| ID: 4457 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering Rack Question: Just a quick q if i changed the Steering rack would i then need to do the tracking? Answer: yes. |
| ID: 4458 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: quarter mile Question: hi wiz i have a magnex exhaust with restrictor cut out a piper cone filter a 350 t28 rollerbearing turbo from k tec running at 15 psi everything else is standard except suspention and wheels i went to york and got a 14.8 qm time going through at 97 mph is that good for this set up? ps what would u suggest to do to the car next to make it faster i think its 165 bhp at the mo? Answer: for 15psi that is ok. id get a group A carb, and turn the boost up to 20psi. - also strap the intercooler. should take it to near 200bhp. |
| ID: 4459 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: car wobbles Question: this smorning my car started to wobble as if i had a loose wheel and the gear shift was jumping around every where also there was and arnt any noises that i can hear can you help Answer: check the tightness of all the wheel nuts. then try and wobble thewheels by hand. left and right/up and down. then check tyre pressures. then open bonnet and start car, is engine moving alot when its idling?- i.e is the car not firing correctly? maybe some of your engine mounts have broken!!!- maybe more that one! - check them by jacking up engine/gearbox, and seeing if the metal ends have seperated from the rubber middle! |
| ID: 4460 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine mods Question: my engine is going to have to come out as theres a problem with the gearbox. I thought that this would be a good opportunity to add some mods like an uprated clutch, lightened flywheel and ktec cam shaft. I want to know if these mods will add noticable power to my car running 14psi on a nice running engine. And is there any other cheap mods to get while the engine is out?? Answer: cam change may well involve head off as well.... lightened flywheel will make a noticable difference. might as well swap your timing sensor wires whilst you are at it. thats about it really. |
| ID: 4461 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost creep?? Question: hello wizzie, my mint r5 is playing silly beggers im afraid, its totally standard in every respect, unfortunatly ive noticed the boost is slightly creeping above what its supposed to, basically on the motorway i went to overtake quickl i was in 4th i planted my foot and the turbo gauge went to the B on the standard gauge but after 3800 i noticed the needle slowly creeping towards the O on the gauge, is my actuator to week to hold boost? if so how do i replace the actuator? i.e does the turbo need to be removed to do so? thanks mr wiz Answer: see whether the actuator is welded to the actuator bracket first. if it is then it will be a bugger to get off. as you may have to remove the turbo. on the other hand you may have a leaky pipe, to the actuator. or even the odd metal pipe to the exhaust maybe blocked up or summat. |
| ID: 4462 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Juddering when boost applied. Question: Hi Wiz, When i accelerate hard and the boost starts to come on stong, as the boost bulids up the car tends to judder for a couple of seconds and then the boost comes back on. I thought i was running the boost too high, but i have turned it right down now and the problem is still there. Don't know if there is a leak in one of the pipes or it could be something to do with the fueling? Can you help? Cheers Answer: change the plugs/leads/dizzy cap and rotor first. then look at fuel filter. when was the last time the car had a 'good' service? |
| ID: 4463 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wont cool quick enough so have taken out the thermostat Question: Hi Wiz Ive just had a copper core rad fitted at EP and i had to take it back because it wasnt cooling as expected. Along with the rad i had a low temp rad switch and low temp (82 degrees) thermostat fitted. Problem was that the fan didnt come in until just under the 3/4 mark and then didnt affect the temp either. It remained the same. THat is until I was back on the open roads with a great deal more air flow. I was told that the thermostat was tested and worked ok - in the end they took the thermostat out and tested with just the rad switch which worked better. The thing is ive recently been reading about the effects of driving without a thermostat and i really did want one in my 5.........can u shine any light on this as myself and EP dont have any answers Thanks in advance Jamie Answer: i have had the same problem......which makes me wonder if kinked bottom rad pipework maybe to blame....or even the fact that the water temp sensor has little todo with the temp at the rad, in so much that the temp sensor and reading in the car reads what the water just outside the head is reading.... so maybe the sensor is starting to get old, and starting to get abit 'funny'...or even the unit in the dash could be getting abit old. just for reference, my fan comes on at approx 60° from the horixontal (approx 2/3 mark?) and then cools to just under it. also, you maybe running alot of antifreeze... drain it out, and run near pure water....see if it makes a difference, and then add antifreeze to required strength....it can affect radiator efficiency.. |
