| ID: 3251 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Regulator circuit? Question: Hi, Here we go again! What's the regulator circuit, coz I recon your right about an old/dodgy wire in there somewhere. I've checked all the main junction harnesses and there A-OK. I was starting to think it might have been the alternator? cheers, Chris Answer: the regulator on the alternator, limits the voltage to between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. when its packs up, the batt light can flash..... it could also be the alternator too though...;-) |
| ID: 3252 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Question: I have the Hanyes manual but it seems to be very brief in discribing how to strip the carb (32 Dis I think) any ideas were i can get a better guide and breakdown manual? Answer: try haynes carburettor manual...there is a whole section on the SOLEX 32DIS..... |
| ID: 3253 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Head gasket on its way..... Question: Just a qiuck one oh wizard of boost, Dont know if my h/g is on its way out or not. There seems to be evidence of oily wetness between the head and the block, under the spark plugs, espically where the gasket pokes out a bit. Should this area be totaly dry ?? I'm getting no mayo in the rocker, dont seem to have any drastic loss of water or oil. It is running a bit hot on boost tho [just put a new rad on it] but cool with out boost. Cheers. Answer: little wizard: ""please sir, can i have permission to call this member a total plonker?"" big wizard: ""no, just because he's spilled oil down the rocker cover last time he he filled the car up, doesn't mean he's a total plum"" little wizard: "" so, what are you saying?- thats oil runs down under gravity, down the outside of the rocker cover then onto the head, giving the illusion of a screwed H/G?"" big wizard: "" yes, that'd be correct. Although a leaking rocker cover gasket would also exhibit similar signs"" little wizard: ""you're great!"" big wizard: "" i know...."" |
| ID: 3254 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: d valve Question: hi wizz new too club witch dump valve do u reckamend for standard car with scopion on please# Answer: forge grp A. |
| ID: 3255 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: big end Question: my big end is knocking like a bastard, the car stil goes tho. ive been told i can swap the bottom end bearing shells by taking off the plate that covers the flywheel, then take the sump off, drain the oil and then i will see the bottom ends to swap them over. my other options are to fit a new engine or get a new bottom end (loads ov money!!!). the bearings are only £22 apparently so its worth a try yeah? wot u rekkon? can u give me ur view on all ov the options available 2 me. cheers bud ian. Answer: ok....by draining the sump and removing it, you can see all of the big end and main caps. you can only change the big end bearings with the engine in..... for the main bearings you have to remove the crank...which is an engine out job ideally. your best bet is to take off all the caps and check the state of each bearing in turn....then you'll know which ones are boogered. if the mains are shagged, then regrinding the crank with bearings supplied is approx £130. then you gotta fit it....which aint *such* a big deal. a 'new' engine is probably gonna b second hand....which could be bolloxed anyways..... the big end bearings are indeed £22 ish...:-) |
| ID: 3256 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: SUN-ROOF Question: Hi Wiz, Do you know the best place to get replacement weatherstrip for the factory fitted sun-roof on H-reg Raider? Thanks! Answer: now, which part of the sunroof are we talking about here? the odd looking plastic strip that is at the front of the sunroof, that stops the wind blowing into the car?- its sort of curved.... if this is what you are talking about, you may have to go second hand.....or....try 'car parts mart'....there are companies that still make this type of thing. |
| ID: 3257 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 2nd Gear Question: Hi Wizz Just a quick question my 5 seems to jump out of second gear and also crunches when trying to put it in second but only when i accelerate up to Medium revs it looks like it has had a new main selector shaft which goes between the linkage and the gear stick all the other gears seem to be perfect. Any ideas Answer: sounds like the box is on its way out to me.... the thing inside the box that keeps it in second is obviously worn....probably the selector. im no gearbox guru, but i can smell a problem a mile away....bit like a lusty young lady, might seem ok on the outside, but can be harbouring all sorts of nasties inside ;-) id go to a gearbox specialist and get their 'expensiv' and valuable opinion :-P |
| ID: 3258 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: leak Question: hi wiz im gettin alot of oil around my exhaust manifold gasket, which appears to be coming from the head.Also when i start up the car i get a puff of blue smoke. does this sound as though the exhaust gasket needs replacing or the head gasket, or both? thanks Answer: two different things mate. you got a leaky valve stem seal as well as a leaky rocker cover gasket. the rocker cover gasket is easy to do.....but the valve stem seal aint, its potentially a head off and apart job....so probably best leave it for the moment! |
