| ID: 332 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: NO PERC FAN Question: DEAR WIZ, I AM A NEW MEMBER AND WONDERED IF YOU CAN HELP? HAVING RECENTLY BOUGHT MY 1ST GTT MY PERC FAN DOES NOT WORK ON INSPECTION I FOUND A BUNDLE OF WIRES TAPED UP AND NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING I HAVE CONSULTTED THE BIBLE (HAYNES MANUAL) BUT I AM SURE THAT THEY ARE TELLING PORKY PIES CAN YOU HELP WITH THE LOCATION OF THE PERC SENSORS AND THE WIRING CONNECTIONS 1990 G REG THANKS VERY MUCH Answer: There are two perc sensors. one is located on the heatshield above the turbo the other is in the base of the carb/manifold. There should be an inline fuse just by the perc fan. If not then goto a scrappy and get the wiring loom for that section. Connect it up and the fan should work. |
| ID: 333 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking at idol Question: Is my oil cooled turbo at fault or are my valve guides to blame? No smoke at any speed or rev. But a big puff of blue smoke on initial startup, or when ive been idoling for a few mins, it puffs a bit of blue smoke out. Answer: It could be either! Remove the pipe from the turbo to intercooler and see if there is any oil in it. If there is then it is a good chance that it is the turbo seals. |
| ID: 334 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear Lights Question: Does anyone do and clear / smoked / coloured rear lights for the GTT? I've never seen any. If not, why? cheers Answer: None are on the market at the moment but a couple of companies were looking into making them so keep your eyes peeled. |
| ID: 335 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pinking? Question: When accelerating there seems to be a slight tapping/clicking noise coming from the engine. I've been told that it is pinking. What is pinking? Is it doing any damage to the engine? And what is needed to be done to get rid of it? Any explanations will be appreciated. Cheers mate. Answer: Pinking is also known as detanation, it is BAD! It is down to either a buildup of carbon on the cylinder head and pistons, or lack of fuel due to fuel starvation or too much boost!!!!! It can be down to ignition timing but it is fixed on the GTT unless you have and adjustable sensor. If you do, try retarding the ignition a bit to stop the pinking. (Slide to the left a bit as viewed from gearbox end) |
| ID: 336 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pump noise! Question: when fule starts to get a bit low and the petrol light comes on i can hear the fuel pump whining,and this is very loud and goes on for about 2-3 mins,is this a sign to purchase a new one?Plus with the car running at 20psi[which im not able to change]would i be wise to upgrade to a uprated pump??many thanks ken! Answer: The whining you hear is from the auxilary fuel pump not the main one and is perfectly normal! I would recommend an uprated pump as you are near to the pumps limits. |
| ID: 337 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PERC SENSOR WIRES Question: WIZ, CAN YOU HELP? I HAVE NO TURBO HEAT SHIELD CONSEQUENTLY NO PERC SENSOR I HAVE NO LOOSE WIRES IN THAT AREA AND I HAVE NO WIRES AT THE BASE OF THE CARB FOR THE OTHER SENSOR . I HAVE JUST SPENT THE LAST 3 HRS TRYING TO TRACE WHERE THE WIRES GO TO , THEY DISAPPEAR BEHIND THE DASH BOARD DOWN BY THE FUSE BOX I HAVE CHECKED ALL THE WIRES COMING BACK THROUGH THE BULK HEAD AND ALSO CHECKED TO SEE IF ANY WIRES HAD BEEN SNIPPED . THE HAYNES MANUAL SAYS THAT THE WIRE GOES STRAIGHT FROM THE PERC RELAY TO SENSOR BUT THIS NOT SO CAN YOU PLEASE HELP WITH THIS OR SHOULD I REALLY BE COMPARING MY CAR AGAINST ANOTHER YOUR HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED Answer: Comparison is always a good thing if possible. The wiring comes from the main engine wiring loom and crosses the engine bay (front to rear) from behind the radiator approximately in the middle of the engine bay. Look in this area for the wiring and go from there. |
| ID: 338 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No 4th Gear Question: Wiz, can you help cos me wallet looks like its gunna take a beating. Shortly after I bought the 5, it started to pop out of 4. Suspecting the box, I stopped using 4th to prolong its life. Then over the weekend i got the car on the road again after 2 months and there is no 4th at all, just grinding. A mate said it could be the linkage and id rather be sure its not that before I shell out on a new box. Cheers, Rik Answer: You may need the linkage adjusting. This can be done via a garage or a haynes manual and a couple of spanners. |
| ID: 339 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: won`t fit Question: hey i ve just gone out and had my car fully loaded with the carisma body kit and having sprayed volvo gold but the problem is that my exhaust wont fit out the back of the bumper i spoke to the bloke at carisma b 4 i bought it and he said that the gtt cyber sports 4"" exhaust would fit but now its sprayed and when they went to cut out the hole in the mesh they realized the exhaust was to big and if they cut the hole they`d have to cut the bottom of the bumper off as well is there any way i can get round this with out getting a new exhaust or cutting the pipe on any of it thanks alot duncan Answer: You could try heating the pipe and bending it slightly or just sell the exhaust and get a side exit! If these don't suit you then you may have to get the exhaust cut and welded to fit properly. |