| ID: 4464 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1/8 mile accseleration Question: How long does the acceleration take in 1/8 mile with the standart gtt? What speed and etc? I tried but wondering is my results good  Thanks....Answer: best ask avantage from hungary this question, as im sure he will know the answer.- he competes in 1/8mile racing, which isnt that popular here. |
| ID: 4465 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Egt Question: Hi, I run 11 Psi on T2, The Egt gauge show me about 910 c .... ! the Manifold is to hot, like fire red color !! any idea !! the Fuel is ritch.. Thnks. Carlos. Answer: Hmm, EGT after the turbo should be more like 250C. Usual cause of excessive EGT is fuel too lean. I know you say it's rich, but have you got a garage with a gas analyser to check it? It's normal for the turbo to glow, but the manifold doesn't normally get beyond a dull red. Wiz. |
| ID: 4466 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: MOT failed Question: hi wiz failed mot yesterday so just wondering how i can sort these problems. the offside side light only works when the ignition is on so what could cause this? steering colum joint play, steering rack play so how can i sort this and also my passenger seat is very wobbly they said its the upright thats broke but the whole seat wobbles. cheers ps sorry for the essay. Answer: clean all the connectors that attach to the light, you may have to bodge it and wire across from the side that does light up properly. steering column play, could be two things. one is the universal joint at the bottom of the column, accessible from under the engine. and the other is the top bush actually in thte column itself. - hell it could even be one of the 4 bolts that hold the column to the car is loose! if the steering rack is defo gone, then replace it. but the broken UJ can give similar symptoms. check the two uprights at the back of the chairs....they bend down, and joint the rails...they always break here...especially if u are a lardy fecker! or it could just need tightening up at the front torx bolts that the chair hinges forwards on... |
| ID: 4467 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re shelling Question: Hi wizard My 5 getting more rusty by the month. Im looking to re shell all my turbo goodies! which out of the non turbo5 would make the reshell the easiest! do any non turbo 5s use a fuel injected pump like the turbo? Answer: i wouldnt bother...its a real ball ache, cos the rear susp is different too. just find a decent gt turbo shell minus an engine... |
| ID: 4468 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water injection or charge cooler Question: Hi wizard! Im looking to run around 18 psi day to day and around 25psi for play! which should i go for water injection or a charge cooler as i only can buy 1 of them at the mo? Answer: water injection. |
| ID: 4469 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: transplant Question: hi i have a r5 campus i wonna conversion 2 the turbo lump wat is involved ? or is there any other more powerful lumps that can go in it like a old skool clio 1.8 plz help thanks mike .... Answer: you will have to buy the hole lump, ecu, fuel pump and tank, etc etc...a real nightmare! i wouldnt bother with the 1.8 lump either cos its more of a nitemare than the r5 gtt lump is, to get to run! |
| ID: 4470 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch Question: there is this bloke on ebay selling so say group n clutches haow can i tell if they r the real thing and not some cheap junk and also he is selling uprated headgaskets any way of telling these aswell cheers Answer: there is no way to tell, as its all bullpoo about grp n clutchs and group z headgaskets. the headgaskets available from corteco meillor/payen/elring are good, thick and have adequate strength. - so u have to ask the seller what brand it is. if its 'victor reinz' i found these were abit weak, but i could of been unlucky. the clutch is a volvo 480 turbo pre 91 unit, always made by 'valeo'. anything else just aint the real deal. |
| ID: 4471 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: would it fit ?? Question: Hi Wiz a Garrett T25 off a Rover Coupe Turbo. Apparently these would fit onto a 5gtt, there's one on ebay now, cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10414&item=7927709502&rd=1 would this go straight on my 5 engine?? Cheers 'O clever one' Answer: yes... read this. http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.asp?ShowType=1&SortColumn=1&SortOrder=2&TimePeriod=2&BoardID=0&TopicID=32493 |
