| ID: 3375 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Question: Dear Wizzy, As I'm retired (almost) I have very little money to spend on my car. Have you any ideas on 'getting' extra money for very little effort. I think I need about 1000 spondulies for my aims. PS my missus insists that I spend all available money on the house. Whats that all about. I'm a spineless worm I know but I cant stand up to her, other wise she wont feed me. Please help. Old Twa.....Man giffer Answer: as you are near retirement age, i'd suggest appearing in an over 65 porn movie. if you feel the urge to bend over you'll get more money.... as its well known that blokes in porn movies never get as much as the women.... so go for a gay movie and things are improved ;-) or you could become a 5 guru.....do other peoples cars and then spend the money earnt off them on your own car! |
| ID: 3376 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: over boosting Question: hi wiz...having big problems with turbo over boosting.i have a standard turbo on my 5.i removed the perc fan and steel pipe from the turbo elbow and blocked it ofwith some exhaust paste.but when i put my foot down its boosting about 1.5 bar +.now my turbo has blown.what could the problem be. Answer: it sounds like you haven't got the actuator pipe on the correct port from the carb top to the actuator.... you need the pipe going to the port nearest the front of the car. either that or close yer bleed valve ;-) |
| ID: 3377 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine conversion complete ref f/n:3235-now for the tuning Question: Just done the complete conversion, turbo pistons head, manifold etc etc. only thing is the cam is still a gtl cam, what effect will this have? Also this fuel enrichment circuit im hearing about,you know much about it wiz ie 1st and 2nd stage enricher sizes roughly and the diaphram on side of carb, brass screw, is it the brass bush thats on the part that comes off the carb were the needle comes thru that needs worked on? many many many Thanks in advance GT_MAXER Answer: the gtl cam...i wouldn't worry about this. it'll run fine with it. in fact if the gtl hass the c2j lump, then you'll get more torque as the duration is longer on the cam , than the turbo item ;-) on a standard turbo carb...the main is 120. the air corrector is 125. the 1st stage enricher is 100 and i think the 2nd stage is also 100 (maybe wrong here). the air corrector is visible next to the venturi, when u look down the carb. the main jet is hidden in the float chamber, behind the 12mm bolt. the 1st stage enricher is in the part of the carb that is removable, on the passenger side...look in the triangular shaped face that is exposed when u take it off (3 bolts)....one jet should be removable...this is 1st stage enricher...the second stage is visible in the matching triangular face on the carb body, and is actually a non-removable bush. |
| ID: 3378 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: seating Question: my drivers seat has seen better days, so im looking to replace it. my friend said its possible to replace it with a passenger seat and just have the handles on the other side? will this work? thanks Answer: yes it still works, although the door pocket is abit close for comfort!!! well thats what the ladies say when they're trying to recline the seat "" alittle further"" ;-) for what reason, i dunno!!! |
| ID: 3379 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Reverse? Question: Hi wiz When i engage reverse the light comes on but when i do reverse the dash fuse blows and all lights at back go out plz help! Answer: ok....first try leaving the car actually in reverse for a long while....does the bulb wanna blow then? the only thing i can think would cause this time delay effect is that the engine moves forwards as you reverse and potentially cause the alternator to short on the radiator....which i have seen before.... failing thats, its gonna be some weird electrical fault...try an autoelectrician...thats really yer best bet. |
| ID: 3380 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: acctuator Question: Hi Wiz how can I find out what turbo I have got ie numbers or markings on them. And also how hard is it to fit a t3 acctuatos can it fit straight on to the existing turbo and where the acctuator is single port do I just do away with other T piece and run it striaght in to the carb? Thanks Answer: phone a turbo remanufacturing place....they should be able to tell you... i do believe that there are places on the net that also list the numbers....but i can't be bothered to find out and tell you...;-) the t3 actuators need a new bracket to mount them onto the turbo, as they have a slightly different stud pattern payout. t- piece question...yes, do the cup mod, it'll sort u out. as mentioned a million and one times before, by me, and many other turbo wizards before me.....i bet they got sick of it too *lol* |
| ID: 3381 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure gauge Question: hi, where do i connect another oil pressure gauge (not electrical) to the block? Answer: well, you can T into the oil pressure gauge at the bottom of the turbo oil feed, or into the oil pipe as it goes into the rad.....maybe even into the very obscure blanking hole that is near the oil filter, that appears to join onto the same oil gallery that the turbo oil feed banjo union connector does... in fact its symmetrically on the other side of the engine, for those that really wanna go and have a look, but i bet there aint many that do!!! |
