| ID: 362 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Advance / Retard Question: Great grey bearded one, I am a little confused about advancing and retarding the ingnition. What is best? Is it best to advance the ignition to just before pinking level? What sort of benefits can you get, I am not sure what all this means. Any info would be appreciated. Big Dave :-) Answer: Advance will be ok as long as the octane rating of the fuel is high enough (97+) and the head has not been skimmed. It is hard to find the best place for the advance unless done so on a rolling road. Leave it standard until you goto a rolling road for safety. You will get a bit better torque and more response. |
| ID: 363 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke Question: I have just fitted a new turbo (secondhand one) and when the car is ticking over I get loads of white smoke from the exhaust but as soon as you start driving it stops any ideas there was oil in the turbo when we fitted it could this just be the oil being burt off or is it worse Answer: Check the turbo to intercooler pipe for fresh oil. If there is none or it is clean then the turbo is ok. |
| ID: 364 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rattling noise before coming on boost Question: happens about 1k to 2k when not on boost and you put your foot down slightly, could this be the ecu thats died, run a 150 main jet, standard timing at the gearbox sensor, and always run 97ron super. it's very faint, oh yeah the compression is lowered with dished pistons. Help please wizard, i am paranoid that i am going to blow my last yrs worth of spannering up. :( Ben Answer: Try disconnecting the ECU pipe and plugging it. If there is no difference in the running of the car then i would say that there is a good chance of the ECU advance diaphram being knackered. |
| ID: 365 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air Filter Question: When I got my car it already had a few things done to it, one of them being an air filter. Unfortunately I didn't get any information about it. So I was wondering, how often should it be cleaned and how. I was told it was a K&N cone foam filter. Cheers mate. Answer: K&N filters are a cotton mesh filter not a foam sponge! It is probably a Pipercross. Clean it when it looks dirty or if the car starts to run richer. Might get 1000 miles between cleans, might get 100,000!!! Buy the cleaner/oil pack for the filter and follow the instructions included. |
| ID: 366 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil spillage Question: Hi wizard, After topping up my oil, I managed to spill abit of oil, thinking i had cleaned it up i took it out for a spin, after about 15mins I noticed that the temp gauge was sky high, and i could see smoke in my rear view mirror. I got home and switched the engine off, lifted the bonnet to find out I had not cleaned up all of the oil. I left it for abit (30 mins) started it up again, the tappets now sound much noisier, temp gauge was still reading very high and when I switched the ignition off the engine cut out but then started again for a few seconds. I am now worried that i have done some damage to the head, can you confirm this. kind regards John Dolan Answer: Sounds like you may have a serious problem with running on and smoke. It could be the headgasket has gone due to detonation maybe from carbon buildup in the head. Get it compression tested and go from there. |
| ID: 367 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Whats wrong?? Question: i wrote in a few days ago and asked about water coming out of my exhaust and you said that it might be a hose connected to the breather on the back of the manifold?! have u got any diagrams of the water system because the ones in the haynes manuel aren't very useful. i tried changing the hoses round but they dont seem to fit any where else! is there any water hoses going to the manifold at all? sorry to be such an ass but i just want to get it sorted! does it make a difference that the car was standing for a few months through winter? cheers again Matt. Answer: It could be that the head is cracked or even a liner split. Try getting a compression check. I don't have the facility to put diagrams up on this section of the site. There is a pair of hoses connected to the rear of the manifold for the water jacket that heats the manifold. |
| ID: 368 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hissing noise part 2 Question: Hello mate, I have removed the dump valve as you have suggested but the noise was still present. Any other ideas? Regarding a past question I have asked you about maximum boost pressure, I have spoken to my tuner regarding putting the boost up to 20 psi and they said that I would need a chargecooler as the higher pressure would increase air temperature and cause problems. Is this correct? and if so which make would you recommend? Also I’m thinking of fitting a braided oil feed pipe from BBtuning to my hybrid, do these improve the oil flow or doesn’t it make much difference? Cheers mate. Answer: Have you checked the seal around the carb top? It could be squased out or split. It could also be a split pipe under a jubilee clip or something that you have missed. Try removing all the connections one at a time and refit them. I would recommend fitting a chargecooler or alloy intercooler to any car with raised boost pressure but it has been done with a standard cooler fitted. The braided oil feed line is a good idea too as it will aid flow and is better than an old rubber one! Looks good too! Speak to BB Tuning when you get the oil pipe about the best setup for you. |