| ID: 340 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Question: Answer: |
| ID: 341 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rebuild Question: hiyas, im just changing the liners, pistons, rings, bearing and shells also ive just got a reconed head from renault is there anything I should do when replacing them, like coating them with oil, also in the engine where the liners sit there's rust, should I leave it or just clean it up abit. Would you reconmend any precoursions when dropping out the crank when I change the big end bearings. thanks scott Answer: All the metal parts should be lubricated thouroughly before refitting and any rust removed. Make sure you fit new liner seals if they are not supplied already. As for dropping the crank, just make sure your toes are out the way!!!!! |
| ID: 342 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tuning? Question: thanks for answering my previous questions. Have you heard of Power Engineering in Uxbridge? Would you recommend me taking my car there to put it on a rolling road setup, as I have heard it is mainly Ford tuning? They advised it would cost 75.00 + VAT and the cost of any parts if required. Is this a fair price? Would I notice the difference in the car afterwards? If not, can you recommend anywhere in the Berkshire area? Cheers. Answer: I know power engineering are an excellent company for fords but i have never heard of them doing a reno. £75+ vat is fair as long as that is not 'per hour' You will only feel a gain in performance if the car is not set up correctly before the tune up! |
| ID: 343 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wierd Electrics Question: Alright Wizard, Cheers for the answer. Im now having trouble with electrics. Firstly, my wipers are positioning themselves halfway up the screen and cannot be reset to normal position. What could cause this. Also, the light that shines white behind the oil gauge doesn't come on at all and all the dials have a tendancy to bounce with music that has a powerful bass line. The car was re wired some years ago with extra fuses & relays put in and i was hoping to do it myself, but I need the wiring diagrams from the blue haynes manual. Any idea where i can get them from ? And how much would it be to get the whole car done professionally and who does it? And the last thing to set my mind at ease, do you need to press out any bearings to change brake discs (front and rear) as i have heard different things about the process. Many thanks again, Rik Answer: Replace the fuse for the wipers and they should then self park again. Sounds like you have a dodgy earth either on the steering column or behind the headlights. Try old back street car accesories places as these sometimes have the old type workshop manuals rather than the new type service and repair manual. If not then try a library. Rewiring the car would cost hundreds maybe even thousands of pounds unless you get a second hand loom. The only problem with this is that it may have faults as well. Front discs are a straight bolt on affair and rear discs incorporate the wheel bearing, which is best replaced at the same time as the disc. |
| ID: 344 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wannabe oven Question: after just having the head gasket and rad changed for brand new ones the damn thing is still overheating what could be the cause of ths??and how can i stop it ???please please please please please help. Answer: There are many causes, try re-bleeding the cooling system under pressure by blowing into the header tank while someone else opens and closes the bleed screws. or Remove and test the thermostat as these are a known problem. or Check that the rad fan comes on. |
| ID: 345 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ph1 & 2 differences Question: Hi I would like to know what are the differences about ph1 and ph2 suspension and if i could change ph1 for ph2? Answer: You will have to change the front strut top or the whole strut as the inclination of the strut is different. You will see the centre of the shock absorber top is in the middle of the hole in the strut tower/ inner wing on the phase 1 and off to the sides on the phase 2. |
| ID: 346 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starting probs Question: Hi Wiz, From cold, my GT starts absolutley fine. Also when it's warmed up, if I start the engine within 1/2 hour, no probs. Though if it's left for more than 1/2 hour, I have real problems starting & end up turning the engine over for about 10 - 15 seconds before she fires into life! The perc fan is working fine & I've cleaned & WD40'd the HT leads in case condensation of giving problems. I know it sounds like the perc fan is not working, though as I mentioned it's fine, any ideas? Rob Answer: How long does the perc fan work for? It could be that it is not working for long enough and there is heat soak evapourating the fuel from the carb. |
