| ID: 4832 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rev counter Question: Hi wiz, rev counter not working, wat the best way 2 rewire it? chars.. Answer: check haynes. aei has one wire off it that controls the tacho. also suspect that the wiring is dicky behind the dash... clean all earths. it may help. |
| ID: 4833 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fitted in car boost today BUT Question: fitted the in car boost with under bonnet bleed valve.i fitted it using diagrams out of the rtoc library but when the revs get to above 4 thosand the revs stick but it dont do it every time can you help wizard thanks again gaz Answer: the revs stick? sounds like a dodgy gauge to me. or a needle touching the plastic on the inside of the rev counter ' glass'. |
| ID: 4834 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: in car boost fitted today but Question: also 4 got to mension it was doin this with both the valves fully closed i didnt try it with them open thanks gaz Answer: dont matter, im sure its not the problem. |
| ID: 4835 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: in car boost Question: sorry wizard ignore last 2 questions all sorted now it woz my own fault the rev cable n rev pedal where catchin on the boost pipes i ad fitted thanks again gaz Answer: *whistle* ill post it anyway bud 
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| ID: 4836 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starter motor Question: can the starter motor arm be adjusted in length to meet the fly wheel teeth because when it was fitted and the engine came to be started the teeth on the fly wheel did not fully catch on the starter. what has gone wrong here. help help help please. Answer: one of the 3 holes that the starter bolts go through is illongated,so when u fit the starter,push it downwards to help it locate properly when tightening it.then if it still doesnt locate properly when starting,it may be a problem with the ring gear on your flywheel.. |
| ID: 4837 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil in bay Question: hello there, started my car up the other day to notice more smoke than usual coming outtta the exhaust from start up. it all settled after the car was warm so I didn't think to much of it. driving back home i noticed then on over run between 3.5k - 2k the car would puff out different colours of smoke, sometimes grey, black and blue....as I approached my house suddenly the oil warning light came on. stopped over and lifted the bonnet to see that oil had sprayed oil over the place!!!!!! any ideas as to why this could've happened??? whenever I applied the throttle on my way home there would be no smoke and the car would run and boost fine. thanks for all you help in advance. Answer: make sure the dipstick is actually in properly, and that it aint loose in the hole. the smoke, could of been caused from oil on the turbo/exhaust or manifold. it will still look like its from the exhaust as it blows under the car. check your turbo as well. as it could be that thats feckererereed 
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| ID: 4838 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Missing Question: Sinse buying my R5 the guy i bought it off had far to much oil in so the car started to spit oil and then the engine would cut out. ive sinse changed the plugs and the oil/filter. However ive just had the car running for the past 45 mins and while it is on idle it seems like it is still missing slightly and even pulling away. can you help. I had the carb done by bb tuning so i dont think that it is this that is causing the problem. Answer: change the cap/rotor and leads too. then check the timing sensor. then check to see that the acclerator pump is actually working correctly- ie.. moving... check that dump valbe aint leaking or that the pipe to it aint cracked and leaking air. also check to see that mixture screw has seal on it. |
| ID: 4839 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure can i??? Question: Hi wiz , im just wonderin if its poss to fit a oil pressure gauge , an aftermarket one as mine doesn't work at all , what should i check and what could repair the original???,if i cant repair the original would it be fine to fit the other , is there any thing when fitting an afermarket one i should watch??, think that makes sense??,dont answer that part , cheers again , Matt. Answer: u have a choice of two types, electrical or mechanical. reno one is electrical. mechanical uses thin pipe that actually carries oil into your gauge. on electrical gauge you just unscrew the old sensor, choose the correct adapter for the new one, and screw it on, then follow the instructions. easy peasy. |
| ID: 4840 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: blue book Question: just a quick thanks for the answer to my last question...another little one, i have is what....whats the blue book that i keep hearing about on the site. cheers wiz Answer: the blue book.....well, its just the early haynes manual. the later green type aint got the 'how to take your gearbox apart section' or some of the wiring for the turbo. but it dont matter as im sure Rich R on the site has got the relevent bits in his file page 
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| ID: 4841 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Standard Boost Question: Hi Wiz Once again a HUGE thank you the car is now boosting fine!My five is standard apart from a dump valve, now shes not overboosting the boost goes to just before half way on the guage on the dash, is this standard boost or should it go a little further? (if the boost needs to go up or down, is it the actuator arm i just lengthen or shorten?) Thanks Wizard Answer: standard boost should be to the 'B' of TURBO on the gauge. this is a rough guide, as some guages are well past their sell by date! shorten the actuator rod to up the boost. lets hope you dont snap it, like ive done before
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| ID: 4842 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil Question: my head was done about 6 months ago and i have only been starting it up since then because im waiting for the summer to come in to get it on the road. its a group a gasket thats on it and mobil 1 oil in it. i still see wee tiny bits of white in the oil , its not much thoe could my head be fecked again? ps the temp and oli pressure are totally fine. cheers Answer: the car needs a good run. infact several good runs to get rid of all the condensation in the engine. it aint fecked yet kiddo! |
