| ID: 3763 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 25 psi + Question: what do i need too do to my engine to run 25psi...thanks Answer: its a steady procces getting the boost to 25psi first your engine needs to be strong enough to take it then its all about set up propper fuelling . charge temp water injection etc |
| ID: 3764 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Adjusting Actuator Question: Hi, I have a T3/T25 hybrid and am using the supplied actuator. I wanted to shorten the arm to increase boost but it appears impossible, as the arm will not pull out any further to reseat back onto the wastegate arm once I have shortened it. Should I be able to extract more length from within the actuator body so that a can refit the arm to the wastegate? Answer: . you might have reached the limmit of the accuator . if it wont pull out any more . look at engine tunning and set up to get more bhp ...../ |
| ID: 3765 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cant turn boost up Question: alright got a small prob,the car wont boost above 10psi even if i unscrew the incar adjustable fully out im sure its plumed in right,the hose that goes to the actuator goes to the carb top aswell and the incar adjustable boost pipe connects in the middle does this sound right.even if i take the knob out of the incar boost it will still hit 10psi and i can feel the boost pressure coming out of the incar adjuster thanks Answer: shortan the acctuator arm to increase min boost that should sort out your lack of boost |
| ID: 3766 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Battery Question: What size battery should the Turbo have?? Answer: whatever size u can fit into the tiny space that renault provided!!! usually a 45A jobbie..... |
| ID: 3767 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starting Question: i have a group A DD carb and seem to have trouble getting my car to start due to overfuelling just wondering if you have any ideas how to sort it out Answer: dont think its over fueling to start from cold could be sommthing else thats causing it not to start |
| ID: 3768 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stupid question Question: this is gonna sound really dum but can u tell me what model my car is ? its an E reg car also what fuel should i b running it on ! thanx for ur patience Answer: errrrrrrrrr  dam this is a hard one i know .... got it .... you need to run it on supper unleadded or LRP lrp would be better |
| ID: 3769 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: getin hot Question: Hi, when i bought my 5 the temp would exceed 3/4 when on the motorway,wiv the fan on constantly.soon after i had a new rad fitted,the temp sits perfectly but only wiv the fan on constant.without the fan on it will gradually reach the top of the gauge,surely in this cold weather i shouldnt need it on all the time.ive been told my headgasket could be on its wayout but im hoping its not that, could it be the thermostat or something else?also fitted new water pipes and bled the system.what do u reckon? cheers Answer: it could be the thermostat aint opening properly, or u have a kinked rad pipe...usually the bottom one! failing that it is gonna be the head gasket! |
| ID: 3771 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: little spark Question: hi wiz changed sensor an iv got a tiny spark at plugs now an she wont fire.suspect coil on seconhand ecu?would uprated plugs be better option? Answer: no, just get a new coil pack. tuners may be able to help with these. uprated plugs dont increase the spark...a new coil will though! |
| ID: 3772 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Head Gasket??? Question: Hi there, Does mayo altomaticley mean head gasket failure?? My 5, is still on it's original gasket from 1991 it's never been run above standard boost and never goes above the 1/3 mark on the temp gague (copper rad). So I was suprsed when I found a bit of mayonaise stuff around the neck of the oil filler and around the neck of the expansion tank. It runs fine??? any suggestions. Thanks Answer: it can mean condensation in the engine, if its in the rocker cap alone..... let me ask u a question.... how would oil get into the water system? answers: 1) radiator is split internally 2) turbo is split intenally 3) head is split internally 4) the headgasket has gone id say its gonna be the headgasket, purely cos they do after years of wear and tear. |
| ID: 3773 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Top Hose Question: Just noticed this today (don't think it was always like this) When the cars cold. The top hose - half way between the rad and water pump is partly colapsed (50% ish) As soon as it warms up - the hose returns to normal? No overheating or other probs with the cooling system ! - time for a new top hose?? Tom Answer: check your thermostat. some have a small hole in which stops this happening. |
| ID: 3774 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb Question: hi wizz Do you use sealant on carb, when doing overhaul. cheers. Answer: no sealant, gaskets only! |
| ID: 3775 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Loosing Coolant :( Question: Alright Wizza I have recently replaced some of my coolant hoses with SFS silicone ones. (w/p to turbo, degassing to expansion tank and w/p to expansion tank. I bled the system nicely and took it for a spin and all seemed fine.... I drove the car upto Norwich (approx 150 miles) and it was fine all the way. Then the next day I did a trip to my local tesco's (approx 4miles round trip) and when I got back I noticed the temp was slightly higher than usual. The needle was half way between second and third line. I let the car idle with the fan on for a bit when I got back to see if the temp would go back down and it didn't. I checked the coolant and it was a little lower than usual but not completely empty. This morning i fitted a new oil seperation tank as the old one had split, topped up the oil cos that was a little low and checked the coolant. It was empty! I filled it up again and bled the system. I have noticed a build up of mayo in the expansion tank recently (around the sides and in the actual coolant) Please help cos i'm out of ideas, I checked the carpet in the car to see if it was wet (leaking matrix) but it seemed dry. I can't see any leaking hoses. What is going on?? Thanks J Answer: perhaps u have blown yer headgasket slightly. failing that check the hose from the manifold to the waterpump as this likes to split sneakily!!!- at the water pump end! mayonnaise in the water is v.bad!!! always check the hoses when the car is running, after a long run, so the system is pressursed... also check to see if the turbo water banjo's are tightly attached!- they can leak from there too! |
