| ID: 4614 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fan! Question: when i got the car it had the fan on a switch but i dont like it on the switch so how do i change it bk. cheers wiz Answer: buy a new rad fan switch. connect from the +ve on the battery to the switch, then from the switch to the fan, then from the fan to the -ve/bodywork... |
| ID: 4615 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stalling/jerking sometimes and back firing on engine braking Question: You've proberly answered this a thousand times before, i've had a scan through but found a mixture of replies. Once car has warmed up (choke not on) i find that the car is just cutting out on idle and i have to keep revving it. Also when i back off the throttle when driving it seems to backfire abit (popping). When holding the revs at about 2000-3000 rpm it seems to splutter now and then. What do you think? *Idle jet needs cleaning *Carb needs tuning (if so how many turns) *New dizzy ?????????????????????????????? Thanks Answer: check the dizzy for corrosion.... then clean the idle jet, if this dont work, then u need to clean the whole carb out and maybe change the diaphrams. also check the vacuum hosing is ok, as this can cause probs too, if its leaking. |
| ID: 4616 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head gasket Question: Hi wiz, ive had no end of trouble with head gaskets, so the last time i had it done at bb tuning hopeing not to have the same problem, only about 2 an a half months down the line an its gone again! im only running at 8psi min an 15 psi max. should this be happening? cheers dan Answer: you need to check that the head depth is more than 72.5mm thick, and then check that the ecu can actually hold a vacuum,- test this by sucking the smalll pipe off the ufo shaped lump on the from of the unit. if its open ciruit then you will be getting too much advance. |
| ID: 4617 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Exhaust noise after pipe slipped of T3 Question: Hi Wiz, I'm experiencing quite a bit of exhaust noise from the engine bay, seems to have started after the pipe came loose and slipped off the T3 on the turbo, hence getting upwards of 30psi. Luckily I wasn't giving her too much abuse before I found that out - but there seems to be a lot of exhaust noise when revving the engine, even at idle and I can't pinpoint it exactly. Would a gasket have blown? Engine seems to run ok/idle etc, power seems roughly the same. I'm going to have it checked, just want to have an idea. Thanks Answer: you need to start the car from cold, and quickly shove yer hand around any of the points you think maybe leaking. you should be able to hear or feel any leaks, hopefully before the manifold gets too hot.... |
| ID: 4618 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleeding Problem Question: I changed the flexi pipe going to the caliper and the f***er wont bleed it just drippe's out took it all apart and checked each part and they work indepently conect them up and it dipples again anyone know what going on Answer: which calipers? - front or rear? im assuming u mean the front ones? there maybe s*** in the caliper, or maybe the caliper if fecked. which bit is dribbling?- ifs its a sealing problem you have got, id put some PTFE tape around the thread.... |
| ID: 4619 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Waistgate housing Question: The other day i took my turbo off and now wish i hadnt, i managed to snap off 2 studs that join the turbo to the waist gate housing and now it leaks like mad. also there is loads of cracks around the waistgate will these cause me problems and do u kno where i can get hold of a new part?? cheers jay Answer: depending what turbo you have, depends on how easy it is to get a spare exhaust housing. what is the numbers stamped on the inside of where the exhaust gas goes into the housing say? i.e what A/R ratio is it? 0.35? 0.49? etc etc. then i can tell you what turbo to look for. |
| ID: 4620 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Waistgate housing Part 2 Question: hey wiz just checked me tubo. on the front of the turbo it says air reserch A.R .48 and on the waistgate housin where the exhaust gasses come is (M.4) (PT-1) and AR 35 Answer: the turbo sounds kinda like standard t2. so basically a really fecked turbo is what u need. put an advert on the site, wont cost alot i can assure you. then remove old housing and replace. 
