| ID: 3795 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Perc Fan Sensor Question: I'm new to GTT, just joined as a member. Hope you can help!! The sensor in the top of the heat shield is for the perc fan (I believe), should it be loose in the heat shield as mine is. Is there an after market bracket I can buy or a minor mod I could do. As it is loose I think it sits on top of the turbo and keeps the perc fan on for ages & ages. Cheers Answer: it should sit in a little rubber bung, that is available from renault. this is assuming that the hole taht that actually sits in isnt knackered either. failing that, suspend it above the turbo by any means necessary! *lol* |
| ID: 3796 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Throttle mechanism Question: Hi Wiz, I have a 1991 ph2 gtt. Looking at several earlier cars, they have the different throttle cable link mechanism to mine (ie. cable goes to an extra lever type mechanism before the carb). In your opinion, does that give a smoother, nicer throttle action to the standard later type linkage or should I leave well alone? If so, I would like to fit it. I have a linkage of this type but presume I need the different throttle cable. Any idea what year this design was used up to, so I can order a cable form my local Regie dealer(plus anything else I need). They are clueless & have the technical knowledge of a blind tortoise, so I will need all the info I can get. Cheers, Alex. Answer: around g or h reg i think they changed it. just stick with what u got. u can get the throttle cable kit from gsf and the like anyway, if u really need to change it. they all do the same job, dont worry about smoothness of pedal!!! |
| ID: 3797 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fiat 20V Turbo Question: Oi Mr wizard , how you getting on with it and would you recomend one  Answer: mines fine, and i can highly recommend them. 
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| ID: 3798 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water in sump Question: what could cause this, also got excessive engine temp but using hardly any coolant, steaming quite a bit. help please Answer: water in sump, could mean water in the oil...i.e reside from condensation/ blown headgasket....or knackered liner seals. if u got high temp, it could be slightly blown headgasket, or a combination of other probs , such as leakin hose or not properly bled water system. |
| ID: 3800 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: WHICH TURBO Question: I WANTING TO BUY A TURBO VERY SOON WELL AS SOON AS YOU HAVE ADVISED ME! I WAS WONDERING WHAT TURBO I SHOULD BUY IVE BEEN THINKING OF THE MAD215 TURBO AND THE MAD230 TURBO WHICH WOULD U GO FOR, OR WOULD U NOT GO FOR ANY??? I WANT TO RUN A SAFE 20-25PSI AT A GOOD 200BHP++ AND COULD U ADVISE ME ON A GOOD CLUTCH FOR THE MONEY I WAS THINKING OF A BLACK DIAMOND CLUTCH??? WHAT DO U THINK??? I HAVE A BIT OF MONEY TOO!!! Answer: forget the black diamond clutch, and go for the volvo 480 turbo pre 1991 job. i would shop around first before getting a turbo from mad4it. just think...where do they get em from??? |
| ID: 3801 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CLUTCH Question: WHEN CHANGING A CLUTCH DO U HAVE TOO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT OR CAN U DO IT WITHOUT???? Answer: 3 ways. 1. engine and gearbox out. 2. engine out, leave gearbox in. 3. or drop passenger side sub frame, and slide box across, and work in gap. |
| ID: 3802 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ??????? Question: My car has had lots and lots of tlc and now starting to p*ss me off. please help me. i start the car and drive it around for a few days, then i will park it up and walk straight back to it 5 mins later, all i get is a constant hissing from the fuel pump and all lights and dials work fine. but the problem is it wont start for hours days, weeks and then all the sudden it will turn over as normal?????? any ideas?update on new parts: new alternator, uprated starter motor, ecu, battery, spark plugs, performance ht leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap and starter motor shield. Answer: do you have an immobiliser on it? if so these were sent by the devil to p*ss normal car owners off, cos i aint never seen one work properly yet. they always break and cause u loads of grief!!!! ok, so the car not turning over....could also be the big DEATH connector, underneath the water bottle. this corrodes and fecks the starter motor solenoid connection up. then trace the white wire over the top of the gearbox...(inside the black sleeve) to the starter motor....there may be a bullet connector hidden in the sleeving that has gone manky..... report back |
