| ID: 302 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: losing water in a Ph1!!! Question: Whiz - i know the ph1 run slightly hotter that ph2, but..... (btw i have a watercooler cooled ph1) well there's 2 probs :- 1) I don't have nice header tank like the ph2's just a box!! (well sort of!!) and there are no marks to say max or min!! I have noticed a spout coming up inside, with a half of it missing on one side - is this the level indicator???? 2) cos i'm not too sure where i should fill it to - i have experiment with filling ott and just to the pipe (as said above) - filling to the top i loose water, and filling inline with the spount thingy, it runs cooler, but there's less water and therefore i have to fill it up twice aday!! i know the head and all the other bits are fine as i had them checked when i re-built the engine!! do you think it would be worth spending my student money in Reno on a ph2 water conversion??? as would it be worth it??? cheers mate Morrisey :-) Answer: Sounds to me like you have some sort of air pocket which is lessened with a higher water level. Have you tried to pressure bleed the system? Do this by blowing into the header tank with the bleed screws open until only water comes out. You could always get yourself the necessary water pipes and header tank from a phase 2 in a scrappy or splash out and buy an alloy tank and a set of nice silicone water hoses from someone like BB tuning. |
| ID: 303 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water again Question: Whizz - done that but as the return from turbo is SO high up the bottle, it blow air into the system the other way everything has been bleed properly, so i think its time to go ph2 shopping!! but if u have anyother ideas, they would be recieved with thanks morrisey Answer: You could always try fitting the header tank in the scuttle tray the opposite side to the battery and replumbing the system to suit. |
| ID: 304 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: high fuel consumtion Question: hiyas, I haven't had my turbo long and its started to use water, I found out the head gasket had gone, the head has been skimmed to many times so I'am getting a reconditioned one from renault for 236 which isn't bad, before I took the head off it was doing between 15-20 miles per gallon (not thrashing it), also when I am reving steadily about 2000 rpm it seems to hesitate and when going up the revs but seems to clear when in boost, is it the carb? also the spark plugs seems to show it being rich. cheers scott Answer: If you get the mixture checked by a garage and it is set ok then get the main jet size checked as most people seem to fit a 150 which runs rich at less than about 20psi boost. |
| ID: 305 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: uprating Question: hiyas, I am currently getting a new head, I am going to keep the car pretty much standard except maybe in a few months I might save up and get a nitrous oxide kit, also while the head is off is it worth in your opinion getting it gas flowed and bigger valves, I'm going to change the wet liner seals would you reccomend changing any parts like rings etc, my car is G-reg and has 63,000 miles on clock but don't know how reliabe it is, I don't really want to spend to much money but while the head is off it'ill probaly be better to do it now then later on down the road, I am putting on a up-rated head gasket set from BB tuning. cheers for the help, scott Answer: Gas flowing a head is always a good idea in my opinion so if you can afford it, get it done now and save money in the future! If you are going to change the liner seals then I would check all the bearings/ pistons/ rings/ liners etc for wear and replace anything that is even remotely suspect. |
| ID: 306 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dead Question: 2 weeks after getting my first 5 she died, 110mph,white smoke from the pipe and stop, not a bean, i can still turn it over on the key and have changed the plugs as the old ones were blown, i cant make head nor tail of the haynes manual and im trying to get hold of an ignition wire diagram so i can try to determin the prob, any one that can help me get my baby back on the road will be my new best friend for life, thanks Answer: White smoke usually means steam or in other words a blown head gasket or liner. Get a compression check done to determine if this is so. |
| ID: 307 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: liners Question: hiyas cheers for the last info, Ive looked at the liners and at the top there is a slight ring, probaly where the rings come to, apart from that theres no scores for anything else, they look in good condition, is this ring from ware and would it be best to replace them?, also whats the best thing to replace which is relatively cheap and worth to do, when having most of the engine apart, cheers scott. Answer: If the wear ring is enough to catch on your finger nail then it is probably due replacement. You have to decide if the wear is bad enough to warrent replacement as the set of liners and pistons will not be a cheap replacement. You are looking at hundreds of pounds even if you do most of the work yourself. You would be wise to put in an uprated head gasket and maybe even an uprated camshaft. |