| ID: 4473 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stanless exhaust? Question: I seem to have to change my 5 campus exhaust all the time as it rusts! Is there anywhere or anyone that you know of that does a stanless one or could make one? and a cat replacement? Thank a lot Marc Answer: some places make a stainless exhaust on the car...like powerflow. they weld them on 'in situ'. |
| ID: 4474 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: knocks Question: when turning left AND right or around a roundabout im getting a very harsh Knock. which ever way im turning when the Knock occurs it slightly knocks the steering wheel in that same direction as well. whats is this most likely to be..? while im here (i know its alot) can you tell me all the parts i need to make my steering as new.! ie drive shafts,which gaiters,what track rod ends and the rest. just keepin ya on yer toes wazzy  ill be getting everything from gsf Answer: if ya change everything, then you will definately find the problem! for a new set up, you need new dampers,springs,top mounts,rubbers, wishbones, bottom ball joints, steering rack,tie rod ends and also steering universal joint. sounds like a ball oint could have gone btw. |
| ID: 4475 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: whats the crack Question: hello mate seen your can in mag on rollers wicked anyway just bought a new five whe hey but there is a slight problem which has me beat the lad i bought it off changed the turbo afterwhich we changed the oil and it was creamy ( i thought it was just condensation) but the oil was still creamy could it be that it needs flushed out theres no smoke, it runs fine, no pressure in water system, stays cool its got me beat ! Answer: either run some oil flush thru it or run some cheap oil thru a couple of times, to see if it comes out clean. get back to me on this one. |
| ID: 4476 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: the fuel pump wasn't working so i got another pump and hooked it up but no power wasn't getting 2 it so i bridge the relay and it work so i got a relay and put it and still wont work i bridge it again and it dont work what could it be????? cheers Answer: check the fuses and the wiring. maybe it an earthing problem. if you have an alarm with immobiliser, suspect this too. as they always go wrong. |
| ID: 4477 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: missfire and splutter Question: Hi, when i start the car i get an occational missfire then it stops(the missfire) , i have only just rebuilt the engine and have changed the leads,plugs,timing senso, dizzy cap and rotor arm while at it any ideas. Also when driving it seems to splutter then pick up again it feels like it is holding back then going ok for a few seconds then feels ok for a bit then starts again... Answer: does it get better when the car is warm?- does the car have the water hoses fitted to the manifold and the carburettor? im thinking there maybe too much fuel getting into the engine, and it aint being vapourised properly. also change yer fuel filter. |
| ID: 4478 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: In car controlled Amal bleed valve Question: hi my mate has his boost controlled with the amal valve on a switch in the car(it came like it when he got it) i would like to do the same how do i do this and wot do i need Answer: |
| ID: 4479 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch + accelorator pedal Question: my clutch pedal is really stiff and is really had to get bite point when settin off the car had been stud for 6 months before i got it and the accelorator pedal is the same can u help wizard thanks Answer: goto B&Q, get a bracket that holds up shelves....about 4mm thick steel, with holes down it. - painted a tasteful colour...about £2. then get an angle grinder and cut a piece off, and cut a slot lengthways from the edge along into one of the preformed screw holes (should also be bevelled so that screws dont stick up). then take off the clutch cable from the gearbox end. using a manifold stud screw the bracket onto the top of the clutch fork. use manifold nuts to secure. then slip the clutch cable end into the slot, so that it rests in the preformed and bevelled hole. then inside the car remove the clutch pedal plastic stopper, that stops the pedal rising too high, and grind abit away with the angle grinder...then replace. it means the pedal will sit alittle higher, but you have a slightly softer pedal, without taking the gearbox off. it works a treat *lol*
