| ID: 422 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel Question: what is the correct fuel to put in my 5 gtt, ive been told to use LPG, unleaded and super unleaded, which do you reconmend, my car is sandard, also im just rebuilding a re-con engine. cheers.. Answer: The correct fuel is 4 star but it is quite rare these days. I know most people don't like LRP as it has been said that it causes damage to turbos. If you can't find 4 star i would use super unleaded. |
| ID: 423 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: STANDARD BLOCK??? Question: Just a quick one,is the engine block on a non turbo 1400 the same as a turbo block?.I realise there will be differences in the head,sump,crank,pistons etc,but is the block common to turbo and non-turbo?.thank you. Answer: Simple answer NO! |
| ID: 424 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: perc fan fuse? Question: hi mr wizard All I want to ask is what size amp fuse should be put near the perc fan, mines a 15 is this ok? gt tuning recommend this as a higher amp is too big and is a fire hazard, but many people say you should use a 7.5 to be on the safe side! who is right? cheers>>>>>>>> Answer: Try a 7.5 amp, if it blows try a 10 but i have seen cars before using 15's without any problems. |
| ID: 425 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: full lock... Question: when turning right on full lock my passenger side wheel (phase 1 clio 16v) catches on the inner wing,please help as i think it will fail m.o.t. Answer: It won't fail for rubbing on the inner wing as long as it doesn't touch the brake line or anything. |
| ID: 426 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo makes a funny droning noise Question: Sometimes when my turbo kicks in it makes like a droning noise, it does it both when hot and cold but its an intermitant noise. I thought it could just be the way the air is blowing under the car maybe making a noise cause of something under it. Anyone have any ideas??? Ben Answer: ??? Have you got a cone filter or the standard air box? It could be something to do with the flap. or Maybe something to do with the inteercooler flap? Sorry i cannot be more help but i will need as much details as possible to help decipher this riddle! |
| ID: 427 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Jets? Question: Wizzard mate, someone was telling me that for 100 quid I can do sommit to the jets and gain up 2 160 bhp, do you know what they were talking about and where can i find out more?? Ben Answer: Either someone is winding you up or you have the wrong end of the stick! You can get a Group A carb conversion which includes bigger jets for £100 but you will only gain power at high boosts. Or You could fit an in car boost adjuster and jets which allows you to raise the boost with possible power gains up to 160bhp but more likely 140 bhp. If you need any more details feel free to ask. |
| ID: 428 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: anti-perc fan and wastegate problems. Question: Please explain wiring circuit for perc fan, my fan seems to cut in and out at exactly the same time as radiator cooling fan, is this coincidence or has some one bypassed sensor on base of carb. There does not appear to be a sensor on heatshield as you have suggested to other questions (car is 1986). How should the fan be wired up. After removing exhaust manifold/turbo etc, new gaskets, re-face downtake etc I have forgotten which wastegate hose is which and also not 100% sure of hose locations on air intake on top of carburretor. The wastegate sounds different now, more like a loud dump valve, have I cocked up? Answer: Thi sis a bit complicated so hold tight! From the alternator (1.2mm violet wire) into the carb sensor, Out the sensor (White 1.2mm wire) into the perc fan relay, Other wires to the relay are Black (0.9mm wire) and Red (1.2mm wire) from the alternator, Blue (1.2mm wire) goes to the perc fan motor, (Yellow 1.2mm wire) then runs from the motor to the alternator. The last wire from the relay goes to the radiator fan switch which would give you the explanation of the fans coming on together. This to me sounds like the sensor has gone in the carb and the perc fan is then only getting a signal to work from the radiator. Try connecting the wires for the carb sensor together and see if the fan comes on, if not then i would recommend trying a new relay and rewiring the circuit if necessary. For the carb and actuator hosing positions try this picture to compare with yours. http://www.mind-design.co.uk/images/5engine.JPG (Picture courteousy of and property of Aaron JB) Phew glad that little lot is finished, my poor old fingers ache! I hope this helps. |
| ID: 429 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo gaskets? Question: on my 86 turbo, are there gaskets between turbocharger and manifold, and turbo charger and down pipe elbow or are they metal to metal sealing faces as appears? Answer: There are gaskets available for these joints but most people dont bother with them as the heat seals the gaps anyway most of the time. |
