| ID: 3405 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fueling probs/ignition Question: hi turbo wizard, thanks for the help you gave me before. ok i got a new problem, the 440 turbo is in, and i have it started, atm its got the 1.4rt ignition pack, and also the 1.4rt car ecu. now it starts fine but the fueling is MASSIVE, i have the gtt carb, and the gtt fuel presure regulator, and my god its was pushing so much fuel it, it was blowing the seals on the carb now need to rebuild that, ne way the pressure my in tank pump puts out is 1.05 bar max, i would of thought the regulator would of slowed this to what the engien needs ??? also i went and got a ignition pack off of a ren 5 today it has the vacume on it that my pack didnt, plugged it in and disconnected the 1.4rt ecu and it wouldnt start, it turns over just no spark, we connected the ecu and still no spark, so i guess its dead ??? also the fuel pump is wired through the ecu, and soon as its disconnected it stops the pump from working, do you have any idea of a way around this ??? if i could get the fueling under controll i would just leave my 1.4rt ecu in and the 1.4rt coil as it seems to run the engine fine. any ideas ? Answer: u need the gt turbo ecu! have u got the fuel reg correctly connected? and is the float in the carb cutting the fuel from the reg? |
| ID: 3406 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tick over Question: hi wizz...well it started about a week ago and just got worst not ticking over ...ive cleaned the idling jet even put in a differant one but stills ticks over erractle and some times stalls at junctions...seems ok when traveling any where..checked all vac pipes for splits and holes all ok.... got me stumped this time wizz hope you can help... Answer: take the carb off and clean the base of the it!including the bit u need to take the two screws out of...... also check the perc fan sensor under the carb, and the one way valves in the manifold. also take yer mixture screw out and check to see if it still has a black rubber seal around it. also check yer main jet is correctly screwed in! |
| ID: 3407 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shit 1/4 mile times Question: went santa pod on sunday 14 of sep got a good reaction time of .937 but my 1/4 mile time was only 16.028 at 76mph...which i think is not good at all...i was running 20 psi ive got a t2 - t25 turbo, performance head strapped and flowed intercooler and running the cup mod ..i thought i should get a better time than that...the timing sensor on my car is all the way forward to the front of the car i think it should be in the middle i think..seems to hold back through the gears as the turbo builds and there is a lot of lag between each gear change...any idea wizz Answer: could be a manifold leak....also put yer timing back to standard.......i hope yer carb has been set up correctly to!!!! |
| ID: 3408 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shit 1/4mile times 2 Question: do you think i should of got a better time by the way ive got my car set up Answer: yes |
| ID: 3409 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re 3405 Question: i bought a ren 5 gtt ecu/ignition pack and when i turned the key it just turned over and no spark. as for the carb, the fuel is going in to the ren5gtt pressure reg, it goes fuel in one sie, fuel out the other, fuel return on the bottom, and a vacume hose going to the carb top on the top. but when connected to the carb, the fuel is going in and just coming out of all the seals on the carb, and just keep coming out. we even put the fuel pipe in to a bottle, and turned the key and it didnt seem to slow the flow at all. so tomorrow i will try and get a new ren 5 gtt ecu/ignition pack and see if that works, but the fuel pump on my car when the ecu is disconnected wont run, as it goes through the ecu, any ideas how to bypass this ? thanks for your help. Answer: bridge the fuel pump relay under the passenger side footwell to get the pump to work all the time.... its sounds like the fuel return maybe blocked.....cos you should be able to stop the flow into the carb very easily. check the pipework underneath for kinks and also where the pipe goes back into the fuel tank!!! |
| ID: 3410 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: nocking Question: I've been having such problems with my engine. its been rebuilt like 4 times and everytime i pick it up it sound great.after about 50 miles the nock is back. ##the garage say they check everything and replace anything that look a little dodgy. The noise is real loud at tick over then when u rev the speed of the nock increases the dies down so u cant hear it. then as soon as u let off it s there again and sounds horrid. Any advice? Answer: well....have you changed yer timing belt and chains and things like that? it has been known for the cam to rattle in the block, as its just metal to metal contact...no bearings!!!- in which case you either get a new block or line bore and get bearings pressed in!!! you really need to try and identify where its coming from!!!- top or bottom of the engine? |