| ID: 3259 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 25 psi low comp pistons or not? Question: Hi wiz, I am running 25-30 psi (not all the time) and have been told I should either have low compression pistons or an incar timing adjuster (on standard pistons). I'm only running forecourt fuel and need the car to be a bit more reliable. I have got a high lift cam, the header has had the usual mods including skimmed (I know thats a no-no but didn't know that at the time). The engine is being re-built at the moment and need to replace a piston anyway, so are low compression pistons a must have at this kind of boost?? What is the maximum boost you can run on standard pistons?? Are there any others suggestions you could make. Thanks Paul Answer: ok....im assuming that the 25-30 psi reading is at the carb top, and not what the engine is actually seeing.... skimming the head is ok, up to a certain point...the exact minimum figure is a cause of great discussion...so im not going to drop myself in the poo there ;-) they say that on forecourt fuel, max boost should be around 22psi at the engine- around 25psi at the carb top.-this is assuming timing is kept standard. now i know everyone has a mate who runs 32psi everyday....but they're just lucky. if you wanna run more boost, get slightly lower comp pistons, as a way of precaution (i wouldn't do it, cos if i happened to melt one, id have to get one machined to match the others first, then fit it...all adding extra time tec etc). failing that get water injection...which slows the burn of the fuel, and reduces intake temperatures dramatically. retard the timing...this is an area i am still looking into at the moment. everyone i know runs standard timing (everyone running a standrad ecu and carb, that is.) and way, way back in the day, a certain well known tuner used to retard the timing of ALL of his customer's cars when used on the 1/4 mile... |
| ID: 3260 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Will It Start / Wont It Start?? Question: Hello oh great one !!! My question to you is as follow. My 5 is very tempremental about starting, when it finally starts at appears as if the timing is out, but if i turn it off and turn it straight back on it wont start. A friend of a friend said something about a relay maybe causing a prob. The starting thing is not a major prob at the mo as its only a project car and not ready for the road yet. Cheers Answer: perhaps you need to have a good look at the ignition in its etirety any faults will not alow it to start dizy cap rotor leads plugs f/w pickup etc etc next time it dont start see if you got good spark etc (try a plug gap of .65mm) |
| ID: 3261 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no fuel Question: Just had a new fuel pump on the car as I thought the old one was knackered - then found out there was no power getting to the pump. This is intermittant as sometimes the pump gets power sometimes it dont. had a look for the relay beside the fusebox with the ignition on and whilst looking for the relay the bloody pump started again! Does this sound like it could be the relay causing the problem? and is the relay definitely down in the passengers footwell by the fusebox? Cheers Answer: fuel pump relay sits up the back of the fuse board .it has six wires going to it (pair of three in a row).. if you get into trouble and you got no fuel pump bridge the fat white wire with the fat red wire.(there at oposite corners to each other) the relay needs info from the AEI (engine running)to make it work the pump ..somtimes that info can fail and you get no fuel pump. |
| ID: 3262 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Flamer kits Question: Can they damage your engine? By cutting the ignition and letting fuel through will this cause bore wash? Answer: it will cause bore wash, but only if you keep doing it continuously for like a day! if yer car flames without cutting the ignition, then you really are overfuelling!!! |
| ID: 3263 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: JB3 gear box parts sources Question: HELP!! I need the needle bearing inside of 5th gear and shift bushings in the s*** arm on gearbox of a JB3. There are no sources here in USA. Anyone have a link to a supplier? Cheers, Jamie Answer: i can apreciate that parts a getting hard to get hold of, like wise in the uk im in the process of talking to a very good friend at NPDC here in the uk to come up with a data base for parts for the c405 and maybe even the R122B i have extensive knowlage on rens and may be able to cross referance parts to later models the answer at the moment is mail from somone thats got spare parts |
| ID: 3264 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: auto dump Question: hi, ive just fitted a K-TEC twin fast road dump valve and ally carb top(unknown make)since then when the car revs to around 3500 it dumps off without me doing a thing and nearly puts me through the wind screen,my cousine says he used to have one and he fitted a dump valve and it was too big??and it did the same and he had to mess with the actuator,can you help? the car isnt on the road at the minute so i havnt realy tested it..cheers, stef Answer: at around 3,500 your up producing max boost i would look at the over boost sensor try disconecting it and see if you get same prob its located in the main boost pipe from turbo to intercooler |
| ID: 3265 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Converting from P1 to P2 Question: Alright Wiz What do I need to change to convert my Phase 1 cooling to a Phase 2 set up. I just bought a samco carb set and only 2 of the hoses fit, the other 2 are similar but are not quite the same, the 1 from w/pump to carb and w/pump to turbo dont fit! Answer: you need a degassing chamber (found next to the drivers side headlamp on ph 2 cars) and a ph2 water expansion bottle.... if you have ALL the water pipes then fitting them should not be a problem. |