| ID: 430 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Missing Question: Every so often-not always. My car engine missfires and blows out white smoke as if the head-gasket has gone but I take it for a quick run and it ticks over properly again within around a minute. Is the head gasket on it's way or could this be something else? Thank You. Answer: Try tightening up the carb mounting nuts as it may be loose and leaking a little water into the manifold. |
| ID: 431 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: crank up the boost Question: OI OI I want to up the boost on my motor, it has had a new clutch standard though fitted in feb. Is there anything else that should b taken into account b4 i fit an in car adjustable boost or should i fit a bleed valve first or both? do i have to fit a group a carb, i only want to boost up to 15-17 for now!! Thanx Jamesy Answer: An in car boost acts as a bleed valve so fit that and a 135 main jet should do the trick. Also strap and flow the intercooler. An induction kit and exhaust will also do good. |
| ID: 432 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Comparing turbos Question: What difference would i notice by changing my standard turbo, running 16psi, to a hybrid also running 16psi. Would the car hold the power further up the rev range or will i only feel it mid range. Thank oh mighty wiz Answer: A hybrid turbo will move more air than a standard one at the same boost so theoretically you will get more power. |
| ID: 433 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strut brace Question: Wiz, i put a strut brace on the 5 about a year ago. I had to take it off at some point to access something under the bonnet. When it came off it brought most of the threads with it!! So when it went back on i tapped out to the next size up (M12's i think) and used some bigger bolts. I'm changing the front springs/strut bearings and donut's at the weekend and am worried that the brace will not go back on again. I'm changing it about 50 miles from home and want to make sure i don't get stuck in Leeds 'cos the suspension is 'loose' Do you think when it comes off this time it'll be ok? Cheers Steve Answer: Why not fit new strut tops as well while you have everything apart? It ""should"" be ok as long as you start the threads by hand making sure they are in properly before using a spanner/socket. |
| ID: 434 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Jets Question: My car is running at 20psi with a PiperX Induction Kit and a Scorpion exhaust. Do you recommend changing any of the jets in the carb? I am assuming it is a standard carb. Many thanks Ken Answer: I would fit a 135 main and 90 or 100 air corrector (available from reno) and strap the intercooler. |
| ID: 435 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rattling Exhaust Question: What is the best way to stop my Scorpion 3 1/2"" exhaust from knocking when going down a bumpy road? The car has also been lowered 35mm. Many thanks Ken Answer: Depends on where it is knocking! Try bending mounts or using tie wraps to tighten rubbers up. Also try loosening the joints and swivelling the pipes around a bit. |
| ID: 436 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: over heating Question: ive recently took the sound deadning off the bottom of my bonnet now it runs alot hotter do i need the furry shit?? also were can i get a skeet front bumper from mail order? Answer: It should not make the car run hotter by removing the sound deadening from the bonnet if anything it should run cooler as the heat will dissipate through the metal better although some people complain about paint discolouring due to the heat. Skeet no longer make 5GT kits but there maybe someone who still has one in stock. Why not try a Carisma kit or A&J do a nice Scooby style bumper including mesh and lights for £190ish. |
| ID: 437 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Max PSI on a new Stage 1 turbo technics Question: Hi Wiz. wots the best max boost to run on a new Stage 1 turbo technics. I have an alloy intercooler, rejetted carb, uprated head gasket and bolts. and my engines got about 12k on it. I just dont want to blow anything in a hurry by boosting too much. And which way do I turn the bleed valve to up the boost. Thanks, and big big respect Munish Answer: Depending on what turbo technics say is the max the turbo will run, i would say take about 4-5psi off that and it should be fine. Unscrew the bleed valve a little at a time anticlockwise to increase boost. |
| ID: 438 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hot starting problems Question: If the car gets hot either due to being thrashed down the motorway on a long run or when stuck in traffic, it'll refuse to start if the engines been left for less than 20 mins. Battery power is good and starting is fine when cold and once the engines has cooled a little it'll start fine. The car runs standard boost and I've fitted an open type grill. My theory is that the starter motor is heated by the exhaust and siezes. I've notice the starter motor heat shield is knackered, and to reduce the heating effect I've wrapped the turbo elbow in insulating exhaust wrap and this may be a small help. Is my theory on the right track or am I barking up the wrong tree? Will renewing the heat shield fix it or do I need a new starter motor (God forbid!) Answer: I take it you mean the engine will not turn over rather than just spinning and not starting? If it is just spinning then try to see if the anti perc fan is working at all. If not then it sounds to me like your starter motor needs to be stripped, cleaned and reassembled using high melting point grease on the bearings. I know a lot of 5's that don't have the heatshield on the turbo and don't have starting problems and i know some that just won't hot start whatever! |
