| ID: 4336 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: More Fuel ! Question: Hi Wizard, The fuel Pressure gauge on Idle 11 Psi !! a black smoke out from the exhaust !! would the Fuel pump gives a lot of pressure, the fuel pump from Audi 80 Bosch ! Answer: is the black smoke appearing when you accelerate hard? if it is you need to reduce the size of the main jet slightly. |
| ID: 4337 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: heater fan Question: My interior heater/ blower was making a nasty noise so I took it out and greased it up, put it back in accordingly... Now it doesnt work at all! Any ideas? Answer: clean the contacts, or buy a new one.... |
| ID: 4338 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: new clutch with out takin the lot out Question: is it ok to drop passenger side sub frame, and slide box across, and work in the gap or is this more hassel than other ways as i have no engine lift Thanks Pritch Answer: if u have no engine lift then this is the only way to do it. have fun getting the gearbox back on, and also remember to disconnect the steering column from the rack, else u could end up with a disjointed steering column!!! allow a good 10hrs for it 
|
| ID: 4339 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: BHP?? Question: Alright WIZ Ive just recently added a few mods to my gtt engine and was wondering what sort of bhp it would be and what sort of psi I could push it to with out blowin anything up, its got: In car adj boost Strapped Intercooler GroupA carb: 130main,90ac GroupA Head gasket set Piper285 Port polished an gas flowed, valves widend, head skimmed. k-tek full system exhaust JR filter in standard air box Standard T2 Turbo Ta Mate Answer: the limiting factor here is the t2 turbo...you start pushing more than 15psi and it will reduce its lifespan. also there wont be adequate cooling with that size turbo, really to run much bigger boost. so at 15psi you would probably be looking at between 150-170bhp. its a bit vague, but thats about as good as it gets. |
| ID: 4340 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: t25/2 Question: hi wiz, i've picked up a t25 from a nissan. it's got an exhaust ar of .63 which i'm told will limit the max boost and be laggy. can i take the exhaust housing from my t2 and put that on with an ar of .48? cheers Answer: you are forgetting that the exhaust turbine wheel will not physically fit inside the exhaust housing of the standard t2. the blades are just too big. try the tomcat one as suggested. you need very little gap, else it wont work properly! |
| ID: 4341 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: juddering when braking Question: hi there my car has bin off he road for just over two months while i was doing some work then took the car for a steady drive and when braking the steering wheel judders really sharp? thanx Answer: judders? is one of yer wheels deflated?- are your discs really rusty or covered in oil/grease? define juddery...
|
| ID: 4342 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: headlights Question: when I turn the arm for the lights one click, my sidelights come on. When I turn it again for the full lights they go out (the passenger one glows a little. What can I do? Answer: take it to an autoelectrician. it sounds a nightmare. personally id check all the earths are ok, as corrosion is a 5's best friend these days  then start callin that auto elec!!!- assuming your light switch is ok....if u see what i mean. |
| ID: 4343 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Missfire on start up / Backfire upon switch off Question: When I start my car from COLD, it fires up straight away but then I get a missfire until the engine has warmed up. After driving and turning off the engine, I get a backfire from the exhaust. I've recently had a head skim, multi angle valves, new gasket etc along with new liner seals, re-ground crank and new shells etc as I was getting mayo in the header tank and was assured that this would resolve the problem. The mayo's gone but it still backfires. Its also had new leads, cap, plugs etc but is getting very frustrating as the car runs fine apart from this. I woud be eternally grateful for any words of wisdom to resolve the problem before I kill the owner of the tuning company. Answer: i think the back fire and rough running are down to one thing only. the carburettor. there is too much fuel going into the carb at low revs....they have probably put too bigger 1st stage enricher in there with an overly large main jet.- in cold weather the fuel doesnt vapourise properly and can wet the plugs.... and when you turn the engine off, there is soo much fuel lurking in the engine/exhaust area it backfires. sort the carb and this will stop. |
| ID: 4344 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil pressure Question: Hi wizard, I havent Oil restrictor 4 the turbo in my car. can i fit Oil inlet restrictor of the T series, its .060 hole size !! or i just need another size !? can u plz tell me what should be the hole size oil inlet 4 the standart T2 !!? Many Thanks, Answer: the bigger the hole the better. do not restrict the oil flow to the turbo in any way- else you will kill the turbo! |
| ID: 4345 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: would they fit? Question: alright mate could u plz tell me if the r5gtt master cylinder, sevro n calipars are the same as the r11 turbos? thank wiz. Answer: goto the gsfcarparts.com website and enter both cars into it. i did and came up with your answers. master cylinder is the same- but you will end up with a citroen ax one. i dont think the calipers are the same though. for further info ask DaveL485 from coventry, as i know he knows too much about these matters.... |
