| ID: 4180 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bonnet Question: bonnet hinges are they welded or bolted Answer: bottom part of the hinge : tack welded onto the front light housings. top part of hinge : bolted to bonnet. |
| ID: 4181 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling Probs Question: Hey Wiz Please can you give me a bit of advice on this matter.... Engine wise, my car is 100% standard When I first bought my Darling (piece of shit) 5, just after x-mas, She ran nice, the temp gauge needle would sit at about 45 degrees constant. As the weather got hotter at the start of summer I noticed the gauge ran a little hotter depending on the outside temp... This I thought should be normal.. One day I jumped in to do a 80 mile round trip, About 15 miles down the road I was suddenly alarmed to see my temp gauge nearly at the top... I backed right off an sat at 50 an she cooled to the 3/4 mark but no lower... Ever since then she runs at the 3/4 mark, and higher under boost... I'm a mechanic so I know this should not be happening!!! After inspection of all hoses the only thing I could see wrong was a kink in the hose from the carb to inlet manifold. I sorted that prob but she still runs hot... After a run when I take the top off the expansion tank, there is no excess pressure build up like you would normally find with a blown head gasket... can you shed any light on my dilema... I would be very gratefull Peace and Respect Answer: change the thermostat and the rad fan switch for the low temp items, also flush the rad out...maybe even replace it if you feel its buggered. this should sort it out. |
| ID: 4182 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: getting hot Question: I've fitted a front mount intercooler and a front mount intercooler to my gt turbo. Every time i put my foot down now the temp gauge goes over the two thirds mark and still climbs so I have to let off. I've pulled the thermo stat out but it still gets hot. The car also has a low temp fan switch and copper core radiator fitted. The system has been properly bled. I've seen many other gt turbos fitted with the front mount oil cooler and intercoolers. How do they over come this problem. Thanks. Answer: is the rad fan turning itself on?- if it aint check the relay that controls it...the one infront of the alternator. |
| ID: 4183 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: nos kiy Question: what would be the best nos kit to get for a r5 turbo? Answer: either NOS systems or Wizards of NOS. both are ok. also nitrous express is supposed to be good. ZEX has had some dodgy reviews. |
| ID: 4184 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Reduction in boost pressure Question: Hi wiz, how de do de? im totally miffed mate! I have had a sudden reduction in boost pressure, I run a in car adjustable boost valve that normally controls the level from 10 to 20 psi ! however I can no longer get more that 12 psi ? The actuator is fine as is the dump valve along with the perc fan sol valve, wastegate penny valve has been inspected and is ok, i have removed the boost valve (that is fine) and plumed it up with the cup style, no change! even tryed the boost valve straight from the actuator to the carb take off and no matter what i do its fooking 12 psi! oh... and the gauge has also been checked. what the fek is going on spark? the only thing i can think of is that my turbo is shagged! any ideas mate? cheers again very unhappy bunny, Kingscott  and to rub salt in, i got blown by a focus ST170, ""oh the shame, forgive me"" Answer: open yer eyes me old mukka.... check for boost leaks. borrow a mates pipes and the intercooler to the carb top and see if this helps. then suspect the turbo... you could always briefly try pullin the actuator pipe off and seeing what happens, just for a fraction of a second....  |
| ID: 4185 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turning up the Boost in R21 vol3 Question: Cheers Wiz, Succesfully turned boost up to 0.9 bars =) But not the right way I´m afraid ?? I left amalvalve in it´s place, also I left the ""filter"" in actuator pipe and installed the bleed valve. Of cauz I blocked the one which I don´t need. After that I tryed to use the bleeding and nothing happened I didnt gain more boost, even I openned quite lot.. ?External boost gauge showed bout 0.5-0.6 bars. (It was measured from injection box (ECU) with T-piece) Readings in the standard meter was about half in the scale, not even near the ""red"" area. Then I taked the original T piece of from the ECU and used the external gauge straight to the ""cap""(Inlet manifold) And then I got boost readings 0.9bars MAXIMUM! (And now is the boost regulating valve in the ECU disconnected, not the wires, but the pipe is sucking atmospheric air only and not sniffing the boost pressure anymore) Please try to take sence