| ID: 4843 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: blow off/dump valve Question: Are they the same thing? or what is the difference? Do they only fit certain cars? Cheers Marcus Answer: as far as im aware blow-off valves fit jap cars, and dump valves fit all other cars....but they are the same thing, except you pay alot more for 'blow-off valves'. |
| ID: 4844 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: handling Question: My car has rubish handling and has had for a long time now. It is a phase 1 and had Avo coilovers on there until i changed it to phase 2 mounts and different coilovers with no difference to the problem. The problem is that it feels 'not steady' on the road (compared to other gtt's ive driven) and sometimes doesn't want to stay straight on some(uneven) roads even though the tracking has been done a milllion times! So far ive changed roll bar bushes, coilovers, steering rack, wishbones, uj, column bushes, rear axle. DONT know what else to do! Im thinking of changing shell and transplanting engine to other body. Do u think i should try and another front subframe or something else (maybe different steering coloumn.. don't know if its different to phase 2 and dont know if that will make a difference either!) PLEASE HELP WITH MY CRAP CAR! Answer: first of all check that all the subframe bolts are done up tight...i mean real tight! i had a car once, and the back ones were so loose the subframe actually flapped when you accelerated or braked..coutesy of someone in st albans failing that, id also check your tyre pressures. make sure the rear ones are correct...the amount of times if theough my cars handling way cr@p only to find the tyre pressures were wrong!!!! if the backs are flat, then the front will wander!!! have you changed the track rod ends when u changed the rack? - they could be buggered. |
| ID: 4845 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo motor into a clio Question: is there any major probs putting a r5 turbo limp into my RSI clio i know i will have to do away with the power steering but is they any bit that i should get ready be for i change over Answer: this has been mentioned a million times on the boards. the man you really need to speak to is ADEY. who did this himself. or even torsion tuning- great blokes. define major problems.... you will need a new rad and fuel regulator. and exhaust.etc etc as well. |
| ID: 4846 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: psi at carb top Question: is it higher than the actual psi the cars runnin at?? as mines readin at 9 psi Answer: Yep, there'll always be a higher reading of boost pressure (when on boost) at the carb top compared to the inlet manifold. If there wasn't, the carb/venturi effect wouldn't work! |
| ID: 4847 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Standard Boost Question: Hi Wiz Ive manage to find a boost gragh pic on the forums which shows what pressures are where on the standard boost gauge and one of the members says that ""C"" or 10.5 psi is the standard boost pressure for a standard 5, if this is right ignore both these questions thanx Jay Answer: Standard boost pressure is 8psi +/- 2psi. 10.5psi is a wee bit high for standard, but I wouldn't worry about it as it's still within the fuelling capabilities of the carb. |
| ID: 4848 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tyre wear Question: hi wiz!!! ive got a bit of trouble! wondered if u can help?! i am experiencing extremely uneven tyre wear. the wheels are standard with new tyres at the correct pressures! the suspension is standard aswell as new with new bushes! all the tracking and geometry has checked and seems to be fine! i havent got a clue wot it cud be specially as i neva rag it round corners!! wot do u tink??!! ps the car even has all new wheel bearings!! Answer: the 'suspension is standard'- are you sure it aint been lowered 35mm? and amount of lowering and it wears the inner part of the tyres out. you havent properly told me what exactly is wearing unevenly? if you have different types of tyres on the front then one tyre could have a quicker wearing compound than the other...etc etc. |
| ID: 4849 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electric power drains until the car cuts out Question: Hi Wiz... On the way home the other night, my dashboard lights got dimmer and dimmer until they blacked out, my headlights got dimmer too and eventually the car cut out on me. I tried bumping it by changing down a gear but it wouldnt fire back up. After waiting approx 10mins at the roadside it started up, but only just - i drove a further 3-4 miles and I lost power again and came to a stop. After that - a friend put some power in via his car and some jump leads...it started up again and i got home. The battery light never showed which I thought was an indication of the alternator failing, so i guess it isnt that. I also guess that the car was only running on battery power, but your the WIZ and im a DIV when it comes to these things so over to you!! lol Thanks in Advance Jamie Answer: start the car. with voltmeter in hand measure what the alt is producing. then measure what the batt is seeing.... then compare the two, and tell me!!! the alt should be producing 13.5-14.5volts approx. |
| ID: 4850 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Off-carb elbow??? Question: I've seen it done before, but would there be any downsides to usind a 90degree bend as a carb elbow rather than a standard/ally one? Answer: 90deg pipe you mean? Nope, won't be a problem, except you might find the pipe keeps popping off under high boost (you could weld a few bobbles on the carb inlet tract to help keep the pipe in situ though), and don't forget that you've still gotta run a feed/pipe somehow to the fuel pressure regulator and the accelerator pump cct. |