| ID: 347 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: SMOKE!! Question: i have loads of smoke pouring out of my exhaust and stinks! this only happens when i come to a hault but only happens now and again! also ive been told smoke comes out of the exaust when i change gear! Its kind of white smoke and hums! Answer: Very good chance that you may have a major problem! Does the oil or water level go down? Try getting a compression check done to see if it is the head gasket. It could also be the turbo but the smoke is usually blue not white. |
| ID: 348 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke Question: My phase 2 5 turbo has developed this problem of blowing out smoke ever since i put in mobil 1 15 50 motorsport oil it would only ever do it now and again but not on boost or even when u back off suddenly or when you constantly thrash it so i changed the oil 2 elf 15 40 and now its worse ond happens more offen but never when you rev from idile the intercooler to turbo pipe is clear of oil and the car was RR at 14 psi and put out a good figure i have a 135 main jet and rich mixture and dont use the bleed valve much 10 psi for normal use. The water bottle is clear of oil and the temperature is always normal even on the RR so its not head gasket before the car was serviced it recieved a flush and since it started smoking i added STP oil thickner. Today i tested the car by accelerating up a hill in 4th from 20mph to 50 and some blue smoke came out is my turbo going to die soon because thats the impression i get. Its only done about 30000mls Answer: I expect the oil flush and the thinner oil have removed some carbon deposits that were actually sealing the gap around either the turbo seals or the valve stem seals! I know people that have had turbo's blow smoke after a lot less than 30,000 miles but if the turbo to intercooler pipe is clean then i would expect it to be the valve seals. |
| ID: 349 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump valves Question: What do i have to do to fit two dump valves on my five. Answer: 1) Get a 'T' piece made up with two take offs for the dump valves instead of the usual one to go into the intercooler to carb hose. 2) Next take a piece of pipe from the small nipple type fitting on each dump valve, 'T' them together and run the other end of this pipe to the 'T' in the ECU vacuum line. In other words it is the same as fitting one dump valve, just with two! |
| ID: 350 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: instant power loss Question: the problem is when i accellerate fast, at approx 4000 rpm theres one loud bang, the engine then instantly looses power. this is everytime, there is no problems when the car is revving at standstill. thanks jase. Answer: Try swopping the ECU with one from another car as it sounds like it could be related. If not try disconnecting the overboost switch (if you have one) as these can cause problems too. |
| ID: 351 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1721 engine change Question: Ive got a volvo 440 turbo engine (1.7 turbo) as you know its the same lump that fits a R5 1.7GTX. I want to fit it in one of my R5 turbos. Has it been done before? will i have to use a different carb or will a standard 5 turbo carb be ok? Ive got the engine mount i need, can you envisage any problems that i might have? The turbo is bolted to the back of the engine & not the side will there be enough clearance? Answer: This engine conversion has been done before, try calling BB tuning for more details. |
| ID: 352 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: More Boost Question: How do you adjust the actuactor arm to get more boost Answer: Remove the heatshield (If you have one) Remove the small circlip from the end of the actuator arm. (carefull not to lose it!) Remove the actuator arm from the wastegate peg. Screw the actuator arm so that it is shorter (a couple of turns should do it) Refitting is the reverse of removal! Test the boost level is not too high before refitting the circlip and heatshield. and finally.......ENJOY! |
| ID: 353 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cross threaded Question: I changed the spark plugs on my 5 and one has got cross threaded, so i can only get it in halfway. Is there anyway i can re-thread the hole (how do i re-thread it), without taking the head off. If the plug is in half way will it do any damage. many thanks Add Answer: It could cause a big problem if the boost blows the plug out of its (cross) thread so take it to a decent garage and get the head fitted with a thread insert. They should be able to do it without removing the head if they are carefull! |
| ID: 354 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Did you receive my last question??? Question: (regarding the intermittent horn on my '5) Because it doesnt appear to have a heading on the web and doesnt have an answer. Please let me know. Cheers Mark Answer: Simple answer......Nope! |
