| ID: 4895 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel jets Question: Hello wise one Ive stripped my carb down to rebuild it and replace tha gaskete etc . I took the needle jet out , the one you can adjust but like an idiot didn't count how many turns it was already open . Do you know how many turns i should open it by to roughly set it up for standard fueling, as i will be running in a new engine ? And also the standard sizes of the other two jets as i think these have been changed at some time and would like to put these back to standard ? Hope this makes sense . Thanks Mark Answer: You can't adjust the needle valve as such, so I assume you mean the mixture screw? Wind the screw in, then back it off half a dozen or so turns. That should be good enough to get it started and idling. Now the choice is to either wait for the engine to warm up, screw the mixture screw in till it idles rough, then back it out a turn or 2, or drive to your local mot station, pass the operator some beer tokens, and ask him to set the idle c.o to 1.5% ish. Not sure what you're referring to as the 'other two jets', but taking a stab in the dark that you mean the main jet and air corrector jet, the main jet is 1.2mm as standard, and the air corrector is 1.25mm. |
| ID: 4896 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starter Relay? Question: Does the starter motor solenoid run on a relay? If it does would a jammed/stuck relay cause a permanent live to the solenoid (the white wire w/female spade on it)? Thanks Danny Answer: it could do yes.th other thing ive come across is people routing the starter wires wrongly around the gearbox instead of through it,and the wires melting together from the heat of the dowpipe... |
| ID: 4897 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleeding brakes! Question: Hi Wiz, I am having problems beeding up the brakes. The front passenger and rear drivers have bled fine but the front drivers and rear passenger dont appear to be doing anything. The front just seems to push air out the bleed nipple but no fluid even after about 45mins of brake pedel pumper, the passenger rear does not do anything no air or fluid from the nipple, I removed the brake pipe from the calliper in case the nipple was blocked but still nothing. I consulted with the trusty haynes and I seem to be doing everything correctly. Any sugestions greatly appreciated!! Jonathan Answer: check under the car to see that you aint got a hole in your pipe. there maybe a master cylinder fault also. check pipes first though 
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| ID: 4898 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rover tomcat turbo? Question: Hi wiz, there is a new rover tomcat turbo on e-bay at the moment but it states it needs some minor modiforcations to fit the 5. Would you no what would need to be done? and how? cheers dan Answer: yeah, i seen the ad, giving it the big'un!!! maybe you should ask the seller to see if they know how to do it? brief synopsis: 1)turn compressor housing 180°. 2)relocate actuator bracket on compressor housing (drill holes!) 3)keep a section of the oil feed return pipe from the rover, as the gtt one will need to clamp onto it. 4)then find a suitable adapter to fit the turbo oil feed. standard reno won't fit!- probably need a new oil feed pipe too. 5)blank off the integral dump valve on the comp housing. 6)take the studs out the manifold connection and either rethread them or find the correct nuts to fit, as renault one won't. think thats about it. |
| ID: 4899 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hesitation Question: Hi. Recently rebuilt engine and flowed head. When revved hard the engine dies instantly but if you blip the throttle then boot it it revs like a goodun! You can hear the carb gasping for air/fuel but it doesnt pick up. If i have the choke on slightly its fine. Underfueling you think? Been told that fuel pump relay in o/s rear side pocket can cause this problem. Answer: Sounds more like an accelerator pump issue to me...maybe Check the pump lever is moving freely (and that it's set correctly), then check the pump diaphragm hasn't split, and lastly check the pump jet itself isn't partially/totally blocked. Could also be air leaking in below the venturi, but do the above checks first, then report back |
| ID: 4900 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: R5 1.6D Radiator Question: Can radiator from R5 1.6D be fitted on R5 GT Turbo and are there any chanceses that it will keep water system cooler because it's capacity is larger? Answer: Yep, it's a common upgrade, but whether it makes that much difference to the cooling overall remains to be seen...  If you fit that radiator don't forget that you're gonna need a remote oil cooler as well. |
| ID: 4901 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: too hot! Question: When boosting my temp shoots right up! mainly on the motorway. Ive had a different rad put in and coolant added! The system has been checked twice and bled properly! any other ideas cause im getting a little worried! thanks Answer: It's normal for the temp to rise a bit when on boost, but when you say 'shoots right up' by how much do you mean and how quick? Was the thermostat checked for correct operation? It could also be that you're running a touch lean when on boost, thus the water around the liners would be absorbing the increase in cylinder temp's and causing a prominent rise when on boost. |