| ID: 369 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil spillage pt2 Question: hi after closer inspection in the daylight, the problem is nothing to do with any oil i spilt. After reading some past questions posted i noticed questions regarding piston dump valves causing detonation, how can they do that, and as i run a baileys piston valve could this of caused my head gasket to go? john Answer: The piston type dump valves can get gummed up and stick due to oil deposits leaking from a worn turbo seal or (if it is still connected) the oil breather pipe in the turbo 'U' bend pipe. This effects the ecu advance/retard and causes detonation. |
| ID: 370 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: changing the electric window motor? Question: hiya on my drivers door the window has stopped working! the window is fully up! I have bought a second hand door with a motor in it but how am I supposed to get the motor out and refit it? I cant see how it comes out!? thanx Answer: These are very awkward beggers! You must remove the trim panel. Align the bolt with the hole for the window support bracket and remove the bolts. Lift the glass and wedge it up with a bit of cardboard or something like that. Drill out the rivets and unbolt the motor. Withdraw the mechanism complete through the aperture. This is very much a trial and error affair but it will come out eventually! Refitting is reverse of removal fitting new rivets and ensuring the glass is lined up correctly before tightening the bolts. |
| ID: 371 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ONP Group N Rally Exhaust Question: Hiya Wiz, I was wondering which exhaust to get, I want an authentic sounding rally exhaust.. For those special stage effects. I have researched into it a little, renault used to use a freeflow (No boxes or silencers) on there 5 in the 80's. The only thing i have found that comes close is the OMP Group N exhaust. Any help would be appreciated! Also are these exhaust road legal, i.e get me through an MOT The Serg' Answer: The legal noise limit is something like 108db(A) and that is blooming loud! I know that the single silencer scorpion side exit exhausts are 99db(A)@ 0.5m This is quite a loud exhaust on the road. I have no details as to sound levels on individual exhausts other than that. I would say that any exhaust with a silencer will pass and anything without will be close! Just pack the tail pipe with wire wool if it fails the first time as this will reduce the noise level considerably. Don't forget to take it out afterwards though as it will reduce performance due to excessive back pressure. |
| ID: 372 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Weight reduction Question: Wizz, what sort of weigth reduction can you make on a GT Turbo? Can it make much difference, what could be removed? Cheers. Answer: Is this for road or race use? How much you remove depends on you! Stripping the car for race use will save you quite a bit. For example each front seat weighs about 14kg so a pair of light weight kevlar seats or 4kg can save you 20kgs straight away. Rear seats weigh less but if you don't want to carry passengers then bin them too. The under carpet foam in the front is very heavy especially if you have had any water get into it so bin this. You could go as far as to remove the underseal from the car and the sound deadening from the floor etc but it makes the car really noisey! If you reduce the weight of the car to less than 800kg i will be suprised. Let me know how you get on and what you removed to get there. |
| ID: 373 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dodgy Lights Question: Evening Wizzo. I got this really annoying problem with my lights. When ever i turn the lights onto dipped or full beam you can really hear the engine struggling, if u try turning them on without the engine running, the battery goes flat very quickly. It's got a brand new battery in it, i've had the alternator checked. any ideas??? Answer: Sounds like a dodgy new battery to me!!! |
| ID: 374 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti perc fan Question: Hello m8, Since having the engine removed from the car I seem to have got some electrical faults with the perc fan. It cuts in and out when it should b just plain on. Can u shed some light on this please as i have checked all the earth straps ( i think ) and the positive lead has a good connection. Thanx Jamesy Answer: Try a good fan off of another car as i expect yours has seen better days and is begging for retirement! (Just like poor old me really!) |
