| ID: 4795 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Spluttering a certain revs Question: Hi wiz I got a problem with my 5. When driving the car splutters and jolts when you give it full trottle through 3 to 4500 rev range and after that it is ok till max revs. Have had new ht leads,spark plugs,rotar arm,dis cap, but is exactly the same. Im running standard turbo running 12 psi and have got a group a carb bought from ktec with whatever jets they have put in(this has been overhauled to). Have been for rolling road to setup mixture etc.. but it still sputters and jolts as before I thought it might be not getting enough fuel so have also changed fuel pump and filter and relay. but still the same. Could it be timing sensor??? any other ideas please tell us, its driving me mad. one other thing..It will run fine if you let the revs build up without flooring the accelerator. Answer: change the timing sensor. do a compression check just incase. then suspect the carb. |
| ID: 4796 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wheel width Question: Hi wiz, Asked on the boards but dont think many people have done it before...... Got a set of Azev type A's, offset is 35mm and they are 15's. The problem is they are 7.5 inches wide, now if i use spacers to move the inner wheel form the inner arch etc wont i just be rubbing the outer arch instead?? Going to give the arches some gentle persuasion with a hammer lol but if they realistically are to wide in your opinion i will save my hard earned peanuts and not waste my time whacking and grinding bits of my beloved (or do i mean b*s*a*d) car Many thanks Matt p.s if i can managge to destroy enough of my car to fit the wheels using stupid size spacers, any ideas where i can get longer wheel bolts from??? no local wheel supplier does em Answer: it also depends how low ur car is.if you spacer them out, then when you turn the cirner then they wont hit the inner arch. i think there is more lee-way on the outer arch clearance.... as for longer bolts, im sure wheel mania do them....in fact id say most alloy wheel specialists should. |
| ID: 4797 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: spluttering 2 Question: I am changing the timing sensor next week but i found one more thing. When u drive with the choke on it drives alot better and doesnt splutter at all. I think its not getting enough fuel. But I have changed the fuel filter and pump and cleaned out piping and the float level when i keep taking the carb top off is always full. The guy who rolling roaded it even turned the mixture screw right up but it still spluttered when u floor it. Answer: have u tried cleaning the idle jet? its located on the drivers side of the carburettor on the main body,and has a brass head about 1cm in diameter,take that out,and carefully pull it apart,as there may be a piece inside it when u pull it in 2,one end has a small jet,u may find that its blocked,so just clean it out and refit it,also make sure there is a rubber seal around it,and that its intact. |
| ID: 4800 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure guage installation Question: I am looking to install a Racetech electric oil pressure guage, but I am not sure wether I can connect the wires from the existing pressure sender to it or if I need to buy a sender from racetech. If I need to buy a new sender where can I fit it as I think the original sensor also has the low oil pressure warning switch built in to it and therefore I would not be able to put the new sender in that location. Thankyou Answer: You'd have to check with Racetech to see if the o.e sender would work with their gauge, but I somehow doubt it. Best place to plumb the sender is in the supply pipe to the turbo, as that's the main point in the oil cct that you really want to know what's happening with the oil pressure. Mocal/Think-Auto, Rally Design, and Demon Tweeks (to name 3 companies) should be able to help with a turbo oil feed pipe with relevant T-adaptor so that you can screw the sender into. |
| ID: 4801 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil light Question: oil light comes on then goes of it does it every blue moon nut my oil level and oil pressure is fine always evemn when it comes on. Could it be a faulty wire or a dodgy oil pump? if its the oil pump where would u get 1 cause i heard renault dont make them any more. Answer: It's more than likely a dodgy wire/connection - Check the sender wires (down by the nearside front of the sump/engine) are making good contact, and also check all is ok on the 'connector block from hell' (behind the nearside headlight). |
| ID: 4802 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dodgy battery/alternator? Question: hello wiz, when starting my car the instrument lights seem to dim down when trying to start it. also when my lights are on and the fan kicks in the lights go off and come on again. was wondering do i need a high output alternator (cos of the sound system)? if i do can i get a more powerful one from another car?what car? Answer: maybe you need a higher ampage battery as well.... such as one from a diesel car, as these usually have higher ampage in a smaller 'body', so will fit the 5 nice  you can get a high power alternator off the clio i think.... |
| ID: 4803 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: not fireing Question: hi wiz, i have had this problem for some time. After running the car for a while, go for a drive, i leave it for a bit it doesnt want to fire/ start up again. If i leave it for about 10 mins it fires up again. Ive checked the leads and plugs they sceem fine. Do u have any suggestions. Answer: sounds like a fuelling issue to me,maybe it needs a rebuild and/or setting up properly. |