| ID: 4902 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Uprated cam 2 Question: Is it a straight swap or do i have to change anything else?? Cheers O'white one (don't any shops near you do Just For Men) Answer: for a piper 285, you need to change the valve springs as well. |
| ID: 4903 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: eat my flame kit Question: hi, i fitted http://www.eatmyflames.com kit. it works but is there a way of making this so when you press the button the spark stays on? at the moment you cant really use the kit while driving cause its not a switch you have to rev to about 5000rpm and then hit the button to produce the spark, thanks Answer: its more likely that you have to rev it to 5000rpm, so that on overrun you get excess fuel thrown down the exhaust. try doing it with the choke on, after you get up to temperature
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| ID: 4904 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 4 Sale Question: Where would i be able to advertise parts that other users may like to buy. Answer: In here... www.rtoc.org/classifieds/default.asp |
| ID: 4905 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: K-Tec Group A Carb Question: Which main jet and air corrector are supplied with K-tec's group A carb? Answer: i dont know, maybe you should ask David@ktec himself. cos im sure if i have a wild guess i may be contavening trade descriptions act or summat. hold on...ive got a little birdy whispering in my ear.... *cough cough* 150 main and 90 air corrector? or so i heard.... |
| ID: 4906 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke Question: hi wiz had loads done to my 5 trying to get it over 200bhp think its over now only just had a stage 5 head from ep so i put that on and after a week of boost it blew my turbo so i got a t25 and ran that in started boosting its all good then i boost a bit too much and its starts spluttering on tickover and when i came to a junction it didnt smoke untill i pulled out of the junction think a white cloud. it only smoked when i reved it on tickover or as i started to drive away not so much on tick over is this the head gaskit ive only just changed it when i did the head if it is will i need to skim the head again as it wasnt long ago i had it all done and its bin about 10000miles since a bottom end rebuild.. the main question is i know 5's blow up alot when over 200bhp but is it gonna be every 3-4weeks or could there be anothere problem??????????? i only have a twin core intercooler from demon tweeks is this enough as i have lots of mods and about 20psi i am getting a charge cooler soon but its £££Answer: what boost were you running when you went pop? if its over 23psi, then shame on ya kiddo! im am assuming that you have got an carb rejetted to suit the boost? you know have to ask yourself a few questions.- is the head too thin?- has it been overskimmed? - come back to me with a head depth measurement. also check to see that you dump valve can hold a vacuum. a split diaphragm or a stuck piston dont help. suspect a knackered ecu too.... check to see if the ufo shaped unit on it can hold a vacuum, else you will get alot of advance, and hence bang! |
| ID: 4908 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine to gearbox steady rod? Question: hi wizz, ok this might sound a bit daft, do you realy need your engine to gearbox steady rod? coz mine keeps working loose, even if i use a spacer and a spring washer! the thread on the gear box end is knackered so can i bin it or do i need a tap an die set to make a new thread? Answer: you didnt hear this from me.....ditch it. |
| ID: 4909 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing sensor Question: Hello wiz Taking engine out of five soon due to the clutch, The spec will be Turbo techics T25 Stage 3 cossie intercooler volvo clutch water injection sg2 dd autosports cam full exhuast Filter was hoping to run 25psi on full boost is it work bothering with a grpa carb or will just changing the jets be sufficent will i need an adjustable timiing sensor ? thanks ! Answer: The $64,000 question! Some will tell you that enlarging the venturi, and rejetting accordingly, is the way to go. Others will tell you that Renault had it right in the first place, and stick with the venturi as it is. Either way, the jets and/or enrichment circuit & jets will need sorting. You shouldn't need an adj' timing sensor if the fuelling is good, plus the fact you're running water injection, but for the sake of twatting the tdc sensor you've already got in a vice to make it adjustable (see 'articles' section), it might be worth doing, as then you can dial in a bit more advance (if you're brave!), or back off/retard the ignition, thus lowering the pcp, if you're experiencing detonation. |
| ID: 4910 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Temp sensors Question: How many sensor there are in r5? I mean sensors that shows or monitors water temp. One for the rad fan which turns on/off the fan. Another in water pomp which shows temp on temp gauge on the dashboard. What sensor indicates red lamp? Is it the same in waterpump or? Just wondering if there is any sensor in the engine block? Once my red light turned on when the temperature was only about 85-90 degrees? Thanks! Answer: Yep, they're the only 2 water sensors. The red lamp is triggered from the sensor located in the water pump. If it illuminated, and the temp' was ok, it was probably just a dodgy connection - Check the wires are crimped in tightly/fully. |
