| ID: 4046 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sorted Question: yea didnt relised there was a gasket on the other side of the plate nice 1. Answer: repeat the following phrase 100 times ""the turbo wizard is great, ill send him £20 in the post"" it might work one day!!! 
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| ID: 4047 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: steering rack Question: Hi mate, Just a quick un! Im removing my power steering from the 5gtt (yer power steering on a gtt????) Has the standard (non power steering) gt turbo got a ""quick rack"" compared to such off a campus or gtx, or would i have to buy one? if so where can i get one? and has the columb got a square drive or spline on the GT? thanks bud Adam  Answer: the standard gtt rack is allegedly quicker than the standard 5. but....the phase 1's and phase 2's have different column bits.... one is splined the other is square! check yours, and then get whoever u buy one off to check theirs too. |
| ID: 4048 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: in car fan switch Question: alrite wiz, ive got a in car fan switch for the rad fan, unfortunatly this stopped workin for no reason, have u got any ideas wot cud hav happened? Answer: probably the earth or the live for the switch has come loose. best check to see that the switch has some sort of feed into it. maybe check the fuses too. |
| ID: 4049 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bug bhp Question: Hi wizzard, i need advice, looking to be able to run 300bhp on the quarter, running about 200 daily Ive go tloads of parts here ready to build the engine, the question is What parts do i need to replace and ugrade? Thanks Answer: the list is huge....probably the best bet is to look at some peoples profiles, and see what they've changed to get big bhp. one thing is certain for 300bhp water injection and perhaps fuel injection will be necessary....so better have yer £2k ready!!! |
| ID: 4050 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Question: im still having problems with the oil pressure reading when i turn the ignition on the pressure gauge geos up and reads full almost but as soon as its running theres nothing could it still be the wires loose still ive messed with them too ???? Answer: you do realise that the gauge actualy does two readings? when the ignition is on it reads depth in sump. when car started it reads pressure. more often than not the sender is fecked! |
| ID: 4051 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Heater Question: Hi wizzy, i switch my heater on and nothing coms out, somthings happening coz when you switch it on the dash lights drop a touch. Please help o great one Answer: sounds like a dodgy earth or even a fuse problem...have you checked them? |
| ID: 4052 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Breather pipe Question: Where does the pipe from the rocker cover breather hole lead to? I am missing this pipe and am going to buy a new one Answer: it goes to the side of the oil vapour seperator (the black pot by the water pump) |
| ID: 4053 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: excessive smoke Question: After a long time standing while restoration of the car taking place finaly put the engine back in with a re-built turbo. When the car was started there was a huge amount of white smoke and an oily smell. I took it for a run and was still the same after. Thinking it may have been the head gasket, I did a compression test which showed equal compression on all cylinders. 160 p.s.i. Also checked the turbo which has alot of play in it even though it has been rebuilt. another thought is that it is the valve seals that have gone hard while the engine has been standing. hope you can help, I'm going spare Answer: check for a blocked breather first. ideally pull all breather hoses off engine and see if that stops the smoke. if the turbo has alot of play then it could be that!!! try the cheapest option first *lol* it wont be the valve stem seals, cos they only really smoke on start up. |
| ID: 4054 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rusty 5 Question: ive stripped my gtt down and have found a fair bit of rust. a hole in the rear arch a hole in the boot a hole in the engine bay behind the wing two holes either side of the windscreen so to the point! what should i do have it all welded? will it cost a lot to get done? or can i buy a m reg campus and transplant the engine/styling and stuff is it possible with not many problems i would do this myself thank you oh great 1 Answer: yes, get it sorted cos it'll only get worse. dunno about the cost, just ask around and get a quote or two! |
| ID: 4055 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel Starvation. Question: Small problem. When I increase the boost above approx. 18psi I find myself having to change up earlier than I would like (5500rpm) as the engine begins to lose power as if it has started to fire on only 3 cylinders. I am running my Tomcat T25 turbo with standard fuel pump & carb but with a 135 main jet. The engine is running great apart from this. Could it be lack of fuel to cylinders 1 & 4 above a certain boost pressure? Do I need to fit a high pressure pump? Answer: try changing the fuel filter first. if this dont cure it then try the pump. failing that you could need the carb rejetting, cos i know the tomcat comes on boost quite late, and you'll probbly need more fuel up the top end. |
| ID: 4056 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gearbox Question: Trouble not being able to select 5th gear, as all gears seemed to have moved over the the right. i.e. 1st is now where 3rd used to be and there is no room to select 5th gear. What do you think this could be? Luke M Answer: its gonna be the movable rod under the gearstick. undo with a 13mm spanner and move it back.... be careful u may need two people to do it, as you gotta set up reverse again! |
| ID: 4057 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gudgin pin Question: just wondering if there's a special tool or something to remove the gudgin pin? Answer: yeah, take it to the local engine shop, cos you have to get them pressed out. this wrecks the old piston.... |
