| ID: 4306 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: I.P.C for r5 gtt part 2 Question: I.P.C stands for illistrated parts catalouge. i kno u can get them for most cars but not sure bout the 5. Answer: hmmm, do you mean the copy of the dialogsys that renault use? it has pictorial views and part numbers on them. if so a few peeps have them on this site, and may copy them for you if u ask nicely. |
| ID: 4307 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering bits Question: Hi just a quick question, my steering wheel is moving up n down and left and right... am i right in thinking the top n bottaom bushes need replacing... if so would you suggest changing the steering gaitor i assume this should be accessable when chaging bushes... pls how would you know the gaitor needed chaning what sort of problems would it cause. cheers sat Answer: dont bother with the gaiter, just sort the bushes. |
| ID: 4308 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: need more bhp Question: i was at usc at the weekend and i was running 18-20psi my best time was 14.5secs at 93mph most the others where around 15.035secs 95mph. i have alot done already i was hoping it was 200bhp is this the times i should be getting if it was???? what is the next step to run more bhp, engine rebuild????low comp pistons???is the standard bottom end poor for 200bhp+???? Answer: sounds like you need more grip to me. next step for big bhp, is either a freer flowing exhaust, a bigger turbo (how big is a mad4it 230?- t25/t2?) and of course a cam, which you dont say u have. the standard bottom end is fine for 200bhp...in fact its good for 300bhp too. *lol* |
| ID: 4309 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual ball bearing GT28R Question: Hi again Wizard, I have checked the actuator, its moves on 8 Psi, and the the Boost cant get more that 8 Psi, I have removed the air filter out, nothing changed. the exhaust housing of this Turbo is T25.. Any more Idea ! Thanks, Answer: maybe its just me, isnt 8psi abit low for the actuator to even think about moving?- most people have 14psi springs in the actuator, which mean you will probably have to change yours. |
| ID: 4310 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering uj Question: I am planning to do the top bottom bushes on the steering column, i also have the uj that i'm fitting is this all accessable from inside the car as the instructions on the articles page only refers to bushes. I hope the uj can be fitted from inside the car with no problems.. pls advise.. Answer: uj can only be fitted from inside the engine bay, well last time i did it. not too hard, just need two 13mm spanners. |
| ID: 4311 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: weird stalling Question: hi there, just got an E reg phase 2 gtt, (seen better days) and the first problem has risen its ugly head. The best way to describe it is its like a fuel cut defender kicking in, does it in 1st 2nd and 3rd. the engine lack power then suddenly takes off, it simply stops accelerating for a while as if its seized then goes again, dont think its head gasket turbo etc cos when i floor it in 4th from 30mph it winds up and accelerates perfectly smoothly to around 70mph, quite quickly aswell. Its not plugs leads or dizzycap, as i changed all that today. This problem is only occasional. I am intending to spuce the car up progressivly changing most wearable parts. Any ideas on this problem cheers from ross Also any pointers on a fuel filter change major service this weekend! Answer: change the filter and see what happens. lets hope u got the larger ph2 style one on there. look next to fuel pump, about 1 foot infront of drivers side rear wheel, unclip the filter and clamp hoses either side. get petrol in eye and swear alot. check to see if the carb accelerator pump circuit is working- does seesaw thingy move on drivers side of carb when you first accelerate?- held onto carb by 4 screws....could be a problem. you will prob need to clean carb out anyway, and perhaps check timing sensor for faults/breaks/burns etc etc. then get back to me. |
| ID: 4312 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual ball bearing GT28R Question: Hi, I have asked now, this actuator start moving at .5 Bar, like 8 Psi.... Answer: change your actuator. put one off a sierra cosworth on it. the one you have got on there at the moment is too weak. |
| ID: 4313 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ignition advance Question: hey wiz, thanks for the help on the cam issue  i have water inj and want to run high boost 20+psi. can i advance the ignition? and by how much? many thanks.Answer: try 4° first of all, then in 1° increments. you will need it rolling roaded really, to set it up. |
| ID: 4314 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cam retard Question: hey wiz. what will be the effects if i retard the cam? how much should it be by? high boost water inj as well. many thanks Answer: try 4° retard, no more!!! this pushes the torque figure upwards, which nicely coincides with larger turbo spool up periods. |
| ID: 4315 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cam Question: cheers wiz yea the turbo is a t25/t2 its not very good to be honest think it fully winds up at about 4000rpm i was thinking of selling and getting a better 1. which cam would u advise on getting and how much would it be????? are they hard to fit???? Answer: ring piper/kent or one of the tuners for the cams, they vary in price £100 upwards. or if u really want to you can design your own. they are pretty tricky to fit, as the cam lives in the block, and you have to somehow stop the cam followers from dropping into the block!!! |