| ID: 3411 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: she just dies... Question: Dear wiz, hope you can help... Recently my car has been dying at odd times for some reason. Have replaced the tdc wire cos it wasn't too good and i have a spark, it will die after about 5-10 mins then won't start. Give it 20 mins to cooldown and it will be ok for a short while, don't know what to check next, please help!! Answer: is the fuel pipe right next to the exhaust manifold? could be fuel vapourization..... or your carb is stuffing so much fuel in the engine , that its fouling the plugs, hence no start until fuel evapourated... also check dizzy and rotor too... |
| ID: 3412 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: indicaters Question: the fuse keeps blowing for the indicaters and if you put the hazard lights on it melts the relay Answer: sounds like a job for the autoelectrician of doom. you got some serious wiring problem methinks there! |
| ID: 3413 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Flooding Question: Hi Wiz from earlier question on car hunting I stripped carb again and noticed that the float chamber was nearly 3/4 full of fuel is this normal? Answer: yes, very normal! clean the base of the carb too!!! not just the top bit!! |
| ID: 3414 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Grp A carb Question: WiZ What is the definition of a Grp A carb mate? or does it depend on the supplier!. Cheers blue Adam Answer: it depends who's sold it/made it! usually involves enlarging the venturi to 27-28mm. and banging in a 150 main and a 90 air corrector....but there are soooooomany diffent things to change...!!! |
| ID: 3415 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: What carb setup? Question: gtl cam, t2 blower running 16psi manifold, air filter.all seems to be a1 What main jet size and ac? Also what setup on the enrichers 1st and 2nd as i got the gtl cam this mite be different from standard gtt's, i was thinking 1st stage a small increase and 2nd stage 108? Thanks Also how i make the plug gap smaller? Answer: 130 main jet. thats all you need....don't mess with anything else on the carb. at 16psi you'll be fine. the cam out of the c2j engine definately has more duration, but im not sure about lift...either way it aint gonna be much different than the turbo cam...;-) plug gap smaller?- squeeze it between yer a*** cheeks until the gap reaches the desired reading!!! |
| ID: 3416 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tick over 2 Question: since ive had this problem with my car i have noticed when going about 10 miles i get a bad hissing noise coming from the petrol cap until i release it then you get a load of air coming out ...is that any thing to do with this bad tick over,cheers Answer: yeah....sounds like you got a petrol tank breathing problem. you need to see if you can unsquash any trapped pipework....as shown by haynes! this could impede fuel flow to the carb... |
| ID: 3417 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: knocking Question: hey wiz, after taking off the zorst to do sum work under the car ive put it bak on and its totally out of line and i knocking on the rear bumper, b4 i took the zorst of it was perfectly in the middle, how do i realign the bugger? please tell me i havent got to take it all of agen!!!??!! thanx wiz Answer: yeah, you gotta take it all off again, and put it back on piece by piece. if you do EVER have to remove it again.....buy a marker pen and clearly mark up where the pipes go in relation to each other!!! as the scout's say....""be prepared"" *lol* |
| ID: 3418 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: still f*****G knocking!!! Question: Hello once again.... I asked a question a few days ago 3403 i think??? anyways it was about my car bloody knocking. i have cleaned the filter and it is going on the rolling road 2moro but it is still juddering really badly and it seems to be doing it an most gears now!! the over boost is already disconnected so it isn't that, the clutch seems fine but what other things would cause this??? ta matt Answer: could be that yer clutch is shaggered! gearbox? driveshafts? what u need is another hairy a*** mechanic to come and fiddle with yer tickle tackle, whilst listening to yer motor. u still not tellin me what it sounds like or where the noise is coming from.... |
| ID: 3419 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel smell Question: There is a strong smell of petrol coming in my car thru the vents and when i start the car when its hot it bangs like a shot gun?? there are no visual leaks under the bonnet but when i open the petrol filler cap it blows off with allmighty pressure? any ideas? cheers Answer: ok todays keywords are: filler: cap: vent: knackered. smell: carb : leak: check: 12mm nut: float chamber. or fuel:pipe:split:to:carb |
