| ID: 3438 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Where is the engine number?????? Question: Wiz, where EXACTLY (this isnt a trick question) is the engine number on a phase 2 5 gtt? Answer: it should be on the front of the block just above the oil filter. on the surface that faces slightly upwards..... |
| ID: 3439 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke and water!!!!!!!!! Question: Hi Theres white smoke with a blemish of blue whilst engine is ticking over. when you rev the engine and then decelerate, water sprays out of the exhaust with alot of smoke appearing. Ive never had such a problem with the other R5. ive had it runing for about 1 hour at one stage letting it tick over. ive got a bore exhaust on and ive just recently reconditioned the engine. i fitted a group A headgasket when i did the rebuild along with all other gaskets. Do you have any ideas of what it is Matt Answer: either you've got alot of condensation in yer exhuast or yer turbo is fecked.... do a compression check to see if the cyinders are ok though. -just as a matter of precaution. |
| ID: 3440 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ecotec valve Question: is it possible to connect a ecotec valve to the reno? i've looked on the website but no help. thanks Answer: yes it is possible....although i know that Ian S has had some degree of success with this product.- probably best to ask him! |
| ID: 3441 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air and fuel ratio gauge Question: Hi Wiz, can you tell me if you know anyone who sells air and fuel ratio gauges to fit in a 52mm pod? I know you can get them for engine management systems which take the reading off the lambda sensor, but never seen them for the R5. Cheers mate. Daz Answer: The GT Turbo doesn't have a lambda sensor, as it doesn't have fuel injection or even a ECU as such. And it was designed for leaded fuel too, which would kill a lambda sensor. Most modern cars have narrowband sensors which only indicate 'too rich' or 'too lean' about their stoichometric point (14.7:1). These sensors are of no use on a GTT, as it'd just swing the gauge from full lean to full rich, with nothing useful in between. Also stoich point for a turbocharged, carburettored engine is nearer 12:1 ... You can get wideband sensors, but they cost several hundred pounds - which for the information you get just isn't worth it. If you're worried about the mixture when the car's under load, book it in at a rolling road, and they'll use their gas analyser (far more accurate than a lambda sensor). Wiz. |
| ID: 3442 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starter motor Question: hello wizz i went to your work today to get my new starter motor for my car.....they told me you had the day off so some one else helped me (part timer).......this guy told me one of the reasons why my starter motor is sticking is because my anti perc fan is not working right..............is this true or is this guy a mickey mouse? fancy fitting my new stater motor.....lol Answer: Not very likely. The anti-perc fan cools the carburettor, and blows any fuel/air out of the boost hoses. It does not cool the starter motor. If you have the heatshield in place above the starter motor, that's usually sufficient to protect it from most heat. However with time the starter motor can suffer from the effects of heat. What happens is the grease in the solenoid tends to melt and run out, so it sticks. Best course of action would be to replace the starter motor - or dismantle, clean and regrease your existing one. Do it yourself  Wiz. |
| ID: 3443 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Changing radiator Question: Wiz, How much oil does the radiator hold? And am I gonna lose much out of the two pipes when i disconnect them?? Would I be aswell doing an oil change while im replacing the rad? Ive also got an oil pressure switch to replace, can i get at it from above with the bonnet and rad off? Cheers dude!  Answer: With the engine cold, there's very little oil in the oil cooler part of the radiator. Most will have drained back to the sump. You will find about half a litre or so might come out as a maximum when you start tipping it about after undoing the pipes. If you block the end of the pipes as you undo them (an old rubber glove and elastic band works well), you won't make a mess from them. With the radiator out, if you remove the bumper and grille, you'll find you can get to the oil pressure switch with ease through where the radiator was. Wiz. |