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| ID: 4621 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rebuild Question: hey m8 im thinking about doing a engine rebuild myself is there anything i need 2 no b4 i start ???????? Answer: do you have access to all the parts you need? tools wise you dont need anything special. i would say though, keep it out of the way of dust, and when you finally do strip the block down completely, then get it cleaned thoroughly. its the best thing you can do!!!!!honest! theres a ledge next to the cam internally that lets crap sit in it without letting it drain away, this accumulates over time, only way to get it out is to clean block!!! hope this helps! p.s label everything and dont mix up big end caps!!!!! |
| ID: 4622 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no brakes Question: hey wiz, still got no brakes on me 5 , i just cant bleed them, well one of them. i change d the flexi pipe on the drivers side front caliper and now i cant bleed it. all other brakes will bleed fine but wen i go to do this one i get nothing and the pedal only goes down so far and then stops. but as u kno normally wen u open the bleed valve the pedal goes that bit further. any ideas?? jay Answer: i cant remember if u said the rear or the front one was the problem. if its the rear then i suspect that you may need a new caliper or a new brake bias valve (load compensator). or you may have a split pipe somewhere. |
| ID: 4623 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: In-Car adjustable Boost - No operation Question: Hi ""the Wizard"" I have an In-Car adjustable boost controller in my Phase 2 GT Turbo. Up until recently it worked without a hitch, upping the boost to a reliable 16psi, with a couple of revolutions of the controller. Now, when adjusting the controller, I have no increase in (upper) boost at all - it sits at 10psi (standard). What could have gone wrong? Do you have any suggestions of what/where I should check? I look forward to your feedback, Regard. Answer: are you 100% sure you have not got a boost leak?- or your boost gauge tube aint leaking?- does it actually feel slower? |
| ID: 4624 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fan again Question: i have 2 wires near my starter motor would that be the 2 that go to my fan switch? cheers wiz Answer: yes, assuming they are not mauve and yellow, in which case they go on the alternator regulator thingy
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| ID: 4625 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tomcat t25 Question: hey m8 im thinking about fittin a tomcar t25 turbo too my 5 what kind ov boost will the turbo run and how much lag will b with the turbo the car has a fmic, piper 300 cam,ported & flowed head,2.5"" downpipe,water injection,l/b flywheel & crank, p.s the turbo will only used 4 about 6 months till i save up for a ktr 350 Regards, Shane Answer: lag onthe tomcat......comes on full boost about 3.5k. the turbo is designed to run no more than 13psi, but that dont mean u cant run 20+psi  its just wont last as long
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| ID: 4626 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: end caps Question: ello anyway to sort mixed up end caps or will i have to buuy new rods Answer: can i call u a 'prat', or would general 'idiot' suffice...... *sigh* YOU REALLY SHOULD OF MARKED THEM WITH A PUNCH OR A PEN OR SUMMAT FIRST, AS MENTIONED IN EVERY SINGLE ENGINE BUILDING BOOK! - HELLL EVEN HAYNES SAYS IT. you did read it didnt you?  if not you MAY be able to look at the wear marks along the edges of them. but this is unlikely. either that or u gotta find someone who will sell u matching conrods and caps. MAKE SURE U MARK THESE UP TOO!!! sorry if i sound harsh, but u really f***ed up there kiddo. |
| ID: 4627 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rocker cover Question: the engine on my 5 recently started leaking oil from the cork washers on the top of rocker cover, so off i went to renault i purchased new ones but oil is still leaking any suggestions!! Answer: yeah, you are gonna have to take the rocker cover off, get a 12mm socket on an extension, put it on the back of the holes where the studs poke thru and hammer them back up, as the action of tightening the 3 rocker cover nuts over the years causes the cover to bend exactly where the fibre washers sit. hammer from the back until the 'seat' is flat again. |
| ID: 4628 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head gasket Question: im currently rebuilding my engine at the moment and want to know where and how much to get a group a head gasket from cheers Answer: i am impartial so i cant tell u exactly where to get a headgasket from, i could suggest a myriad of tuners or even one or two car parts suppliers. but then again i could suggest that you do a search of the boards and see who EVERYONE gets theirs from..... prices vary according to where u get them from, but they will be the same product.. |