| ID: 3382 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 200BHP + Question: im in t process of tuning my gtt and wanna know wot things i need to do to get it running about 180bhp daily 200bhp + every now and then?!?!?!?! im gonna get a charge cooler, cool air inake and new hybrid turbo. wot else would u recommend. cheers bizz Answer: cam-a lam-a ding dong super-cam-a fragalistic-expi-ala-dotious? spot the cammection? :OP |
| ID: 3383 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering springs Question: dear wizard, i want to lower my 5 about 35mil what would be the best springs to use e.g. koni, avo, gmax etc etc Answer: depends how much u wanna spend. springs are all pretty similar on their own, unless you get an actual adjustable shock set. if u thinking cheap, i know a certain parts supplier in erdington your dad uses supplies them ;-) |
| ID: 3384 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Loss of Boost Question: Short story, drove home one night and all ok went to it next morning and I had no turbo. The gauge registars some boost however at high revs in a low gear but it is not boosting properly. I have checked all pipes and bought a new i/c to carb pipe to rule out the d/v's but still the same. Short of buying all new hose's what else could I look for? Oh, turbo didnt smoke and there was no rattle's. Answer: shorter story. check turbo for play- could be touching housing and not spinning correctly. check to see manifold is not leaking, as this causes turbo not to boost properly. check to see intercooler not leaking. |
| ID: 3385 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cracked Dashboard Question: Hi, i have a bit of a prob with my dash. its had a prang & the drivers left knee has smashed the dashboard left of the steering column where a boost controller can be mounted. The plastic trim now won't stay on, what can i do? Thinking maybe of getting an aluminium square to put in there but i'd probably have to glue (?) the underside trim. Any ideas (except replacing the dash :-) ? Cheers Answer: yeah, attach the ally bit to the dash, is yer best bet...but the under steering wheel cowling, could be screwed onto some sneaky brackets if you were to make some...if u catch my drift!!! remember the cowling screws under the steering column anyway! |
| ID: 3386 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: quote-3377 follow up Question: Hello Wiz Master it is the c2j block and cam so more torque is good, much difference tho? Ive found a puzzling problem. When i done the turbo conversion i had a connection on the passangers side of the manifold just below the carb, i blocked this up and all went fine but then i realised this was ment to be connected to the ecu and t'd to the dumpvalve and also t'd to a boost gauge for manifold readings so i did this, now when i put my foot down in 3rd,4th and 5th it will not pull and hesitates and stutters and may pop(backfire) ive checked carb jets timing dizzy cap etc all seems fine so i go back to orig state were it was blocked and its fine again,what could be causeing this.I dont seem to be having any leaks here and at idle its at -10 psi and boost readings are fine. Sorry for the long essay but this is weird and worrying Thanks Wiz GT_MAXER Answer: try a different ecu. make sure the timing sensor wire is unburned. check to see that your cam timing is spot on too! as it sounds like you may have a timing issue here!! |
| ID: 3387 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bleeding system Question: hello mate how are ya having loads of bother with car loads of prssure in the water system ! everyone says the hg is gone but i believe not ! there is no signs whatso ever it runs cool no oil in water no water out exuast, no bubbles in header tank nothing !!! I think its a air lock due to the fact i cannot get hot air through the heaters just warmish air and the water inthe header tank always stays cold is there anyway a garage or someone can prssurize the water system so it bleeds properly or any other way to bleed it help would be very very much appriciated Answer: do u know how to bleed the system yourself? steps... 1) undo bleed nipples. 2) undo expansion bottle cap 3) squeeze top pipe to bottle 4) blow into bottle, selaing top with mouth. 5) when just water comes out of bleed nipples tighten them up, whilst still blowing and u should be ok. if its still dodgy then u may have to suspect a dodgy thermostat or water pump or summat! |
| ID: 3388 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dodgy indicators and heaters Question: hiya wiz,got a bit of a prob,when i put the ignition on my indicators and heaters work as normal,but then when i start her up the indicators and heaters dont work at all,do you have any ideas kind sir cheers dale Answer: is your alternator working correctly? have u checked the fuses in the fusebox? sounds like a shady connection somewhere.....perhaps the ignition barrel itself? probably best to get an autoelectrician on the case....it sounds like it should be easy to locate the fault.... but i aint no lekky guru! |