| ID: 3444 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breather system Question: Hi,Performance problem is still there, seems sluggish on pulling on boost. Is it ok to disconnect the breather hose at back of manifold and block the hose and hole at manifold, reason im doing this is because the threads have rung on the inlet manifold wer the 1way valve connects and there is a leak which i think is causing the performance problem. After doing this will the small breather filter and all work ok on the crankcase breather system. I heard disconnecting the breather system from manifold changes mixture, does it make it lean or richer. Thanks Answer: if you block the one way valve it makes the mixture richer at idle, cos you are leaking air into the manifold. on boost it doesn't matter. |
| ID: 3445 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: foot down not good Question: hi silly question to ask but why is it if i put my foot right down i dont get as good accelaration as if i find the right spot about 3 quaters of the way down cheers Answer: sounds like you have got a sticking accelerator pump on the drivers side of the carb. try taking it off and cleaning it with sandpaper. this usually means that it can move correctly |
| ID: 3446 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: good system Question: I want to get the KTR tubular Exhaust manifold as it looks good and has some good performance gains to, but i want the GT TUNING 2 1/2"" s/steel system to go with it, with both from diffrent tuners is it a good system to have Answer: i think the term size matters is quite important in this case, no matter where u get it from! they should be fine....especially as KTR and GT Tuning are kinda related... |
| ID: 3447 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: hi wiz i have always had good oil pressure then on a long drive back across europe the oil pressure started dropping when the turbo came under load now i have no oil pressure but if i take the ht lead off and turn the engine on the starter moter i get pressure, i hope you can help Answer: check your oil pressure sender wires....these are positioned on the front of the engine where all sorts of rubbish gets blown onto it. as the turbo comes on boost the engine tilts more due to the increased torque, and can cause wiring faults to show up. you could also try and aftermarket oil pressure gauge to confirm things are ok. |
| ID: 3448 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: car will not start Question: hello wizz..............i have just had my starter motor fitted into my car today.......it started fine, and i drove it to my cousins and it was ok.........but i went to the car at about midnight to go home and the car will not start.........i can hear the starter motor going but it will not ignite.......i even tried to push start it down a hill and it still would not catch.......i could tell the car wanted to go but i was like the car was out of fuel or some thing..........what could it be now??????????? Answer: Check you have a spark at each spark plug when cranking on the starter. If not, check the HT leads and that the ignition module has power. If you have a spark, listen for the fuel pump. If you don't hear it, check there's power to it. Could be fuel pump relay module, ignition module or TDC sensor if it hasn't got power. If the pump is running, and you have a spark, then check fuel is actually getting into the engine. Could be a blocked fuel filter. Wiz. |
| ID: 3449 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cool or Not Cool? Question: L.E.D Dust Caps what you think wiz? i think cool myself :P Answer: Not cool  Wiz. |
| ID: 3450 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wheel bolts? Question: My car apperas to have two different type wheel bolts fitted! Both have a tapered seat but some have a sleeve (slightly loose) fitted on the taper! Which one is the standard bolt? The wheels are non sandard 15"" I plan to go back to the org 13""s soon. Thanks Answer: The standard bolts have the cone shaped sleeve. It's there to prevent damage to the wheel when tightening, and help ensure the bolt doesn't stick to the wheel. However it's possible that these might have come off at some point in the past, if someone's taken the bolts out roughly. You might even find the sleeves are still in your 13"" wheels.... Wiz. |
| ID: 3451 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Leak! Question: Alright Wizard! Got an oil leak, reckon it is coming from the front of the block, where sump meets engine, only had the car a month, obviously I'm gonna get it fixed, but is this a major problem, what can it mean? Answer: Any loss of oil is bad, as you run the risk of not having enough lubrication and coolign in the engine. Not forgetting that leaving an oil slick on the road isn't good for other traffic either! If it's from the sump/block joint, it probably means someone's taken the sump off, and didn't seal it properly when putting it back on. Or there might be a small hole in the sump due to hitting an object in the road. Wiz. |