| ID: 4629 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dash buttons Question: On my dash i have two buttons that control the back windscreenwiper one at the right handside of the steering wheel and the other on the left handside. Is this correct? Answer: no, both should be on the left. |
| ID: 4630 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: painted alloys Question: Hi Wiz, Just bought a set of alloys that have been painted. How do i go about removing it without damaging the wheels? A few people have said about shot/bead blasting but was thinking more along the lines of elbow grease and cheap, just aint got a clue what products etc are best to use if any Cheers Minty Answer: nitromors, and lots of it. shot blasting aint expensive, should be less than £15 per rim, maybe even a fiver per rim
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| ID: 4631 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: end caps Question: hello wiz thanks for your comments ! it was not me who mixed the end caps up ! a lad i no was rebuilding my block for me but came across a block which had already been built, hence he left me a block with no crank and no end caps on he is going to be getting f***ing told the useless w***er if you want out done right do it yourself ! Answer: lol, sorry dude. give the kid a clip round the ear, then give him one from me and the rest of the engine building fraternity. make sure you have a brick in you hand when you do it! |
| ID: 4632 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: won Question: hi wizard car has been sitting for a couple of months,went to start it and it would not fire up, car is turning over, fuel is getting through and it's sparking, any idea Answer: keep trying, it will start eventually. try squirting some carb cleaner/brake disc cleaner into the carb....usually works. |
| ID: 4633 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: What Valves???? Question: Hi, Please could you tell me which valves are used on the exhaust side to give it big valves? I`ve been told mg metro ones but these don`t measure up right and have different cotters. Uprated valve stem seals! which engine are these from? cheers Answer: im not sure about the big exhaust valves, u may have to ask a specialist engine buikder to tell you a secret or two  as for the uprated valve stem seal, i personally have put VW ones on, but i have heard some of the vauxhall ones also fit better. i have since took them off and run with none.
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| ID: 4634 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gauge installation Question: Dear Wizard, I have a Clio GT Turbo, and i want to install a oil temp and an oil pressure gauge. Where do i plumb them in? Also, i have space for another gauge in my 'cockpit', what do you advise would be of most benefit safety-wise- amp/volt monitoring, air/fuel, etc? i already have 2xboost gauges, one at the turbo and one at the carb. Many thanks for your wisdom Wiz. Tanvir aka C11O TC Answer: ive seen oil temp gauge put in the pipes that run to the rad. depends whether you want pre-cooled or after-cooled the oil pressure gauge is usually the bottom of the oil feed pipe to the turbo, but some people do use a gauge just as the oil enters into the turbo as well. if u wanted to fit an air fuel ratio meter as well, that is a big benefit, but you will have to weld a lambda probe bracket onto the turbo cross pipe, just after the elbow. |
| ID: 4635 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: NO POWER TO RELAY Question: I CANNOT GET POWER TO THE FEUL PUMP RELAY IN A 90 REG R5 IF I HAD THE WRONG IGNITION SWITCH WOULD IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE I HAVE CHANGED ALL THE WIRING LOOM. ANY SUGGESTIONS. (I HAVE TRIED 3 DIFFERENT RELAYS AND IM SURE ITS NOT THAT) Answer: im assuming youve checked all the fuses.... how about the relay that sits next to the ecu under the scuttle cover, i know if that dont work then u get nowt from the fuel pump. also check your timing gear is actually working. having said that, why not just get a wire straight off the ign switch and feed it into the fuel relay yourself. might save time and hassle. |
| ID: 4636 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starting problems Question: hi wizard,just brought a phase 1with a dodgy starter motor,it was just clicking(solinoid me thought).on the way home the car just died on me.got it home checked the battery and it was dead(alternater not charging).right heres goes.ive replaced the starter motor and alternator but now when i turn the key nothing happens?not even a click from the soliniod,come on wizard cast me a spell to get me 5 back on tarmac,cheers Answer: have you checked to see that power is getting to the creamy white wire (solenoid feed) trace it back to the big connector, and see if it energises when u try and start it. btw im assuming you have put a new battery on, else it still won't start... |