| ID: 3776 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: steering rack Question: hi, just wondered if u could tell me wot kind of job it is to do the steering rack with engine in and how long of job it is, any tips would be much appreciated, cheers Answer: not to bad to do . to make it easier undo the rear 18mm suframe bolts lowering down the back of the subframe (suport it with a jack of course) |
| ID: 3777 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: strap & flow Question: HI, Ive strapped my intercooler but im not sure the best way 2 keep the flap up,ive been told i can break it off, or is that a bad idea.cheers wiz Answer: that is a bad idea, cos the boost will just go the shortest route and then not get cooled at all! push the flap up, get a drill with a small bit in it, and make a hole above the bit where the boost pipe attaches... so that the drill bit is right next to the flap! then screw in a self tapping screw that has ptfe tape or sealant on it! voila....job done!- flap shud be tightly pushed upwards! |
| ID: 3778 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wont start Question: Hi. Please can you help? I go to start my r5 but when i turn my ignition on no dash lights light up and and it wont start. The engine turns over but fails to start. The head lights and indicators ,radio,fan,horn, works but the windows,wipers,cig lighter dont work. cheers wizard. Answer: sounds like a dodgy connection, even better a dodgy immobiliser - everyones favourite feck up!!!! but then again....check ALL your fuses! then check to see that your petrol pump is actually working and that your timing sensor wire is OK, else u wont get any spark either :-) |
| ID: 3779 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil problem Question: i have got a lot of oil in my boost hoses and and intercooler, its in the inlet elbow, breather hoses. also my oil pressure gauge is always reading 6 unless the engine is off it reads 4, but the level on the dip stick is low. IN ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT. THANX Answer: read my lips: your turbo is fubar'd, or your engine is worn. fecked turbo blows oil into the boost system... worn engine blows oil round the breather system, which leads to the turbo inlet, which then pushes oil throught the boost system. check the turbo for excessive play in the shaft.... |
| ID: 3780 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: acterventer arm Question: dear wizard what lenth do the acterventer arm need to be to get it runing at 16.psi. do u think its a good idea as my car is still standerd thanks wizard Answer: 14psi is ok on a standard carb. this is approximately in the middle- end of the htached area on the standard turbo boost display. there is no set length for the arm, just twiddle it till u get the reading u want. |
| ID: 3781 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wastgate Question: how do i get the waste gate noise? i'm sick of dump valve noises. Answer: take the dump valve off, and block the vacuum feed to it, and the hole left in the boost pipe. then it should make a chattering sound. |
| ID: 3782 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: inlet Question: how many nuts hold the inlet manifold to the cylinderhead..because i cant seem to get it off... Answer: 6 nuts, 4 visible from the top, 2 are from underneath. hope this helps :-) |
| ID: 3783 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine went Bang? Question: OK, I really need your help! I took my 5 out on a 2hr journey, ran fine for majority of, temp stayed around the half way mark all the way! about 2 miles from home the enine starting iding really low and & cutting out @ junctions! Following day again, idle was low. I took it for a 2 minute drive around the block and the engine hit the top of the temp gauge?!?! concerned i popped the bonnet checked the water & oil... both! I checked all the pipes to & from the rad and came across the main 1 that runs across the front... it had disconnected! reconnected it! another drive, temp stayed down for about 5mins! temp gauge hit the top again this time with a bit more of a problem... i could smell oil burning somewhere & it was chuffing our some nice blue smoke. A rattle from the engine started which i believe was the rad pipe coming disconnected again, as when looking it was again just hanging. doing 30mph i started to lose power & dropped to 3rd gear... power just went... biggest EVER puff of blue smoke from the exhaust and steam & smoke from the engine. hmm... dead car! The AA bloke was useless & gave 1 indication that it had thru a conrod thru the sump and now the car had NO oil1 Checked the oil.. still full? the car tries to turn over when u turn the ignition but gives up! Dont wanna spend loads to get some one to strip it down if its not repairable? wot do u reckon? Answer: take the head off, and check your headgasket. could be a catastophic failure of the gasket.....oil and water leak out the back of the head/block interface, onto exhaust.... if this looks ok, then take the sump off and check your main and big end bearings... not too big a job to check!!!!:-) besides that i dunno what to suggest!!! |