| ID: 3389 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke! Question: Got a bit of Greyish smoke coming from the exhaust on max rev gear changes, particualrily in 4th & 5th, something on the way out? Answer: at max revs? could be turbo, valve stem seals, or piston rings. compression test would tell u if rings are going. turbo shaft play may indicate turbo oil seal failure. valve stem oil seals.....need to take rocker cover off to look at these. |
| ID: 3390 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb vaccume Question: Wiz, No luck on the missfire/backfire problem as yet , however I have found when I pump my brakes the car picks up RPM from 1000 to 2000 even when I have my foot off the gas! what does this tell us ? its like the ammount of vaccume on the brake servo is affecting idle speed. oh er! cheers re: other question missfire Ill let you know whats up when/if I sort it (missfire/backfire) and the plugs i am using are NGK platinum the gpA carb has now been stripped looks all ok but still runs crap! Answer: borrow some one elses carb. then try their ecu. this should indicate problems. also: do u have the restrictors in the breather system?- they can also affect idle! |
| ID: 3391 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 200 BHP+ cont.. Question: hi i got your answer for my last qu 3382 and ive got a kent rally cam in the car is that alrite? is there anythng else apart from wot ive mentioned u think i need o get 200BHP + thanks again bizz Answer: 20psi. |
| ID: 3392 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bottom end probs Question: hi kid on wizzard ! why does the bottom end on a r5 go ?( big end knocking ) my cars not high milage and not runing high boost and the oil pressure is spot on or maybe higher than normal so why would this part fail ?? cheers Answer: as 5 owners we have a problem. its called oil slosh! we like booting our cars around corners, showin our mates how great we are at driving, and then BOOM!- bottom end goes.... its cos the oil pump can't pick up oil, if it's all stuck against the passenger side wall of the sump! then the bottom end runs dry and bingo...fecked bearing. u need a baffled sump. there are other reasons too....such as crap oil, which under heavy loads from these engines cannot create a decent cushion of oil between the crank and the bearing surface. also: there is a recess next to the cam....where items of metal can get trapped, and they never really get washed out....unless i suppose you really gun it everywhere...then it could move to the sumpand hence grind a bearing to boogery! |
| ID: 3393 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: runing in Question: hi wizz theres lots of people having probs runing cars in after a rebuild like bits in the oil blowing turbo seals etc etc so what is the best way to run a r5 in after a rebuild ? Answer: change the oil as often as possible. put the crappest standard blower on u can find.... maybe even get a inline oil filter for the turbo, and check the fecker everyday! remember...3000rpm for 500miles....then 4000rpm for another 500miles. with no boost!!!! |
| ID: 3394 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: can this be done Question: can a r5 be run without the turbo boosting ? ie taking the acuator rod off i know it would be realy slow but could it be done . would it run like this ? sorry about the stupid question but its doing my head in ! lol cheers Answer: the r5 can be run with no boost. i have used the exhaust housing and elbow, with the core removed (and the remaining hole blocked) to get me home after another nightmare event. taking the actuator arm off will mean u get no boost, but the turbo will still be spinning abit....which is still enuff to booger it. ive also had a turbo seize on me - u can't get over 90mph btw....*lol* |
| ID: 3395 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Thermostate Question: I decided to purchase a new thermostate with a lower temp setting but when it came to fit it i realised that my renault didn't actually have one on it in the first place, Do you think i should leave it with out or put this one in? If not can you see me having any problems with the starting in the winter etc Answer: u'll have problems starting and no interior heating if u dont put it in...... pass the cardigan and slippers......brrrr! |
| ID: 3396 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starter Motor Question: After i have driven my car for a while i stop and turn the car off when i return say within 10 -15 Minutes the car will not turn over i can hear the starter motor engage but will not turn over, after about 4 -5 times of constant on / off the car will start no problem. Any ideas? ( it doesn't happen all the time ) Answer: the starter motor is sticking... cos u've probably got no heatshield on it! u will more than likely need a new starter motor.... |
| ID: 3397 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: restrictors Question: do i need restrictors in my breather system, were it goes from back of manifold to t piece to breather filter, pot? just wondering as i dont have one and seem to think that as this is connected to manifold this connection will cause a manifold leakage.Thanks Answer: from the manifold to t piece...is 1.7mm....from the t piece to the turbo U pipe is 7mm |