| ID: 4316 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head gasket Question: Hi mate, do you know real good top quality head gasket for my 5, as i have ripped through 2 (so called uprated) in as many months!!! oh er Head is flat etc etc!, bolts ols one was from gt tuning uprated gasket 12.9 bolts at 64 torque. and would 9 thou on a head skim make my car run slightly hotter? thanks again mate Adam Answer: hmm not sure what 9 thou is in mm, but if its much below 72.5mm thickness, the head could be over skimmed. the headgaskets you have been running are fine. it will be lack of fuel, too high inlet charge temp, or too much advance that it causing the blow ups. check carb jets, and then check d/v for leaks and the 'ufo' on the ecu to see if the diaphragm is ok. |
| ID: 4317 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lumpy Idling Question: Hi, I have recently fitted a group 'A' carb, adjustable timing sensor and side exit exhaust onto my car from k-tecracing and it has improved performance dramatically! The problem that I have now though is lumpy revs below 2k RPM. This is a real pain because you can't drive slow without the car rocking back and forth! I have tried moving the sensor back to it's original position like the old factory one and retarding it to what the instructions say to do but the results turned out negative. Is there anyway that you know to solve this problem, is it ignition problems or mixture adjustment? If it is mixture adjustment where should the screw be roughly? P.S. The car runs fine above 2k, no backfires or anything! Cheers! Answer: retarding the ignition will cause crap low rpm pick up. the idle mixture screw if on the drivers side of the carb, at an angle pointing upwards, close to the carb base. - if the thing has been blown out then it will cause dodgy idling. |
| ID: 4318 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: split hoses Question: hi wizz, I have had 5 hoses split this week! I went to usc this weekend the car was getting hot all the way there (the fan was running most of the time),it split one hose on the way and two on the way back, since then the inlet to carb keeps splitting. I have checked for blockages and everything seems fine, also I bleed the system properly everytime. The only things I have changed on the car before the problems was readjusting the valve clearance and swapping the timing leads for 3 degrees of advance. I have always had a problem with oil mixing with water in the header, been running it like that for the last two years with no problem, just needs flushing every month or two, I think its the head, its not rad or turbo I'm 90% sure. Any Ideas why my coolant hoses have started to give up??? The car usualy runs cool, with stat fitted. Answer: maybe the hoses are getting pressurised, or the oil in water u mentioned it wrecking the rubber that the hoses ae made from. or they are just giving up the ghost cos they are old..... |
| ID: 4319 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fit Turbo Question: Hi Wizard, Renault 5 1989, 1700cc Engine, Whats the Best way To set Turbo! Remove the Injection and to set a GTT Carb !! on full acceleration there is no Fuel that car cutting, and on full gaz there is no Fuel ! its not the 4 Injectors !! can u advise me if i can fit the turbo with this injection or not ! many Thanks, Answer: if the engine is out of the volvo 480 turbo, then it will probably have a fuel cut off, if you have used the complete wiring loom, then you are definately in for problems, and your best bet is to speak to the volvo 480 turbo boys, to get an idea of the problems. |
| ID: 4320 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fit turbo Question: Hi, the same Engine of Renault 19 1700 cc , 1990-1992 i Think , injection Like carb, This Car with the Original Engine, no one change engine there! Any idea if i'll fit Fuel regulator of that will solve the fuel cutting !! or to fit a GTT carb !! Answer: is it a turbo? if it isnt, then you had better speak to a fuel injection specialist, as it could be alot of things. |
| ID: 4321 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Weird stalling #2 Question: Hello again, put up a post about my R5 stalling like a fuel cut defender had kicked in. You told me to check the timing sensor (bein done tomorrow) but could the problem come from having a failty knock sensor as my sensor fell apart today. cheers from ross Answer: a faulty knock sensor, will cause the car to run 6° retard, which will make it seem alittle flat on take off, it shouldnt make it stall. |
| ID: 4322 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost cutting Question: yea my 5 been doing somethin it shouldn't be when i put my foot down in 3rd 4th or 5th as the turbo winds up it starts back firing and cutting the boost at about 13 to 16 psi and holding back the boost but then suddenly geos to 20 where it should go straight too. i thought it might be somethin to do with the boost sensor on the turbo to intercooler pipe the wires are not connected but it seems like its getting a weak connection some how???? what do you think could it be?? lacking fuel or air?? the thing is when i put my foot down going through the gears it deosn't do it only when the turbo has to wind up. and sometimes it deos it really bad and most times it deosn't????? Answer: have u got a rev limiter connected?- if so then disconnect it. could be faulty. also make sure the overboost sensor wires are not earthing out on anything. |