| ID: 3784 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: accelerater cable Question: ive put a group A carb on and the accelerater cable seems to be too long the pedle is half way to the floor ive put the cable through the bracket with the 10mm nut and the spring seems to only bring the pedle half way back from the floor.why????? Answer: if u have a new cable......does it have a plastic outer sheath? if so, the clamp has squashed it onto the inner cable! hence not returning!...to remedy this, get some sandpaper, double it up , wrap around the sheath, and then clamp that, lightly! this stops the cable moving and also allows the inner cable to move! |
| ID: 3785 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo Question: i know u get this all the time. currently im running 15psi i have group A carb,twin core alloy intercooler,uprated fuel pump,samco,dv,ect what bhp would u say that is and what is the max boost i could run. and im after buying an uprated clutch and turbo which clutch and turbo would u say to get for 200bh+++ have a bit of money to spend! Answer: yeah 200bhp should be achievable. im assuming u have a standard turbo at the moment?- id really not run over 18psi, as this will seriously reduce the life of the standard t2! |
| ID: 3786 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: carb hoses Question: hi wizz My dump valve is not working when i rev my engine, I feel i have put the carb hoses on wrong. All the pics of the carb i have found dont show the back of the carb and what pipe goes thier.(I have a gtt spider valve on my car.) Thanks. Answer: u must connect the d/v to the same hose that connects to the ecu pipe, which also connects to the very small hosetail that comes out the back of the manifold, just under where the carb fits! without this connection you'll have no vac, and alot of advance on the ignition! |
| ID: 3787 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel Pump Question: there seems to be an intermitten fault with the wiring to my fuel pump. i have changed the connections near the pump itself and still have the prob. do u know where the wiring runs to so i can rewire it, as it disapears under the car so i can't trace the route to find the other end. Cheers Wizard Answer: have u checked the fuel pump relay..... top right hand corner of the relay bank....which sits to the right of the fuse box. this is the more likely reason for intermittency! |
| ID: 3789 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sppedo cable Question: please help wiz ive taken my old speedo cable out diff side and tried putting the new one in and it wont go in the hole ive checked the size and it is exactly the same size as the old one i would apreciate your advice cheers Answer: make sure that u have the little 'lug' correctly lined up, with the matching slot in the gearbox casing..... other than that there is no reason why it shouldnt fit.... |
| ID: 3790 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Offset Question: Just been given a set of 16's from a new astra sxi , to sell for a m8 but will these wheels fit my 5 , the studs line up i know the offset is wrong but can spacers be used cheers Answer: if you use spacers make sure the wheel bolts are long enough |
| ID: 3791 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stalling at idle Question: My car will not run at all whilst idling. I have to hold the accelarator pedal to run approx 1200 revs until engine warms up which takes about five-8 mins. What could this be? Off to John Noble next month so hopefully he can sort it out  Answer: sounds like u may need more or less fuel at idle. try turning the mixture screw out a couple of turns, and then screwing the idle speed screw in a bit- ie to raise the idle. |
| ID: 3792 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: white smoke Question: Hi, My 5 seems to emmit white/light blue smoke when coming to a stand still, ie stopping at a junction...It is definatley oil as i can smell it. this dont happen all of the time and there is no pattern to it? I have looked at the other posts b4 bothering you and have checked the pipes to the intercooler, they seem fine all but a little oil misting?!?!? Help!! Answer: you are either looking at rings or turbo. i reckon turbo is sightly dodgy..... might sound silly, have u tried putting slightly thicker oil in? - doesn't usually make a difference, but u never know.... |
| ID: 3793 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: electric wondows Question: Hi, thanks for your advice on my turbo/smoke concern! I now have another 2 for ya! The electric window motors are inop, there is feed from the switches and continuity back from the connectors/motor. I simply thought it was the motors, so i picked two working motors up. fitted them, they worked for about 1cm of lift and died. do you think its just bad luck with second hand motors of could there be a problem elsewhere? My second question is..i have just had my 5 back from the boy shop after 3 months! and they didnt return it with the boot trim and fixings, the problem now is the car is quite vunerable as anyone could press the release and get in to the car. Can i fabricate a internal boot release and blank the lock off? is it a mission? (I have another boot trim on at the moment but no lock/barrel) Cheers again! Answer: have you checked the earths and connection blocks that go to the door electrics? they are hidden behind two panels near your feet. it sounds more like an earthing/ feed issue, especially if both are fubar'd! od try and sort that out first. i think any old 5 boot trim will do. you can get a new boot lock from gsf.... u could blank it off , but it would be a mission! |
| ID: 3794 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: torsion bars Question: wiz, do u have any idea on how to lower the rear torsion bars and how far you have to move them for a 30mm drop.cheers mat Answer: 30mm drop is one spline.... check this: http://www.rtoc.org/articles/article.asp?ArticleID=15 |