| ID: 3803 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dodgy Boost Guage? Question: I have fitted a boost guage where the clock used to be. It reads 10psi of boost max. while the factory boost guage goes off the scale. I understand that the end of the factory guage equates to approx. 18psi so it is showing between 18-20psi compared to the aftermarket guage. This certainly feels right in terms of acceleration/performance. Why is the aftermarket guage only showing 10psi? I cannot detect any leaks or splits in the pipe. Answer: where have u got the aftermarket boost gauge t'd into? if u got it t'd into the dumpvalve vac line, then ur gonna have a split diaphragm in the D/V or the pipe to the ecu has a leak....or yer ecu if boogered. |
| ID: 3805 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flamer kit Question: im trying to fit a flamer kit. i have bolted a coil under the boot, the spark plug is in the exhaust the ht lead is on and ive wired the live straight to the battery via a switch inside the car. i know the earth is supposed to be joined to the earth on the existing coil, my problem is i cant find that earth can you please tell me where that is. (ive tried wiring it straight to the battery there was a very small spark but not enough to ignite) Answer: u need a control box. the way u are going u are only gonna get one tiny spark. if u really wanna fond the earth, then remove the coil pack from the ecu, and u'll notice the two weirdo connectors....one is positive, the other is negative! |
| ID: 3806 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Where do I start? Question: Wiz, I've got a bulk standard phase 2. I have had it for 9 months and was going to leave the car as it is. However, having gone to meet some other RTOC chaps last night in Southampton, I am now tempted to 'dabble' a bit with the engine. A couple of them suggested In-car boost, Dump Valve, Intercooler etc. I don't want to spend a lot of money. Any suggestions? Cheers. Gooner. Answer: ok. first of all turn the actuator arm so it shorts. 3 turns at a time, until u run enuff boost to get it into the middle of the hatched area of the standard turbo gauge. then swap the timing sensor wires. this will be enuff for the time being, and total cost £0!!!! u better get saving pal *lol* - its a long slippery slope, and u are on the edge!!!! mwuhahahahaha! |
| ID: 3807 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: control box Question: my last question was about a flamer kit,your reply was that ineeded a control box.what does this do and where could i find one,is there any other ways round it? Answer: u can make the control box. the instructions are on the net. basically u need two 5 pin relays. a ballast resistor, a condensor... when u turn the unit on, it switches 12V feed to the coil on and off. each time the coil gets a 12v feed 'switching' it produces a spark..... the unit and spark plug should 'buzz' and produce a blue spark, many times a second. |
| ID: 3808 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pump??????!!!!! Question: Just got my 5 back on the road after a long lay off, been driving it for a few days and everything was fine, UNTIL! Gave her a bit of redline action this morning when i noticed the oil pressure was completely gone! I stopped the car and noticed the needal was lifting a fraction when i revved it, so i drove it home. I left it to cool for a couple of hours then started her again, the needle was again on the floor but after a couple of revs it picked back up to it's normal 4 bar! I didn't drive it in case it siezed or something!!! Does this mean my oil pump is fecked!!???? Answer: it means more than likely the oil pressure sender is fooked. clean connections up and hope for the best or get an aftermarket gauge. |
| ID: 3809 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ENGINE OUT? Question: Gearbox is whining kike my misses and i need to know if the engine has to come out to drop the box? Answer: its the easiest way to do it.... |
| ID: 3810 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Question: I saw your reply on turbos from mad4it and looking around for cheaper alternatives. Where would be a good start?? Cheers Answer: turbo technics. universal. midland turbo. AET. there are loads to try. |
| ID: 3811 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Exhaust manafold? Question: does the whole engine have to come out to remove the exhause manafold? or is it possible to undo the engine mounts and lean the engine forward to gain access to the bolts? ryan Answer: for gawds sakes...... have a good look at the site. you may come across this article. http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=20 |
