| ID: 392 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Breather Question: Bonjour Wizzy, Please could you tell me the size of the breather pipe. The one which a small filter can be attached to before it goes into the turbo inlet pipe. Also where could I get a plug to bung the turbo inlet pipe hole with? Cheers Dave :-) Answer: I think the inside diameter is 15mm and the outside is 17mm for the breather pipe. I know that pipercross do a universal filter that fits snugly over the pipe. You should be able to get a bung from any good accessory shop or maybe even an electrical shop like Tandy or RS. |
| ID: 393 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Amplifier power cable Question: hey wizard, thanks for the advice on the temp and oil gauges everything seems to be fine now... i have another problem though. Im trying to lay an amp power cable from the battery to the boot! I've layed the cable from the boot under the carpet all the way to front by the fuse box. My problem is geting it into the engine bay to attach it to the battery... I want to do it properly but with ease... i dont want to have to pull all the carpet up and pull back the soundproofing!! can you help... cheers, nick Answer: The best place to fit through the bulkhead is the heater pipe grommet. It may not be the easiest place to get to but is best. |
| ID: 394 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Melted wires Question: First, thanks for the help with the last problem. Now, my heat shield has melted away and taken some wires with it, can you help me with regards to what i'll need to replace. My anti-perc sensor and all wires has gone, and i dont have a clue as to where to start, all i have left are two wires from the carb and a brown melted wire going towards the radiator which i think goes to the main engine loom. Help me please, i'm missing my poor baby Answer: The wires to the two sensors are just paralleled with each other and then go down to the main engine loom. Remove the black plastic covering on the loom and trace where the wire goes to. Replace the wires that are burnt and make sure you use insulated connectors for the sensors aso as to prevnt any more problems. |
| ID: 395 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: phase 1 ren 19 wheels Question: hi Do phase 1 Renault 19 16v wheels have the correct offset for a phase 2 5 turbo? John Dolan Answer: The 19 16V wheels fit fine but you are best to use 195/45/15 tyres to prevent any rubbing on the arches etc. |
| ID: 396 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: sidelights Question: my R/H sidelight fuse keeps blowin! ive gone up to a 25 & it still blows. Ive checked the bulbs front & rear, can you help? Answer: Sounds like you have a short circuit to earth somewhere on that wiring. You will either have to get an auto electrician on the job or if you can, get testing wires yourself! |
| ID: 397 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Anti Perc Fan Question: Hey wizard me again!! one last question concerning my perc fan, at the moment it has the tendancy to run on for about 30 min and last night it run on for 35 minutes.. I have just replaced the anti perc fan with an uprated one from bbperformance tuning and have also replaced the sensor in the turbo heat shield. This only leaves the one in the carb that can be at fault... I take it if this is bust then it will only rely on the one in the turbo heat shield. How can i test this and is it likely to be that one? coz otherwise i will be going through batteries like petrol!! cheers wizard Answer: The anti perc fan can run on for up to an hour on some cars! Try removing the under bonnet sound deadening material and see if this reduces the amount of time that the fan is on for. Alternatively you can just disconnect the carb sensor and see if that makes a difference. |
| ID: 398 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Loose Bearing. Question: Hello Wizard, I have recently purchased new Stub Axle Carriers and Front Bearings from Renault who pressed the assembly together with the Hub Flanges. The assemly is off the car and whilst I was torqueing up the Caliper locators for Wilwood Four Pots I noticed that there was play within one of the Bearings. If I grasp the Hub Flange and move it away from the Stub Axle assembly I notice that there is movement between the inner and outer races of the Bearing to a point where it knocks slightly. Is this normal? I have spoken to various Mechanics who say that this excess play will be taken up when the Driveshaft is mounted and the main Driveshaft nut is torqued up? I am concerned never the less. Answer: The mechanics are correct. The play SHOULD be taken up by the driveshaft nut. If it is not then they must renew the bearing for you again as it is either fitted wrong or faulty. |
| ID: 399 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: lancia carb Question: hi there wiz, I have just fitted a lancia twin choke carb onto my car (still in bits ) the lancia carb has a fuel inlet and a return to the tank which on the 5 usually sits behind the fuel regulator, do i just block up the return on the carb and let the regulator do it's job or should i run a feed that returns to tha fuel tank thus ditching the 5's fuel regulator ??? Cheers Ben Answer: I would recommend using the standard GT regulator if possible or a replacement adjustable version for total tunability! |