| ID: 308 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wheel size Question: I have just bought a 5 turbo and want to change the wheels, i would like to know the size of the biggest wheels i can fit without doing any modiifcations? Also i notice the car is getting very hot, i am not loosing any water and the fan kicks in at 3/4 on the temp gauge i am sure if i dont leave the heater on hot all the time it will overheat what are my chances? S Andrews Answer: The easiest wheels to fit are 6.5 or 7 x 15"" fitted with 195/45/15 tyres. You can use 195/50/15 but they may rub, especially if you lower the car. As for the overheating, try a low temp radiator fan switch and low temp thermostat in conjunction with a flush of the radiator and cooling system. Ensure it is filled with the correct amount of coolant and bled properly as well. |
| ID: 309 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lowering Question: Hi Wiz, I want to lower my car as it is standard at the moment and looks a bit poo. I have read that some springs lower more than others. I can't afford shocks so would it be o.k to use the standard shocks and what do you suggest for springs (about 35mm drop) Thanks awfully Big Dave :-) Answer: Up to about 30 mm is normal but lowering any amount will effect the life of the shocks as they are working in a range they are not used to. They may bottom out at 35mm but it is up to you to try it or not. |
| ID: 310 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: How High? Question: I have a stg 2 turbo (currently running 15psi) and would like to know how high I can take the boost without everything going bang. I would like to keep the fuel pump standard and already have an alloy intercooler, what d’reckon? (mileage 75,000 F- reg) Cheers. Answer: There are no guarantees to what boost any particular engine will take, but i know many cars running up to 20psi on a standard engine and fuel pump with just a decent intercooler, air filter, exhaust and rejetted carb. |
| ID: 311 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: liners Question: I don't think I can catch my finger on the liners (ring), it just feels like a slight ring around it, if did replace the liners, do the pistons need replacing as well, I am going to replace the rings anyway, would you recomeded changing the shells on the crankshaft, whats the other best things to replace? thanks alot, scott Answer: Most suppliers sell a complete piston, liner and ring set. If you are going to uprate the engine then it will be worth replacing the lot and all the crankshaft bearings as well. They are not expensive in relation to the damage that can be done if they go wrong. A new timing chain and tensioner will help make the engine run quieter as well. Just make sure everything is totally clean when rebuilding the engine especially the oil and waterways. |
| ID: 312 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: noise Question: whiz - had a vibration on the front left for a while now and thought i should check it out - as it was only happening when i was giving it some!! changed my driveshaft for a spare and the vibration has gone - one of the roller bearings was sticky!! BUT now with my new one - its knocks really loud when i throw it into a sharpe corner when rallying around these Welsh Roads!!(usually close to full lock) is it the universal joint on the other end - and what can i do apart from change it again??? or do you think it could be something worse cheers mate Morrisey Answer: It does sound like it could be the UJ or a wheel bearing. Did you torque up the driveshaft nut to the recommended amount? |
| ID: 313 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: my noise Question: yeah - but i'll get it double checked!! - uumm think it could be a new drive shaft!!! cheers Morrisey Answer: |
| ID: 314 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Chains that bind us!!! Question: Howdy Hairy face!, I think i may need to change my timing chain and tensioner as it rattles a bit(i think) Any advice on changing it and any special tools needed. Seems very restrictive down there!! I think the haynes manual fibs a bit!! Cheers big ears...................... Answer: You are a cheeky young pup but i am going to forgive you this time! You don't need anything more 'special' than an allen key and a few spanners. This job is much easier to do with the engine either raised up or removed from the car completely. I would leave it until you need something else like a clutch doing and save yourself a lot of time and knuckle skin! The timing chain may rattle but i have never heard of one snapping. |
| ID: 315 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Front Bumper Question: Wiz, Although I am nearly 23 I find it quite hard to grow facial hair, how can I grow a montrous beard like yours? Also If I cut the front slats out of my bumper to be replaced by mesh will I have to respray the whole thing ? Cheers Big Dave :-) Answer: My monsterous beard as you put it is grown with years of patience and lots of manly hormones! As for the bumper, depending on how you cut it, you should manage to just touch up a few bits but it won't look as good as a full respray! |
| ID: 316 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Vent Question: Hi again Wizzy-wig, If I put a scooby vent on my 5 will a lot of water get in when I drive / park up. Will this cause a problem? It would be situated around the carb area and I am a little worried. Cheers Big Dave :-) Answer: Firstly, scooby vents are old hat on the 5 and in my opinion don't suit it at all! It will force water onto the carb area assuming that is where you fit it as you drive along in the rain and i expect some will get in when you are stationary too. |