| ID: 3812 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Emissions Question: Just rebuilt my engine but its getting way too much fuel. I took it for an mot and the max emissions are 1200 mine was 9000 !!! It drinks fuel big time! Loads of white smoke is coming out the exhaust too. I've been fiddling with the carb a bit adjusting the mixture, (don't really know what I'm doing) nothing appears to be changing. Also it don't idle on its own. What the hell do I do? Shall I just get a new carb or is there more to it than that? Thanks whiz. Answer: take the carb apart and clean it properly. the idle circuit is obviously blocked. read the haynes manual, and also get a copy of the haynes carb manual... this helps alot. |
| ID: 3813 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch change Question: i need to change the clutch. which is the easier method? drop the subframe (do you lower just the gearbox side?) and work that way or to remove the complete engine and box? approximately how long does each method take? thanks Answer: some say the sunframe drop way is quicker. i prefer engine out personally. i like to see what im doing *lol* if doin it via subframe drop, then drop gearbox end, and slacken drivers side alittle too. also watch for the steering column being pulled out!!!!! |
| ID: 3814 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: knocking noise ? Question: right wizzy my boy theres a knocking noise sounds like its the bottom end ? so you replace it all ie reground crank new mains and all the shells washers etc etc nothin left all replaced ! all good so far rebuild it and start it up and the same noise is there ???? from cold theres no noise but as it worms up the noise comes back ? sounds like when the bottom end has gone ? any ideas ? no oil in water etc stays cool runs and starts fine but the noise and there is no loss in performance ? but the noise that sounds like when the bottom end has gone like a knocking ? any ideas kid ! ben Answer: have yer little ends gone on yer piston? - how is the compression?- i.e have yer rings boll ocks'd up and you got piston slap? havin said that if the oil gets warm and it does it, then its a thin oil thing isnt it? summat could be catching?- 'ding'ed sump? unless u wip off the sump again and check some of the bearings to see that on start up u not fecked them.... u did prime the oil pump....didn't you? |
| ID: 3815 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turn the key Question: im having probs with the igntion key on my car its in need of being swoped is it a hard job and what do i need to watch ? can i change the barrel or do i need to do the hole column ? cheers mate Answer: u can change just the barrel. need the key to be able to be turned. drop the column down for better access. remove grub screw!!! then follow haynes...fiddly but can be done. |
| ID: 3816 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost gauge Question: i fitted a boost gauge so i get a negative reading as well, the car is running at 16psi but ive been told cause ive got a negative reading i might be running at more psi than its showing could this be the case.cheers wiz Answer: you'll be showing the manifold pressure, i.e what the engine is seeing, instead of what the turbo is producing... so in theory you're reading all sorts of losses that u couldnt see b4....which is good. esp as a diagnostic tool! so yes, basically u will be seeing less boost than before. maybe as high as 4psi in some cases. |
| ID: 3817 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wheel Bearing - Torque Question: Just fitted new rear wheel bearings. When i adjust to the specified torque (118 lb/ft) there's still too much play! Have had to tighten to around 170 lb/ft (shut my eyes) to get rid of all excess play - any ideas? tom Answer: did u put everything back where it was supposed to go??? id be tempted to take the disc/ hub off again and check that its ok...look for wear. im sure as you just done it, it wont be too hard todo!!! |
| ID: 3818 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CD Question: I would like to re-build my engine as it as alot of miles on it and you are talking about a cd is it ready and how go i get my hands on it .cheers Answer: i dont think ive ever mentioned anything about a cd? are u smokin da reefer? |
| ID: 3819 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost and oilpressure Question: hi wiz can you tell me to plumb in my 2gauges boost and oil pressure gauge mechanical i would aprreciate your help Answer: did the gauges come with how to fit diags if they did i would follow then |
| ID: 3820 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch Question: you advised me on getting a volvo 480 turbo pre 1991 clutch where do i start looking 4 one how much r they and will it go straight on the 5?. and some one told me to ask u about the GSF website do u know the adress??? Answer: gsfcarparts.com part number R18914 |