| ID: 4346 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: What the hell is this??? Question: Hey there Mr Wizard, i'm currently in the process of putting the wiring back into my engine bay after an engine rebuild and i have a couple of questions i hope you can help me with. Firstly, there is a resisor thingy on the bracket that the pinking sensor and timing sensor wires attach to, could you please tell me what this resistor is for. There are also two orange wires coming from the battery bay area, one going around the right side and one around the left side of the engine. They both have a little rubber ball thing on them. Could you please tell me what these wires are for. Hope you can help cause the electrics have been doing me in. Cheers Answer: some poeple say the green resistor is todo with the antiperc fan, others say its for the headlamps...personnaly im not sure - there is a thread on the board talking about this though. what i do know is that the two orangey wires are for the brake wear sensors. i.e they aint really needed. |
| ID: 4347 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Airfilter Question: Hi just a quick Q i was just servicing the airfilter and noticed in the case where the airfilter sits, there was bits of the flap that opens where air is drawn in. It was in a few pieces i was wondering what damage this would cause as it must have been broken for a while. Just wanted to know on performance etc what this would cause to happen if this flap didn't exist as in my case being broken. Is there a way round this as it has broken before is there an aftermarket solution? Answer: dont worry about the broken bits, as they shoul be inside the airfilter- which of course shouldnt let any bits thru it! as for what to do....take the hot air feed off from below the turbo, get a 50mm bore air feed pipe, and feed it from the front of the car into where the hot air feed pipe used to go... so u get nice cold air feed at all times to the turbo. |
| ID: 4348 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Starter Motor Question: Hi, Was wondering that my starter motor needs replacing i have checked all wires and they are corrosion free. JUst need to check the solenoid one on the starter motor. bit frustrated though cuz in the haynes manual it says the starter is accessable after removing the air box etc but i cant c it..... CAn you talk me through replacing it as it not on the maintenance section as is the replacement of a alternator..pls help Answer: follow the large group of wires hidden in the metal case that sits ontop of the gearbox. you have to reach under the turbo, as it is actually at the back of the engine. its held on by 3 16mm bolts and sometimes a 13mm bolt on a bracket at the back of the block. it is hard to explain if u have nevere even seen the starter before, as you will not know what the hell im talking about. eg: 1)disconnect battery. 2)take off air box. 3)reach under turbo round to back of starter and take off solenoid feed and the two big leads via the single 13mm bolt. 4)undo 13mm bolt on bottom/back of starter if bracket is present. 5)undo the 3 16mm bolts holding it to the gearbox. 6)pull starter off and feed it thru the gap under the turbo crossover pipe (assuming you aint got an enlarged one)- you should now have it in your hand! |
| ID: 4349 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Perculation fan Question: Hi, My perculation fan used to work but has stopped working for a while... i have checked wired and the one that sits under the carb had melted together however i have seoerated the wires and all appear to be ok. However i have joined the 2 wires together ones on top of the heat shield and if you hold them together u get nothing but if u touch them quickly on/off then you get a clicking noise coming from the block that sits near the carburetor - the one with the thin boost hoses in it, u know the one i mean?? However the fan does not come on and the fuse appears ok...Any thing i can check and why do u think its making a clicking noise when touching these wires?? Answer: check to see that the actually motor in the anti perc fan is ok. the block that sits near the carb is part of the anti perc system, and it allows the anti perc fan to blow clean air into the engines intake system to clear out oily vapours- and hence aid easy starting.- which is why most people block it off and get rid of it *lol* you may have fried the wires alittle further along the line....as the wires you are talking about go all the way back down to the alternator! best check that too! |
| ID: 4350 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil pressure low Question: i have a '90 gtt thats covered 86k it has been previously tinkered with, my question or rather worry is that after a n oil change the oils pressure reading is around 4 at start up and grdually drops once warm only at idle it sits at at 0.5 now i understand this is very low and is concerning me, upon acceleration it rises ok but i am a little worried, can you help? Answer: it could be a very dodgy gauge, in which case its probably best to get an after market one and check off that first, rather than write yer car/ oil pump off first. |
| ID: 4351 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Exhausts Question: Just a quick question u now the bit that comes of the airfilter that goes into the exhaust pipe the metal one i have noticed that the metal bit leads into the engine bit and has nothing at the other end of it is this normal?? i thought it leads into the exhaust or something...?? Answer: no there is nothing on the end of it, as it collects warm air from under the turbo..... |
| ID: 4352 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: engine wiring loom Question: hi wiz im in need of a wiring loom its the one that goes from under header tank to starter,alternator and perc fan with relays any suggestions Answer: renault, assuming they still have some. i have a newish one i was going to copy, until i found out that the real cost lies with the connectors, you can make the wires up relatively easily...its the connectors are the ball ache! |