what I´m trying to explain... Everything should be in order and working, intercoolers, pipes.. I tryed the Garret´s wings and those are really ""sensitive"" and there is no black smoke (Thank god) T.I.A Answer: Turned the boost up to .9bar? The 21T runs .9bar as standard mate. Remove the little 'filter' thing, its a dampener and when its gone you'll get some real nice chatter on gear change. You'll struggle to get it higher without another bleed i think as the amal valve will try and compensate to set boost to the std 13.2psi (900mbar). Take your boost pressure reading from the inlet manifold and return all the other stuff to how it was before. Don't leave anything unconnected and open to atmospheric air. All you need to do is set it up to bleed enough pressure off from the actuator feed line, and it'll work. |
| ID: 4186 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RE209 ADJUSTMENT Question: I am trying to find the proper setting for my ECUs (Renix RE209, phase II car)allen screw which adjusts (if I am correct) the advance supplied by the ECU, according to the vaccum (pressure) at the bottom of the carb. I know it should not have being changed at the first place but... Any suggestions? Answer: the RE209 has no adjustment....its the RE208 which has the allen key adjust. |
| ID: 4187 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RE239 ECU Question: Is the specific ECU type providing better characteristics than the std 208-9? Where does it come from (Renault Sport?)? If so, can someone get his hands on one? Answer: it would cost a fortune to buy one new. is the RE239 a normally aspirated car's ignition unit? if so it wont work and you will blow your engine up. |
| ID: 4188 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Side Exit Question: I have a side exit on my 5, but the exhaust keeps breaking where the downpipe meets the cross over pipe. Its got 1 mount at the rear. Is there anything i can do 2 stop it breaking because its the 4th time its happened. do u have any ideas? Answer: is it the bracket that joins the block from the join that keeps breaking? or is it the actual join that is cracking...im not sure from your question..... |
| ID: 4189 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Low compression pistons? Question: Hi. I want to know what are the advantages of having low compression pistons and rings? thanks Answer: it'll be very hard to find low comp rings.... unless u blow your engine up.... the low comp pistons on the other hand let u run more boost, but make it run a bit more sluggish when not on boost (apparently) |
| ID: 4191 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo Question: ive got a turbo on order its here tomorrow i was wondering whats the best oil to use to run it in and the how many miles should i run it in for.and once it is run in what oil should i use or is it the same?? Answer: try 15w40 magnatec. run it in for 250 miles, or whatever the turbo manufacturer tells you too. then when it blows they can void the warranty and tell u that u have low oil pressure and swarf in your engine.....gee thanx. |
| ID: 4192 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: concept 300 Question: hi i bought a concept 300 im in the process of wiring it up i dont need the insurance certificate it dont effect mine i just need a diagram or wiring instructions im bored of analizing all the wires with a multimeter 2 see wat does wat HELP HELP HELP AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!! where can i get one or can u help explain it 2 me plz thanks Answer: try an autoelectrician or a alarm fitting place....or maybe even clifford themselves!!! |
| ID: 4193 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RE209 ADJUSTMENT... Question: Dear wizard, you wrote that ""the RE209 has no adjustment....its the RE208 which has the allen key adjust."" However I have both of these units and the adjusting part is absolutely the same: there is a plastic cup in front of the vaccum diaphragm. If you remove it an allen screw appears which control the pressure applied to the diaphragm via the in between spring. Answer: hmmm, interesting!!! , the question is, which do you turn it and what damage are you going to do to the very thin wire that control the advance inside it!!! - best leave it alone.... |
| ID: 4194 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Spongy!! Question: Hi wiz mate. Just had my brake servo fitted and master cylinder replaced. The brakes got bled but the pedal seemed to be more spongy than previously. I took it down to the garage and had new brake pads fitted all round. I also had new calipers on the rear. The system has been bled again and the pedal seems to be slightly firmer. Will the pedal firm more or does it sound shagged!!!? It passed its brake test on the mot very well but still seems different from before. Cheers!! Answer: i think the pedal is supposed to have a slight spongy feel to it. as i remember it, when you apply the brakes , doesnt the driving instuctor tell you to squeeze it with your foot, like a sponge???? if the braking effect is good, then id just get used to it. maybe u got used to it being fecked- thats why its different now. |