| ID: 4058 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo - Noise on full Spool-up.... Question: Hi Wizard, OK, I have had a new Turbo installed (in my 5 GT Turbo). On acceleration, when the Turbo fully spools up - instead of hearing a constant ""Whooooooooooooooooooosh"" sound (I presume primarily coming from the Induction Kit), I am hearing a constant ""tsh-tsh-tsh-tsh-tsh"" sound !!?  With a Boost guage plumbed in, as the Turbo spools up, the needle travels up to just under 1 Bar (as normal), then when you hear the ""tsh-tsh-tsh"" sound (on full spool-up), the needle starts fluctuating up and down by a few degrees on the guage - until you drop the revs. I do not appear to be loosing boost when this happens (much), but it obviously doesn't sound good!? I hope you understand what I'm trying to say? It would all make sense I'm sure, if you could actually LISTEN to the sound for yourself! Hope you've heard these symptoms before and can help? Keep up the GREAT work !! Best Regards, Daniel. Answer: is your dump valve knackered? also check to see that the actuator is ok. try to see if the blades are ok, and not damaged not too movable. coud be afew things....sorry |
| ID: 4059 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hesitation Question: how ya doin man, i need you help once agen!! if you solve it, i'll send sum quality porn your way! rite heres my problem, basically my car has a slight misfire on boost, under no boost its fine, so far ive changed plugs, dizzy is in mint condition as is leads, changed fuel filter, i was thinking it was a boost leak at the carb top as two of the connections just have screws thru them as there no bein used!!??!! ive checked vac hoses for splits and still no luck? cya mark Answer: what boost you running dude? sounds like the carb could need refurbing, or even a new fuel filter/fuel pump combo... then again you could always drive the 172Cup instead
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| ID: 4060 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: knocking Question: hmm? rite wiz im getting this knocking noise when i start the 5 up 1st thing in the morning etc, ive only noticed it doing this when its cold, it seems ok when warm, reason im askin is because ive only done 200miles on a rebuilt engine (and i have been taking it easy). what do you recon? it aint pinking is it? or am i just being para? also my brake lights aint working, ive checked all the fuses etc and the actual bulbs and i cant see nothing wrong with them, what do u recon mate????????? thank you please Answer: check the exhaust manifold and the down pipes. the exhaust moves around alot, and in 200miles could of moved- so now its blowing slightly. it wont be pinking, unless you turned the boost up *lol* the brake lights will probably be the slide on slide off connector, that has corroded or burnt out abit. when you slide the connector off the rear lamp, have a good look at the contacts and clean them up. |
| ID: 4061 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Charge cooler Question: Watchya ba, im looking to buy a bb charge cooler, im a tight git and was wondering weather i could steel a cooler kit off another motor, any ideas?!!! Answer: try the lotus esprit, they got a charge cooler on as standard... |
| ID: 4062 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17"" Question: hi wizard! im wanting to get some 17""wheels on my r5 with 205 40 17 tyres i want to know if there will be any work involved in putting them on will they go on?if not what sort off work would i have to do to get them to fit! Answer: this usually involves some spacers on the front, some arch trimming at the back, and a lump hammer to the bottom of each shock strut cup, so the tyre dont rub. |
| ID: 4063 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lights Question: rite wizzy,i asked u this previously i know, but i cant figure it out, its me rear lights! the brake lights dont work AND the reverse light stays on all the time. all connections are rust free, the bulbs and fuses have been changed. what else can i check.?? oh i did notice at one stage when i put my foot on the brake pedal that the lights flicked on for about a second and then died again. Answer: check to see if the positive wire to the units are actually working. ie get yer mate to press the brake pedal etc etc, and see if u get current. im also now thinking that on the passenger side behind the light unit is a large earth...check this is ok, and clean it anyway. im not that good at electrics to be fair. |
| ID: 4064 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bhp Question: hi wizard! ive got a standard 5 turbo but with magnex s/s full system and piper filter it is running at 15 psi i got it tuned and he said it was 120 at the flywheel do u know what that would be at the wheels? my new turbo has just arrived ive got a t28 rollerbearing turbo rated as a 350 bhp from k-tec what bhp would it be with this on running 15 psi thanks rick Answer: the wheels figure is 20%-ish lower than the flywheel figure...so prob about 100bhp at the wheels.- approx! you would need the carb rejetting to get the most out of the turbo, as you now have improved flow. you may be looking at 150bhp with the new turbo. p.s- remove the restrictor out of the magnex exhaust- on the straight, next to the join, is a 1 inch restrictor.- cut it out. |
| ID: 4065 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: damage Question: i have been runn9ng mmy car on normal unleaded since i got it 5 months ago it smokes a lot when slowing down or easing off power i thing it might be the turbo but it pulls well and the head gasket is fine ive just ordered a new turbo to solve the problem what damage could i have done 4 using this fuel for such a long time please tell me! Answer: you may need to reseat the valves, as you will probably find that they have burned out areas on the back of the exhaust valves. i also found that my valve stem seals melted when i used low octane fuel. |