| ID: 4852 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electric power drains until the car cuts out Question: Wiz To update my first question.... Ive replaced the earth cable from the battery for a new one. Ive noticed the wires going into the connector on the top of the alternator look like theyve had better days.... hope this helps Sherlock Answer: my dear watson, see the previous answer
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| ID: 4853 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Aint No Stopping Question: Hello Wiz Took my r5 out the other day went to brake and the pedal just hit the floor had to use hand brake to stop. Next day they were working fine, but have lost faith in them help ! Answer: check all the pipes to see if they are ok. also check one way valve on back of head to see if still one way! then use haynes to see if there are any probs...im sure there is a test that you can do in there. |
| ID: 4854 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil gauge Question: hi wiz was wondering if there is any way to test the oil pressure gauge, has been working fine until i took the dash out to sort speedo, now it's dead everything else works fine, also do you know if turbo from saab will fit car Answer: if you took the dash out, then you will probably of disturbed summat! if you cannot work out what you disconnected then you will probably have to buy an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and fit that instead. i did hear that a saab turbo would fit, but i know most people just fit rover 220/420/620 turbo units... after slight modification! |
| ID: 4855 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: too hot Question: could you tell me wot is wrong with my car just got back on road after rebuild but when i give the car a bit of boost it seems to push the temp right up and my fan does not come in i have ktr 230 turbo on but only strapped standard intercooler and standard rad but with low temp switch and thermostat. when the car is just idleing the fan seems to work fine? thanks in advance. Answer: sounds like you have got trapped air in the cooling system. or a pipe that aint done up properly. check pipes, and then bleed system properly, using all bleed nipples!!! |
| ID: 4856 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ?????? Question: wot is the green type resistor for, under engine bay the bit on the bulkhead above turbo with two purple wires going to it? cheers for the help Answer: erm this has been mentioned on the board before. im sure someone said it was summat todo with the antiperc fan. maybe Rich R said it. eitherway alot of cars dont have them on anymore. |
| ID: 4857 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: help needed Question: can anybody please help,during the engine rebuild we have lost a threaded insert that was used on no. 1 plug because it`s threads have been stripped at some point in its life.Now everythings ready to go,so if anybody can supply one or put me in touch with somebody that would have one cheers Answer: you have either got a helicoil or a time-sert. just goto your local fastener/ nut and bolt supplier, they should be able to help. even a machine shop..... |
| ID: 4858 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: hi wiz, my fuel pump has started making a realy horrible whining noise, obviously this isnt normal! a new high pressure fuel pump is on the way! but will it cause any seriouse damage if it gives up the ghost while i am driving? thanks in advance. Answer: you just wont be able to drive anywhere. make sure the fuel pump aint just rubbing or rattling in it holder.... |
| ID: 4859 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carbs Question: i would like to know which jets are which and where the air corrector are on a 32dis 854 and 931 carbs. can you help??? is it possible to get an diagram for the internals of both of these carbs??? cheers wiz. Answer: haynes carburettor manual is what you need but im pretty sure that some of the personal files on the website have this info also. |
| ID: 4860 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: side exit turbo pipe Question: hi o mighty 1. im looking at the k tec sidey to buy. do i have to buy the turbo down pipe for it to fit or can it be purchased at a later date as i notice they dont sell it wi the sidey . thanku please wizard Answer: fone david, ask him whether you can buy it at a later date. he is very helpful. tell him that the wizard sent you 
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| ID: 4861 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine rebuild Question: Hi im going to get my engine rebuilt this year and am going spend around 2k, i want high performance but i use the car every day, what components would you sugest? ps i was looking at the bb stage three kit all low cop and all that. Answer: define high performance. as i always say, you will not get a reliable 200bhp, assuming you regard reliable as completely trouble free motoring, as if the car was standard. if you seriously wanted a reliable engines, then you would be looking at steel liners, forged pistons, 'H' section rods. which i can kinda guarantee would eat most of the £2k away straight away. what im trying to say is that you need to plan ahead. how much psi/ bhp are you thinking of running, then get back to me
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| ID: 4863 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cup mod Question: hows it going . im just new and will probably torture you with a load of dumb questions but . im having probs figuring out the cup mod . the diagram on this site shows the cup mod for an actuator with a single opening . what do you do if you have one with two . do you just leave the back one open . also then where do you put the t piece for the dump valve and where does the pipe go from that goes to the firewall (i think thats what its called . the part on the ignition module) . thanks mark Answer: the pipe from the ignition module goes to a fitting under the car on the inlet manifold.as it has to register vacuum hence the take off under the carb. yes you just leave the second port on your actuator open,it wont do any damage. and you put the t-piece for the dump valve into the pipe from the ignition module to the inlet manifold,not the actuator line.
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