over for? It's been known to take over half a minute of cold cranking (ie, engine rpm = starter motor speed, hence oil pump not exactly efficient at that point!) for oil to start flowing out of the turbo feed. Charge ya battery right up, crank the car for a good minute or so, then see if oil flow appears. If not, report back to Wizard HQ |
| ID: 5031 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Blow off. Question: Hello Wiz. In the files section there is a movie in the other stuff file which is called something with Gtt whistling like hell. My question is: can you tell what kind of blow off that is and where can I buy it? Thanks. Answer: what file is it in, please tell me the link. |
| ID: 5032 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Shower Question: Is there any way of showering at national day. Answer: several of the london crew will happily oblige in giving you a shower of the golden kind. its probably best ask the national organiser directly for further info 
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| ID: 5033 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: not boosting as it should Question: hi wiz my boost rises more like the revs do . it doesnt reach a peak boost then stay there throught the rev range . it gradually increases as the revs go up . ive played about with the actuator and it doesnt seem to help . it is still running to high a boost near the end of the rev range but power doesnt seem to kick in to about 4500-5000 revs . any ideas squire . Answer: leaking manifold gasket. or turbo is too large for the car.... |
| ID: 5034 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running Bad Question: Within the last few days has lost power, dosnt feel as lively to drive. turbo making high pitch noise but boost hasnt changed according to gauge. yesterday just starting running very rough as if off cylinder with knocking noise from engine and just keeps staling when not holding on throttle, any ideas? Answer: check all dizzy/leads connections. also check timing sensor is ok. worst case scenario, do compression check on engine. |
| ID: 5035 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb jets Question: what size of carb jets would i need when uprating the boost to 14-15 psi ive strapped the intercooler but heard new jets will be needed too, and what like a job are they to fit?and where is the best place to get them from and roughly how mutch? all advice mutch appreciated cheers ,g Answer: you can 14psi on a standard carb, but it helps if you make the main jet 1.3mm instead of 1.2mm. you need to find the carb diagram to do this, and a 1.3mm drill bit, or buy one from a tuner. the main jet is accessed by taking off the 12mm nut near the bottom of the carb facing the rocker cover. |
| ID: 5036 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: how low can i go Question: im fitting 16 inch wheels to my 5 and i have a choice between a 35mm or 50mm drop, the back seats are gone and wont be returning does that mean 50mm will be ok cheers wiz Answer: i personally think 50mm will be too much, as you will get all sorts of camber issues at the front end, a back end that will like to breakaway often! but then again i may be biased as mine is standard height
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| ID: 5037 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost gauge Question: i have just bought a 5 and it was fitted with a bleed value. how can i check wheather it has been set up right. he told me to never turn it more than half way is this right. I was thinking about buying a boost gauge would this be a good idea and is it worth get any more gauges eg temp. What one is a good one to buy and where from thanks Answer: buy a boost gauge asap. you need to find out what the carb has had done to it if anything. up until that point do not run anymore than 14psi!!!! |
| ID: 5038 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Boost control Question: Hey Wiz, I have a Blitz SBC-ID boost controller fitted but for the life of me I can't get it to control boost. I thought I had it set up wrong so have tried a bleed valve instead but this had no effect either. Any ideas why I can't control the boost, fecked actuator maybe? Answer: have you checked that the actuator bracket is attached properly to the turbo?- and that the turbo its self aint boogered? maybe you have a leak and the turbo is trying to produce boost, but cannot? |
| ID: 5039 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Boost control 2 Question: The actuator seems to be attached ok and it was connected to the turbo ok. The turbo itself seems to be working fine, it certainly shifts when it goes on boost. There doesn't seem to be any spiking and the boost doesn't shoot up or anything. Answer: Ok, so what's the problem then? *lol* If it's a constant high boost and you can't lower it, and assuming the actuator feed is all ok, check the actuator diaphragm hasn't split, or maybe the pre-load has been over-tensioned. If it's a constant low boost, the actuator spring may have lost its tension, thus can't 'clamp' the wastegate fully shut when trying to boost up. What settings are you SBC at? I know a certain wizardling who runs a Blitz SBC with no prob's... |
