| ID: 3637 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: viper air filter Question: fitting a viper air kit ,will a gain much bhp on my 5 turbo running 17psi with a lot of engine mods and will i have to have the cat tuned again? Answer: depends what filter u are running at the moment. i can't imagine that the viper will improve drastically on a pipercross or k&n properly supplied with cold air. if u are already running a filter, then id say that the carb will not need adjustment. |
| ID: 3638 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: my little red car with crappy elecs Question: please wiz help... my interor light dont work or my central locking or that thing that locks the door (that button) my clock lights up but cant actually get any didgits and now when i put my ignition on my left hand (Passenger side) front light and back light come on PLEASE HELP! THANKS Answer: without sounding cr@p... try cleaning your earths!!! it sounds like u may have serious corrosion on certain key earth points or even in multiplugs. |
| ID: 3639 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bottom end Question: Hi ya wiz, Im going to get my engine built from the bottom end up, the engine is going to have the best gear on it, but when i went to a place that builds motors they said that a knife edge crank was a wast of time if the car was for the road, wot do you think. if you want anything ceramic coated then speak to the guys at indestuctable paint on 0121 702 2485 they will coat any part of your engine, ther doing my pistons for £32 per piston Answer: well, this is true, up to a point, but also there is a thought that as the engine has no way of lubricating the cylinder bores, except for the 'flick' of oil that the crank splashes up from the oil in the sump.... if ya knife edge the crank, it cuts thru the oil more cleanly, and doesnt flick as much oil up the cylinder bores....which is VERY bad. ask the engine builder about this :-) |
| ID: 3640 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: earthin points Question: wear would be the first place to start with main eaths thanks u know ur stuff Answer: check yer haynes, but the main earths for the rear lights are behind the units themselves!!! the main battery negative attaches to the bodywork, right next to the battery. i think there is also an earth visible on the steering column mount or somewhere like that. just search, and thou shalt find! |
| ID: 3641 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TWO GEAR BOXES IN TWO MONTHS Question: ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGO I BLOW MY ENGINE UP AND SO I BOUGHT A RENAULT 11 TURBO ENGINE WITH A R5GTT GEARBOX ON ABOUT TWO MONTHS LTAER THE DIFF SIZED SO WE PUT IT DOWN TO IT BEING SAT IN A GARAGE BEFORE I BOUGHT IT. BUT I PUT ANOTHER R5GTT GEARBOX ON AND THAT ONE HAS JUST DONE THE SAME. IS THAT THE TWO AREN'T COMPATABLE OR AM I HAVING SOME SERIOUS BAD LUCK? Answer: the two are compatible, but there are a few options here: 1) you really are having bad luck and both were duff. 2) you forgot to fill the gearbox up with oil. twice. |
| ID: 3642 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost Question: im runnin 15psi boost at the moment on a standard engine with uprated gasket wot wud you say i could go to max safely as a few cars round my way r starting to whip me cheerz for your help Answer: 15psi is max on a standard carb. sort the jets out and you can go further, but dont expect the turbo to last though.... stick a 130main in and swap the 1st stage enricher and the air corrector over....so the AC becomes a 100 and the 1st stage a 125.... then turn up to 20psi. |
| ID: 3643 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Question: I have lost about 3 psi of boost according to my gauge, any ideas? Answer: split dump valve diaphragm. or hole in vac pipe/ boost pipe...or hole in intercooler, or yer turbo is about to spit its guts out. |
| ID: 3644 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Car Won Question: this is what has happened. I gave it a wash in the drive, then put it back in the garage. Next morning gets in tried to start it and it turned the engine over, but doesn't seem to be firing up. Turned the key again and nothing happened at all, tried a few more times and it was hit and miss, sometimes the engine turned over but didn't fire, then I would get a click prolly the starter soleniod that was clicking. Checked each plug and there is a spark to each, took off the carb elbow and fuel is coming through, took out idle jet , that was clean. Disconnected the multiplug behind near side headlight, cleaned it WD40, clipped it back together and wrapped it in cling film and tied it off with cable ties. Any suggestions as to why the booger won't fire up? Help would be appreciated, Answer: ok, think carefully about what you done. u washed the car, then it not start. so when u wash the car where does water drain away?- down the scuttle tray.... where does the ecu sit?- in the scuttle tray. so take the ecu out, clean all the connectors, and make sure they actually touch! then check the feckin timing sensor wire! make sure there is +ve and -ve to the ecu!!! |
| ID: 3645 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: problem Question: hi wiz,please have a look at the following graph to see if you can understand from it what is wront- http:// www.rtoc.org/library/file.asp?id=8543 I checked my fuel reg acc pump fuel lines and carb but it may be timing r sumthing. thanks Answer: it could be timing, but i reckon its gonna be fuelling.id take yer carb apart, and check that your 2nd stage enricher aint blocked...i.e the brass bush!!! i think this is where approximately its supposed to supply extra fuel to the emulsion tube. also check to see if you have the correct springs in the whole enricher circuit! and that you've fitted the gaskets the correct way round. you have blocked off the breather pipe that goes no-where have u? u must leave it open to air!!! |
