| ID: 3890 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo 4 everyday & dragging Question: I am after the perfect turbo that has low lag that is good for everyday use & will run low 13's at santa pod. I currently have a k-tec 330 but it is too laggy. It comes on boost at 4.5 k, which mean's i am making up for lost time when the boost comes. ie racing off the light's. Answer: Try something a little smaller. There is NO perfect turbo as you are guaranteed lag with a turbo suitable for low 13's on the strip. |
| ID: 3891 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smokey joe Question: alright mate, want your opinion on this one. Cars puffing blue smoke. Dont smoke when at idle, dont smoke when i accelerate only when i come off. Went down the motorway ben said it never smoked once only when i can to the junction and slowed down. Turbo is apparently brand new and has no play at all and ive checked all the oil breathers and theres no blockages. Even though its a new turbo it could be f***ed still, if its valve stem seals then i can drop a new engine in it. Whats the best way to find out. Theres also oil all over the engine everywhere, dunno if its a leak or not but the smoke is deffinately coming out the exhaust. Sometimes it dont smoke sometimes it does. Mainly when im at temperature never first thing in morning. Foooooooook the joys of 5's!!! Answer: Sounds like it is most probably stem seals. You can replace them with the engine in situ but you will need an airline screwed into the plug hole to hold the valves up while you replace the seals. |
| ID: 3892 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: grp a? Question: HEY WIZ Who do u recomend to get a 'grp a' carb from? The fuel inj thats now avail,is it better than a grp a ? more economy ect? Answer: Fuel injection is the way ahead if you have the money. If not try Europarts, K-Tec, BB Tuning or similar for a carb. |
| ID: 3893 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: avo adjustment? Question: Just fitted a set of Avo coilovers to my 5 and was wondering how to adjust the softness/hardness an them. I assume that + is harder on the back. But on the front i am using an 8mm spanner to adjust them. Is clockwise stiffer? BTW, i wanna go very low, any advice? The back is lowered to the rim edge and the front is level at the mo. I'm running 15, 195, 45. Thanx  1 more thing while i'm here. The adjusting rings that the c spanner goes on have seen better days. No grub screw! But they are still hard to turn. Is this ok? Answer: ur right about the rear shocks as in +meaning harder yes,clockwise on the front top adjustment to stiffen also and as for going very low,lower it the max amount until ur not getting enough arch clearance that it rubs over big bumps etc on the road,then it either time to raise it a little,or do some arch modifications,and depending on how low u go,u might reach the bump stops on ur shocks too.... |
| ID: 3894 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing Question: i read on the site about swapping the two wires on the timing sensor to gain a bit of advance on the ignition. is the advance gain great enough for a highly modded car, or should i get an adjustable one? Many thanks in advance. Answer: it makes the car noticably more responsive at lower revs. picks up really nice. just try it, if it dont work for you, just turn the wires back round! might be slightly problematic at high boost, as it could cause detonation though. |
| ID: 3895 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pressuirised header tank? Question: Only me again mate! Here goes; Split a water hose on the back of the carb bout two weeks ago, changed it bled the car up and drove away! Now i noticed my car smoke a bit at idle so i did all the usual checks and found that tha water was low(faulty header cap, now changed). Then yesterday it smoked even worse but only for a few seconds when the car was hot. Checked the water and it was low, removed the cap and it was highly pressurised, rad was cold, no heaters etc!! Bled the car up again and and noticed when it's warm the water level drops bout 2 inches, then comes back up when i remove the cap? Any ideas cos it had a head gasket a year ago!! Answer: you can blow the head gasket easily, especialy if u ran the car on very little water.- doesnt matter when it was changed. check for mayo in oil filler cap, and then do a compression check. this should tell you for definate what is wrong. id say it does sound like a headgasket, or even you've got a split water pipe and its letting water out/ air in. - both would explain why u need to keep bleeding the system. check all water pipes that attach the head/ water pump region!! |
| ID: 3896 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: i changed my radiator the other day and i now have no oil pressure reading on the gauge even tho i did before can you tell me where i start to look for loose connections ive messed with the wires behind the dails dont think thats the problem?? can u help??? cheers Answer: the sensor for the oil pressure is a large UFO shaped object attached to the bottom of the turbo oil feed pipe, as it emerges out the block. right next to the radiator. there are two wires into it, check u aint broken the wires to it. |
