| ID: 3188 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TORQUE TOP NUT Question: Hi TW, I hope you can answer this: I have Koni's on my phase 2 motor. How do I tighten the top nut up to 80 (nm) when it sits in a bloody cup??? I've been to my local Reno, and they don't give a flying f*** coz the cars 13 years old (useless bastard's). cheers (and totaly stressed), Chris Answer: a few ways you can do this is 1: get a high angle ring spanner to fit the nut and hold the shaft still with an allan key... thats the best way 2: fold a sheet of rubber or cardboard around the shaft of the shocker as high as you can and aply a set of mole grips around the card board be real carfull not to mark the shaft 3: ask a garage to do the nut up with an air gun although you wont now wot torque its set at you now its gonna be tight enough |
| ID: 3189 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost 10psi? Question: Hi wizzard,ive clio with gt turbo engine,ive bigger jets etc etc,want to turn boost to 14psi but cant seem to be able to get it above,iam sure my car has the cut mod??could you tel me what this is?as i think it could be problem?thanks! Answer: its normal to find you cant increase the boost with in car adjust type set up you get to a limit and no more wot you need to do is shorten the acctuator rod to get more boost the cup mod does away with the progresive throttle position hold on boost circuit thats wot the second pipe does if youre cup mod has been done properly you will have only one pipe going to the acctuator |
| ID: 3190 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hybrid t35 Question: hi wiz, i am looking to buy a gt turbo from a guy in wales. it has no mods except a bailey dump valve and a t35 hybrid turbo, will this cause me any probs as the rest of the engine is totally standard. if so what will need uprating Answer: a t35 eh..... so this is the hybrid off a cossie fitted to a 5? it'll be about the size of a small dinner plate, and spin up after 6k revs! i 'think' the guy means a t25...in which case it'll be fine to run as standard. having said that...i ran a t25/t3 on a complately standard car, and had a great time! didn't come on bost till 4k and revved all the way past 7k! lol- all good fun! |
| ID: 3191 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Changing Actulators Over! Question: Hi Wiz, I've just bought another T2 turbo to replace my smoking T2. Only problem with the new one is that the actulator rod-end is missing, i can't replace it with the old rod-end because the thread size is different. This means that im gonna hav to swap my new actulator for my new one. My problem is that i can only get 2 of the 3 screws out that hold the actulator to the turbo housing, the water inlet doesnt allow the screw to come fully out. Anychance you can advise me of a tool that will remove the water inlet so i can remove the screw and change the actulators over. Thanks Chris Answer: well assuming the turbo is off the car...what i tend to do, is stand on the turbo, and tap the water inlet with a large hammer...this tends to move it to one side, enuff for a small 10mm spanner to reach in there and undo the bolt. failing that you gotta get one of the housings off the turbo, and get the 19mm spanner in there and undo the union first- the attack the actuator bracket. But of course i bet the turbo is still on the car....soooo...try and tap the water feed off to one side anyway, and kinda try to follow the above advice ;-) |
| ID: 3192 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: t3 high-torque actuator Question: i have a gt tuning, t3 high-torque actuator.i want to fit it to my car but aint got a clue how to fit it.do you have any idea or know any websites on how to do this.thanks Answer: you could always try taking off your current actuator, and replace it with the t3 one!- now this seems a good idea, otherwise you just aquired the goods for no reason at all.... try unbolting the two bolts that hold the t2 actuator on, and seeing whether the holes match to the t3 bolt pattern....i bet it don't....so id get a drill and make some holes....assuming that the actuator rod is long enough, and that it has the correct adapter to join with the wategate arm! |
| ID: 3193 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cracked Liners Question: Dear Mr Wizard, How come every time i drive my car for short distances (like a 1/4 of a mile) it always seems to crack at least one liner? Is there any chance it could be related to the 38 psi the car produces for these little jaunts in the Northants countryside? Please help as it is getting quite expensive and time comsuming to keep running in new engine parts. Answer: Dear Bruce, I think the excessive boost pressures and flimsy way you have the pipes held on may have something to do with it. Also I suspect that the management of Santa Pod would bar you if you didn't blow your engine up every time you visit. My recommendation? Fix the pipes on more securely if you're going to persist in running tyre-inflater pressures through your worn carb. Maybe consider threaded connectors and pipes rather than push-on silicone ones? Wizard. |
| ID: 3194 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 5psi!!!!!!! Question: ""Decrease in boost pressure"" Ive had the car since April and it was running at close to 15psi, however over the last month or so theres been a gradual decliner in boost pressure!!!?? Its down to 5psi and v.slow with alot of lag? Been told it could be the actuator so im going to change it for a spare one I have? Other than that the dump valve seems to be a bit tempremental? could this be coz theres a leak there or coz there isn't enuf pressure running thro it? Id appreciate any help you can with this? Answer: first off all id replace all the manifold nuts that have dropped off the exhaust manifold. id say you have a large exhaust leak, that means the turbo aint spinning up quickly or with enough boost. funnily enuff this is the same symptoms as a weak actuator spring, or a dodgy wategate problem. id attack the nuts with a 13mm spanner first to see if they are loose, or missing, then go from there..... |