| ID: 3266 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dashboard Question: Can you give me a step by step guide to removing the dashboard, the haynes is crap. Thanks Sam Answer: yeah. 1) read haynes carefully. 2) follow the procedure exactly. 3) failing that..... off the top of my head... remove steering wheel, column cowling (you may also have to drop the steering column down too- can't remember). then squeeze together the clips either side of the dash...do not use a screwdriver else they snap. the bottom of the dash should loosen...i think you have to remove the clocks and the ashtray...remove all screws attaching dash to metal work...then with screwdriver lever off the airducts under the windscreen and unclip top of dash from hidden clips (hard to do, need brute force) .remove all switchgear too...label lekky clips at back and postion on dash board! hopefully it should pull off. commonsense and patience is needed here! |
| ID: 3267 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: *Crazy Lights* Question: Alright Wiz, I've got a problem with my lights. When i have the ignition on my lights are always on...they are only on the left hand side and at a level below dipped (maybe parking light mode???) Anyway its gettin annoying driving around with dipped lights on all the time so please please please help..... Pint in the post    Chris Answer: are you sure its a renault not a volvo ........ 1: Try finding the pink relay that does dim dip and unplug it see if prob goes 2: could be that somthing like the radio/amp etc has been wired up to the head light fuse and is back feeding it ... 3: look at the loom that passes across the front chassis beem behind bummper, it could be crushed by somthing like intercooler |
| ID: 3268 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Temp gauge Question: My temp gauge doesnt work at the moment which is a real pain but when Im accelerating quickly the red light comes on even thou the engine has only been running a couple of minutes then fades out as I slow down! Any ideas? Answer: dodgy connection at the temp sender unit. one wire is the red light, the other is the actual temp reading....take off connection block, and replace with spade connectors. |
| ID: 3269 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: getting hot Question: hi wiz...right im running about 16psi got a low temp fan switch fitted ..when traveling about 75 ish mph the temp gauge keeps about half way but as soon as you put your foot down to over take the temp goes sky high and i always have to travel with the heater on to keep it at half way and it gets a bit hot in the cabin..please help..juggy Answer: is your rad bolloxed?- its no good fitting a a low temp fan switch to a fecked rad. failing that, yer head gasket could be on the way out, or the bottom hose to the rad is squashed by the alternator. also check the thermostat, to see if its opening at the correct temp! |
| ID: 3272 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Handbrake balance Question: Hi Wizzo, My car failed its MOT on Fri because of ""low performance"" from the rear nearside brake when the handbrake is applied, but the service brake was fine!? If you jack the car up with the handbrake on you can just turn the ""poor"" side with a 2 foot bar between the studs (No wheel on) and the good side doesn't move. The cables both move freely, although they are slightly different - is that normal? I have taken the handbrake actuator (lever and little cam thing) off the poor side and there is no wear on it and it appears to work fine, although the offside is definitely stronger. The amount of movement when the handbrake is applied is tiny anyway so I probably wouldn't be able to judge between the 2 callipers by that anyhow. I've contributed blood and sweat and I'm close to becoming bald!! I am not shelling out £59.99 + Vat for a new calliper until I am convinced it's fubar'd Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ps It's booked in again for next Friday ;- ) Answer: well, from your observations id say it knackered....although there is a way to get it work maybe a little better.... take off the wheel....get orbital sander and get the surface of the disc and pad flat. then go round the block with the handbrake slightly on, to bed it in. whilst running pull it on and off as well.. then see if this is any better. if not, reach for the wallet. |
| ID: 3273 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: relay Question: Quick question....I noticed the fuel pump relay is a six pin relay but ive only got 5 wires goin to it. Should there be 5 or 6 wires? Answer: only five wires from the relay pin no 4 is an optianal take off for another live to power up another device thats not fitted on the five |
| ID: 3274 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 172 exhaust on my 5 Question: aiiiiiiiiiiiii hello wizza would it be possible to fit a st8 through scorpian exhaust off a clio 172 onto my 5, or just the backbox. cheers Answer: i tell you what, i'll just pop outside and have a look through my enormous parts bin, pop on the 172 exhaust on my car, and ill tell ya. more seriously though...id go down to your local reno dealer and see if they can bring the picture of the exhaust up on the screen...see if it compares to the 5 design. even then, who knows if the diameter bore of the pipe will fit! + its an MOT fail, as it'll have no silencer in it....if its a true straight thru exhaust! im assuming this is an effort to save pennies...personally i would give it a miss. |
| ID: 3275 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RE-USABLE? Question: Hi TW, I've just remove the head from one of the cars I've got, to find that the head gasket is very new. On removing the head, it hasn't damaged the head gasket at all. Is it possible to re-use it, or should it be slung anyway?? cheers, Chris (r5 gtt-international parts dealer = yyeehhaa!!) Answer: chris...hmmm. would you re-use anything else that'd been used before..and put under a great deal of pressure and strain? - think...oil, rad, pipework, jonnies ;-) cos i know i wouldn't! basically the head gasket has been compressed and is now moulded to the shape of the head and block... when you put it back together you won't get it in exact;y the same spot, and hence cause weakness in the gasket-> head/block mating surfaces. it'll blow alot quicker! but if ya *really* wanna re-use it then be my guest...*lol* |