| ID: 400 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Heat sheild Fire Question: I have Just had the chance to take my baby on to a track event,after 10 mins of racing i pulled in and found that the sensor that sat on top of the heat sheild had totally melted away and some of the wires had melted right the way down.I have taped the wires up so they dont arc out any where. 1.Is it ok to drive like this ? 2.Can you tell me what bits i need to get? Cheers Jason Macaulay alfie@mcb.net Answer: It is fine to drive as long as they are well insulated. The sensor is available from Renault but is expensive, the sensor surround rubber is about £1.50 and the wires need to be replaced to the sensor with similar wire. |
| ID: 401 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Starting problem Question: The problem only occures when starting up from warm. I am thinking it is the perculator fan as it is not working. How easy are they to replace? Could there be any other fault apart from the perculator fan? cheers BW Answer: The perc fan has a relay and fuse behind the drivers front headlight that may be faulty as well as the two sensors fitted to the carb and turbo heatshield. Try touching the two wires together from the sensor and see if the fan works. If not try changing the fuse (even if it looks ok) and the relay. |
| ID: 402 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Loudest System Question: I am just about to buy a full stainless exhaust system for my turbo. The one Im after is a full Scorpion 4"" / I have however heard that the Scorpion systems do not fit well; Is this true? Is a Mongoose system as loud? Answer: I know the 3"" scorpion fits perfectly but most 4"" tailpipes knock on the bumper unless you cut it out and fit a surround. I don't think there is a lot in it between noise levels. If it is loud you want then go for the Redline sidewinder as it has no silencer and is Very loud! |
| ID: 403 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Turbo-Timers Question: Hi Wiz, Just got hold of a nice Turbo-Timer and am wondering whether you would have any idea how to wire them through the ignition. I've heard it's a sloppy job to do. Should i leave it to a good auto-electrician or can i do it myself. I'm pritty good with DIY work. thanx John M Answer: Most of the wiring is self explanetery, just follow the diagram and you should be fine. |
| ID: 404 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Turbulence Question: Wiz, I have a GT tuning closed loop dump valve, which remain slightly open during part throtle, I'm sure you know the score. It feeds back into the turbo inlet hose, but I have heared this can cause tubulence, and disrupt air flow and hence power. My question is should I have it connected to save the circulating charge but risk flow disruption, or leave it unconnected and waste the charge during part throttle? Answer: The recirculating charge goes across the incoming charge and will cause turbulance so i would say block the hole in the Turbo inlet hose and let the dumped air go to atmosphere. |
| ID: 405 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Squeeking Question: Hi Wiz, I have recently had a big brake conversion on my 5 and lately it has started to make a nasty squeeking noise when I brake. Is this just a characteristic of the bigger brakes (288mm) or is there something to be worried about??? I had them fitted in March with new pads aswell, they have only done a couple of thousand miles. Also, how difficult is it to change the calipers, mine are looking a bit manky and don't do the wheels or brakes justice - or is it better just to paint the original ones and how difficult is it to do? Cheers Mark Answer: You don't say what pads you have fitted but it may be that these are the cause of the squeek. Try refitting them with a copperslip type compound on the back to reduce noise. Shotblast the old callipers clean and repaint is cheapest option. |
| ID: 406 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Battery Light Question: Hello again wiz, Lately my battery light has come on whilst driving, it tends to just flicker on and off randomly. At first I thought it was the Altenator, but I had it all checked out and both the battery and altenator are both in good working order. Is it likely to be suggesting that another electrical device is on it's way out or is it more likely to be a loose connection? If it is likely to be a loose connection where do I need to be checking the wiring? Cheers Mark Answer: Check the two wire connector at the top of the alternator as this does the light circuit and is prone to bad connections. |
| ID: 407 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: alloys Question: I have decided to buy some alloys for my car, but i don't want to comprimise the handling or speed, i've decided on 15 inchs, now is it true that when using 195/50 this cause wrong speedo reading and less grip, as i hear 195/45s are the correct, is this true???? Answer: 45's are nearest to standard rolling radius so will give more accurate speedo readings and better grip from smaller sidewalls. |