| ID: 3897 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Head gasket fittting. Question: I was wondering if you should apply a sealant to the head gasket when fitting. On my new headgasket I can see that the sealant is alreadly inset in the gasket on one of the sides. On the other there is no sealant inset. Should I apply extra sealant to this one side? Or should I just assemble with no extra sealant at all? Also I just took the head off. and took the bolts out in the right sequence. Will it be neccessary to get it checked for flattness? Or would it be ok to put it straight back on? thankyou. Answer: you dont need to use any extra sealant on the headgasket. just remember to fit it the correct way up!!! always check the head for flatness, especially if its blown the gasket due to overheating. |
| ID: 3898 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running in Question: How many miles and what revs do recommend running a new engine in for?? Cheers Answer: 2 schools of thought here. 1)(if fitted new cam- 20mins above 2500rpm but below 3500rpm) 500 miles below 3500rpm- preferably round town, no long journey's at constant revs. then another 500 miles below 4500rpm. after that should be ok. 2)start the car (let oil get up to temp)and rag the living cr@p out of it for 30mins. then change the oil and thrash it again. then change the oil. not many people do option 2. although i have heard thats what many motorsport people do. |
| ID: 3899 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Top speed Question: How can i reach higher top speeds. I hear that you get wrong speedo reading's if you get bigger wheel's. What about different gear boxes ? Gt tuning suggested a Renault 19 diesel gearbox. My engine is tuned by k-tec to about 250 bhp & i have BB Tuning's water injection kit now but it's not yet fitted. Are other people telling porky's when they say theirs can go off the clock ? I get about 130 mph on 15's at the moment ! Answer: put bigger wheels on does increase top speed, as does changing the final drive of the gearbox. it is highly unlikely you'll ever see a gtturbo go off the clock, purely cos you'd have to have an exceptionally revvy engine, and nerves of steel to even contemplate handling the 5 at over 140mph!!! why do u wanna go that fast anyway? |
| ID: 3900 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Water injection Question: I have just purchased BB Tuning's water injection kit. I live in W-London. Do you recomend anybody nearby who will fit it properly for me ? Answer: follow the instructions that come on the packet? perhaps even phone BB? maybe even talk to yer area rep, whoever he may be these days
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| ID: 3901 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering wheel vibration Question: When i'm going above 60 mph roughly I get quite alot of steering wheel vibration. I have decent wheel's & suspention. I also have a snap off stering wheel. What do you think could be causing this ? Answer: wheel balancing is out. |
| ID: 3902 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Finding an alternative Turbo Question: Whitch turbo would you recomend as your personal favourite for everyday low lag use, but would also give you really good times down the drag strip. Answer: low lag?- t25/t2 usually give decent power and usually pull well from low revs. also depends what u define 'good times' down the strip as. |
| ID: 3903 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: downpipe!!! Question: im making a side exit exhaust, do i HAVEto put the bolts in wiv the springs or can i just bung some normal nuts and bolts in it? also do i have to have water injection to run 28psi on a t25 turbo?! Answer: when the engine moves on its mounts when you 'rip up the tarmac' the exhaust moves too, you need some sort of damping action there preferably. i would definately recommend it water injection. you can get away without it, depending on what carb mods you are running and what ignition retard you have got. but its a whole lot better with it! |
| ID: 3904 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine conversion. Question: how hard is it to convert a turbo to just a 1.4? ive got a 1.4 campus to get the engine from. its for the missus!! Answer: just use the 1.4 aei, and abit of bodgery, should be quite easy i reckon. |
| ID: 3905 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cup and TDC Wire reverse Mods... Question: Dont a search for them on here, got absouluty shed loads of questions come up, too many to look though... Asking you wise one, as I dont want to make myself look a twat on the forum you hear all the ""What is the cup mod"" jokes. Im pretty sure I know what piping is removed, and what part is blocked... but what does it actually do... and what are the down sides.. Same for the TDC wire switch, am I looking at any downsides? Im looking to run around 16psi normal driving, with 18psi for 'overtaking' Sorry for the banter. Dave. Answer: you lazy MOFO! cup mod: downside: may have to turbo boost up alittle to get back to original boost configuration. it's supposed to help spool up and also tidy up engine bay, as well as helping u run a 1 port actuator. downsides for tdc wire switch, is that running high boost you could go pop. but u wont pop at 18psi!!! |