| ID: 375 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Max boost and a standard turbo? Question: Morning Whizzo, Wots the max boost a standard turbo an take? Answer: About 20 psi is the max but it wont last long at that pressure. Try 16-18 for more reliability. |
| ID: 376 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Flushing ? Question: Wizzard, My car is nearly due it's 90 thousand mile service, my question is whether you would recommend using an additive to flush the engine such as the one you can get from Halfords and add to the oil prior to draining. I have heard different things from various sources, My hand book says do not do it under any circumstances. I would really like to get rid of the crap from in there as last time I put oil in it turned black immediatley. Thanks very much Answer: Engine flush thins the oil and can cause turbo failure. If you want to flush out the engine, buy some of the cheapest multigrade you can find and run that around for 20-30 minutes before draining. You can repeat this as many times as necessary to get clean oil but it could get expensive! Finally, fit new filter and decent oil. |
| ID: 377 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Group A Carb Question: Dear Wizard I have just taken my 5 in for tune up, upon its return, the mechanic informed me that everything mechanically was fine (thank god), but unfortunately the carb was on its way out (permanently running slightly lean), so in this case I have decided to go for group A carb, I was just wondering what comments/suggestions you would recommend. I have a 90 G-reg running about 16psi. Many thanks Big John Answer: A group A carb will only give you extra power at the top end if your standard carb is not man enough! It will reduce low end power and fuel ecomomy due to lower air speeds through it. Has your mechanic tried to drill out the main jet to a 135 to increase the fuelling? You could also try a 90 or 100 air corrector. Worse comes to worse try getting a brand new carb from someone like BB Tuning as this may be better than a group A for your spec of car. |
| ID: 378 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: General Cooling question Question: I have recently bought an 'F' reg R5 gt turbo and the running temp seems to be a problem. Idling or driving around town the temp is fine, but when you get on the motorway and do anything over 60 for any amount of time the temp shoots up. The cooling system is completely free from air. The previous owner removed the thermostat because he said that they don't need them in the winter. I am also fairly sure the head gasket is ok too ???? any ideas? does the car NEED the thermostat? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Answer: The car will be better with a thermostat as it will heat up quicker and the temperature will be more controlled. As for the overheating I expect you have a blocked radiator. This is a common problem and is not often cured by just flushing out the rad. Most people use this as an excuse to buy a nice copper cored rad instead! |
| ID: 379 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: noise and power Question: I would like to know what your advice would be on a decent exhaust, what i'm looking for is ideally a side exit with a loud note, although i don't want to lose out on power. Which brand in your view is best?? Answer: If you want really loud then the sidewinder exhaust is the one. If you want a nice loudish note with no wories about the MOT then the scorpion side exit is nice. |
| ID: 380 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: JETTING THE CARB FOR 25 PSI Question: what jets should i use for 25psi on an md28r turbo something like a 150 main jet and a 100 air corrector ?? & what does the air corrector do ?? Cheers wiz Answer: Jetting is down to the individual car but a 150 main is a good place to start. The air corrector allows extra air to mix with the fuel leaning off the mixture at the top end so a smaller air corrector will increase top end fuelling and allow you to run a smaller main for the same top end fuel. |
| ID: 381 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Handling/electric windows/Anti perc fan Question: Hi, Theres a few things if you don't mind: 1. The anti perc fan dosn't always seem to work so I guess its the sensor thats playing up. It runs really bad when the car is warm, like its not getting enough fuel and becomes a bit jerky. Its ok when you get going, probably because of the cold air flowing through the engine. Where can I find the sensor and how much would a new one be? Or do you suspect it is something else. 2. My drivers side electric window just packs up from time to time (intermittent fault), and seems like it could have lost power. Any ideas? I have had trouble in the past with losing the live from the alternator to the fuel pump. Could this be related? 