| ID: 4275 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure!!! Question: hey wiz. Got a slight prob mate. Just bought an aftermarket oil pressure guage mate not to shore how i would install it. It seems to be the same size as the sender that already sits inside the block but fitting it will mean losing the two wires off the end of the sender. Are these wires important? i think they seem to be the ones that run the pressure guage on the dash. have you any diagrams of such for assistance? Thanks for all the help cheers jon. Answer: maybe u should follow the instructions in the packaging that the oil pressure kit was boxed in. i did, and managed to wire up mine correctly. but here is my advice anyway.... tie the standard two wires out the way and use your own wire/wires to sort it out. im sure you only need one that links the sender and the gauge units..... |
| ID: 4276 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil Question: on my mates 5 the dipstick read far too much oil,so qwe drained this out,but the dipstick reading is still up where it was before,+ in car gauge reading btwn 5-6,any ideas why this is happening?thanx for your time Answer: yeah, i have an idea..... you are doing summat wrong! make sure the car is cold and on a level surface. make sure you clean the dipstick before you test the oil level. just drain it all and refill with 3.5litres - its alittle more if u change the filter... |
| ID: 4277 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stickers Question: Hi wiz i was just wondering where i can get some gt turbo stickers, the ones that are above the side skirts an roughly how much? dont no if it makes a difference but its for a tungston grey 5. cheers Answer: tungy stickers are red and cost a fortune from renault, u maybe lucky and get them from a sign specialists, but u would have to be really lucky to get hold of this!!!! best bet is put a topic on the boards and ask around, someone must have copied them somewhere! |
| ID: 4278 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: run in Question: is it normal for a newly rebuilt engine to be running quite hot? its not v hot but still overly warm wen driving but as soon as traffic hits it quickly rises. have u heard that k-tec's front mount cooler causing heating problems? as it blocks part of the rad? many thanks. Answer: i aint heard anything bad about that rad, but think how hot and humpid its been recently!!!- may explain alot of heating probs!!! just make sure u got the correct amount of antifreeze in the water...too much can make it run hot. then bleed the water systam again, to make sure its all ok. |
| ID: 4279 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Suspension Question: Hi wonder if you can shed any light on the following, can you advise from your knowledge what problems the following would cause for renewal. Steering uj.................... Steering Column............. Trackrod ends................ Bottom Ball Joints............ Basically what faults they would cause...this would help greatly and save alot of time and money. Cheers.....Sat Answer: UJ - turn the steerin wheel and nothing happens, steering feels dull and lifeless, abit like a barge. steering column- (bushes) - the steering wheel can be waggled up and down, and sometimes makes a horrible squealing sound when turned... trackrod ends- when accelerating , car wobbles all over the place as one wheel is moved out of alignment. with front of car jacked off ground wheel can be wobbled side to side. bottom balljoint- can clunk over bumps, steering can be affected, corners can feel unsafe, jack up front of car and wobble wheel top to bottom. |
| ID: 4280 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rebuild Question: hi wiz, just planning on a engine build soon, i know that i will retorque the head but after how long? also does the bottom end need checked after run in for torqe settings? how long does the 5 need run in after engine build and what oils best? Thanks Answer: use 15w40 oil, retorque head after 100miles, dont redo bottom end though. then run engine in for 1000miles. change oil regular though! |
| ID: 4281 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cutting out Question: thanks for the reply. iv checked the timing sensor and it has a metal braket/case around it so i cant really check it. i do still have the brass screw, took it out and it was pretty clean. i wd40'd it any way like you said in the hole for 20 secs etc but its stil cutting out!!! how can i check the air leaks to the manifold or dodgy one way valves? when i took it out yesterday it seemed worse especially as i was stuck in traffic the idling was all over the place i had to use one foot to brake and one to keep the engine goin! i notice that when i dipped the clutch- say to change gear- the tacho needle would move up and down erraticly. should i try a carb rebuild kit?please help? Answer: undo the two 11mm bolts that hold the timing sensor onto the gearbox. the cover comes off with it. then replace it. the valves on the back of the manifold are below the carb (directly). pull off pipes to them , and attach your own pipes, and test them... they should only be one way jobbies! (suck + blow em to check.) change the carb gaskets anyway... |