| ID: 3452 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: car will not start....the end Question: hello Wizz 'ard......lol....not well never mind.........irish john the spanna never attached the bloody over boost sensor and the two wires were touching thus causing the car not to start.........what a monkey eh? check ya L8RZ Answer: give him a slap from me. and ask him where my sodding sump is! ;-) |
| ID: 3453 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil temp Question: Hi Wiz. I need to fit an oil cooler and would like to know at what temperature the oil must be. Should I fit a stat? Pls remember that here in Portugal the normal temperatures at winter are near 10ºc (nice isn’t? ) Thanks for the help. Answer: coolent temp is around 80 to 88 deg C . so oil would be best at around this temp to as a balance of temp through out the engine would be good take temp readings of the oil and see wether its stayying to cool, if it is staying to cool then a stat would be a good idea |
| ID: 3454 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch cable Question: hi my clutch cable snapped this morning so i went to renault and they said there was 2 different sizes because there was a recall? he wanted to know if my clutch peddle was the newer model. how do i tell if i have the newer pedal? thanks ryan Answer: look up to the top of the clutch pedal...there is a toothed 1/2 disc at the top of it..i.e the ratchet. is this white or black? white means its the modified one. |
| ID: 3455 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: money Question: hello matey boy ive just come in to grand and don't no wot to spend the the money on either a turbo and alloy intercooler or a rebulid because the car has done 134789miles on standard turbo and engine and it just feels tired.wot do u reckon Answer: rebuild it mate...it'll luv u long time! |
| ID: 3456 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Why won Question: Hi there, My 5 has decided it won't start unaided. If I put jump leads on she'll start first time. But then after a while she just makes a loud clicking sound when trying to start.The battery is reading approx 12-13 volts when running and 10 volts when not. Do you reckon the problem is down to alternator or starter motor???? Cheers for all your help!!! Answer: the best charge from the alt is 14.2 volts but this can be afected bye other things like connections and battery condition if the battery is lossing it capacity you will not get the expected 14.2 volts if you think its the battery connect another battery using jump leads and see wot the alt is pushing out . if the charge voltage goes up with connecting another battery then it looks like you have a faulty battery on the car also cheack for any drain on the car batt should be no more than 0.3 amps |
| ID: 3457 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: money Question: can u recomend any1 remember ive only got a grand Answer: erm, id have a go yourself. i can't give any one particular company to do this, as i would appear to be biased....sorry fella! |
| ID: 3458 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no pressure Question: me again ive got no pressure in my brake pedal ive had them bled and it did the trick for a couple of weeks but i could feel them getting weaker day by day and know ive got f*** all when i push the pedal to ground they just lock up thanks mate Answer: id check for leaks in the pipes...they could be corroded and letting air into the system. failing that it could be a master cylinder problem.... |
| ID: 3459 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bloody Bolts Question: hello wizzzy yeah guess what broke again....yup the stupid bolt that holds on the rear shocks........its the bottom bolt that goes into the caliper part of the car...........last time it happened i had to get it drilled out, but i don't think he has done it right as it snapped again last night. I found it easy to get out the broken part as it was loose........what can i do to stop this happening again?..............do you know of any where you can get stronger bolts..........or if the threat is a bit loose how can i get it to stay in tighter? thanx dude Answer: goto your local fastening place...look in yellow pages for bolt and nut manufacturers.....they should be able to supply the correct size bolt, but in a stronger rating. i think the real problem here is that you have got it too low at the back, and you are jolting the bottom bolt everytime you go over a bump. you may have to make a rear bump stop or summat similar. |
| ID: 3460 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: alternator light!! Question: hi wizz,noticed every now and then my alt light flikers on on off(note is on clio gt turbo)but has not given me a flat battery etc.could be brushes sticking?or sumin?how could i sort this?cheers m8 Answer: check the brown plastic clip that plugs into the alternator. you can undo it and clean/squeeze the connectors back together. this should sort the problem out. |