| ID: 3906 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil in water Question: Well i'm back again cos i still think i'm losing oil in to my coolant. I've had a new head gasket, head was skimmed and pressure tested ok. Fitted a new rad, checked the turbo, no oil leaking on to floor, what else can it be? Surely if there was no problem it would be clean by now. There's no water in the oil and power seems fine, runs cool while driving. Please help - i'm stuck. Thanks V much!! Answer: there is a tube that runs up the inside of the head, that supplies the rocker arms with oil. this will not have been pressure checked...i bet!- this can crack internally and cause oil to go into water. either that or the turbo is still dodgy! |
| ID: 3907 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Standard boost guage reading Question: Hiya Wiz! My car is running standard boost and previously when I ued to floor it the needle on the boost guage would go right round to the first thick red line. Suddenly its started going around to about the middle of the ""thick red lined"" section. I've not noticed this before, is there more boost for some reason and is it damaging my turbo?!? Cheers Spencer Answer: check that you havent got a leaky/split pipe to the actuator!!! if this leaks too much air you car will blow up!!- due to excess turbo boost!!! btw....standard boost usually means going to the 'B' of TURBO on the gauge. |
| ID: 3908 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo problems! Question: hello there again, ive got another problem with my r5 gtt's turbo, i had a t25 hybrid on it for a while and it was supposed to be good for 26psi only ran it at 22psi max within 2 months smoke out the back so i got a t28 turbo good for 30psi only had it up to 24psi and within 4 months smoke out the back again, in don't push it hard or even above 3000rpm till its proper warmed up and alway let it sit on tick over for 5 mins before turning it off even if ive been driving it steady, ive got a braided oil feed on it and have brilliant oil pressure any ideas why i keep going through turbos as this is becoming to much of a habbit and far too expensive. cheers Answer: well, ok, lets cut the crap, everyone who says they let the oil warm up and then let the turbo spool down properly is lying! *lol* firstly, i hope you are changing the oi/filter every 6000miles, for good stuff, not multigrade!!! is the oil feed pipe of large enuff diameter for the oil to get to the turbo at high boost/revs applications? is your sump filled with oil, ie: is it to the max or just over with oil? (it should be!) also, CLEAN YOUR AIRFILTER REGULARALY! a blocked air filter really fecks turbos up!- it trys to suck its internals out throught the casing!!!! maybe u've got too much oil pressure.... if u have a seized pressure relief valve in the oil pump then you will get to much oil pressure, at low revs, hence maybe the seals are getting fecked inthe turbo.... hope this helps! |
| ID: 3909 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hozes Question: the hoze from the turbo to the intercooler has a f*&k$£g gert split in it. where can i purchace a new one?? Answer: read my lips! SAMCO or SFS!! |
| ID: 3910 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fluttering boost!!! Question: Hello wiz! I'll apologise now for the length of this question,i've got a feeling it'll take some explaining! The car will not hold a constant boost level,insted it ""flutters"" badly.At lower boost (15psi) it's fine,but anything above that and it starts to rise and fall,very rapidly over roughly 2-3psi.....so at 18psi (carb-top) i'm getting the needle fluttering between 17-19psi.It's not the gauge,as it's also very audible,though as it's such a rapid fluctuation it's not really ""feel-able""......if that makes sence??.At half throttle it holds boost perfectly,but as the throttle is opened further from there,the fluctuation increases in speed and volume. The actuator has been swapped for a different ""known to be good"" one,which made no difference.I've tried changing the actuator feed (cup-mod) for some harder walled hose,which made no difference.I've set boost level using both a bleed valve,and pre-loading the arm,neither of which made any difference. I did wonder about the air filter,which is a large Pipercross cone,so ran it briefly without any filter.....no difference. Could this be a manifold gasket problem??.It is a new one,but i do appear to be getting some sort of odd oily/fuel vapour/mist-type-substance appearing on top of the starter mota heat-shield.....not a lot,but as the only thing that's anywhere near it are the manifolds,directly above.....i think there may be some sort of leak?? Your thoughts will be gratefully recieved fella......i'm getting short of ideas now! Thanks. Answer: ok, easy bit first, oil vapour.... can come from above via the rocker cover gasket, and drip down, or from under the engine, and in some weird vortex type way, and land on the starter motor....some sort of venturi effect i think... this could also be from a leaking inlet manifold, but it would be fuel vapour...only way is to check the nut tightness!!! usually boost fluctuation is that the turbo is operating outside its boost map and not able to produce a steady flow. (i may be talking complete tosh here) id check to see if the shaft is very wobbly, or that when the thing was built, that the compressor cover was machined properly, cos if the compressor wheel not sit straight in the hole, then you get areas of high and low compression inside the housing...perhaps causing fluttering. have u tried running with a very unrestrictive exhaust, to see if this makes a difference?- could be a back pressure issue... |