| ID: 3420 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clutch & Oil Pressure Question: Sorry Wiz, probably two silly q's cos I'm new and everything.... Firstly,the Oil pressure gauge only works now and again,any ideas? Second, the clutch is REALLY stiff and someone told me I could be doing a lot of damage longer-term? Cheers. Gooner. Answer: sorry gooner, probably two silly a's cos im old and tired.... Firstly, the Oil pressure gauge only works cos of a dodgy connection on the sender at the front of the block. Second, the clutch is REALLY stiff and my bum chum told me that i should REALLY change the clutch cable before it snaps. Cheers Wizard. |
| ID: 3421 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Remote Fan switch Question: ha again. do you have any diagrams or pictures showing how to connect the fan to a switch. if this is done will it still cut in on its own when running hot? cheers Answer: you can either connect two wires to the back of the rad fan switch and then put a switch across it. mimic-ing the operation of the fan switch itself... or. get a live feed on a switch from under the dash and splice it into the +ve feed to the fan....this way u only have 1 wire to the fan!!! this works cos the earth is always connected ;-) |
| ID: 3422 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wot can i do wid my 6*3 boxer backbox Question: i hav an essex racing universal backbox and i was wonderin which is the best way of fitting it. i am a full time mechanic so i am doin it myself. shud i cut off the old box at the backbox and just clamp it on there? Answer: mate, as a mechanic, i would of thought u'd of got a certificate in bodgery by now!....chop the box and weld the new one on there ;-) |
| ID: 3423 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo numbers?? Question: What do the numbers on the turbo's mean??? eg T2 T25 T28 T3 T4 Also with hybrids t?/t?, if it refers to a size of something which is for the turbine side and which is for the compressor side? Answer: The numbers are Garrett (the manufacturer of the turbo) model numbers. In general, they refer to the physical size, and characteristics of the turbo. You could consider them to the families of turbos, whose members have different sized and angled blades on the compressors and turbines, and different types of bearings. But overall, the physical casings are the same shape and size. So two identical looking T2's may not have identical internals, and so may perform differently. A hybrid will use maybe a T2's compressor housing with a T3's turbine (exhaust) housing, so creating a compromise between the characteristics of both. In fact, T28 is a Garrett designed hybrid - it's part T3 and part T25, designed mainly for Nissan. But the internals of the T28 vary depending on what it's fitted on (eg 200SX or Pulsar GTI-R). Have a look on Garrett's website for more information. Wiz. |
| ID: 3425 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel lines Question: I need to replace the fuel lines on me motor and was just wondering what size/diameter of pipe to buy? Answer: as far as i can remember its 5mm bore on the rubber hoses .. if your looking to replace the runs from back to front pop off to B&Q and get a roll of copper pipping the size that does gas fires etc |
| ID: 3426 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: me starter motor Question: hello wizzz ok.....i am about to change my starter motor as the old one is sticking......you told me this was due to no heat shield.........where can i get a heat shield from?.......please help......m'kay..........suckie suckie five dollar Answer: hello big boy, u wan cash up front? cos i know renault will , when you goto the parts department, and they have to order you one in! |
| ID: 3427 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: more boost Question: How do i turn the boost up by adjustin the actuator??? I've uncliped the arm bit from the wastegate but i cant hold the arm still every time i try and spin the threaded bit the whole arm turns! do i just need to clamp something on it so it doesn't all spin??? cheers Answer: mole grips on the shaft, will sort this out. |
| ID: 3428 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: heater control Question: Hi wiz.. how hard & what is involved in changing the bulbs behind the heater controls? Answer: you will need to pop out the panel as its very difficult to get to if you just remove the ashtray there is for clips that hold it in place. take out the dummy switches and you will find at least one you can see. use a thickish feeler gauge to release the clips slidding the feeler in from the front and pushing back on the pannel (the panel goes backwards then out through the ashtray hole) |