| ID: 4195 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Battery Relocating and the MOT Question: If I move my battery inside the car and securing it properly can I still pass an MOT? Im think along the lines of a fail on it coming loose in a crash and being thrown forwards at the windscreen? Am I right in assuming that the negative terminal just earths straight to the chassis of the car? Cheers wizo Answer: the negative does earth to the body of the car. as long as the battery is secured firmly then it should be fine...after all..original beetles have them under the rear seat.....and E30 bmw's have them in the boot....u catch my drift. |
| ID: 4196 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: side exit Question: The bolts that go through the bracket keep on breaking. Answer: check your engine mounts are ok. this could cause the engine to move alot, and hence cause undue strain on the bolts that u are talking about. i.e when u boot it, the engine rotates backwards, this bends the exhaust...alot. |
| ID: 4197 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil brether pipes Question: can you tell me where i can get a pic of the pipe layout as im not sure were they go thanks Answer: check the pictures of people engine bays on the personal profiles. or even better check the files section of the site.- i just did and found some stuff 
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| ID: 4198 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: steering Question: hi there wizard iv got a little problem when i go round a left hand bend with abit of throttle the steering wheel judders quite bad but if i go round a bend without touching the throttle its fine?? thanx Answer: check your tierod ends and steering components. |
| ID: 4199 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: windows Question: My drivers side window has starting failing to move up or down and is stuck halfway up, but sometimes it works again. What needs fixing/replacing?? Answer: take the interior door card off. take the plug out of the top the window motor.... clean it and recrimp it. then put back on motor, and cover with vaseline, or get a plastic sheet and position, so that water dripping frpm the window above does corrode the plug any further. |
| ID: 4200 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Radiators Question: Im after a larger radiator for my 5 and ive got a local renault breakers near by, any ideas if a larger rad off a clio,megane,laguna would fit? plus im looking in2 buying a front mounted intercooler which wood also need 2 fit behind the front bumper!!!! please help mate Answer: the cossie 2wd intercooler fits....but i also heard that the fontera td one does too...but i think that requires alot of work! the rad off a clio diesel fits, but it has no oil cooler.- this is very important to the 5....so i wouldn't entertain the thought of using the car without one!!!! |
| ID: 4202 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: twats Question: finaly ended up buying a turbo off mad4it and i put it together and put it on the manifold and one of the nuts wouldnt screw on to the stud properley because part of the turbo was in the way stoping the nut from turning???? and then after pissing about i decided id try screwing the oil feed pipe into the turbo but it would'nt because it was to small 4 the pipe to even go in never mind the thread??? is there a braided pipe that will fit in or is the turbo wrong its a mad230 twats! Answer: oh dear oh dear dear dear!!! this is the trouble with buying hybrid turbos...u have to have all the correct bits to fit it. u need to make sure the oil feed pipe u have will fit the oil inlet and also that they supply the correct oil outlet adapter. you best speak to Danny@mad4it and tell him what u have and what u need...tell him the turbo wizard sent you *lol* |
| ID: 4203 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: crunching second gear Question: got a brand new gear box and group n clutch from gt tunning, trailed my car home and when i started going out in it, now and again it crunches when putting into second. do you know what this could be? Answer: have you filled it properly with oil?- is the engine moving backwards too much in 2nd gear?- this could mean that you aint getting it into gear properly, due to a dodgy engine mount!!! |