| ID: 5040 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Boost Control 3 Question: It's on high boost all the time,which is great fun, but I'm worried I'm going to blow my car up as it's got a standard carb. I've got hold of a T3 actuator to see if that will sort it but it won't physically fit next to the turbo with the bracket I have, doh! And it's really annoying effectively having a £300 electronic boost guage lol I'll have to PMT the T3 actuator on somehow and see if that sorts it. Answer: Did you check the actuator diaphragm (if possible), and that the arm pre-load is ok? How much boost is it actually running at? SBC settings?? |
| ID: 5041 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing pt 3 Question: i have taken my car to a rolling road tuning company and he said my dump valve is serving no purpose in the top boost hose but making a nice noise when changing gear, he then said that it should be in the hose with the air filter this way it will stop turbo lag completely and keep the turbo spinning when changing gears, he also said that i should remove my t3 actuator as the cup mod is not worth talking about,he seems ok and said he did r5 cup racing, he told me that the diaphram in the dump vavle is in good condition and sounds like a wet fart because of the cup mod please help wizard of reno as i am now completely confused on what set up the vacuum hoses should be. Answer: Does he mean put a dump-valve recirc pipe into the air-filter hose, or the dump valve itself? If he means the dump-valve itself, I suggest you find another garage to take your car to. Just because you have a T3/single port actuator, doesn't mean you have to run the cup mod - There are other ways of plumbing/feeding the actuator - Carb top, compressor housing nozzle/outlet, etc. Perhaps he'd like to explain how running the cup mod causes the dump valve to make a wet farting noise? There's only one 'setup' for the vacuum hose - The outlet on the throat of the inlet manifold; ie, below the venturi, to the aei/vacuum capsule inlet. If you're running a dump-valve, 'T' into this line and run a pipe to the top (usually) of the d.v It sounds like your mechanic is the one who's confusing the issue! He raced in the R5 cup series then!? What's his name? |
| ID: 5042 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Blow off 2 Question: The link is: http://www.rtoc.org/library/file.asp?id=19500 Answer: It isn't a blow off/dump valve. The noise you hear is caused by compressor surge...allegedly *lol* |
| ID: 5043 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Boost Control 4 Question: There's no means to open the actuator without buggering it. The most boost it's seen is 23PSI. I've set the SBC to Manual control, SET is at 15, GAIN is at 15. I've tried changing all the options in the Boost menu to no avail. The boost limiter function in the Warning menu does not cut in either. Answer: Change the actuator for a known good one, then see how you get on. If it makes no difference, report back to Wizard HQ The SBC settings seem ok, although the gain is v low - On mine, a gain of 72 equates to approx 22psi (at manifold though). Just to check, you have set the SBC for internal wastegate and not external? |
| ID: 5044 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Odd Smoking? Question: Hey wiz, you probably get asked this a lot but... when my car is ticking over there is no smoke whatsoever, when I drive it normally its fine, If I boot it on a road its ok even if its more than 1/2 way over the temp guage, But if I get on a dual carrageway or motorway and go over 70/80 mph with turbo boosting it'll be ok for a few miles then it will start blowing out loads of blue smoke, then I take my foot of the gas a little bit so there's no boost and its fine until I come to a set of traffic lights or a junction and it smokes loads of blue on tick over and smells like burnt rubber/plastic?, Ive checked for play up/down/left/right/in/out on the turbo shaft but nothing. Please help as this is frustrating and embaressing me dredfully. Thanks Wizzywig! Answer: your have a heavy breathing engine. i would take a guess and say that you are running a standard breather system. you need to block off the hole to the turbo inlet pipe (telephone hose) and then put a breather on the end of the pipe you have just taken off. or better yet feed it into a tank, as i bet this is spewing oil out of it! |
| ID: 5045 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Compression Question: Hi. Do you know what the compression is std. I have lowered the compression in the top. And I have 145-150 psi. Is that low?? Thanks Answer: depends on the cam mainly. ive seen 150-160psi on a car with standard cam, but mine are usually 120-130psi with a lumpy cam. yours is fine, you need to worry when its 75psi!!!