| ID: 3429 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: damn hoses Question: dear wizard i have resently replaced the clutch on my P2 R5 gtt, now all is well and good but the car is still off the road due to the fact that (wait for it) i forgot which hoses go were... do you know of anywhere i can get a diagram of the hose set up (all of them)? please help she needs to be back on the road abliterating saxo's mike. Answer: There's a reasonable diagram in the Haynes manual of the vacuum hoses (though not to scale). Similarly for coolant hoses. Alternatively, have a look through the profiles and various photos of people's engine bays to see where they go. Wiz. |
| ID: 3430 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: juddering Question: hi wiz, made up my mind it isn't a knocking its a judder. found out the mount under the intercooler was shagged. So replaced it and the bloody juddering still happend! it only does this at motor way speeds in 4th and 5th. had the clutch checked and all is fine also the drive shafts have very little play in them and are fine. the gear box is really smooth and have had no probs with it. may change the box oil though. turned the boost up from 10-15 psi and it improved but still not how it should be. it seems to be running a little rich at the mo but surely that wouldn't affect it like this??? or would it?? been on the rollers and was told fuelling wasn't the problem. so i am really stuck?? please oh wise one help!! Answer: It might be worthwhile getting the wheel alignment (tracking, camber, castor) checked on a 4 wheel laser alignment system. You could have a slightly bend suspension component, or a worn bush causing the movement. Wiz. |
| ID: 3431 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dumps not dumping Question: Hi wiz, my dump valve ain't working. I took it off the main pipe but left the vacuum pipe on to check if it is opening when I rev the car and the let go. But it doesn't even move. Took it apart and oiled it but still the same and I am running a fair bit of boost. The only mods so far are bleed valve and jetex element filter. PLEASE HELP Answer: Assuming you have a diaphragm type DV, as piston types are prone to jamming and their use is discouraged on GT Turbos. The dump valve diaphragm won't move much (or probably at all) without positive pressure behind it. So you can't test it off the car like that. Assuming you have the vacuum pipe connected to a T-piece in the pipe between carb base and ignition module, this should provide enough vacuum to pull the diaphragm against the spring pressure. Check the diaphragm isn't torn, and the spring is seated correctly. You don't say if it ever worked. If it never did, then it's possible the spring is too strong for the boost you're running. Get a softer spring from the manufacturer. Wiz. |
| ID: 3434 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hissing at full boost Question: hi wiz wondering if you can help..ive recently folded the pipe in half that comes from the top of the dump valve and sucured it with a cable tie, ive had no probs so far but the last 2 days when on full boost i can hear hissing as if boost is escaping any ideas where from ta? Answer: remove the dump valve completely, and wedge a stubby screwdriver in the hole....then jubilee clip it up. i bet the noise disappears ;-) |
| ID: 3435 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Laguna II Turbo Question: Do you have any idea what Turbo's are used and wether or not a dump valve can be fitted? Answer: i have no idea what turbo is used, as i have no access to a recent 'dialogsys' (renault parts computer prog)copy!! but i'd put money on it being no bigger than a t3. either way i reckon you could fit a dump valve, although it'd probably have to be a double piston type so it doen't mess with yer airflow meters and stuff. it probably already has a bosch one on as standard, following the example set by VW/Audi etc etc. i would find out if fitting the dump valve will invalidate yer warranty though.....you wouldn't want that now would you *lol* |
| ID: 3436 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: central locking, interior light and lights Question: my central locking, interior light and clock dont work and when i put my ignition on my lights come on including dash??? agghhhh please help THANKS Answer: Sounds like some major problems in your fusebox. Remove the fusebox (under the glovebox) and check for any corrosion or stray wires. Wiz. |
| ID: 3437 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clunk Question: Hi there, When I take a sharp right hand turn I get this clunk noise from the front left hand side. I've checked everything is done up tight, change the driveshaft but still get the clunk. Any ideas???? Cheers Answer: check yer suspension tops and yer wishbone bushes.... |