| ID: 4282 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: I'm leaking fluid from my mystery hole! Question: directly underneath the carb, but above the manifold and to the left of the turbo there is a metal something with a hole in. The hole looks like it should be there i.e not a made by something going wrong type hole. Anyway, when the engine gets to a certain temp water starts coming out of the hole and when you rev the engine it comes out faster, it looks like a plug or temp switch should go inside the hole, but i cant be sure? i dont think a pipe should go there because its a flat hole i.e you couldnt put a pipe over it, youd have to put a pipe inside it? do you know what it is and what should go inside? thanx Answer: do you mean its above the exhaust manifold, or above the inlet manifold?- what colour is the metal its goes into? - sounds like it couls be one of 2 things. 1) manifold water connection. water flows in and out of manifold... 2) manifold core plug is corroded. see 1) eitherway you may have to track the water system back and 'remove' the manifold from the loop, by shorting it out. |
| ID: 4283 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mayo Question: Hi wizz. Got a bit of a problem with ""mayo"" in my oil filler cap. I thiought H/G first but after doing a compression test which showed all at 150psi then 160psi throttle fully open. I dont know what else it could be. Any ideas? Also when running a little bit of boost i get oil dripping from my oil breather. What do you think? Cheers Winka Answer: have you got mayo in your water expansion tank?- if so it could be leaky liner seals.-especially if all your oil is going creamy! does the car run ok? if so, then its probably just condensation in the engine, which will need a very good long run to get rid of! |
| ID: 4284 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hoses Question: ive just brought some hoses 2 boost and 2 water in blue i was told they were like new and 2 weeks old they have arived and are more black than blue whats the best thing to clean them with thanks Answer: try wd40, works a treat. |
| ID: 4285 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: system bleeding Question: ive just got a new copper rad and a few bits can u plz expalin the correct way in which to bleed the system of air thanks Answer: undo the bleed nipples on the pipes, fill the expansion tank up with water. lift the tank above the engine, until just water comes out of the nipples- no more air!!!- keep filling tank up with water as it is 'used up'. either that or blow into the tank, and squeeze the top pipe to the tank. then same as above. |
| ID: 4286 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: how do i tell ph 1 or ph 2 Question: hi wiz im probaly an idiot but how can i tell a ph1 to ph 2 its e reg but does that matter Answer: yes you are an idiot, but ill help ya cos i like ya *lol*- not in that way, if u know what i mean! e reg is a cross over reg. it may have the aei over the turbo or even the ph1 water system. under the rear lights does it have lines or is it smooth?- lines is ph1 , smooth is ph2. also suspension maybe offset- ph2 ,or like standard campus stylee- ph1. |
| ID: 4287 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: door pins Question: ive try using an extractor and heat with no joy any suggestions is there only 1 type of extractor Answer: do u have the torx bolt type or the rollpin type? if its the rollpin type then they are a ba stard to do! u might have to get the body shop to assist!!! |
| ID: 4288 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual Ball Bearing GT28R Question: hello Wizard, I need Help !! I have Fit on My Renault 5, Dual Ball Bearing GT28R Turbo of Garrett, Turbine -Wheel: 53mm w/ 62 trim -Housing: .64 ar Compressor -Wheel: 60mm w/ 60 trim -Housing: .60 ar I have 205/40/R17 Wheels, when i'm start running with the Car, the boost build slowly and then make 8 Psi on 4500 RPM, after 4500 RPM it go slowly to 11 Psi at 5500 rpm, and stay about 11 Psi ... any idea ! why turbo build boost slowly ! Many Thanks, Carlos. Answer: he he he, my friend , you have put a turbo that is too big for the engine on your car. you need a smaller turbo, because at the moment you have not enough exhaust gas to turn the exhaust blades.- you can remedy this with NOS, but it will be expensive. infact- sell me your GT28R- so i can stick it on my fiat coupe 20VT......  have you tried taking the pipe off the actuator yet- to see if the turbo will actually spool up past 11psi?- also is that in 4th gear?- more gas produced then, than in 1st gear. also is your actuator bracket firmly stuck to the compressor housing?- if its loose the wastegate will open easily, and u will get no boost. |
| ID: 4289 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: nos Question: wot is the best nos kit to get wet or dry? Answer: wet |
| ID: 4290 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cutting out Question: ok here's the latest; i took 1 of the bolts out from the timing sensor and swiveled the casing away so i can see it and it looks ok [not melted etc] i was about to continue with the removal of it, but thort i better check on those manifold valve thingys like you said. the one on the passenger side did'nt have a jublee clip on it as the other did, as i caught hold of it, it just slipped off. i put a jublee on it and went for a spin and the car seemed fine although i did have the choke on slightly. the engine did'nt idle all over the place and have all the problems iv been having, it was only when i put the choke off the revs dropped slowly and the engine died. Do you think it could be down to incorrect/faulty carb adjustment? thanks a mill Answer: yes, adjust it now, and it should be better. |