| ID: 4066 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gear lever slackness Question: My lever seems to have excessive play and does not seem tight like it should be. Going into 2nd gear is also a bit rough and not very smooth and the lever occasionaly pops back to neutral on its own, especially when going over a few bumps. Any ideas on how to solve this, i hope it's not the gearbox :/ Cheers! Answer: reattach the spring that goes round the gearlinkage. its halfway down it and attched to a 'pip' on the underside of the car. this pulls it back into neutral (central) and reduced floppiness like a well oiled brazlian beauty.... it cold be the engine mounting moving causing the car to pop out of gear...or it could the box also
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| ID: 4067 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pressure Question: got a frontmounted intercooler fitted by gt tuning with the water spray wired up to rear washer,went out 4 the 1 time pressed the switch and all my dashboard clocks went,took it home looked at the fuses changed the 1 it blew,everything back 2 normal.pressed the water button again same thing happend all my clocks went.changd the random fuses,every thing good,apart from when u stat the car the pressure gauge just die.thanks mate Answer: sounds like the rear washer pump is seized, and causing overload of some kind, and blowing the fuse. just see if it works on its own first. you maybe overloading it with the length of pipwork to the intercooler too. - maybe time to get a new one....- pump that it. |
| ID: 4068 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: losing boost Question: hi wizard am having a bit of a problem occasionaly when accelerating hard when u put your foot to the floor in 4th and 5th gear the car will hold back almost like its being restricted however if u ease your foot off the accelerator it will pull more than if you put your foot to the floor as soon as u put your foot right down the same thing happend again hope you can help cheers Answer: fuelling problem!!! change filter and/or pump, and see if this makes it better. also look at yer dizzy cap and rotor too- and leads and plugs, cus under load they maybe failing. |
| ID: 4069 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking Question: hi my car smokes like fcuk when i ease off the power when im slowing down its i whitey blue colour my head gasket is fine and my turbo seems to be ok cause it pulls well dear wizard do u have any idea what the problem might be? Answer: turbo all the way matey. |
| ID: 4070 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: strapping Question: hi would it be possible to strap my intercooler using an old belt what goes round your jeans Answer: yes, but its easier if u goto B&Q and get 2packs of jubilee clips that they use on airconditioning.... or even one of those draper sets, that has a cut yer own length- jubilee clip. |
| ID: 4071 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Gauge plumbing Question: Hi Wizard, OK, Say I'm planning to mount an (aftermarket) Boost Gauge in the location where the Clock is, currently. How do I feed the Gauge cable from the Clock location through to the Bulkhead ?? Will I have to remove parts of the dash so that I can actually route the Cable through? If so, can you tell me what has to come off? (The Haynes manual doesn't tell you how to do this)  Many Thanks for your reply in advance, Daniel. Answer: there is a hole where next to the battery, and there is a hole on the drivers side. both in the scuttle tray- take yer pick, then poke the tube through, then remove the cowel from under the steering wheel, and push the clock out, i think you can reach behind the heater controls, or at least push the pipework thru to the correct area of the dash, to link it all up. hope this helps. |
| ID: 4072 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ticking/exhaust manifold. Question: Mr. Wizard, A few months ago I managed to bend a push rod, which resulted in my car sounding like a tractor. I replaced the pushrod, but I still have a ""ticking"" noise, so I guessed maybe it could be the exhaust manifold. To test this theory I wedged a damp cloth up the exhust - and the car kept running! While replacing the gasket this weekend, I took the old one out and could see no visable signed of it being ""blown"" ala head gasket style. However, some of the nuts were very loose on the exhaust manifold, and while trying to fix the new gasket a stud snapped! Now I won't be able to finish this job until next weekend (no studs, and I plan to just replace them all). But what I would like to ask is; does this sound like the problem was at the exhaust manifold gasket? I have checked both manifolds, I can see no signs of cracking. As a side note, apart from the ticking noise I can notice no other problems, my capilary oil pressure gauge is reading as normal around the 40-60 psi of oil pressure (depending on temp), car runs fine, seems fast still. Any other things worth checking out? Thanks. Answer: read this article...and take note especially No.1 .... its probably the downpipe to turbo pipe join under the car that is leaking!!! |
| ID: 4073 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RE: Ticking/exhaust manifold. Question: Mr Wizard, You pointed me to a document, but didn't supply a link.... Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=20 that better
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| ID: 4074 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Intercooler tray Question: Wizard, I have just noticed that fixings for my intercooler tray are missing and the tray itself is currently only held in place by boost hoses. Am i right in thinking that there should be two bolts with captive nuts required to hold the tray in place? (Renault apparently no longer stock the correct fixings!) There also appears to be no way of getting a nut within the front hollow section. Answer: yes, you may have to bodge this!!! |
| ID: 4075 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: getting warm Question: just had an oil change and is slightly over max. I have noticed that my car gets warmer quicker. Does the fact that the cars oil is over max affect this Answer: i dont think it should, as the oil is in the bottom of the engine and the water is in the top. unless im being a real cretin. |