| ID: 4323 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Overheating Question: My R5 overheats way to fast for comfort, it hits the top end of the tempature gauge within five minutes of running. i replaced the head gasket as a precaution how ever now and then there was no oil water mix. the water pump, cooling fan and intercooler seem 2 be fine. what else can it be? (if you say the top end is knackered i am going 2 cry!) Answer: bleed the water system properly. make sure you have a low temp rad fan switch, and make sure that the pipes that join the water pump are actually attached properly and are not split. i hope you have a new rad, cos they get funked very easily. |
| ID: 4324 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bottom Ball Joint Question: Hi Wiz.... My local mechanic has changed the bottom ball joints on my car due to c..p handling...basically they were really worn...this has improved handling dramatically and i woud recommend this the anyone. However i have noticed the old ones had a small thin plastic removable protective bit on them... would you really need this on the new ones...... i don't fancy going back and asking him to open it all up again just to put this on...what's it purpose i.e stopping rain, dust getting into the ball joint....and would you change it?? Is there an easy way to access the balljoint to add this on or shall i not bother... it was just that i don't fancy changing balljoint few month's down the line just because water has got into them and knackered them... cheers. Sat.... Answer: dont bother with the plastic bit, it just stops the bottom of the hub rubbing on the balljojnt. you will probably knacker the balljoint by attempting to refit this anyway. |
| ID: 4325 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Spring Rate Question: Hi, Do you know, or know who would know, what the spring rate is of the front coil springs? Thanks Malcolm. Answer: hmm, i dont know personally, but you got a couple of links... one, try renault, unlikely but you never know. the other is a coil spring manufacturer, such as lesjofors, or suplex, and ask for the technical dept. also try APB or ABP in crewe, as i know they make springs, any drop and rate you want.- they should know what standard is surely.... |
| ID: 4326 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo sensor gearbox Question: Hi Wiz, me again, Firstly this nail of an R5 is comin together nicely, but ive got a speedo problem, when I got the car the speedo went round but when i was doin 20mph on speedo I was goin more like 40mph, I bought a full speedo cable from r5 spares fitted it and now ive got nothing at all. Ive check the electrical connections in engine and dash so i think the problem is in the box, I probably put the sensor in wrong. Ive checked all posts on here before askin but i need to know the right way to fit the sensor into the box and if there is anything to look out for. Also when i took the old sensor out the box gearbox oil came out is this normal or is the box knackered! Any help muchos appreciatos!!! cheers from ross Answer: make sure that you have the tab on the speedo sensor, fitted into the cut out on the box. im not sure whether the gearbox oil is gonna come out..... |
| ID: 4327 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: heater control resistor Question: Wiz could u tell me exactly where this is behind the dashboard as i think mine is broken. Cheers Answer: open the bonnet, remove the scuttle tray cover. then remove the black grill over the interior fan. then pull the fan out. get a torch, and shine into space left, you can see the resistor off to the drivers side, beneath the 'plastic grill'. so u got two options, remove the entire dash, and centre console, or chop the grill open and get to it that way..... |
| ID: 4328 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Seats Question: Hi I took both my seats off yesterday and fixed what was missing i.e bolts etc... Managed to bolt the passenger side on upon screwing one of the driver side front bolts it appears that the mount or whatever it is in the hole has come off and the bolt is just spinning... is there any way around this...pls help mate As sorting a problem has caused more of a problem. Is there any way from the underneath of the car etc it can be fixxed to the body work again. Sat... Answer: there are two holes in the carpet, that lead to the underside of the seat fixing rail. the captive nut has broken, so you need to buy some new ones and replace them. then everything should be ok. |
| ID: 4329 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: picture Question: hi wizard have u got any pics off the carb on a r5 becouse i i think i got my pipes mickeds up bigtime can u help Answer: look thru the files section of the site..or even.... check this out http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=128 |