| ID: 4804 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Any garages Question: Hi wiz, I have now found out the valve stem oil seals have gone, I have noticed from your other answers its possible to re-new them with out taking the head off? im from the colchester area and was wondering if you could advise me of any one who might be able to help me? cheers for your help, Dan Answer: there are various tuners not far from you,its just whether they will replace them without taking the head off for you. |
| ID: 4805 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: in car boost controller Question: hi wizard i am still stuck on my in car boost ajuster i have had a look around the site library but still unsure.i have an in car boost controller with three outlets.what else do i need.do i need an under bonnet bleed valve aswell. is this classed as a restrictor or do i need a restrictor also where do i get one from.or is this a spider valve.plz help thanks again gaz. Answer: hello gaz,hows that turbo  u can run the incar boost with what u have,although it wont be restricted which isnt a good thing with most 5 owners. i run the incar boost controllers with one port blocked off and use an under bonnet restrictor(similar to spyder valve) to control the max boost. |
| ID: 4806 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: spark Question: there is no spark from the main ht lead but there is a constant 12-13v runnin through it help! have i wired it up wrong or is it a relay from whats bin sed before Answer: its eithere the relay or sounds like the ecu or ignition coil is knackered. try to swap them with a mates unit if possible. also check haynes there maybe a fault diagnosis flow chart thingy in there for you to follow. (think there is in the 5 manual) |
| ID: 4807 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost gauge Question: hi wiz, was wondering if you knew what sort of psi i am getting if the boost gauge goes up to just before the red section Answer: if its the 'O' of turbo then its about 10psi. if its alittle after it maybe 11 or 12psi. these gauges can be unreliable though! |
| ID: 4808 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Well it be worse? Question: Hey there I got standart suspension at the moment (phase1) And 15"" 50/205. But i would like to have 16"" 40 but if it goes agains my ktec rearbumper now. Can i then lower it in the back with the 16"" or will it be worse? (think it looks to high) Answer: it will have less clearance with the larger rims,even with lower profile tyres,so if u want to lower it further,then you will have to modify the rear bumper. |
| ID: 4809 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: uprated fule pump Question: hi wizzard, well after alot of time and money ive nearly built the engine to 350bhp, the big question is would u run a standard oil pump or an uprated one? im going to be useing a seperate nocal oil cooler once engines droped bk in car, heard good and bad things about uprated oil pump Answer: you cannot buy an uprated oil pump. as far as i know its a standard one with a shimmed pressure release valve, so it pumps with more pressure than standard. i would get one.
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| ID: 4810 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shit shity bang bang!!!! Question: hi wiz, in need of ur help i have just recently had my five reborn an its running sh**t, it got group A carb k-tecs bigest head manifolds 2 match all new plugs an lead wi dizzy cap, an k-tecs biggest turbo. it jus wont idle its up an down all over the place here wat we've done so far, 1) tuk 2 garage an is ruuning realy week at 0.3 an mixture isnt altering wen played with! 2) checked 4 air leeks all gud 3) checked an cleaned idle jet Answer: you have got crap in the small brass jet in the carb base, that controls the idle ciruit. first step is to remove idle jet again, and with straw attachment, spray 20secs worth of wd40 deep into the hole. make sure the straw is as far it will go. then repeat once more. screw idle jet back in and start car. if it aint better after that, the take carb off and manually clean carb base. |
| ID: 4811 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: just a thanks Question: hi wizard just a quick thanks to show my apreciation car is running with a t25 now and will be putting the boost controller ect on a weekend thanks again. gaz Answer: superduper! |
| ID: 4812 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost leak??? Question: hi, ive just recently been havin a problem with the boost presure my turbo holds, it boosts up to 1.5 bar on full boost the then falls to 1bar and wont go any higher? ime running a t2/t25 on a in car bleed valve with a standard actuator? ive looked at all boost hoses and intercooler and all is fine, the only thing out of place is ime missing a stud on the turbo inlet? its the square one thats suposed to have 4 studs its only got three? there is a definate whisleing noise? soz about the essay!!! Answer: best take the turbo off the manifold, and seal it properly using a t25 sized metal turbo seal (unofficially use a bit of exhaust paste, make sure its on the edges though, as it can wreck your turbo..allegedly) once you've done this it should be ok. if it aint then suspect the actuator. maybe time to get a new one!!! |