| ID: 3277 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: thermostat Question: Hi i know its not a 5 , but the gf's clio may have a cooling prob , do u know where 2 find the thermostat as i think this may be the prob , its had a new rad and checked everything else, its a mk1 clio 1.8 petrol rt , thanks Answer: thermostats are usually in or around the waterpump area. id check there first. then get a haynes manual ;-) |
| ID: 3278 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Thermostat. Question: How do I check a thermostat to make sure that its working ok? I heard that you have to drop them in some boiling water and they should then open, but I tried that with two different stats from 2 different companies and they both stayed shut in boiling water!! Answer: i put them in a pan of warm water, then warm the water up to boiling, with a thermostat in them....they only open a bit, its not like a huge flap that comes swinging open or anything like that! the very centre of the unit moves probably about 1cm or less away from the outside piece! |
| ID: 3279 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Camber and stuff Question: here was my last question: (PLEASE HELP TURBO MAN, i can't find anyone to help me, i basically have knocking noises coming from the back and one wheel is pointing inwards facing forward. i think i may have problems with the rear axle or something and need someone to look at it properly. Ive gone to places and all theve done is check the wheel alignment. Do you know anywhere i can go to check all the rear suspension components. The Wizard Replies: you are gonna have to get a 4 wheel alignment check done, then hopefully the mechanic will be able to tell what is at fault.....pray its not a bent rear trailing arm!) What if it is the a bent rear trailing arm??? and how much roughly would i be looking at???? Answer: an arm and a leg - ho ho ho!  Dbest off getting one of these from someone breaking a car, and make sure that aint bent either....measure both sides again fixed points on the bodywork...they should be the same! |
| ID: 3280 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Shock Question: Hello wizard, I have Avo coilovers and would like to know if they would fit in a phase 2 as i am thinking of swaping my engine also and i don't want to wast my shocks for nothing? Cheers Answer: they will fit, but you must use the suspension tops off the ph1!!! you MUST not use the kidney shaped tops that they use on the ph2, else the wheels adopt a very peculiar "" kicked in the nuts"" stance.- they camber the wrong way! |
| ID: 3281 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling down more Question: I dont seem to have a thermostat in the top hose near the water pump, its off another 5 turbo, y would this b and should i buy a low temp one straight away? I found it to get very warm sittin in traffic, need to fit a temp gauge and link to water pump?? Also would fitting a diesal rad out of a 5 and a seperate oil cooler be good for cooling as its a bigger water rad and the oil cooler would be sufice. Thanks Wiz GT_MAXER Answer: ok, you version of 'very warm' and my version may be different. my car is a ph1, so a slightly different water system to yours....but the basics are the same. assuming that the car when it's cold the temp gauge sits at 0° (horizontal) some people who run no thermostat say theirs sits at 30° (1st mark) off the bottom or even below this! my low temp fan switch'd rad and normal thermostat comes on at between 45° and 60° off the bottom off horizontal. with a standard rad fan switch then you tend to get the fan switch on above 60° (above horizontal)- now that IS warm! taking a thermostat out tends to be a bodge to disguise a knackered radiator. you can use a clio diesel one with a seperate oil cooler if you want....but a new 5 turbo one does a good job too. |
| ID: 3282 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starter Motor Question: hello wizzzzzzz........i need two questions from you if you could. you see they are down to this heat wave we are getting.... 1) due to the heat, my car is running a little hot.......about the third bar on the meter.....i guess that the first one is 30degrees, second 60degrees, and third is 90degrees........the fan is on but it is getting really hot.....and im scared it will go over into the red......is this normal on a phase 2??????? 2) my next question is from the same hot weather we have been getting........when on a long journey in this heat i noticed that my starter motor is sticking........i stop the engine and then restart it but nothing happens until i put the car in gear, take the handbrake off and rock the car back and fourth....then get back in and it starts...........this only does this in the heat or when the car is very hot.............does this mean that the starter motor is fecked????......is it hard for me to change one myself on these cars???? Thanx wizzzzz...........PS are you going to USC this weekend :-) Answer: have you checked to see if yer thermostat is working correctly, also when was the rad last changed? as for the starter motor.....renault put a heat shield on this for a reason...maybe its time to make another one. the starter sounds fecked! + its not that hard to change. |
| ID: 3283 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: overheating!! Question: Why is it when i look at beautiful laydees down by the sea-front i start overheating???? P.s The car is fine!! Answer: the reason you start overheating is due to frustration. if you owned a decent car, then the laydees would come flocking over to you.- then you wouldn't get so hot n bothered ;-) in the mean time, keep accelerating manically, 'tsssssching' everywhere, and generally being a public nusance! thats what i do, assuming the car is running properly. and for the next stoopid question....*sigh* |