| ID: 4911 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rusty Holes Question: I have a rust spot about the size of a tennis ball 25 cm away from the fuel cap towards the front of the car can it be plated or is it to dangerous. Answer: yep it can be plated. |
| ID: 4912 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rattling Question: Hi Wiz Just a quicky. When I put my foot down to accelerate there is a rattling coming from my engine. Not a loud rattle but enough for you to hear without any music on! The garage spent over 5 hours checking it over and they came back with nothing. Could you help me out with pointers to tell the next garage? Cheers Answer: check the bellhousing cover under the car. and also the front steady bar. could be the exhaust rattling on the steering rack also. |
| ID: 4913 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil gauge Question: hi wizard my oil gauge is not workin, i changed the clocks and still nothin not is there anyway to check the sender unit, also which wire is for the oil gauge (on which plug and what pin) thanks Answer: It's probably either a dodgy connection on the actual senders (2 of them - 1 at/on the front of the sump (oil level), and 1 on the turbo oil feed pipe (oil pressure) near the sump/block), or perhaps a dodgy connection on the white multi-plug down by the nearside headlight. Cut the relevant wire connectors off, fit some new connectors, clean the sender contacts, refit, and all should be good. |
| ID: 4914 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil in airsystem Question: hi wiz i noticed a small amount of oil appearing on the inside of my bonnet . turns out it had been blown out of the dump valve . i took the boost pipes off and there seems to be a smear of oil in the pipes . where would this be coming from . the turbo is new from k-tec so i cant see how it would get in there . cheers wiz . Answer: Are you running the breather pipe into the air-filter/telephone hose? If so, your engine could be 'breathing' a tad causing the oil to get into the boost cct that way. This can be rectified by removing the breather pipe and sticking a small breather filter on it, or run the pipe to a catch tank. Don't forget to block up the now vacant hole on the air-filter/telephone hose. If you've already got the breather pipe setup like that, suspect the turbo, regardless of how new it is. |
| ID: 4915 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wont start from cold Question: I've recently put my car back together, never had a problem before but now it's not up for starting from cold. It's had new plugs, leads, rotor arm and cap and fuel filter.(Along with all the other bits on profile0 It has a good blue spark and it's getting fuel to the carb, once running and warmed it'll idle perfectly and start no problem. I have to turn it over and over for literally minutes, it doesn't sound like its firing, then it'll fire once, wont start and carry the same again. Makes no differance with choke or without. Seems worse with it on i think. After a few minutes it'll fire stronger and eventually start, although this mornin it took 20 minutes!!! If i rev it it'll try to die out and sometimes a tiny splutter or backfire. Any advice much appreciated Answer: Did you remove the dizzy gear at some point? It could be that you've slotted it back, but the tooth is one notch out, hence the rotor arm contact won't be aligned with the dizzy cap contacts. With number 1 at TDC, where does the rotor arm contact point to? Does it look on par with number 1 dizzy cap contact? When it does start, do you get a hesitation when blipping the throttle? (more noticeable when the engine's cold). If so, check the accelerator pump jet (isn't partially blocked), pump jet lever (isn't seized), and pump jet diaphragm (isn't split). |
| ID: 4917 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: overhauling the suspension Question: hi, im thinking of overhauling the suspension and get her handling like she did when she was new with a couple of improvements - ie stut brace, poly bushes, lowered springs. Before i get coilovers i wanna see how she used to handle (not that its bad at the moment) But wanna do it properly whilst im there, what bits should i think about and are new wishbones, ball joints, barings worthwhile? What shocks/ spring combo should i go for? was thinking standerd shocks/ -35mm springs? thanks Answer: Polybushes is a good move, or at the least, fit new wishbones as they'll come with new bushes and a ball-joint already fitted, then that just leaves the anti-rollbar bushes to change, but for the sake of a score more though, I'd be more inclined to change the wishbone bushes for Polyspec ones as well anyway. Strutbrace will help, but don't worry so much about one for the rear of the car. As for shocks & springs, the choice is endless. Koni shocks seem to get a good thumbs up from people in the know, and I believe the springs they do are -35mm as well. If not, there's plenty of other -35mm springs out there to choose from, and most of them are on equal par with each other. Why not just go for coilovers and fit them though? That way you get more adjustability of the shock/ride, and you can choose the height you want the car sitting at, rather than trying to sniff out a set of -35mm springs. If money is no object, Leda are probably about as good as it gets, although Avo and Gaz coilovers seem to fair well. As they say, you pays ya money, you takes ya choice... |