| ID: 317 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: help Question: To Mr T Wizard, when i came to start my car the other day the battery lights etc came on but when i turned the key to start nothing happened, i checked the battery and it was fully charged so i messed about with the light switches and when i pressed the hazard light button a noise came from near the fuse box where i also noticed some relay's,these couldnt be the problem could they? Answer: It could be that the small exiter lead has come off of the starter motor, this would cause a nothingness to happen when the ignition is turned. |
| ID: 318 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Problems Going From 4th To 3rd Question: Wizard, When going from 4th into 3rd my gearbox makes a crunching noise and is hard to select. However 2nd to 3rd is fine. This all seemed to start after the 'anti wobble' spring snapped. I have since replaced this and messed around with various spring tensions but to no avail. Double declutching and blipping the throttle doesnt help either. The only things that kind of work (Not all the time) are going from 4th over to 2nd (Not going into 2nd though) and then into 3rd or changing gear really fast. All the other gears seems ok so I suspect its a dodgy syncromesh and yet another new box, unless you have other ideas...... Thanks In Advance. Answer: Could be a dodgy selector or syncromesh. Try adjusting the gear linkage from the stick to the box as this could be part or all of your problem. |
| ID: 319 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb top Question: yes there is definately a performance loss and aweful whineing noise. Answer: Try making a restrictor to fit into the actuator pipework about the same size as the one on the plastic carb elbow. |
| ID: 320 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: liners & pistons Question: hiyas, cheers for the last help Ive just got my new head from renault, and ive got a up-rated head gasket set from bb tuning, as I said before the problem was the head was knackered (been skimmed to many times) the expansion tank was getting pressurised and it was drinking the petrol, the problem is there was a bit of water getting into the engine (not alot but enough to see on dip stick), is this from the head gasket or from the wet liners seals? how likely is it being the seal?, ive bought new seals but how hard is it to change them?, I can catch my finger nail on the liner lip, but its not alot, also how hard would it be to change the liners and pistons I can get a set from bb tuning for 260 pounds (apart from lip the liners look good), ive been told once the pistons and liners come out & changed if theres any problem with the crank and other parts of the bottom end it will mess the engine up. What can you recommend thanks alot, scott...... Answer: As you have the head off you just have to remove the sump, remove the big end bearing caps (after you have marked the number and location of each one) and push the liner and piston up together. Roll off the old seal, clean up the liner and locating ring on the block and refit. I would replace all the bigend bearings if the are marked at all. |
| ID: 321 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: backfiring Question: I've switched my exhaust from a 2"" peco to a 4"" sportex, now the problem is its backfiring like hell !!! WHY ???? thanks Jase. Answer: Could be an air leak in the system at a joint! |
| ID: 322 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no ignition lights Question: After having a small problem with my wheel and a curb at a silly speed (not me, last owner honest) i have had to replace the subframe. Since doing this I can no longer start or turn the engine over I have had sparks coming from the exhaust if, if anyone can help me it would be much welcomed as I have been standing looking at the danmed thing doing nothing but scratching my arse! Answer: Are the sparks when you try the ignition? If so then it is a good chance there is a wiring fault like the engine earth is disconnected or the positive cables at the starter are loose/off. |
| ID: 323 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Detonation Question: Wizzibeard, What are the merrits of having the combustion chambers machined to remove the squish area, apart from lowering the compression? Some say that the shape of the chamber is vital in ensuring the combustion wave front is controlled i.e the charge is concentrated into the middle of the chamber. Others say that the squish area is a source of detonation as it creates high temperature and pressure between it and the piston crown? What is the truth? Also the standard piston crowns are not concave but instead raised in the middle. Why? Should they not have the rims around the edges like most performance pistons. I suppose none of this mattered as the stock engine was only intended for 7-9PSI. Answer: The shape of the piston is there to promote swirl in the chamber. This helps with the flow of gases in and out of the cylinder. I know some people that have machined pistons in their engines that have the raised section mirrored into a dish to get low compression and this seems to work. |