| ID: 3821 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil cooling Question: I'm fitting a (KTR supplied) oil cooler and will be fitting braided hoses directly from a oil filter sandwich plate But i dont know what to do with the old oil cooler pipes (where the oil pipes emerge from the block and go on to the rad) Also i'm thinking of using the larger 5 diesel rad to help with the cooling rather than a copper core one, What do i do with the old inlet/outlet oil feed can i just blank it of at the block or should i just use a copper rad and have two methods of cooling the oil? Answer: last time i checked the aftermarket oil coolers use the same sandwich plate that the reno's use! i think u need to look carefully at what is actually on yer car!!!- and what is supplied with the kit. cos i bet they use similar sandwich plates!! |
| ID: 3822 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: headlights Question: hi wizard i've got a problem with my headlights. sometimes they work fine but sometimes dipped beam doesnt work.the sidelights and main beam still work but the dipped beam doesn't.u have to turn the lights on and off a few times then they work. i thought it might be a fuse but if the fuse had gone then they wouldn't work at all would they. is there any relays or anything that might be f**ked as it is only a intermitent problem cheers Answer: try the actual switch stalk thing. these usually break and stop main beam working. |
| ID: 3823 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pinking or not pinking Question: Just bought a phase 2 and love it. My only worry is that i think my car is pinking (metallic sound when on boost). I was told its running stage 1 hybrid at 15psi. It's running standard a carb. I've turned the boost down to below standard and i'm still getting this sound. There is no play in the turbo. Any idea what could be the cause? Might be a silly question but i'm new to this turbo game.Also, my dumpvalve is hissing (letting IN air when revved from idle, could this have any thing to do with it. Thanks in advance mate. What a site this is !!!!!!!!! Answer: the dump valve will hiss when revved from idle. it should also be open and letting air in at idle too, provided it aint a twin piston jobbie. check to see the dump valve aint knocking on anything. also check to see that the t piece aint knockin on the rocker cover. also the exhaust can knock on things too. basically i suspect it aint pinking- more like knocking. but just check yer ecu....suck the pipe to the UFO shaped unit on it...it should not let u suck too much esle the diaphragm inside is broken. also check pipes to ecu ufo unit, as if they are split or leaking, u get full advance on the ecu....not good. also check dump valve diaphragm....also can leak and cause full advance. then start lookin at yer carb,as maybe some of the enrichment jets could be blocked, causing lean running at high revs, or on boost....it can happen, although extremely rare! |
| ID: 3824 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Petrol Leak! Question: Hey wiz, Need some help. Got petrol leaking some where from the tank. From closer inspection it would appear that the petrol in running down the off side of the tank and dripping from the bottom! What do you reckon? Cheers wiz, Nick. Answer: you have split the tank....there is a yellow 'bung' that is actually the interior moulding of the tank. if u fill up over £20, then u get it leakin out. either change the tank, or...patch it with filler...sometimes works. or use a wine/beer making bung, with a coach bolt/washer/nut arangement shoved into it.....so when u tighten the nut, the bung is squahed, and fills the hole completely. there are several mentions of this on the boards. its Harpos idea... |
| ID: 3825 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuelling Question: ive done mostly everything i can think of possible apart from fueliing side just wondering wot carb to put on and fuel pump etc to get good boost but reliable 1st question so go easy lol Answer: ok, craig.....nice to see ya at da petrol station on sunday  Pget an uprated fuel pump, usually an 3 bar pump off a injection car will do. eg. E30 bmw, BX 16v, etc etc. (or even from a tuner or car parts place in north brum) then tell me what boost u wanna run, and what turbo u got, then ill think up summat todo to yer carb. |
| ID: 3826 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water injection Question: ive been reading about and keep seeing water injection sounds very intresting and im very intreged just wondering wot the hell it is and were to get them from how much and that sure this aint much off a question 4 ur knowledge but you have to get the easier 1s now and again Answer: im good... http://www.aquamist.co.uk |