| ID: 4918 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Euro cluster Question: hi wizard again, would like to clear up a bit of a 5 myth. is it ture that you can get euro rear clusters for the left hand side without a reverse light? i wana keep a yellow indicator but not bothered to keep the reverse light (all the time anyway) Do you know where i would be able to pick one up? thanks again, sorry for the long questions! Answer: yeah, you can pick one up from france. its no myth. |
| ID: 4919 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: coneression Question: hi their wizard had a coneression test the other day and they were at 150 is this bad or not also one of the plugs was very black is not the ht lead thats fine could please help thanks Answer: dude.....its a compression check. 150 is good compression, and tells me that your engine is probably got a standard cam in it. the black plug is nothing to worry about, as long as the car idles and drives correctly
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| ID: 4921 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Window sticker Question: Where can i get hold of another RTOC window sticker. Is there a way of purchuasing one to get the simetrical look im after. Answer: Drop Tiny Tim (membership secretary) a pm and see if he can help. |
| ID: 4922 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: grille Question: Where can i pick up a laguna style grill with the light surrounds. Prima racing don't make them anymore. Grrr oo oo also if anyone has one to sell i will give a very good price. Selcon Answer: Could try putting a 'wanted' in the Classifieds. |
| ID: 4923 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Noise on acceleration Question: When in 3rd or 4th it seems and at a low speed say 30-40 in 4th and accelerating i can hear this noise that sounds like its coming from center of car. When i get some speed up in that gear the noise goes away. Kinda sounds like a clunking noise hard to describe doesnt do it any other time tho. Answer: Exhaust/manifold leaking? Wheel bearing on the way out? Worn driveshaft(s)? Could try taking your car to your local mot station, or a place with rollers, run the car up, and see if it's easier to pin-point the noise/problem that way. Other than that, and with no more details, it could one of many things I'm afraid... |
| ID: 4924 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sender and pump Question: hi wiz, Just picked up a 5 turbo knowing that the fuel sender unit wasnt working so the other day i went to a scrap yard to get a second hand one. The only one thay have was from a 5 TR model, fited the new sender which was giving me a reading on the gauge and no sooner had i fited it and drov it down the road, the fuel pump stoped working!! Is this a related isue?? i know the pump has been geting very noisey lately, could the pump just have died or could it be the relay or the sender????? Answer: i think the sender may be different in the TR model. who is to say that it worked correctly in the scrap car.... scrap car for a reason? also check fuses
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| ID: 4925 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: inside front tyres Question: both front tyres are wearing on inside edge about 25mm the car is standard height with 15in wheels and 45 195 tyres and I can not see any marks of rubbing cheers Answer: is it wearing on the inner sidewall or the inner part of the tread. inner sidewall means the offset is wrong on the wheels. maybe need to space them out a bit. or if its the inner part of the tread, then is the tracking ok? are you sure it aint dropped 35mm?- all makes a differnce! |
| ID: 4926 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: nos? Question: Is nos a worthwhile boost or will it just cook the engine Answer: If setup correctly (and that's the key), it seems to give good gains - Jaffa's car is proof of this. |
| ID: 4927 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Actuator. Question: Just had a thought. Ive just recived through the post my new actuator from k-tec. (T3 polished thing) Would you know what i need to to fit it, or is it just a matter of swappin it straight over for the teeny tiny one.????? Thanks alot. ( have you ever been called dumbledoor at all.?? Sorry 4 askin. Answer: i assume that your teeny tiny one aint hidden in your trousers and is in infact fitted on the car! lets hope that your t2 actuator isnt welded to the actuator bracket, and that the t3 one will fit in position ok. what im getting at is that you may have problems with the actuator bracket and the shaft of the t3 actuator, which may not have the correct end on it to connect with the wastegate arm correctly. p.s all the young boys call me 'sir'... before and after! 
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