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| ID: 4480 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Banjo Snapped! Question: Hello sir I've been waiting nervously until I could come up with a question to ask!! I was carefully trying to cure an oil leak and I snapped the above in the process! To do the job right I'm going to buy all new copper washers for the surrounding area as well as a new connector, however do you know the torque setting for the bolt that goes through to the block?? I grow tired of breaking things! Any other pointers would be appreciated. And it was going so well on my 50 mile round trip everyday to work! Hope you can help, regards Jamie Answer: just tighten it up so it starts to nip the copper washers! if it leaks when you start the car up, nip it up again! |
| ID: 4481 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oily Bottom Question: Hello again The classic yet beautiful example of a turbo that I've bought has been producing oil from the lower half of the engine for a little while now and it's not going down too well at the work car park! I've seen bottom end gasket kits but am not ready to take the engine out yet, so I was wondering how much I can cure exactly without having to remove the block. Many thanks to the contacts I've already made but if you know anyone in the Oxfordshire region who might be able to compare notes with me it'd be most appreciated. Thank you again for your time, regards Jamie Answer: goto members, and check out everyone in your postcode. you need to wipe the whole are clean and run the car, and see where it is leaking from again. there are only really a few places. favourites: the sump plug- fit a new washer. the sump seal - remove sump and fit new horseshoe seals and reseal. the crank seal - fit new one if its the timing cover end. (if its the flywheel end then its engine out time.) the rocker cover- this can leak quite badly-fit a new seal. you really need to look and see what part of the car the leak is from....where is it dripping from over the sump? or is it the gearbox?- is it engine or gbox oil? |
| ID: 4482 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure / squirt! Question: Hello again I get a nice constant oil pressure reading of 4bar whilst driving but I can see me oil cooler to radiator lines are starting to perish a little and don't want them to die too soon. Any pointers?? I got a quote from Renault and they want £45 per pipe! I am also considering hose specialists but they have not beaten £45 per pipe yet. I guess the pump decides the pressure, but is it possible and safe to run a lower pressure to relieve the engine a little? As ever, I look forward to your reply! Thank you, regards Jamie Answer: dont worry about the oil pipes, i have never seen them break yet. well, besides mine which started to leak where the metal piece was crimped onto them. you want the pump to have more pressure not less!- else the turbo, shells will break! |
| ID: 4483 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil leak Question: hi wiz i have mot on 5 nov i have quite a bad leak its coming from the drivers side of the sump is it a crank oil seal or what? what else could it be?if it is do i have to take the engine out to fix it?will it pass a mot on an oil leak? Answer: its the crank oil seal, ot the horseshoe seal directly under it. change the crank seal, and cover the horseshoe seal in sealant!!! |
| ID: 4484 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: missfire/splutter Question: the miss fire goes away after a few minuites the splutter only starts to happen when hot(about 3/4 on the guage) then eventualy goes away, some times happens once the car has been stopped for a bit then splutters like hell til the turbo cuts in at 3000 rpm Answer: sounds like you may need a carb refurb. buy the refurb kit, and fit it yourself, paying particular attention to the idle mixture screw seal, and the idle jet itself. |
| ID: 4485 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rolling Road Question: Would you happen to know where abouts the rolling road is in Leicester...I know its Thurmaston and they do a power run every month cheers Answer: http://www.race-cars.co.uk/marque/marque.html http://www.on-lineleicester.com/matrixMotorSports.asp i am the don |
| ID: 4486 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tappets Question: Just a quick question i can hear the tappets when the engine is idling - what would i need to do to stop the noise. Are they easy/hard to replace.. Would it cause more damage if i left it alone as the noise is not really that loud.. cheers Answer: they just need adjusting. look at haynes manual. |
| ID: 4487 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil Question: do i have to take out the engine to change the crank oil seal is it a hard job how much does the crank oil seal cost? Answer: which crank oil seal?- as technically as there are two end to the crank, you have to seals....... the one hidden by the crank pulley is easy. the one behind the flywheel is a right MOFO, as you need to take the engine out. the crank seals are less than a tenner each. |