| ID: 3398 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Soft brakes Question: Dear Wiz, Have changed front pads. Removed cap from master cylinder, forced old pistons apart, out dropped old pads, in with the new. Replaced master cylinder lid, no spillage of fluid. Have done 400 miles, brake pedal still soft (although brakes reassuringly do work!). No loss of fluid. Brake pedal used to be hard, now its not. Wot 2 do please? Answer: could be the servo unit itself.....or a leak in the pipe that gets the vacuum from the manifold.... does the one way valve on the drivers side of the manifold work correctly.....as the ball valve inside, likes to stick!!! |
| ID: 3399 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bit of a starnge one Question: Problem goes like this..... Some times, when I go over a big ish speed bump, the revs drop straight away & the car nearly stalls. Doesnt matter what speed i'm doing, could be 2 mph or 20. Usually does it when the cars hot. I've checked all the jets in the carb, wiggled the TDC sensor & connections on the AEI when the cars running and stationary and these dont seem to be the cause. Any ideas ?? Answer: try looking at your king lead, and leads from cap to plugs...these may be loose. or.....this is a good one... the main live feed from the battery could be touching the exhaust pipe, and earthong the car out....or the alternator on the radiator...ive seen/ had both happen to me. |
| ID: 3400 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starter motor Part Deux Question: I think your right i don't have a heat sheild as i have only recently put a new starter motor on it. Do they come as standard with heat sheilds or is this an after market extra if so could you advise me as to were to get one? Answer: they came as standard with a heatshield. - of course im right! *lol* |
| ID: 3401 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: remote central locking Question: hello again wiz!! im havin problems with my remote cental locking on phase 2.bought a new unit and key fob.but it still dont work? i thought it might be because the interior light aint workin? does the switches on the door that activate the interior light havre to be connected to create an earth for the light and remote sensor? Answer: i do beleive that the wiring for this is in the back of haynes manual. but just as a thought, im assuming that you've checked the relative fuses...... also check it in another renault....not necessarily a 5 as they ALL work off the same units! if it don't work in yer sisters clio or yer mates 19 then u know its fecked!....or yer battery aint any good in the fob ;-) |
| ID: 3402 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine convertion problems Question: hi, i have a clio 1.4rt, and i have got a volvo 440 turbo engine, now we took the old engine and box out and stuck this new engine and box in, now its all mounted fine and today we connected up all the electrics, went to start it and it turns over fine, connected up the ht leads (im using the standard 1.4rt ignition module) turned it over and its sounds like its starting over then depending on which way the ht leads are connected the engine either sends a few bangs out of the exhaust, if we switch the ht leads over, on the dizzy, it sends a bang out of the carb and some smoke/fuel vapour. so we cant get it to start, oh forgot to mention thought the volvo lump is originally injection this engine was converted to carb and was running and used in a renault 5. could it be that the ignition module is not making it work propperly? oh also my old ECU for the injection on the 1.4rt is still connected. any ideas ? Answer: sounds like the leads to the spark plugs are on the wrong way round... 5's tend to explode out of strange orifices when either the dizzy cap is on wrong/ leads are wrong, or the cam has been fitted 180° out....something that i know alot about *lol* it might be worthwhile looking on the volvo 480owners forum...its free ;-) http://pub32.ezboard.com/bvolvo480 tell 'Jamododger' the 'turbo wizard' sent you *roflol* |
| ID: 3403 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: knocking Question: hi wiz, the car seems to run fine in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but i sometimes get a knocking and slight juddering whilst in 4th and 5th. the exhaust rattles and moves alot! but it really seems to shake in the upper gears, also i think it's time for a new filter and a session on a rolling road to sort out fuelling. apart from that is there anything else it could be??? cheers matt Answer: are you sure its not yer whole body shaking with excitement? change yer filter and clean yer carb....also disconnect the overboost pressure switch on the turbo to intercooler pipe..... |
| ID: 3404 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo blown Question: hello me old chum. i had a large hybrid turbo on my car untill it started smoking and spitting oil into the intercooler. so i sent it back . They said the bearings and seals were f!*+ked and the reasen was lack of oil to the turbo or low oil pressure. the turbo has only done 900 miles and when i put it on i also fitted a new oil feed pipe new oil & filter any ideas why ther is a lack of oil & how to fix it cheers Answer: erm, could be that yer oil pump is shagged. either shim the ball valve in it, or buy a new one..... oops- sorry u can't get a new one *lol*..renault have sold out i think! |