| ID: 3461 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wheel fitment Question: hi wiz at present i am trying to sell a set of wheels from my gtt they are oz mito 15"" i have had enquiries from people with other models of car but am unsure as to what other car makes have the same fitment could you please advise as nobody wants to travel to see if they fit thanks in advance Answer: http://www.tyresave.co.uk/fitment.html aiiii, read it, copy it and sell those wheels :-) |
| ID: 3462 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: running probs Question: My cars has suddenly started misfiring and occasionally pops back through the inlet manifold. I've done compression test, cylinders 1,2 and 4 are at 150psi and number 3 is at 180psi. If i spray carb cleaner around the manifold the revs pick up. Thought it might be a simple air leak but the test results threw me, any ideas? Answer: is the 180psi when the car is hot or cold? as i think that is very high!- usually means that oil has seeped into the bore and is sealing the piston rings..... now, the only place that this can come from is either the sump or the head...via the rings or the valve. the rings i reckon could be ok, cos of the compression value, so i reckon it could be a valve stem seal is knackered and the valve aint sealing properly....this will cause the oil to gum up the sparkplug. (which i hope you've checked)as the oil burns off from the valve, then the misfire appears, as the combustion mixture pushes back up the inlet manifold. then again have u checked that the leads are in the correct order....you can swop two around sometimes and the car runs, but backfires up the carb. also check the timing of the cam and ignition system is spot on. i.e pistons 1 and 4 at top of stroke, as rotor arm points away from block and flywheel timing mark is at 0° on the gearbox inspection hole. let me know! ;-) |
| ID: 3463 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Sudden loss of everything! Question: Alright Wizard!? Got a sudden jerk when for example exiting a third gear corner, give it full throttle, and everything goes deae for a split second, no sound of the turbo or the engine! Any ideas? Answer: check to see if the accelerator pump on the carb is operating correctly. failing that check to see if the main live feed from the battery isn't arcing out on the starter/ exhaust downpipe. this also causes the car to cut out momentarily!!! |
| ID: 3464 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ECU Question: Wiz Got the 5 sorted (at last) it was the ECU ??? thanks again Adam Answer: no probs ! |
| ID: 3465 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starting Question: Dear Wizz I am having problems starting my car when it has been sitting for a couple of hours. When i start it first thing in the morning its fine starts first time. But when i have been driving it and let it sit for a couple of hours it will turn over but you need to turn it over twice before it will catch. Yet if i leave it sitting for 10 -20 mins again it starts first time. I have a slight fuelling problem because i am running a 135 Main jet could this be causing it to flood ?????/ Answer: it could be causing it to flood, but its most likely gonna be a hot starting problem. you may just have to grin and bare it! failing this see if yer antiperc fan is working!! |
| ID: 3466 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: still smoke!!!!! Question: hi wiz, I ve had the car running on and off since the last message i sent you, a couple of weeks ago i think. anyway ive got rid of the white smoke as you said a lot of condinsation from the rebuild i havejust done. Now the bad news i still have a little blue smoke when reved up. ive changed the piston rings, liner seals, liners and bearings when i did the rebuild. ive done a compression test and that seems fine. do you have any info or ideas of what it could be. matt Answer: yeah, check yer breather is ok, unblocked and has the correct restrictors in! do this test *for fun*....take the top off the oil seperator pot, whilst the car is running. then put yer finger over it for around 30secs.....now watch the smoke come billowing out of your exhaust!!!- ho ho ho! then take finger off and after 30secs it returns to normal...this is due to yer rings not bein worn in properly!!! |
| ID: 3467 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running probs 2 Question: hello again sonny just thought i'd let ya know how i got on. checked everything ya said and all ok, pulled the rocker cover off and found 2 bent push rods on no. 3. the tappets have been bad for a while now, i guess they popped out there seat's and bent which would explain all my probs. cheers geezer. Answer: lol- no probs!- just keep the revs down ;-) |