| ID: 4637 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear brakes Question: Right o wizz Brakes are goiong soft and spongy then just lock up over a period of two weeks after a bleed through. when bleeding the only caliper with any air in is the passenger side rear. I have no bleed nipple left in tact on the calipers (originals) but they dont appear to be leaking. Has hjad a new master cy;inder in last 15k and uprated discs and pads all round. was told it could be the rear distributor? Answer: yeah it could well be the rear brake bias regulator (load compensating valve). you would be well advised to look at the pipework too, as this can corrode and leak over time. |
| ID: 4638 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo? Question: my speedo does not work? ive checked the back of the clocks,the connection next to the filter and taken out and checked the connection on the box,still nothing? any advice wouls be great! cheers wiz Answer: i suspect that the wires itself maybe fried. best way is to fit clocks that definately work to rule out your shady clocks! then look at the wires....nice and expensive from reno
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| ID: 4639 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: acceleration Question: just a quick one wizard, in 4th and 5th gear the car accelerates harder on part throtle than on full, on full trottle it splutters a bit and accelerats slowly lift off a tiny bit and it accelerates harder... do you know what could cause this Thanks Rich Answer: suggests to me u may be overfuelling perhaps (or even nor enuff fuel - do u have an uprated fuel pump- + what boost do u run?).... what set up is your carb? |
| ID: 4640 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gudgeon pin Question: ive just got all me parts for a rebuild and am gettin it alanced but they want the pistons off the rods and i need to know if there is any diy way if seperating them cheers Answer: when u separate the pistons from the rods, more often than not you end up funking up the pistons, cos u hav to press em!!! i think you may have to get new pistons if u really want it done.
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| ID: 4641 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tomcat BOV/Dumpvalve Removal Question: Dear Wiz, I have recently acquired a rather nice T25 Tomcat turbo that has no play in the shaft and no signs of the oil seals blowing so i'm a very very happy chappy (grins from ear to ear!). However, i am in the process of adapting it to fit on my 5 and have removed the 12psi Blow Off Valve (father suggested putting a 22pound spring in to stop it from blowing off until 22psi in which i looked at him with such disgust as though he had been shagging the dog.) and am in the process of creating a blanking plate from some 2mm thick steel, but....... this is where it starts to get fun. The existing gasket runs around the radius of the BOV. Should a i get/fashion up a gasket that covers the entire of the blanking plate thus covering the hole where the compressor housing exits to go to a boost hose (where the BOV blows out) or should i make do with the original Tomcat BOV gasket and hope to hell there is no leak from either side of the BOV wall on the compressor housing? Hope this makes sense as its quite hard to word. Cheers, Briz aka 'The' Bastard. Answer: just do what everyone else does. get your thick piece of steel, and some rubber mat- and sandwich mat between housing and steel plate. |
| ID: 4642 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head gasket Question: I believe i blew my head gasket from over heating ( i think). I have a standard 5 with standard intercooler with dumbvalve and induction kit, i run it on around 14psi. Would a manual fan switch help the problem of the car getting hot and therfor blwong the head gasket. Basically i cant afford an alloy intercooler. Answer: ahh leeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee glad you are enjoying your dumbvalve, whilst the some of us are enjoying our dump valves, and some who are better off are enjoying their blow off valves. ok ok ok, lets answer ur question headgasket probs, u may need a new radiator, or a low temp rad fan switch and thermostat. (try the thermostat and low temp rad fan switch first....about £10 each approx) this is assuming that overheating caused it to blow. if u are reading the boost off the standard gauge then it maybe wrong. check to see that your vacuum circuit to your dumbvalve is not leaking, this includes the tube from the manifold to the ignition unit. try sucking the pipe to the ignition unit, it should hold a vacuum easily. if u having to keep sucking then its funked. the manual fan switch is a bit of a bodge, but it can help if everything else goes wrong.....which it will! good luck!
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| ID: 4643 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: squeeking!!!! Question: What causes and how do stop front suspension from squeeking - its drivin me nuts!!! thanks Answer: spray wd40 on all your rubber bushes. then take off your shocks and dismantle them, making sure that everything is ok. any idea where exectly the sqeaking is coming from? |