| ID: 324 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: loosing boost Question: my car usually would run at 22psi and it has done for quite a while,i have done everything that is possible for this to be reliable eg, uprated head gasket & bolts, low compression pistons, hybrid turbo, uprated intercooler.....etc....But within the past couple of weeks i seem to be loosing boost from somewhere, when i accelerate i can here a blowing sound as if it is just one of my turbo hoses have came loose, but i have checked that and i can't think what else it could be!!!.......I am now running at 14psi!!!!!!!!!!....how will i stop this???? Answer: Try the rubber ring under the carb top or the intercooler may be split or holed somewhere. |
| ID: 325 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering not self straightning Question: Hi, When I am steering round a bend, in either direction, the steering wheel is not straightning it's self out. Any ideas? Also I seen to be getting a slight vibration through the accelerator when keeping a constant speed. As soon as I wind up the boost, the vibration goes. cheers, Rob Answer: Do you have different wheels on your car? If so are they the correct offset as this can reduce the self centering effects. If not get the steering and suspension looked at for wear or damage. |
| ID: 326 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pulling back Question: Ive just had a standerd size jet fitted together with a carb overhaul kit to try & cure the flooding (running rich) problem! What i am getting now is much improved running, but the car seems to pull back slightly on part throttle, The car did have a 143 jet in, i ordered a new jet from GT Tuning they said they would not be surprized if the car is fitted with a group A carb or bored out, when i asked them if this was the case what would happen with the smaller jet fitted they said the car would kangeroo? Is this what i am getting? The car isnt to bad but is worse when on part throttle at say 30 in 4th when you can feel it keep pulling back? Steve's Raider is fitted with a standerd carb but he is fitting a hybrid turbo next week if the above sounds a possible would it be worth swoping carbs? Still can't understand why it would be different on is (if so) when it only affects my car at low revs when the turbo is not kicking in? Hope you can help Sandra Answer: I think trying to swop the carbs is a good idea, but try it before the turbo goes on to get a comparrison. |
| ID: 327 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Noise Question: when turning right at low speed I get a squeaking noise coming from the passengers left front wheel, and also when that noise appeared(after a run on castle combe curcuit) when travelling at 70ish, and accelerate to 80 or so I get loud knocking coming from the same wheel. Answer: Sounds like a wheel bearing or driveshaft is on its way out. Get it looked at as soon as possible. |
| ID: 328 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: nasty on start up Question: Afternoon Sir, started the car up yesterday and she did not sound healthy - was as if it was missing a cylinder, very lumpy revs on blipping the accelerator and I thought I could hear the turbo spinning up when stationery !! - there was definetly a whistle, after about 2 mins though all returned to normal, can you see anything in your crystal ball that could be the problem ? cheers Answer: Could be a fouled up plug or slightly dodgy lead that causes the lumpyness. The turbo can spin up at tickover and can even produce boost when revved hard enough at a standstill. |
| ID: 329 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Squeaking Noise Question: Hi, My car has developed a nasty squeaking noise when turning the steering wheel, there in no play in the wheel can you help. Answer: Could be the plastic surround rubbing on the back of the wheel. |
| ID: 330 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Flowing the intercooler Question: Dear Wizard, I have heared about this intercooler mod, involving removing the flap to increase air flow. Please could you fill me in on the subject and expain how to do this. My cars' fairly standard at the moment so any (Cheap) performance tips would be appreciated. Cheers! Answer: You have to bend up the little tabs and remove the top of the intercooler. BE CAREFULL as they break off quite easily. Then remove the themostat part and use a screw to hold the flap open. Make up a piece of alloy or plastic to separate the two sections of intercooler and then fix that in place. As for cheap tips, adjust the actuator arm to increase boost to about a third of the way into the red shaded area of the boost gauge for much more power and fun! |
| ID: 331 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: judder!!! Question: my so called std turbo is running at 20psi on a straped and flowed intercooler,and when putting my foot down straight to the floor the car starts to judder!when the revs go round to about 3-4k the judder starts to ease off!could this be due to a std intercooler or std carb?many thanks ken. Answer: It could be a few things. Try renewing or cleaning the plugs, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap. Your fuel pump might be struggling to keep up with the required flow. Get your jets checked, try a 135 main and 90 or 100 air corrector. If you turn down the boost a little does the problem go away? |