| ID: 4813 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Crazy Pipes! Question: Hi Wizard Ive got a pipe problem, the problem being ive got pipes that arnt connected at one end? The first one is coming of the carb, Its on the turbo side of the carb (the left if your sitting in the car) just underneath the top but higher than the little sensor, theres is a silver piece that sticks out a bit (its like a metal cyclinder) and on that is the pipe, its a long pipe about 2 foot, that just dangles down around the intercooler area, should this pipe be connected to something? Ive also got one more! Ive got a strange pump like thing bolted to the side of my left hand wing (its just behind the left light and to the side of the water filler tank) its got two pipes coming off it, one of them dangles around the intercooler and has a guaze on the end (the type of guaze you have when its a pipe going into a water tank so its stops it sucking up any crap, hence why i think its a pump of some sort?) and the other pipe dissapeers behind the front bumper, infront of the intercooler? Could you shed any light on what these pipes do and where theyre supposed to go? Thanx wiz Ill put some pics of these crazy pipes on my profile, it might make things easyier coz i know my descriptions are crap! Answer: Chill my man, chill  The pipe off the carb goes to free-air - It's an ambient pressure reference source for part of the enrichment circuit. The 'strange pump' thing behind the nearside headlight is the horn pump. The pipe with the gauze filter on the end is simply the air 'intake' pipe for the pump. Leave both as is |
| ID: 4814 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost Question: i have just brought an r5gtt and when i got it, it was in bits i have put all back together again but there seems to be no boost what so ever the actuator is fine and the turbo there is no play in the shaft i dont know what it is HELP!!!!!! Answer: major boost leak? - have you checked to see if you connected the pipes up correctly? look at other peoples on the web site...plenty of gratuitous engine shots btw....with the boost pipes off the turbo, start the car (if the turbo is standard...) start the car. place ur hand over the turbo outlet...and rev the car via the throttle cable on the back of the carb. your hand should be blown off the turbo!!!! if not u have got serious problems! |
| ID: 4815 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Overboost Question: Hi Wiz Thanks for the pipe help!, i was gettin all worried about them but youve set me at ease I have another prob, i thought id ask but im not sure weather my car knowledge is good enough to fix it myself, but here goes. The car is overboosting, at about 35 - 40 RPM (about 1/2 - 3/4 of the rev guage) the boost gauge is off the scale and if i dont take my foot off the gas and dump some pressure (the cars standard apart from a dump valve) the boost senor kicks in and the ignition cuts out and theres a pop. Is there some simple steps i can do to see what the problem might be? Ive looked in the heynes for a diagram as to how things should be piped up, but theres not one in there  Thanx Wiz i really appreciate all your help Answer: copy this... http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=141 and all should be ok! |
| ID: 4816 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Blimmin bloody blasted crappy french locking thing Question: Ater getting coverd in mastic and repairing the crazy fiddly central lock , i now cant get the lock to close on the door or should i say the catch to curl around the door stay, help me , i just want to shut and flippin door to lock , its not a lot to ask is it???, cheers wiz, matt. Answer: sounds like your lock is stuck internally. mine did this on a very cold day, the grease had turned into rubbery stuff! i took the lock out and soaked repeatedly in wd40, and 'played with it' until it worked! if u cannot get it to work you may have to get a new lock mechanism! |
| ID: 4817 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rolling road Question: Alrite mate, any ideas if there are any decent rolling roads/tuners round-about the Redditch area, its just south of Birmingham. All the well known tuners and the ones in the contacts section seem to be down by London. Cheers Answer: im not sure about any RR's down in redditch, most of my testing is done down the A435 (??) towards the Maypole island you may have to go further afield to northampton. where jamsport and others are located. thinking about it, Thor is in coventry.... nice hub dyno avoid sids tune shop in walsall though (back of MPC)...just trust me on that!- AVOID AVOID AVOID! |
| ID: 4823 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch Question: hi wizard when my gear box gets hot it when the car warms up will not go in to 1st gear easy and also will not go in to reverse with out grinding but when cold they go in fine people have told me its the clutch cable or the pedal and have or so said it could be the pressure plate the clutch biteing point is low so i dont think its the clutch please help me thanks Answer: if the biting point is really low,it may not be letting the clutch disengage enough when hot. to fix the problem,you have to modify the clutch pedal stop block.its in the footwell,the pedal sits on it to stop it coming back to far toward the driver.just remove it and file 1mm off at a time to see if it solves the problem,chances are it will do. |