| ID: 355 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water coming out of exhaust!!!!! Question: I have an 89"" renault 5 and ive just spent the last few months rebuilding my engine. After weeks of trying i have finally managed to get it to start. I noticed that the water was going somewhere but i didn't know where! it just seems to disappear! i wasn't untill today that i noticed it was coming out of the exhaust! i have replaced the gaskets (head,manifold,etc) and i even skimmed the head to get a tighter seal. is it just a case of a hose in the wrong place or is it something very wrong? i you can help me solve my problem then my 8 month battle with my car will be finished and it will be down the spray shop for me, cheers Matt Answer: Have you connected the water hoses to the breather pipe fittings on the back of the manifold?????????? Do not try and start the engine until this is sorted as if there is weater in the cylinders it will cause a hydrostatic lock and could bend a conrod! |
| ID: 356 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: valve guides Question: is there any way that the valve guide/stem seals can be changed in situe? Answer: I know that Bruce Hockley has done the stem seals before. He uses a special tool (Modified Ford CVH valve compressor) to compress the valves with an airline fitted to the spark plug hole to prevent the valve from dropping into the cylinder. It is a slow and awkward task but cheaper than removing the head. E Mail him at bruce@gtturbo.org for more details. |
| ID: 357 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hand brake Question: Hello Wizzy, My car recently (cough, cough) failed the MOT on the handbrake being inefficent - none of the other brake components failed - any ideas ? 'Cos I haven't a clue, if it was due to discs or calipers these would have failed in the test as well wouldn't they ?? cheers Answer: Could be the handbrake cable needs adjusting or replacing, or it could be that the handbrake mechanism on the rear callipers is seized. |
| ID: 358 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: actuator arm Question: g'day wiz my car has been rolling roaded at 145bhp there is no bleed valves of any kind and as far as i know its a standard blower. ive noticed on the actuator arm there is a small unthreaded part were the arm goes ito the actuator, so how much of this part are you ment to see on a standard unajusted actuator?( in theory mine should be less than normal with 145bhp?) also do you know were i can get a jet black touring car sunstripe? cheers alex Answer: The amount of threaded portion varies on different actuators but i expect yours is screwed in a few turns to get that much power! With regards to the sunstrip, any graphics or sign company should be able to make one for you. |
| ID: 359 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ref to SMOKE! Question: The water and oil levels are fine. I have recently had new water pump and radiator, its definatley white smoke but only occasionally it could go for 2 weeks and not smoke! its just odd! I had the head gasket checked a while back and they said it was fine, I still dont understand the strange noises from the engine when the turbo kicks in its like a slow hum and whining noise then stops when i floor it! HELP!?! Answer: I think you need to see a specialist for this one as a diagnosis online is very hard for an unusual problem like this. Sorry! |
| ID: 360 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear Axle Sagging Question: Wizzibeard, The rear left side of my 5 sits about 5mm lower than the rear rightside. There also seems to be less 'spring' in the side that is lower. The problem was the same before and after the Car was lowered and before and after I changed to AVO coilovers. The rear shocks have been chaged more than once so its not that! The ride height is identical on both front corners so the problem cannot be attributed to incorrect adjustment at the front. Various tuners say that 5mm is nothing to be worried about but the haynes manual says that anything over 2mm should be rectified. Has one of the torsion bars become tired or could it be something to do with the roll bars or something else? Answer: Sounds like a tired torsion bar to me! You could get a new set but they are expensive. I know that Reno do them for about £350 the pair. You could always uprate them by getting the bars from a Reno Extra van as these are heavier duty. Try your local scrappy as I have seen them sold for £20 before! |
| ID: 361 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hissing Noise Question: While driving the car I have noticed that I get a hissing noise coming from the engine area. Its louder when only lightly touching the accelerator going at normal speeds (30-40ish) but it’s not so obvious when the boost is present, although it can still be faintly heard. I don’t think it’s a leaky turbo/vacuum pipe as I have checked these and they seem OK. Any ideas? Cheers. Answer: It sounds like a dump valve leak. It happens with some types of valve, the spring is too soft to hold the valve closed on the high depressions of part throttle. Try dissconnecting the dump valve, plugging the hole and see if it still does it. |