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| ID: 5047 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: is it just me? Question: Hiya Wiz, I took my 5 out for the first time after getting it back on the road. I was a little disopointed with the general performance. It to be slow to come on boost. Maybe its just me!! What RPM should i expect boost from a T2? Im pretty sure the vacuum advance is not working as the revs dont dip if I remove the ECU pipe whilst holding a steady 3k. Could this be making it worse? as always any help appreciated! J Answer: its along time since i had a t2 on my car, but i would guess at around 2k revs. check your vacuum unit by sucking it. should hold the vacuum and not be open circuit. |
| ID: 5048 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stalling when braking Question: Hello Wiz Sorry to trouble you again, but my car is still trying to stall when i brake and put the clutch down. Ive checked and cleaned the idle jet and also the mixture screw like you said but still no joy. The strange thing is it will only do it when moving, not when its stationary! Any other ideas ? Also are the two brass stubs in the back of the inlet manifold one way valves as i can't remember ?( 1 with the vacuum for brake servo and the other with breather pipe on ) Cheers Mark Answer: yes the two valves are one way valves!!!! make sure these aint leaking as im sure they can effect your car when braking! (loss of vacuum etc etc) |
| ID: 5049 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: welcome to tahiti Question: hello i choose steel liners but what are the recommended jets sizes for 25~27 psi and will the low comp pistons help me for high boost application thank you (there is no prob,come when you want) Answer: the low comp pistond will help you with higher boost applicvations, as would water injection if you chose to use it. most tuners carbs have a 90 air corrector and a 150 main on a 27mm venturi'd carb- and they seem to do ok. |
| ID: 5050 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: VNT turbochargers Question: HI WIZ! JUST WONDERED IF U WUD B ABLE TO FILL ME IN ON THE VNT TURBOCHARGERS? IVE HEARD PEOPLE SAY THEY ARE GOOD BUT I HAVENT GOT A CLUE WHY? R THEY DIFFERENT IN ANY WAY? WOT DO U THINK? IF U CUD GIVE ME SOME INFORMATION ON THEM THAT WOULD BE GREAT AS I HAVE TRIED LOOKING ON THE MSM WEBSITE WITH NO LUCK!! CHEERS MATE!! Answer: please turn off the cap lock! VNT's work well due to the fact they are a largish turbo charger that can spool up earlier, much in the same way a small turbo would. the other point is, the exhaust housing changes its a/R number, allowing the exhaust gas to flow more freely through the turbo and out the exhuast. i.e you get more power. |
| ID: 5051 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turning full lock Question: my 5gt is making grinding sound from the right wheel,checked brakes-there okay,there is a slight rumble when in a straight line could you help any Answer: check that your wheels aint rubbing your inner wings. |
| ID: 5052 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: MOT FAILURE? Question: Hello, do you know if you have to have rear seats in to pass MOT. I've you take them out is there anything I have to do for it to be legal? Thanks Marcus Answer: im assuming you have to take out the rear seatbelts as well. |
| ID: 5053 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel Question: I've just bought a phase 1 off my father-in-law who had from new. This car is totally mint and I am quite worried on which fuel to use. He has always run it with additive or LRP. The car has got 70,000 miles and a full service history. Is it safe to run on Optimax or Super unleaded? I know this question has been asked before but I just want to get some reassurance before I change. Has anyone had any experience of running on unleaded? Answer: everyone runs on unleaded. unless you find a bayford thrust garage and buy genuine 4 star from then.- at a high cost! i would recommend using 97 or 98 RON though. |
| ID: 5054 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gearbox on deaths door Question: hi wizz the chaps name who said he done the r5 cup racing series from the tuner i went to was called steve (dident ask his surname) but worked for stephen grenall from track and road powerformance he told me to put the dump valve it self in the air filter hose (dident say which one though) the question i have today though is the car got stuck in 2nd then it corrected itself so i think it is either the gear change rod or an internal fault what do you think if the box is buggered, would a r19 16valve box be better or an r5 diesel box for bottom end speed pls help wizz of reno Answer: There's only one air-filter hose, and for sure the dump-valve doesn't go there! If you do want a dump-valve in situ, the ideal place to locate it is as near to the carb plenum as possible. As for the gearbox, check to see that there isn't a wonky engine mount present as this can cause selection/de-selection problems. If it does need a rebuild, I'd keep the ratios as standard gtt, as Renault had it pretty much spot on from the start for all types of driving |