| ID: 4291 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual Ball Bearing GT28R Question: hello wizard again, I have pull the hose from the wastegate, the turbo cant Produce more than 11 Psi in all gears, the 1st to 5th gears are the same boost, the boost start from 4500 rpm produce 8 psi slowly and it get more boost slowly to 11 psi at 5500 rpm, do you think thats the turbo too big !, i dont think so, because if it big it must give more boost, not only 11 psi when i'm turned the wastegate off working !! maybe there is a problem in the housing where the part of the wastegate that drops the gas to the exhaust !! because its the same boost in all gears level !!? Answer: yes it does seem odd that you can run only 11psi in all gears. check that your exhaust manifold is still firmly attached to the head, as the size of the turbo will surely have pulled it off, or you may have lost some nuts!- this will cause exhuast gas leakage. also maybe u have a boost leak after the turbo, and you are infact getting more boost than you thought. |
| ID: 4292 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: That hole leaking water part 2 Question: Hi wizard! Thanx for you reply! The colour of the metal thing is silver/grey its almost directly under the blown carburettor (accourding to haynes) its got some bare wires near it, as far as i can work out there needs to be something that fills the hole, and i think something that those wires might connect to? it sounds like it could be the core plug? sorry if i sound daft, ive only just bought the car and the guy i bought it off said when he got it the guy he bought it off said that hed removed something from there? so i dont think anything is broken just missing! would it help if i sent some pics? and if so where would i said them to? Answer: stick the pix on your profile and let me know. sounds like you may have 'lost' the sensor that screws into the bottom of the carb/ manifold area. in which case it will be fuel you're loosing not water!!! |
| ID: 4293 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Adjustable Timing Sensor Question: Hi Wiz Kidd, I have just purchased a GT Tuning Adjustable Timing Sensor and it came with a set of instructions on how to fit it and obtain optimum performance from this tiny device. It says to mount as usual, blah , blah... and it tells you which way is to retard the ignition and advance it. But..it says that retarding the ignition is the way to go if you are running a high amount of boost, which I am, and if the engine is 'pinking' excessively, which it isn't. Is this statement true as I thought that advancing the ignition timing usually sorts high boost problems out (aswell as a group 'A' carb and plugs etc...). Ta! Answer: advancing the ign on high boost doesnt sort problems out at all.... like what sort of probs? running big boost and advancing the timing can only really be done on a car running funny fuel or a car with water injection. best stick to retarding it, unless u have water inj! |
| ID: 4294 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: SMOKING!!! Question: Hi, Went for a drive the other day and the car was smoking quite heavily when I got back, Thought it was water but checked underneath and no leaks. Think it might be exhaust- went out again yesterday and was using the turbo heavily and when I slowed down it or something was smoking again. I then slowed down not using any boost got home and there was a lot less smoke, let it idle for a couple of minutes and none at all???? cheers mate Answer: turbo seals could be on the way out. check the turbo sgaft for excess play up and down and in and out! |
| ID: 4295 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mayo Question: Whizz in reply to your questions. Car runs sweet and no there is no mayo in expansion bottle. The car is only driven at w/ends. Cheers Graham Answer: keep a close eye on the coolent level . take a note of its level at the same temp each time pref cold. see if your level drops then all youl have to do is find were the coolent is going a rising oil level could also indicate that coolent is getting into the oil |
| ID: 4296 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: round rear lights (led) Question: hi wiz,as youve great knowledge on almost everything could you tell me where i could purchase some (new london bus rear led style clear round lights) from? as ive tried searching to no avail.many thanks jules Answer: now slight problem here, is that i aint from london, so i aint got a clue what the hell ur on about *lol*. but i do know this, you can buy bulb with led's in which replace the standard bulbs, maybe this would look ok-ish. failing that you will have to get the morette style rear lights that prima racing sell-m or used to sell, and somehow adapt some lights to fit.- or maybe even fit em yourself. - how about adapting some of those universal 'angel eye' kits for the rear lights.... |
| ID: 4297 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual Ball Bearing GT28R Question: Hi Wizard! Thanx for ur reply ! I have check the exhaust manifold, its ok . The Exhaust manifold and the Inlet took From Renault 11 Turbo 1987 !! any idea if the 11 Exhaust manifold give the same work of the 5 Exhaust manifold !!! and if the Inlet of 11 give the same work of the 5 Inlet !! Answer: yeah, dont worry about that, 11 and 5 are similar enough. you could have a manifold leak. especially if u run a standard intercooler.- check top and bottom ok! - then suspect the wastegate actuator spring, maybe too weak. - you may have to try a cosworth style one. (thanx to andy cooke for this tip) |