| ID: 4353 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Electrical Question: Hi regarding the startter motor problem which was a bitch to locate under the car .... however i have still not managed to remove fom car which is in a right awkward place... i am trying top avoid removing the starter. 1) Ok so far i have checked the Body earch lead and sprayed wd40 on it looks ok no breaks. 2) I have checked the dreaded wires under the coolant bottle they appear ok no water or corrosion on them. 3) I am yet to check the solenoid and battery live on starter motor if i can get it out . Would u suggest removing the driver side driveshaft or any other hints....as i'm gettig very frustrated4) I have also noticed near the Perculation fan that there are two relys things i have taken them off and the one nearest the light clicks when i turn the key but the one on the left doesn't....pls advise is it supposed to?? what is the purpose of these how would u know they were faulty and cause the car not to start......is it this causing the starting prob's??? Do renault do replacements as they are the bottom bits that come off like they are attached to a wire connected to the car, how can i check these?? Back to starting car still starts if it is push started in second gear. Lastly a few days ago the car was starting after it would cool down but this is not the case any more and just basically all u hear upon turning the key is the click was evry time the key is turned near the relay near the perculation fan.... Hope all this info is helpful to any one with similar probs... hear from u soon.. Answer: look pal, just remove the starter, its obviously knackered
|
| ID: 4354 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Stalling at idle Question: Hi, My car is having terrible idling problems and it's really getting me down to the point where i can't drive my car! As soon as i take my foot of the accellerator the engine just cuts out, as soon as i apply the slightest pressure to the accelerator pedal the engine picks up again. This is right pain when i stop at a junction because i'm constantly starting the car all of the time, and when i'm going slow through town it just rocks loads! The car has never been a perfect idler, but at least it used to idle, but it was very lumpy. I have recently bought a new group 'a' carb body from k-tec racing, an adjustable timing sensor from gt tuning and a side exit exhaust system from ktec racing, ever since these purchases my car has had this problem. I thought that the mixture screw was shagged, and it was, so i bought a reconditioned base for the carburettor but the problem did not go away. I have also adjusted the timing sensor to different positions but still no change! Is it a fuel problem or timing problem? The car runs fine past 2k revs, i have had the idling screw all the way in but the engine will still cut out unless i press the accelerator pedal! Please help me, i really don't want to bring it down to a garage to get fixed, it seems like such a simple problem! Yours faithfully, Dan P.S. Sorry the message was so long, i just wanted to give you as much information as i could. Answer: change your timing sensor for a new one...or just check that the old one aint fried! then check to see that carn aint spat the mixture screw out!- located pointing upwards at an angle on the drivers side of the carburettor.- near the base.- should be a screw in there. could also be cr ap in the carb, which needs flushing out. take one can wd40 with straw. undo big brass screw on drivers side of carb, put straw in as far as it will go....squirt 2 x 20secs..the put screw back in. if that dont do it, then u may need to rebuild carb- buy a gasket set. |
| ID: 4355 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Heatshield Question: Hi, It looks as if my starter motor does not have a heat shield on it...even if it did then i can't see how this protects heat going from the exaust cuz the heat shield covers all this together?????huh...any ways i phoned reno up and they say they do not have a starter motorheat shield listed for GGT ??? know anywhere i can get one..... Also do u know where i can get a sensor that sits on top of the turbo heat shield....AS Reno quoted me £45 + VAT.... Answer: renault is the only place for the sensor. the heatshield over the starter motor is different to the one over the turbo!- the starter motor one attaches to the back of the block and covers only the starter motor. |
| ID: 4356 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: carb / not starting Question: hey whiz, what do you think of this one? i ripped apart the carb and carb manifols and basicly the whole back of the engine to replace the manifold gasket, however seen as the carb was out i thought id buy a carb kit from k - tec and re new all the gaskets and so on .... (what a fool i was) so the cars back together and suprise suprise it wont start. the problem is this... theres fuel going into the cab/chamber there is fuel being pumped into the venturi when accelerator pressed there is a spark from spark plugs but. the car keeps on chugging and will not turn over. after constent attemps at starting there is a load poping noise coming from the carb and echo ing from exhast there doesnt seem to be any petrol going to spark plugs. any ideas? i took out a lot of hoses is it possible ive placed one wrong or do you thing ive fecked the carb with my attempted overhaul. thanks mate Answer: Sounds like you have the acclerator pump working (this is what you can see squirting fuel down the venturi when you press the accelerator) - but you don't have the main fuelling circuits working. Check for blockages in the idle jet, main jet and emulsion tube. As you've dismantled and reassembled the carb, it's quite likely it's picked up a bit of dirt along the way if you've not been too careful. |