| ID: 439 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Noisy tappets Question: Mr. Wizard, Even after adjustment, and I carefully followed the Haynes manual on this one, my valve train/tappets are still noisy. The car has been well maintained, its an 88 reg, and has done a little less than 90,000 miles. Is there wear in the valve train that could be causing it or have I balls up the adjustment? I'm using Castrol RS (10w 60) on recommendation, is this too thin? Would flushing the system out help? I've also noticed even after I have changed the oil and filter the oil sometimes becomes black. Cheers Nick Answer: Check the tappets again after you have adjusted them all. If you do and the gap changes then it is probably wear in the shaft or rockers. Try buying cheap oil to flush out the engine with before changing the filter and putting the good stuff in. 10w60 oil should be fine. |
| ID: 440 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: petrol Question: dear wiz i was given a piper cross air filter for my 5, i was told that fitting the filter would cause my car to drink more petrol then it normally does,as compared to the normal air box. as i take my car to work everyday ,and i travel a fair distance, i was wondering if this was true or not?? please help! Answer: It will only use more petrol if the extra power available is used! It should be more efficient and therefore save you petrol off boost. |
| ID: 441 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Struggling to get gears and now a squeak!! Question: Hiya Wiz man, Me again, i'm still struggling to get 1st and reverse and when the engine warms up it's even worse, but now i have noticed that there is something squeaking in the gearbox or clutch when i press the clutch pedal. I've found out that when there is a squeak it's hard to change into gear, but when there is no squeak (which isn't very often!) it changes gear mint!!?? Would changing the gearbox oil stop the problem? and do u have any idea on what could be squeaking? as this could be the problem, it's getting on my nerves now!! help me before i push it off a cliff!! thanks Stu Answer: Could be that your thrust bearing or input shaft is seizing up I think you may have to take the box off to investigate. |
| ID: 442 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strut tops Question: Wiz - where would i aquire them? how do they fit mate, i thought maybe they were welded in or sumthing? Answer: You can get them from a scrappy or a renault dealer/spares shop may have one in stock. They are part of the strut assembly and are removeable by taking the top nut off the shock absorber. |
| ID: 443 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starter heat shield Question: I am worried about the starter heat shield shorting out the power lead and causing an electrical fire. Can I leave the heatshield off? What likely problems will I encounter? The heat shield has caused me problems already and I am paranoid about it now! Answer: If you want to retain the heatshield, cover it in a heat resistant covering like exhaust wrap or just remove it and risk damage to the starter motor from the heat. |
| ID: 444 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoky turbo??????? Question: Dear wizard Many thanks for your advice on my engine running lean a couple of weeks ago, it ended up to simply be a breather restrictor and was sorted when a new one was installed. However I am very worried again after my car intermitantley began chucking out white/grey smoke (stinking of oil) at idle after giving light boost pressure. It only happened about 1/5 of the times I stopped on the way to work. Upon arriving and giving the car time to cool down (from reg. temp, it wasnt overheating), I checked the oil and water levels which were both fine with no signs of emulsion. However on the way home the car smoked intermitantly at first, then started smoking to the point the people were pointing and taking the pi$$. The car was idling sweetly at 800rpm without any hiccups/misfires, it never overheated or went over 1/3 on the temp gauge (which I think means the the head gasket is fine???) and never missed a beat. However instead of the turbos sweet spool up (through a silencer free side exit) a sound not unlike a rattle was audible, but no smoke was visible until idle speed was reached. Ive spoken to BB tuning and several friends and they all reckon its the turbo, but as you are an expert and have saved many people in the past I would like your opinions on the subject. I have found a low mileage second hand turbo for £100 and the manifold gasket and downpipe need changing anyway so should I just fit the new turbo and hope for the best??? Are there any simple tests that I can do at home to see if it is the turbo, or any tests for the second hand one I am purchasing???? Many thanks John McCoy Answer: Simple answer is there are no tests you can do other than removing the inlet pipe to the turbo and seeing how much play there is in the shaft of the turbo. There should be a little up and down but no in and out movement as this is the thrust bearing. If there is play then there is a good chance it will have wrecked the seals. Try the second hand turbo or get yours refurbished for around £150. |