| ID: 408 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Headter Tank Location Question: Hi, firstly thanks for the last bit of info. I now have a Green induction air filter, and I have put in the location of the header tank, I have moved the header tank to where the old original air filter was, will the header tank be ok there or is it a bit close to the turbo. I will have a chromed heat shield soon and was wondering if i will get any heat problems. would a chromed header tank be better to get rid of the heat. Spiky Answer: Chromed header tank will hold more heat than plastic one but will probably be fine! Position is ok if you fit the heatshield. |
| ID: 409 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: poor performance Question: I HAVE RECENTLY FITTED A GRP A CARB TO MY RENAULT,BUT IT DOES NOT WANT TO IDLE,AND THE CARB PERFORMS VERY POOR WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE AT LOW REVS,IVE BEEN THROUGH THE HAYNES MANUAL,AND HAVE DOUBLE CHECKED ALL THE PIPES FROM THE CARB + ACTUATOR, AND IS TOTALY STANDARD EXCEPT A PIPER CROSS BREATHER FILTER,CONNECTED ON TO THE CRANK CASE BREATHER PIPIE BEHIND THE BACK OF THE ROCKER COVER THAT LINKS ON TWO THE BACK OF THE MANIFOLD?IVE HAD THE CAR TUNED UP TWICE NOW ,AND THEY SAY THE CARB WONT RUN LEAN ENOUGH,WHICH IS STOPING THE CARB FROM IDLING PROPERLY,IVE CHEECKED THE ECU UNIT AS WELL BUT THATS WORKING FINE , ALSO AS THE ENGINE HEATS UP THE REVS PICK UP WITH IT,AND THE CARB WONT IDLE UNDER 2000RPM? THE CARB HAS DONE 68 THOUSAND MILES AND WAS WORKING FINE BEFORE I HAD IT REBUILT TO GRP A SPEC. IS THE CARB FAULTY,OR DOES THE FAULT LIE SOMEWHERE ELSE, OR SHOULD I SCRAP THE CARB AND GET A BRAND NEW ONE! PLEASE HELP ...ANDY C Answer: The Group A carb is too big for your engine spec and is overfuelling due to the size of the fuel droplets coming out the bigger jets! Get a correctly jetted std carb and you will see more power up until high boost levels. |
| ID: 410 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Creaking under the bonnet Question: My R5 has a creek/knock when i start to move off, or when driving very slow, or when reversing. The frustrating thing is that the suspension, streering rack, gaiters, subframe, wishbones, bushes, Brake discs /calipers are all new but there is still this creek!! The creek happens just when you move off or just as you hit the breaks and its sounds like three short creeks, it is quiet loud and I think it gets louder, more frenquent in traffic. Please help!! I have spent plenty o bucks on the old girl and cant bear to hear her creek. Munish Answer: It could be due to loose springs in the clutch, a dodgy driveshaft, loose callipers, or other loose componants. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are fitted correctly! |
| ID: 411 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Wires on Alternator Question: Hi Wiz, thanks for all your help so far. I have heard that the two wires ontop of the alternator are to do with the battery light, but one of the wires is disconected and my battery light still works?! I am confused, please could you wave your wand and tell me exactly what these wires do? Cheers Dave :-) Answer: The wires are part of the regulator circuit and one of them may be earthing out making the light come on. Try disconnecting the other wire and see if it still lights. You will need to check the resistance to earth on each wire. It should be high on one side and not so on the other. |
| ID: 412 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: When will it go ""BANG"" Question: Yeelllo Wizzard. My question is : At the moment I have a standard flowed, strapped intercooler with no flap. Im not uprating it as Im going for a chargecooler only setup. But all the rest of the car, other than hoses which im doing soon can take loads of boost. Can i run the standard cooler at high boost for short periods ie quater miles with out it blowing up. Would it help adding extra straps and some ""DIY"" sealing ? And if it did blow - what would be the consequences ? And could fitting a home made water spray thingy help? Many thanks Rik Answer: Fitting a water spray will not help the cooler stay in one piece, that is solely down to boost pressure. Extra straps may help but it will still blow eventually. You will loose power and boost pressure on your gauge when the intercooler leaks. This will stress the turbo if you continue to floor it which could lead to a catastrophic failure. |
| ID: 413 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Flashing Choke Light Question: Hi ya Wiz, My choke light on the instrument panel flutters when the choke is on and doesnt stay on constantly. Do u Know whats going on??? Cheers Answer: Sounds like a dodgy connection on the wiring side. Is it only when the choke is partially on? |
| ID: 414 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: How low can I go Question: Cheers for the last answer Wizzard, sorry for another one. Im fitting a BB tuning adjustable boost kit off a mates car and was wondering if I can adjust the alternator arm so I can run lower than standard boost. What is the lowest i should go for long journeys, saving petrol etc. And how do i do it, is it make the arm longer or shorter. Cheers Wizzard Answer: Make the arm longer for less boost. How low you can go is determined by the actuator itself and will be trial and error i'm afraid. |
| ID: 415 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Flashing Choke Question: Hi, yeah it only flashes when it is not on fully??????? Thanks Answer: My pleasure. |