| ID: 4330 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Decreasing Boost Question: Last year I had a bleed valve fitted so the boost would run at 14.5 psi. Worked fine up until about two/three months ago. Since then the boost has dropped off gradually so that it has less boost now than when I started. When I start the car after resting, The boost seems to be better but not as it was before. Now, when it is running warm there is hardly any surge at all. The setting of the bleed valve has not been altered. Any ideas? Answer: clean out the pipes that goto the bleed valve, and the valve itself. you may have kinks in the pipes too. especially the 'exhaust' side of the bleed valve circuit. either that or you have a boost leak.... time to check the hoses and intercooler. |
| ID: 4331 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: just wondering if you know of a in tank fuel pump for a clio that would pump enough fuel for a tuned 5 turbo engine Answer: i think you'll find that the intank fuel pump for the clio is rated to 3bar....cos its an injection system.- hence yes, u can do that gtt clio conversion with the fuel pump from the clio in place.... |
| ID: 4332 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil in water, new gasket, still does the same Question: Dear Wizard, I have a ph2 91/92 J plate 5 which has been running std boost til about 5k miles ago when i upped to 1bar-16psi on a t2 then a t2 hybrid with a fettled enrichment carb, i fitted a -31 actuator and blew the headgasket which appeared to have been leaking for a long time as the block was covered in oil. I have replaced the headgasket with an uprated item and head skimmed and oil is still going into the water at a tremendous rate (even on tickover), the headertank jus fills up with a brown substance. Do you think it could be the head or the block has cracked? there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust, in fact the car runs like a dream, bit noisy when you take the oil cap off but i believe thats to be expected so i dont think it could be a cracked liner, do you have any suggestions please wizard? Could i have cracked the head (which i believe has been done) or the block itself? the gasket that was on the head was the original item. please help wizard. all best, Ian Answer: aha, brizza you little boost monkey  lets get things straight- YOU CANNOT CRACK THE BLOCK, from too much boost, due the fact the liner gets it in the neck. the block only cracks when you break a conrod and punch it thru the side! think about this carefully. if oil is getting into the water, then its gonna have to be forced in there. it wont be the liner seals, cos then its water in the oil. it could be the oil cooler in the rad, the turbo or the head. or you could of buggered up the fitting of the headgasket and partially covered the oil feed to the head, which is at the front passenger side of the block. the oil then goes from the hole, into the head and up thru it into the rocker rail. the head can crack in the internal hole, which can be fixed, by drilling thru, and pushing an epoxy covered pipe in there- just like reno did apparently on rallys. it is unlikely the turbo water jacket has cracked... if u partially covered the hole from the block to the head, then this would allow oil to seep past it and enter the water surrounding the liners.... hope all this helps! |
| ID: 4333 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: T2 Question: Hi Wizard, T2 produce 26 Psi! can u tell me what to set the Carb ! 130 Main Jet ! 100 Air corrector !! WHat safely Psi 4 the Turbo can i run !! 18 Psi !! Answer: on a 25mm venturi'd carb, try a 140 main, 100 air corrector and a 125 first stage enricher... 26psi on a t2 will mean it will be very hot inlet charge!!! - maybe excess fuel will cool it? on a t2 run 18psi max, even then- this will shorten the life of it. |
| ID: 4334 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil in water, new gasket, still does the same prt2 Question: Dear Wiz, Many thanks for your kind words. I will look at the gasket again, where abouts on the head would it most likely crack? I have changed the rad to eliminate the problem, yet it still occurs so elimiation says its gotta be the head. the turbo is a brand new md14r so i doubt its that. all the best, Ian Answer: with the flat surface of the head facing you, and the manifolds pointing down, and the spark plugs upwards, the hole you need to look thru is at the top right hand corner. look thru it and it goes up at an angle and emerges.... next to passenger side rocker cover mounting stud... do you follow? it can split internally in there. |
| ID: 4335 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking when ticking over Question: hi wizard this only happens sometimes not always but only started happening recently. when its ticking over it will kick out alot of some its not black kind of white ish colour with a smell which doesnt smell like oil it smells more like a burning smell not sure whats causing this ive wound the bleed valve in so its back to standard boost but that doesnt seem to help i thought it could be something to do with the extra pressure i was given the engine. i havent been losing peformance in the bottom gears 1-2-3 but have in 4-5 its been spluttering a bit . hope ive given you enough info cheers mike Answer: could be excess fuel. do a compression check first to see if you are getting correct coompression, and arent pushing your fuel straight out the back in stead of burning it! could be smoke from the turbo too- the oil leaking from the seal hitting the hot exhaust blades, produces a smoke kinda similar to very thick nightclub smoke. |