| ID: 3646 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bad Running Question: Dear Wiz, Standard R5GTT Raider started to run badly, sometimes dropping to running on 3 only. Have changed plugs, HT leads, checked for leaks etc. From reading previous Q&As, suspect it may be timing sensor. Where is it? How to test it without a meter? And how much and where for a replacement? I live in Birmingham, not far from Fletchers of GSF. Thanks and happy new year! Answer: i think the test is in the haynes manual, it sits on top of the gearbox....but...a new one is about £15-£20 off the top of my head. i know erdington/castle bromwich gsf have it in stock...i can't imagine how i know this.... happy new yr to u too. |
| ID: 3647 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: spark plugs Question: just fitting spark plugs ,are champion n3g are these suitable for my 5 turbo? Answer: what does it say in haynes manual? or even the manufacturers recommendations....they are usually there for a reason.... i do believe haynes says N3G or N6YCC for turbo cars... so you are ok then :-) |
| ID: 3648 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: problem 2 -ref 3645 Question: i checked the brass bush etc. and there is no blockages,the spring is fine and all on enrichment side. For info i retarded the timing last nite to c if that would help and it made it worse,so it could be overfueling? Answer: perhaps, yes, have u tried another carb? overfuelling , should of been spotted at the rolling road??? but yes....this can cause power loss.... |
| ID: 3649 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: which parts :) Question: hi wiz ok, i have a few questions for ya.. firstly.. i have a piper 265 cam and was thinking of changing it to the 285 cam but do you think there will really be much difference for how much its gonna cost me? 2nd ... does the side exit exhaust really make the ol turbo spool up quicker??? 3rd... what else would be good for a power gain??? apart from tubular manifold as i have peeps on the case for this  4th.. how do i find my way to broadstreet???? lol thanks buddy makaveli Answer: yeah the 285 will be a good improvement over the 265....especially if used in conjunction with the side exit and larger turbo.... the side exit reduces back pressure, so in theory you'll be loosing low down torque and increasing top end power... more power?- head work.....big turbo.... grp A carb...full injection and ignition system...the list is really endless, and can go up in price exponentially! broad st....just follow the yellow brick road..*lol* |
| ID: 3650 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: website Question: nothing to do with my car but can u help anyway ? ive got a new message in my inbox but when i click on messages nothing happens please help wiz !!!!!!! Answer: set ur security settings on the internet explorer to low. or disable the anti pop up software u have. |
| ID: 3651 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: various Question: Hi wiz. got a few questions. I changed my plugs the other day cos car wasn't starting - they were black! does this mean its overfueling cos it stinks of petrol in the car with the heating on aswel, and is my car loosing power if it is over fueling? how much by? What cam would do u think is BEST for my car? I have ktr 350 (t28/t3) rollerbearing turbo with standard cam  would you say that with a lightened/balanced flywheel and crank would increase power?? what kind of power increase will i get with YOUR suggested cam and other mods mentioned??? Thanks dude! Merry christmas :- ) Answer: ok, first things first, yes yer car will be losing power cos of overfuelling.- but it may need the extra fuel to cool the inlet charge, depends what boost you run. as for the cam, depends what you wanna do with the car. if u wanna car that has awesome top end but nothing down the bottom of the rev range, then go for the lairest cam possible. if u want summat you can drive every day, then go for the 285 or 270 (piper). a lightened flywheel is a good bet, as is balanced crank....but if u can't be bothered, just get the flywheel lightened on its own. the crank helps revability.... with a 285 cam , and the turbo u have, id reckon you'd be looking at 220bhp+ at 22psi. this is assuming you have adequate fuelling to cope :-) happy new year my friend ;-) |
| ID: 3652 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wierd steering Question: Hi wiz, got another question for ya! I got avo coilovers (car is very low). I know about camber and stuff, and my mates cars is as low as mine but hasn't got the same probs. here we go.. Do u think faulty shocks can give me wierd steering. Basically my steering feels lighter than i think it should (compared to my friends 5), and it moves all over the place on uneven surfaces, which can get dangerous when im going fast. ive changed steering rack,uj,ball joints every thing else is ok.. : ( please help Answer: you have a phase 1 car??....your friend i reckon has a phase 2. Renault changed the shock setup between the two phases.... so, it maybe worth while getting ph2 struts and ph2 top mounts. i bet this sorts yer problem. |