| ID: 416 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Mounting Goats!! Question: Hello Hairy Face, How much engine movenment should there be?? When i accelerate/decelerate my gear stick moves quite a bit. Do u reckon i could do with new engine mounts?? And if so will the uprated jobbies from BB make any big improvement over the Renault ones?? Also finally how easy is it to change em, and would any competent garage be able to fit them, withought wrecking me beloved five?? Thanks for all your time and help................forever gratefull!! Answer: There should not be a great deal of movement. It sounds to me like your mounts have gone soft. The BB tuning mounts are stiffer to a degree but i do not know how much. They cost a similar amount to Renault ones so I would go for them! They are fairly easy to change except for the rear mount that can be a pain to get to. Any competant garage should be able to fit them no problem. |
| ID: 417 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: WASTEGATE CHATTER ? Question: Hello wizard,The question i have is what is wastegate chatter?,when would it be apparent(on boost,off boost,part throttle etc).Also if this is my problem is it serious,and how do i cure it? Answer: Wastegate chatter is when the actuator spring is closing the wastegate and boost pressure is reopening it. It is there from standard but in such a small amount as to not be noticed. As you up the boost or fit a cone filter then it becomes more apparent. It will be noticable as you let your foot off the throttle. If you have a dump valve fitted then you should not get it anymore. If you do then the dump valve diaphram may be suspect. |
| ID: 418 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cowboy cluch fitters!!!!!! Question: My phase 1 r5 gtt has just been in for almost a week getting a new cluch,self adjuster,cluch cable,plate thingy that holds the cluch cable in place under the bonnet and the ball bearing that makes the plate piviot to pull the cluch cable...They did a reasonably good job as i went in to see it a few times when they were doing it,but when i went in to pick it up they had put all the hoses on wrongly!!,that was when i started having doubts. I just sorted them myself before driving it away,on the way home,within 10 minutes,something seemed to gave way and a huge banging sound came from somewhere in the engine(not sure where)...It's back in the garage and there telling me it's the timing belt and the valves are bent,but i know for a fact it's not...Could it possibly be the flywheel censor,or even dodgy fitting of the cluch.....Any ideas wizard??? Help is needed on this one as i am at a loose end! Thank you very much. Nicky O'Donnell. Answer: There is no way it could be the timing belt as the 5 has a chain! It could be that they left something loose but it could be lots of things. A dodgy sensor would put the timing out and that could be part of the problem. Don't pay for anything extra to be done and if they get funny then put the AA or RAC onto them, they will soon be more helpfull! |
| ID: 419 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Dump Valve not dumping Question: I bought a second hand GTTuning dump value about 6 months ago , its one of those recirculating ones. I have recently bought a pipercross induction kit which shouldn't make a wastegate chatter noise due to the dump valve but it does. My dump valve is also silent, does this mean it is broke even though it does seem to reduce turbo lag. My car is running standard boost and I was wandering if my dump valve is broken could this cause any serious damage to my engine. Thanks in advance Pete Answer: Sounds like the dump valve diaphram has split, this is a common problem with dump valves easily rectified with a new diaphram available from any of the tuners. |
| ID: 420 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: GOLD DUST (PHASE ONE) Question: HI T WIZ, PLEASE COULD YOU HELP ME ME WITH THIS QUESTION,WHERE DO I GO TO FIND REPLACEMENT DOOR CARDS AND FRONT SEATS AS MY CARDS HAVE BUBBLED BADLY AROUND THE HANDLE AREA, AND MY PASSENGER SEAT HAS BEEN EATEN AROUND THE SIDE SUPPORTS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT( MOTHS I THINK)ANYWAY IVE HEARD THAT RENAULT STOPPED MAKING THE PHASE ONE BODYKIT+OTHER BITS AT LEAST TEN YEARS AGO,AND WAS WONDERING IS THERE ANY WAY OF FINDING SOME MINT EXAMPLES, TO REPLACE MINE WITH?I HAVE SEARCHED HI AND LOW IN MOST OF THE BREAKERS, IN THE NORFOLK COUNTY WITH NO LUCK,AS THE FEW THAT I DO FIND ARE EVEN WORSE THAN MINE ,THERE ARE LOADS OF PHASE TWO'S BUT I WANT TO KEEP MY BELOVED PHASE ONE TOTALY MINT AND STANDARD ON THE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE AND THESE FEW ITEMS ARE LETTING ME DOWN,ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATFULY RECIEVED ANDY C Answer: Try Ian at Europarts as i know he keeps large stocks of bits and may well have what you need. |
| ID: 421 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: smoking when warm Question: Car starts great no smoke,no rattles.When engine gets warm it kicks out white smoke which stinks of oil,is this a blown turbo??Also the engine is using water[no oil emusification]is this down to the turbo aswell.cheers.....matt Answer: It could be the seals or water jacket in the turbo, or it could just be a head/gasket problem. Get the cylinder pressures tested to give you a better idea if it is engine or turbo. |