| ID: 445 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: screach not whistle..... Question: Please be gentle cos im a newbie....... Just got my second R5GTT and its sound BUT when my turbo boosts it makes a 2 tone screach instead on a one tone whistle but theres no loss in power,no smoke and it goes like F*$£....Is it anything 2 b woried about...Many Thanx Answer: Sounds like the compressor wheel may be hitting the casing. This can be due to worn bearings. Try taking the turbo inlet pipe off and checking the play in the shaft. Any more than a fraction of up and down movement indicates wear. |
| ID: 446 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Chrome Dipping Question: Alright Wizzard, Ive seen this done on a friends RS Turbo and was wondering if you know anywhere that does it ? (Preferably in Essex) Many thanks Rik Answer: Sorry no I don't but I will ask my imps to see if any of them know! Keep checking back for an answer. |
| ID: 447 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Main Jet Question: Wizzy, I've had my car over a year now and done most of the mods on my car myself, Ever since day1 I've had a funny carb, I ran 13psi with std jet everything was fine but lots of lag, I then turned the boost up to 15psi incar boost and stage1 turbo, europarts fitted a 145jet for me which drank way too much petrol (130 to a full tank lots of black smoke) I had the car rolling roaded at well lane who put a 120 original jet in it and said fueling is fine now! this seems strange to me, I have now turned the psi up to 18 and am worried I might be increasing bore washing????? What would u suggest I do cause all rolling roads near me are really rubbish and don't know what they are talking about and its a long drive to get to well lane again! Answer: A 130 or 135 is normally enough for up to 18psi You could try fitting a smaller air corrector to add more fuel at the top end or just fit a 130 main. You really should get it rolling roaded again to make sure you don't run lean at the top end when you are drag racing. (I know you will!!!!) Any rollers should tell if its leaning off or not. |
| ID: 448 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Difficulty engaging reverse Question: Mr. Wiz, Great site, and many thanx for the response to my hot starting and noisy tappets questions. Here's another for you to mull over. I have difficulty engaging reverse when the car gets hot, and to get it in the syncho crunches. When cold its fine, plus 1st is not so smooth when hot too. All other gears enage fine and the clutch 'bites' mid way down the pedal travel. Accourding to the service history the gear box oil hasn't been changed and the clutch cable was replace 67,000 miles ago. The car has done 90,000 miles probably on the same clutch. I'll try changing the oil and clutch cable but do you think I need a new clutch? Cheer mate, Nick Answer: Sounds more likely to be the oil in the gearbox. Change it and let me know the results. |
| ID: 449 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knackered ignition switch Question: When I start the car the ignition barrel does not spring back to the ignition on position from the starter position. Which results in the starter motor remaining engaged an being turned by the motor once it fires up. If you turn the key back to the ignition on position by hand everything is hunky doory. It's a pain in the arse, and I'm willing to do this on a temporary basis, but will it damage my starter motor? Rather than shell out £120 for a new ignition barrel can I repair the one I've got. My theory is that there is probably a spring in there somewhere which is broken, and I may be able to get a spare by cannibalising a second hand unit. Is this possible? Cheer again, Keep it up, all the good work that is ! Nick Answer: I have never heard of this on a 5 before but it may be possible to repair. I think you would be better off renewing the barrel maybe with one from a scrap yard. Yes it will damage the starter eventually. |
| ID: 450 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb jets Question: hi wiz, how do i go about fitting a new 135 main jet and 1mm air corrector jet???? cheers. Answer: Remove the carb top, remove the carb, carefull about the fuel spilling. look down the carb and spot the small brass screw in the venturi area, this is the air corrector, simply unscrew the old and screw in the new. As for the main jet, remove the brass bolt from the lower part of the front of the carb, look inside the float chamber to see the main jet sunk in about an inch or so. Unscrew the old and in with the new. Refitting is reverse of removal! |
| ID: 451 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wastegate magazine Question: Just wondering when I will receive a quarterly magazine??? Answer: There is no quarterly magazine any more! Surf the site for the details. |