| ID: 4204 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost reduction & water injection Question: RE boost reduction :Hi mate, turns out my headgasket has gone as i have chedder in my oil and nasty oil in my water!!! I could cry! I cant believe that i was loosing 10psi though it though? anyway....ive just picked up a s1 water injection system for the motor (even though it seems to have developed its own) do you know where is best to situate the water spray nossle, do i have to tap into the inlet manafold, boost pipe, or carb elbow? thanks again Adam Answer: i tapped mine into the back of the dump valve t piece, but some people squirt theirs into the exit of the intercooler. the theory being, that the water has further to travel in the hot air, and hence absorbs more of the heat energy from the inlet charge. |
| ID: 4205 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dash gauge Question: hello !! i have not had my 5 long but i noticed that the boost gauge on the dash wasnt working. i took the dash out and found that there was no oil pipe going to the back of it . where does the pipe come from so i can fit a new one? thank you . mike Answer: hmmm.....last time i checked there should be no oil pipe going to the back of the boost gauge. the boost gauge should have a seethru pipe connected to it that comes from the bulkhead behind the carburettor. you can always fit a new pipe if u want to, but its better to get a whole new gauge with associated pipework, as then you'll have a proper idea what boost you are running. |
| ID: 4206 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dash Question: where does the see-through pipe from the back of the boost gauge connect to ? thanks again. Answer: it goes thru the bulkhead, and then connects to one of the pipes that lead off the drivers side of the carb top. |
| ID: 4207 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Sick Gearbox/Diff Question: Hi Whiz, New to the site and gotta say I'm really impressed with the tech info. Anyways just pulled my 87 5 Turbo out of the garage for the first time in about 3 years and about to start restoring it to it's former glory! The last time I drove it regularly there was a droaning noise from what I thought was a bearing on the way out. Changed both front wheel bearings but the noise was still there, threw 2 new driveshafts in but still the same droan was there. Any ideas as to what it could be? One major factor that could help is that after taking it for a spin yesterday it's decided to p*ss all the gearbox oil out overnight! No other symptoms other than the droaning noise, which increases with the speed of the car. Possibly Diff shot me thinks??!! Any help would be much appreciated..... Cheers, Pete. Answer: get a recon box mate, you know it makes sense. must be a crack in the housing...which aint gonna be easy to fix. sorry mate. |
| ID: 4210 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: car runs then judders to a stop Question: hey wiz back again like the renegade master...the five is really pissing me off now...the car ran fine for ages...then suddenly one night it cut out...even at low revs..so it runs then decides to cut out and then wont start again for a while? whats the hells the matter with it? can smell petrol when it starts...a guy sugessted it might be my fuel pump and that no fuel is getting to it only that which is in the engine is being used...but if this was the case it wudnt start again wud it as there wud be no fuel...he sugessted a feed from the fuel pump so its on all the time to ignition..what do you think it cud be..i darent drive it as it is doing it often now...help us pls Answer: get the flywheel sensor checked out |
| ID: 4211 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cutting out Question: My car keeps cutting out. It ssplutters a little then just completely gives up , pumping the accerator takes no effect. I no expert but can it be fuel pump or ignition??? please help Answer: try the timing sensor over the top of the gearbox first...it may have melted. then suspect the fuel pump. try shorting out the fuel pump relay, so it runs all the time when the car is on. |
| ID: 4212 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oilcooler necessary? Question: hey wiz. im thinking bout gettin an oil cooler for my car,to be specific ktec's kit. is it necessary? is an oilstat needed to keep the oil temp right? ps my car highly modded Answer: the oil cooler is not totally necessary, but it does keep the engine water temp lower than standard..... anoilstat is definately needed with oil cooler kit. |
| ID: 4213 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel inj Question: hey wiz have u heard good things about bb tuning's fuel inj kit? is it a good idea or do u prefer the group 'a' carbs? Answer: which fuel injection kit? i know they do the addition small injectors that go straight into the inlet manifold.... but i also heard on the grapevine that certain tuners maybe releasing proper efi kits soon.... could be worth waiting for. |