| ID: 4357 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: how much boost Question: hi wizard could you tell how much psi i can run my car at, also how far can i rev it without blowing it up, my car has the following, Pace alloy intercooler, samco boost hoses, green induction kit, bailys dump valve, cooper core rad, low temp fan and thermostat, bb tunning uprated head gasket and high tensile bolts, full scorpion 4"" exhaust system, high output alternator, group N clutch, cup mod done, in car bleed valve for boost, the engine done 121000 but still runs strong with no smoke at all. The turbo is going to be changed soon so it doesnt need to last long, also what size carb jets and air corrector do i need to run your sugested boost level. cheers mate. thanks marc ps what brake do you think it should be putting out. Answer: for a standard t2 run it at 18psi with a 130main jet (assuming you have standard carb)- should see 140-150bhp. that way turbo should last a little longer than if you wanged it up to 22psi! |
| ID: 4358 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: mixture Question: My car cut out recently as the idle was too low when stopped. instead of turning the idle screw i turned the mixture screw, the problem has stopped but now don't know if i am running rich, lean or just right. is it a case of looking at the spark plugs? what colour are they when they are rich? lean? and the right setting? Answer: Best way is to use an exhaust gas analyser - either take it along to a local garage and ask them to check the emissions, or if you're going to be doing this a lot, consider buying a cheap analyser. Other methods are the Gunson's Colortune - basically a sparkplug with a window in it. So you can see what colour the flame in the cylinder is. You can use this to check the combustion is at it's optimum. Spark plug colour isn't a very accurate indicator of a/f ratio on the GTT, due to the high temperatures and imprecise nature of a carburettored turbo engine. |
| ID: 4359 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Low Oil pressure Question: Having problems with low oil pressure, I have now replaced the oil pump, new filter & oil (using Castol RS 10/60). When started from cold pressure reads 4-5, I have a mechanical guage fitted as well this reads 45-50PSI. But after 10-15minutes warm up and a little use of the turbo the oil pressure drops to less than 10PSI. There's no smoke coming out the exhaust or oil in the water what else can be causing the low pressure?. Thanks Answer: do you have the one way valve still in the line to the turbo? this boosts theline pressure about 1 bar i heard. failing that your shells could be getting worn.... this causes low pressure too. also, try using 15w40 oil- like magnatec, and see what happens |
| ID: 4360 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: No turbo?? Question: My car has gradually faded in performance my m8z that i should be beatin e.g 1.8 16v clio/ 205 gti started nailing me like they've got n extra gear! Now things have got worse there is no boost at all, the car is well slow (milkfloat stylee acceration) it goes about 50mph at a push, every now n then on idle loads of smoke poors out of the exhaust n the turbo is blowin at the joins! I rekon the turbo is defo gone but is nethin else damaged? Answer: could be a large hle in the boost circuit...holed pipe /intercooler etc etc. either that or the turbo is boogered. |
| ID: 4361 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: magnex systems Question: wiz,ive been told that my magnex sytem is pretty restrictive and there is a plate of some kind or a noise limiter which when removed improves the flow!i have it of the car at the moment and ive looked everywhere and can find nowt,any info...ta Answer: the restrictor is in the straight section of pipe. undo the two parts and thoroughly check the ends of the pipes..the restrictor is there! |
| ID: 4362 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Transmission losses. Question: Alrite Sparky, Just had my car rolling road tuned and it recorded 165bhp & 170Ib/ft @ wheels on 22psi boost. How much does this equate to at the flywheel? Answer: add about 25% |
| ID: 4363 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: pressure in the water hose Question: hello mr wizard, dont know if its a prob or not, but after i switch the engine off after a drive im getting pressure in the water hose that runs from the pump to the rad. someone told me it mite be the head gasket?? but its got 77k on the clock and only ever been run on std boost, with a full service hist?? thanks Answer: does the car run at normal temparature?maybe ur pressure release cap on the header tank isnt operating properly... |
| ID: 4364 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: INDICATORS!!!!!! Question: my 5 is due for mot and the indicators have just gone titsed up on me.when i flick the left indicator on it flashes very fast but does not do it when i flick it right. the rear light flashes but very fast and the side and front indicator do not work. i have checked the bulbs and wires and they seem to be ok. please help! cheers... Answer: put the hazards on, and see which bulbs are out. then clean the contacts the bulbs sit in and replace them. this should work! |
| ID: 4366 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: bleeding brakes Question: alright wiz jus 2 quick question in what order should i bleed my brakes? When pressing the brakes they are nice n solid but when the pedal goes half way down im getting a clucking noise then the pedals goes to the floor,any ideas mate? thanks alot!! Amo Answer: No particular order really, never made a difference to me.... As for your pedal, that sounds unhealthy. I would think about changing the master cylinder.... Maybe try pressure bleeding the whole system first. |