| ID: 4824 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: front indicaters Question: hi i hope you can help its not a serious problem but im trying to find someone who sells crystal clear front indicators not the normal clear ones do you now where i can buy them from thanks if you can help with this urcward question thanks alot Answer: dude, if they were on sale, i think alot of people would of had them by now!!! there are two types. orange or clear. smoked are sprayed i think. unless you fancy making a pair somehow, ad selling them to the rest of the club? i am assuming you want standard fitment/ standard shape ones. here is an idea how to make them.....maybe http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/438136/3 zx rear clusters i know...but same principle? |
| ID: 4825 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: just finished rebuild Question: but i have a prob when i first start car its fine then when car warms up lots of white smoke done compression test all fine ,header tank not pressoring up and no oil in water or water in oil all so had head tested when it was skimmed any ideas???? Regards, Shane Answer: check your turbo. |
| ID: 4826 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shity shity bang bang 2 !! Question: Hi wiz, did exactly wat u said 3 times over as wel as cleaning the base of the carb but there was no change am a bit baffled with the thing jus wona burn it, ne sugestions? do u think a r/r specialist will b able 2 set the carb up an tel me exactly wats goin? wen driving its fine its just idling an driving slowly? also another question, wats the best way 2 modify the breather system got a phase 2! does the ecu have a built in rev limiter? many thank oh wise 1!! Answer: ecu has no limiter. check the manifold to head connections..make sure u got all you bolts tight. then check the two one way valves under the carb ae actually still acting one way. then check that the mixture screw aint fallen out and still has the black rubber o-ring around its middle, check that the end aint snapped off in the carb base. also check to see that dump valve aint sticking or got a split diaphram. then check pipework to dump valve, and to ecu, cos they all come from the manifold. also check that the anti perc fan sensor in the carb base is still attached. then take a dump, and whilst straining, remember which friends have a spare carb and try that!!! also check that the breather system has all its restrictors in!!!! i wouldnt bother modifying the breather system unless u run high boost. |
| ID: 4827 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wont Idle Question: Alright Mate, I've had my carb apart to sort out my cars dodgy tick over. Sorted that. (the washer on the idle speed jet was missing) But now, if i have the idle speed set at any less than about 1500rpm, then it will tick over fine for about 5 seconds, then very slowly the revs drop and then it cuts out. Any ideas ? Thanks. Answer: has the mixture screw got its black o ring around it? has the mixture screw end snapped off in its base? (if all ok, then try winding the mixture screw out to rivchen it a bit) surely your brother would have a good idea, as he works in the 'fuelling business' just messing mate does this happen when the car is cold or hot? if its cold, then thats whats the choke is for! is its hot, then thats a different matter |
| ID: 4828 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Start bi**h Question: When i go to start the car, it only runs on two plugs at first (sometimes) but then comes to, why is this?? Do i need to take it for a long run as it hasn't moved much for a bit. Answer: thrash the nuts off it. it may help clear the cobwebs out of the engine. maybe a new set of plugs/leads/cap/rotor too
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| ID: 4829 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil level Question: where on the oil gauge shoud it read when u switch on the engine to indicate the right oil level? Answer: just read it off the dipstick, dont try to be posh they usually just leap up to 6 anyways. as long as its on max on the actual dipstick then you'll be fine. infact if you are gonna be racing the car round a circuit id be inclined to put alittle bit over the max, as oil surge can be nasty on 5's
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| ID: 4830 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: still smoking Question: Hi wiz, ive been told my turbo has gone yet there is no oil in the boost hoses. is it possible to blow the manifold side of the turbo? the car doesnt smoke until its warmed up and only seems to be on tickover, its blue smoke and gets realy heavy when i pull away after ticking over for a while then seems to clear up whilst driving please help as im having no luck! cheers dan Answer: its possible for the turbo to just blow oil on the exhaust side,but have u done any other checks?have you checked the breather system is clear?or a leak down test? |
| ID: 4831 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost guage Question: I want to plumb up a boost guage in mi car. And was woundering where to i take the pipe and two wires (got light inside) through the bulk head. Answer: there are two places i use. in the space in the drivers side of the scuttle tray there should be a hole, or black plug or summat. i also use the large grommet hidden next to the battery (slightly towards the interior fan motor), where the main wiring goes thru the bulkhead. |