| ID: 4298 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Low temp fan switch??? Question: Howdy sparkster I recently got and fitted a low temp fan switch. Previously, ive always had the fan on an in-car switch only only recently switched to the OE setup. Problem is, the fan kicks in just before the third mark..... ive bled it, checked for leaks and everything seems fine. Ive been told several times that the low temp switch should click halfway between the second and third mark?? Whats up with it man?!! Answer: nothing is wrong thats were the std set up normaly sits when the fan comes in while stationary. you should notice that the temp drops down to the middle of the gauge when driving steadrly along. ps this not sparky. innit |
| ID: 4299 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: The hole part 3 Question: Hi wizard Me again! thanx for your Patience with this! its deffently not fuel cos theres not enough in the tank compared to the amount that ends up on the floor, plus ive stuck my hand under it to smell it and apart from getting burned it smelt watery *lmao* Ive put the pic under my car in my profile and put a little arrow pointing to the B**tard hole thing! Answer: going by the picky in your profile there is a water jacket built into the inlet manifold and on the end of the jacket is core plugs. looks like yours have rotted away few things you can do hear is replace the manifold with another known good one replace the core plugs or bypass the water jacket in the manifold by linking the two hoses that go into the rear of it |
| ID: 4300 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gurgle Question: hi ya thanks for recent replys when the car is idling there is a gurgle coming for passanger side of the car down by turbo any suggestions Answer: there should be a jet in the breather hose that runs from the back of the inlet manifold round to the T piece near the rocker cover if the jet is missing or its not sealing in the tube youl get this noise |
| ID: 4301 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual Ball Bearing GT28R Question: Hi Wizard again! I have remove out the Intercooler to check , Iv'e connect Hose from the Turbo to the Carb, but was no change, i have check the wastegate actuator spring, its ok .. the cylinder head is 74mm in height with Uprated HeadGasket. any more idea can help me ! Andrew Cooke says the he run with the same turbo i have ! i think the problem is the manifold of the R11.. do you think that !! at 4000 rpm the turbo produce 8 psi !! Many Thanks, wizard Answer: as mentioned before it might be due to the turbo being to large to produce enough boost. please cheack the acctuator again to make sure it holding the wastegate shut you can do this with a bit of thinking and the use of a bike pump and a boost gauge and a few T pieces plumb in the bike pump and boost gauge so that the bike pump produces a pressure and the boost gauge can read the preassure made on the acctuator. pump the bike pump and read of the preasure at the point that that acctuator starts to move ... if you get movment from the acuator at 8psi then the acct needs to be increased by shortening the control rod |
| ID: 4302 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dual ball bearing GT28R Question: I have check the acctuator again, If i will connect a hose from the Carb top to the Wastegate, the Wastegate will open at 8 Psi, if i will remove the Hose from the wastegate the Turbo produce only 11 Psi.. and can u tell me how to put the Valves clerance !! 8 mm Inlets , 10 mm Exhausts !! so, I dunno what to do right now , can u plz ask Andrew Cooke ! , he says that he run with the same turbo in his car!! Many Thanks, have change him 2 , nothing helps as mentioned before it might be due to the turbo being to large to produce enough boost. please cheack the acctuator again to make sure it holding the wastegate shut you can do this with a bit of thinking and the use of a bike pump and a boost gauge and a few T pieces plumb in the bike pump and boost gauge so that the bike pump produces a pressure and the boost gauge can read the preassure made on the acctuator. pump the bike pump and read of the preasure at the point that that acctuator starts to move ... if you get movment from the acuator at 8psi then the acct needs to be increased by shortening the control rod Answer: valve clearance is 0.008 inches and 0.010 in which is 8 and 10 thousands of an inch. have you checked the actuator to see if it is firmly attached to the compressor housing? - if it moves then you will get no boost. is your air filter blocked?- it may sound silly, but you never know. try winding the actuator rod in, so it shortens it, this may help. failing that try a different actuator, as the spring in yours maybe too weak. |
| ID: 4303 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: I.P.C for r5 gtt Question: Hey wiz, any idea if there is any one that does a I.P.C for the r5on cd-rom?? i looked most places but nothin. cheers Answer: ok, what does IPC mean? |
| ID: 4304 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cam advance Question: hey wiz. i've got 4 degrees of cam advance on my car. iv got a kent cam rt200 cam. k-tec told me its no good havin it advanced. any idea if its any good on the engine? i will be running high boost. many thanks Answer: u are supposed to retard it. |