3. Its handling is pretty much terrible. The tyres on the back are 185/60/13 (On since I bought it) and on the rear 195/55/13 (Mechanic who couldn't find the appropriate sized tyres put these on without asking me). Obviously I know these will affect the handling but would it make it that bad? Of late a knocking sound can be heard from the front offside. Sorry about all this but no-body round my neck of the woods seems to know anything about R5 GT TURBOS. Heeeeeeeeeelp!! Answer: 1. I take it your car is well up on its servicing? This will make a big difference if the plugs, leads, filters, dizzy cap etc are old and worn. The perc fan doesn't really effect the running of the car, just the hot starting. The perc fan has two sensors, one on the carb base and the other in the heatshield over the turbo itself. 2. The electric windows are prone to getting 'gummed' up. Try removing the unit, stripping and cleaning it and trying again. The live from the alternator goes to the battery so it might be a problem there. 3. The correct tyres for the car are the 195/55/13's these are more expensive and less readily available than the 185's. This is part of the reason many people get 15"" alloys as the tyres are much more common. You will have different levels of grip front and rear and this could be the problem but i expect the knocking has something to do with this too. Get the suspention and steering componants checked as well as the drive shafts. If it is a ball joint or bearing gone then it will be noticable on the handling. No need to appologise about the questions, thats what i am here for! |
| ID: 382 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: best type? Question: hiyas, at the moment ive got a peco exhuast on my turbo, ive heard that these arnt to good, something to do with back pressure? whats the best exhuast would you recomemed, I know people selling magnex and scorpions ones what do you think about them? i wouldn't mind a side or center exit one eva, im more bothered about performance than sound, but i nice sounding one would be nice cheers Answer: Exhausts are allways a good discussion point and everyone has there favourites. Magnex and scorpion are both good proven exhausts as are the side exits from redline and scorpion. As for centre exit these are also available from a couple of manufacturers. You pays your money and takes your choice! |
| ID: 383 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti-perc fan wiring? Question: Wizard, One of the wires that connects to the anti-perc sensor mounted in the heat shield (GT Tuning one) some how came loose and earthed on the heat shield and burnt the wire out! I know there are two wires coming from the sensor at the base of the carb that then connect to the sensor mounted in the heat shield, but where do the wires go from the heat shield sensor? The engine is currently out of my 5 and is an ideal opportunity to fix it probably. All the best Chris Roberts Answer: The wires run down into the main engine loom just behind the radiator, at approximately sump/base of engine level. |
| ID: 384 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge and Temperature Gauge Question: Hey Wizard, Can you help? Firstly - my oil pressure gauge has started to become eratic, i changed the oil just before it started to happen! is this the cause or just coincedence? secondly - my radiator is leaking and has got progressively worse since it started a week ago. i have managed to get hold of a new radiator. But the problem is my temperature gauge is going mad, not even five minutes after the engine has been running the gauge reads nearly maximum!! it's as if it has broken. Can the engine get that hot that quickly?? I have only done about 20 miles a day due to the problem and to the fact that i work in london... cheers Wizard. Answer: The oil change may have been a coincedence but it is likely to have dislodged some carbon deposits that are affecting the readings. The air bubbles let into the system by the leak will be causing a problem in your cooling system. The engine may well be that hot if the air pocket is in the water pump and the coolant is not circulating around the engine. Fit the new rad and ensure the system is bled correctly. |
| ID: 385 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tyretastic Mate!!! Question: Dear Wizzie, how much better will my car handle if i swap tyres from 185/60/13 to the recommended 195/55/13?? Also these tyres scrape slightly on full lock, should they or is their summit wrong with the suspension??? Muchos Gracias Senior! Answer: You may find you have a little more grip and a little more steering response due to the shorter tyre walls flexing less on the 195's. The tyres should not scrape unless you have lowered the car a lot. |
| ID: 386 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adjustable boost Question: dear wiz, i have recently got the tuning bug, so i'll get to the point. Now i want a quick 5 and i have been seen adjustable boost, i'd like to do the same, it mixes both everyday practicality i.e low low boost and for weekends higher boost. What my question is who's is better BB's or gttuning's, or are they the same, what do you recommend?? Also how much boost can you get on full power??? obviously it shags the turbo if abused but will it be ok if used only at weekends and when racing others??? Answer: Maximum boost for a standard turbo is about 20 psi but a safe maximum is more like 16-18 psi. Neither companies adjustable boost kits are better as they both do the same job! |