| ID: 3653 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No boost in 1st Question: Hi there, A slight problem has occured after I've fitted a new actuator to my 5. I don't have any boost in 1st till 4k but then in the remaining 4 gears the turbo is spinning up nice and early. Any ideas as to whats going on here as races are not very interesting??? Answer: sounds like u have either a boost leak- unlikely else you'd experience boost loss in all gears, or more likely a manifold leak, as in first gear not much exhaust gas is produced cos there aint much load on the engine. check your manifold from cold! |
| ID: 3654 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GEARBOX AGAIN!!!! Question: Hi mate. Just a quick one. I have owned my 5 for nearly a year and it has had 4 gearbox's. It's a nightmare!! I have bought 2nd hand ones in the past as people tell me that the box's are bullet proof!!! Cleary not!!! Anyway not to moan to much but where do you think the best place is to get a re-con box from? I live in London area. Cheers Answer: check your yellow pages. also, there are a few reasons why yer box keeps breaking.....are you running 15"" wheels or larger? this puts more strain on the gearbox components...... maybe why reno designed it for 13"" wheels eh? ;-) |
| ID: 3655 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Chuffing & Black Smoke at 3000rpm Question: Hi, Got a problem which seems to be getting worse. Happens completely randomly - get to about 3000rpm and when I press the accellerator it chugs, the revs can never get higher it chugs and sounds like its misfiring quietly. Happens in all gears and gradually gets worse until it stalls. Black smoke chuffing from exhaust and its like the fuel is getting blocked. If you leave the car for a min and keep revving it seems to unblock then its fine. Getting very dangerous having to stop every 10 mins - Please help!! Could it possibly be the float in the fuel tank getting lodged? Or could it be spark plugs? Answer: could be that you have the fuel line right next to the manifold!!!- and that the carb is experiencing fuel vapour probs. but this may not explain the black smoke. your choke flap aint closing of its own accord is it? - i.e its securely fixed? failing that you may have to try someone elses carb, to see if your needs cleaning- or even a new diaphragm kit fitting! also check to see that you aint got too much gap on your sparkplugs. Maybe even that u got damp in your dizzy cap, or u just need a new one! or perhaps yer leads have broken down, or yer timing sensor is getting fried by the heat off the manifold. hope some of these ideas help! |
| ID: 3656 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wet Feet & rear window Question: Another little annoying problem. When it rains and i get in the car water is getting through from under the bonnet and dripping on my feet. not very nice when wearing opened toed shoes. Can this cause any serious electrical damage and where is it coming from? Also one of my back windows will not shut. Any bump will force it open and it wont grip onto the clip. Perfect opportunity from a thief to get in. Can you get new window clips or shall i just tie wrap it shut? Answer: try getting clips from a breaker. in the mean time cable tie it! the water is coming in from either the gap in the windscreen rubber, in the middle. or if u aint got the plastic cover over the heater fan in the scuttle tray it also drips thru there!!! or...if u got an aftermarket hole (for bleed valves and stuff) drilled in the space next to the driver in the scuttle tray then water can drip thru there too!!! |
| ID: 3660 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: new block Question: Hi wiz i was thinking of taking my block to a machine shop and getting them to make me a new one out of aluminium and then get it ceramic coated, wot do you think Answer: yeah, yeah, sounds like a good idea, except....it'd cost a fortune, and the aluminium has different rates of expansion than the cast or steel liners you would use..... this may cause undue strain on the liner seals!- causing them to fail very quickly. you would also have to use that special red VW antifreeze to counteract any corrosion internally that the block may experience.... honesly mate....just get a cast block and clean it!- it'd be far easier! |
| ID: 3661 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo Question: mr wizzard ive been playin with my 5 turbo a bit it got the cup mod, strapped and flowed intercooler, grp a carb, uprated head gasket and bolts and a stage 1 turbo, ive just set the boost a bit higher 17psi adjustable to 20 psi but when drivin in the new low boost setting there isnt as much as a punch as there was when it used to be at 15psi but the car is definatly alot quicker, im runing super unleaded and an octane booster if this helps at all. thanks very much in advance and happy new year Answer: its the way u've got the cup mod set up. its opening the wastgate gradually, instead of keeping it shut until one particular point then opening it. try sticking the feed for the actuator, on the other carb top port....i.e the one with the restrictor in...this should make a big difference...also block off the feed that goes to the middle of the carb on the passenger side....you'll just be leaking boost around the carb..... every little bit helps! it also could mean that yer turbo is on its way out...*lol* |
| ID: 3662 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: offset Question: what is the 35mm offset for the wheels? is the offset on the wheels or the car? Answer: the 35mm is the offset the wheels need to be, so that they fit on the hub correctly, without touching anything on the car they shouldn't :-) |