| ID: 3911 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: misfire when boosting Question: iv jus fitted a KTR 180 hybrid turbo to my r5 the car is fitted with a alloy inter cooler and green filter are the only mods so far. when i took it for a spin when i accelerated and the boost kicks in the car mis fires and i get a puff of smoke out the back?? Answer: u need new plugs/cap/rotor/plugs. won't cost too much, and then at least you'll know yer ignition side is ok! |
| ID: 3912 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: monte carlo bodykit Question: Hi, im trying to find out the cost of a monte carlo body kit for mt gt turbo. I saw a pic of a car with the kit on and it looked well mean. Any ideas where i can find the kit??? Cheers. Tony Answer: ""cos im da man that can""....just keep repeating it....nice...and s-l-o-w http://www.primaracing.com/ProductList.aspx |
| ID: 3913 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: removing battery tray? Question: hey wizo,my battery tray is all rusty so i have tried to remove it to replace it with a new one. i have undone all of the bolts going through into the engine bay and inside wheel arch,but there are two left that i cant seem to remove that go through into the car behind the dash which dont seem to be bolts.dont suppose you have any ideas,or you know, how to remove these?? thanks Answer: one 13mm socket or spanner is needed to remove these items. they are called NUTS, and funnily enuff just happen to be attached to a captive BOLT! just undo them! *much shaking of head and chuckling* |
| ID: 3914 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: misfire when boosting Question: iv changed plugs and leads and dizzy cap. could the problem be to much boost if so how do i turn it down? i dont have an in car adjuster. the turbo is a KTR180 hybrid. and is there anything else that could cause it to misfire when boosting. Answer: yes, a blocked fuel filter, or a dicky carb. replace filter first and get back to me. |
| ID: 3915 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Part throttle dumping. Question: Hello Wiz, Fitted a Forge competition filtered dump valve to my GT today, and it sounds like it is releasing pressure on part throttle. Why is this happening? Cheers mate, Happy Easter! Answer: they do. its cos you've got a partial vacuum in the manifold, which causes the dumpo valve to open slightly. much fun can be had at certain revs going down the motorway....cos u'll find u can make the car 'dump' for maybe 30seconds or more depending on what turbo u have. always good for a laff
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| ID: 3916 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Central locking tempremental Question: On my car the central locking sometimes works and it sometimes doesnt work, do you know what could be causing this problem? cheers Answer: usual answer is dodgy earths, or connections. check all connections to switch and solenoid unit! especially prone to feck ups if u have an alarm fitted! |
| ID: 3917 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: idle???! Question: hey wiz, ive got a new gtt and i bought it knowing it had 2 problems, 1- the clutch has gone, no problem!! 2- she just will not f&$king idle man!!! new plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotar arm! she runs fine but u gotta do sum left foot braking at times! and be handy wiv the choke!! whats going on???!!! Answer: air leak. try manifold gasket, or even unscrew the two one way valve on the back of the manifold and MAKE THEM WORK PROPERLY! - if they are faulty u will not idle correctly.- spray wid wd40, until they work! then suspect the carb, maybe even a leak in the dump valve diaphragm/ ecu pipework, both cause weak idle. if carb is fault, change all gaskets, especially the mixture screw gasket, and the idle jet jet screw seal!!!- both very important to seal properly! let me know how it goes! |
| ID: 3918 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine Question: driving down motorway as you do on a sunday give it a little get off motorway the car is really juddery pull over oil everywere start it up still juddering check the leads take 1 off them off no diffrence wot so ever other 3 it gets worse do a comppresion check no compression on the 1 cylinder wot is it head gasket our wot ? your help would be very gratefull as the car is startin to p**s me off a little and the hammer is gettin closer Answer: not sure what the problem is. no compression can mean a few things. 1) headgasket blown...this would push alot of gas into water system though. 2) melted piston rings... this would cause compression loss and gas to be pushed into sump, and hence oil would spurt out! 3) holed piston...see 2)...similar result, usually an odd 'whomping' noise with it, as gas goes thru hole!!! eitherway, u have to take the head off to see what is wrong! |
| ID: 3919 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rpm Question: hi wizard when i am going along at 80 in 5 gear my rev gage is at 40.00 rpm is this right. all have the last ower muck around with the engine..... Answer: this sounds ok, mucking around with the engine won't change the speed you get at certain revs, unless he's messed with the gearbox or put bigger wheels on. |