| ID: 387 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Extra Pipes Question: Hi Wiz, I have an actuator with two pipes, why do some actuators have 2 pipes and some have 1, can I remove the second pipe which is also connected to the back of my turbo, as i have noticed some people have removed this pipe. I'm just trying to tidy up the engine bay and get rid of any pipes that are not needed, plus are there any other pipes i don't need. thanks Spiky Answer: This circuit you refer to is the boost compensation circuit. It is only there to add boost if there is an excess of backpressure in the exhaust. Most people have an unprated exhaust or turbo with adjustable boost. This means you dont need this circuit and it can be removed. You will need to put a bolt into the back of the turbo elbow (M10 i think) to plug the hole from the metal pipe and also plug the pipe outlet on the carb top. It is possible to remove quite a lot of the pipework under the bonnet for example, if your perc fan is dead then you could remove this and all its pipework. The breather system can be modified to use less pipework and incorporate a mini K&N type filter. |
| ID: 388 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breather system Question: man of all knowledge! what is the job of the pipe which comes from the back of the carb to the breather pipe running along the back of the rocker cover. i have a little k and n breather filter on the end of the pipe which normally goes into the turbo inlet pipe. but i was wondering can i move this to the degassing chamber top and remove the above mentioned pipe? im i talking crap? do u know what i mean? Answer: You can remove that pipe if you like but you will have to block the hole left when you take out the one way valve that is screwed into the manifold. You may find it affects the mixture as well. |
| ID: 389 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Low biting point on clutch Question: Hello again Wizard, Firstly my clutch has an extremely low biting point, and has done since I bought it. To be honest I find it a bit of a pain in the arse sometimes and would like to sort it out. I believe that the clutches on R5s are self-adjusting, so what do you thinks happened/happening? Secondly, I asked you about my anti-perc fan sensors the other day. I was wondering whether I could bypass the sensors and operate the anti perc fan via a switch? Cheers Wiz, Blakes. Answer: The low bite point could be due to you having the wrong cable fitted or the wrong pedal quadrant. You need the genuine Reno cable and the white and black pedal. As for the perc fan, yes you can just fit a switch but it means you will have to switch it on a while before you want to go out or a while after you have stopped. |
| ID: 390 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oversteer Question: My car oversteers in the wet. This surprises me as I would have expected understeer. Is oversteer normal in a 5? The front suspention has been lowered (presumably by spring cutting) so the rates will be increaced. The rear has been lowered. As far as I know the roll bars are standard. I have standard wheels/tyres and pressures are correct. Oversteer is evident when cornering at constant speed with no passengers/weight in the rear. Am i right in thinking that: 1. increacing the front spring rate without increacing the front roll bar diameter will tend to promote oversteer? 2. increacing front spring rate without increacing rear rate will tend to promote oversteer 3. lowering the front without correcting the camber will tend to promote understeer. In the wet the oversteer is easily correctable, but I would guess that in the dry there will be a transition between oversteer and power understeer which may be nasty.. Is this normal on a modified 5? Answer: Answers. 1) It will reduce understeer rather than promote oversteer. 2) As per 1) 3) As per 1) & 2) Oversteering in a 5 is normally due to the rear suspension being higher than the front or the shock absorbers being dodgy. Other things can cause problems such as wheel bearings, steering ball joints, and suspension ball joints. What tyres are you using? Are they all the same tread pattern? Check these out before getting too worried! |
| ID: 391 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tensioning the handbrake Question: The cable on my handbrake needs tightening. The point at which it sufficiently holds the car is far too high! (On steep hills it doesn't hold it at all !!) How do I alter this and is it simple? Answer: Working under the car (on axle stands or a ramp) locate the cable yoke (bit where the cable goes around near the exhaust in the middleish of the car) and the adjuster rod. Loosen off the locknut and tighten the nut inside the yoke to take up any slack in the cable. Finally, tighten up the locknut and test the handbrake. If it binds the brakes but is still ineffective, then the callipers may need overhauling. Simple and hopefully sucessfull |