| ID: 3663 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rebuild Question: hi wiz, im removing my engine to change the shell bearings, get the crank reground,may also change oil rings etc?? im putting in a piper 285 cam hopefully during this and also a turbo clutch. This all has to be done within the 1 week. What im wondering is should i also change to the turbo oil pump as my gtl one may not be as uprated? and also is this cam a good choice for non lumpy idle/running and performance increase.Thanks alot Answer: the cam is a good choice....its tappety but not too lumpy at idle! i'd change the gtl one for a new one, or shim the pressure relief valve, so its increases the pressure output of it :-) |
| ID: 3664 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bent turbo Question: Happy new year, Do you have any idea how the shaft in the center of the turbo could bend/ get bent? thanx Answer: if i got a large stick and poked it into the turbine blades, then this may bend it. just as running with no air filter on, and sucking a stone in or summat. maybe the shaft bending fairy, decided to fly down, and bend yer shaft in the middle of the night..... |
| ID: 3665 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ref 3663 - rebuild Question: you mentioned changing the oil pump for a new one(i expect u mean a new turbo one)but also mentioned shiming the original one for more output.Can you give me instuctions on how to do this.Whilst the engine is out im going to change the clutch,cam shell bearsing and oil rings etc.anything else you suggest testing/changing whilst it is out? Thanks alot o busy one! Answer: change the liners and pistons as well? ok as far as shimming the oil pump goes, there should be a tube with a bar across it somewhere on the pump...usually a cotterpin or split pin or whatever u wanna call it. you need to remove this pin, and slip a couple of washers beneath it and then replace the pin. this has the effect of increasing the strength of the spring in the oil pump, and hence increasing the pressure of the oil being pumped. |
| ID: 3666 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No boost in 1st pt 2 Question: Hi there, Checked the manifold and it doesn't seem to be leaking. I wound in the nut on the actuator a bit and when I took it for a spin boost was back nice and early...however the downside to this is I feel there is too much boost for the engine. On the standard guage its going over to about 2/3 of the shaded area. Do you reckon my engine could cope with this amount of power?? And what do you reckon to the fault lying in the actuator...if so what do you reckon is wrong with it??? Cheers for all your help. Answer: the actuator diaphragm could be getting weak, or you may have a crack in yer exhaust housing next to the wastegate.... 2/3 into the shaded are will be ok for the car. its best if u get a proper boost gauge to really see whats goin on though! |
| ID: 3667 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: arial Question: Hi wizz, i recently had my car resprayed but before it was sprayed my arial snapped off (underneath the bit that unscrews) and now i am left with just that rectangle rubber bit. How can i put another arial on or what should i do to remove that plastic bit? I don't want to end up scratching the car trying to get the thing off. Answer: unclip the interior light unit, take the bulbs out, and unscrew the remaining unit....et voila u can see the back of the aerial.....unbolt it, and add a new one! |
| ID: 3668 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pipes Question: hi wizard on my lobster top where the two pipes come out they are joined together into each other ,butthe pipe going to the actuater goes to a silver bloch with a screw in it,then one goes to the passenger side of the carb and the other one of the silver block goes no where and is not connected ?where can that one go as it smells of fuel,or can i connect it to the loberster pot? ?cheers Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/library/default.asp?id=354 hope this helps! |
| ID: 3669 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking then not? Question: dear wizard me again, im running a t25 turbo with t3 actuator, stage 3 head with muti-angle valves,gas-flowed manifolds, uprated head gasket and head bolts, brand new pitstons and liners, grp a carb, stage 1 cam, ind kit and full stainless exhaust, i split a liner a coupe of weeks back so am currently running the car in and checked everything when i rebuilt the engine ( i.e. turbo back and forward play and tryd to blow through to check the oil seals which i could'nt, had the head checkd no cracks ect. cleaned all the breather system) and ive only done 250 mile takin it slowly to bout 3 1/2 grand but every now and then it pours white smoke out of the exhaust and smells of oil but the stops like the other day when out for the day and did bout 100 miles no smoke wat so ever but next day popped into to waited for some one for 5 mins on lick over and there was the smoke again pouring out till i did about a mile then it cleared and its fine again, i really dont understand it its not as ifs when its cold for it to be the stem seals i dont think. any ideas? if more info needed just ask. thanks! Answer: id still say its your turbo. sooooooooooo many turbos get fecked after a rebuild, its untrue! including mine!!! :-( basically there are bits of metal that drop off bearing and inside of liners etc etc as they wear in...this then goes straight to the turbo and fecks it. try a good standard unit...borrow it if u have to, i bet it stops!!! |