| ID: 3195 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lean mix Question: hello, i took my car 2 have the mixture set last week but they could make no adjustment, it was running lean about 0.15 dew 2 no restrictors in breather system, so i put the 2 restrictors in and there is still no adjustment that can be made 2 mix, i have a mini k&n on the pipe that ran 2 the U intake pipe. they have suggested removing the carb and checking the last mixture screw(which blew out) didnt break at the bottom and block the hole, is this possible or could it be anything else? i have a piston dv could it affect mix if faulty? Answer: the piston dump valve could leak vacuum from the ecu, if it leaked...so that is a possibility, as is a broken mixture screw end in the carb, as this seems to happen alot! have you checked the two one way valves on the manifold to see if they are still one way only?- and that the ball inside hasn't blocked up? |
| ID: 3196 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CAM AGAIN Question: OK! super but what is Peak timing, Lift at TDC, and I need change springs ,sorry and what that means more overlap and what big turbo is big in psi ??and how large jets until I put injection system??? Answer: ok, i reckon the peak timing is the point after TDC at which the valve has its peak lift....this is 112° on a gtturbo...although some cam's run as far down as 108°. at TDC the cam has a certain amount of lift, i.e when the piston is at the top of its stroke the valve is opening or shutting, this gives an indication of whether the cam opens quickly or slowly, or even how much overlap there is, as im sure that it gives an indication of the actual cam profile, and not just the open and close values... overlap is where the exhaust and inlet valves are open at the same time....in normally aspirated cars you need alot of overlap to fill the cylinder with petrol/air mix, because they only have the exiting exhaust gas to 'suck' fuel and air through inlet valves...this is known as scavenging...turbo cars on the other hand do not need as much overlap, else you start blowing fuel and air out through the exhaust valve too. by adjusting the peak timing you can give more or less overlap according to what you want. by a big turbo, i mean a t25/t25 or larger! - it's not just to do with how much psi it can produce, but for any given boost level, the air being compressed by the big turbo will be cooler than that from a small turbo. try a 0.9mm air corrector and a 150main jet. |
| ID: 3197 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no boost Question: hey wiz, there's a pipe going frm my carb to my perc fan , it then goes frm there to a cylindrical object bolted to my bulkhead , i'm searching for a boost leak at the mo and want to know if i can just block this pipe off at the carb and if i want to get rid of my perc fan do i just leave this pipe blocked off ? Answer: yeah, block the pipe. cuts down on potential problems |
| ID: 3198 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine oil Question: hello wizzzzz...... well its that horrable time of year again when i need to change the oil........just can't seem to remember what type i need..........is it 15/40????... thanx....oh mighty one Answer: 15 w 40 10 w 40 both are ok, semi or fully synthetic. |
| ID: 3199 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Positive Battery Cable Question: Tonight on my way home the positive power cable down to the starter motor came unclipped and it rubbed against the exhaust and shorted out. The battery was smoking - what kind of damage can I expect to have done? Answer: not alot. if you are worried, get a new +ve and -ve cable and a new battery. job done. |
| ID: 3200 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cam timing ? Question: Hello  So I have this problem  On one of my 5's it looks like I have a cam timing problem. With the engine at tdc the marks on the cam + crank sprocket align as they should do (equal slack either side of chain) - and the flywheel mark sits smack on tdc - fine - BUT the dizzy drive will not lign up. I fettled the dizzy base so that it ran, but it lacks a LOT of torque. I tried the original cam again, and still the dizzy didn't align. My guess is that the cam may be a tooth out and retarded - can you think of anything else ?Ta' Answer: ok Scoff, you brainiac!- how about this for a hypothesis.... assuming you haven't got a vernier pulley....cos if so, you'll never line the rotor arm up so it points forwards! so...you've got '+ve' and '-ve' facing each other...all woodruff keys and notches are ok on the crank and cam.... pistons 1 & 4 are at the top of the stroke (ooooeerrr!) now...here is the crunch...the notch on the flywheel isn't actually physically at tdc...it points to the 0° mark on the gearbox inspection window...correct? ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ 0° 6°7°8° or summat like that. if you are lacking torque and this is not the problem then get a compression check....cos i'll be sure that cam timing aint the problem! infact you can get the dizzy out one tooth and it won't make that much difference....as long as your spark can jump the gap ;-) basically the only way is to recheck thoroughly! |
| ID: 3202 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke from turbo Question: when driving down the motorway on full boost the car blows thick smoke out the exhaust after a while.but when it cools down its ok.doesnt blow out thick smoke when i drive it on full boost round town .does this mean the turbo is blown or is it because i have fitted a straight through exhaust??? Answer: check the shaft on the turbo by giving it a wobble..if it pulls in and out at all, it could be bollxed. if it moves up and down too much, it could be bolloxed...although id do a compression check on the engine too, to check that my rings/liners aren't too worn. |
| ID: 3204 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Garret T3 Question: Could you just give me a quick explaination of what is needed to fit a T3 to my phase 2? Also any vital engine mods that would need to be made to a standard phase 2 for using this model turbo? Cheers appreciate it! Answer: erm....well...everyone who say's they have a T3 on the website, doesn't actually have a full T3 turbo.- on a 5 GTT that is.. its more than likely going to be a T25/T3 or T25/T28 or T28/T3 or some combination of that, purely because the T3 turbo is too big for most 5's. if you did fit a T3 then you'd have to modify the manifold, as the stud pattern is bigger than the T2 one. then you'd have to fabricate a oil return feed and bolt it to the turbo...then get an adapter to mate the top oil feed to fit, then the worst bit, make an elbow to fit onto the turbo pipe/ downpipe connection. it could be done with some blanking plates perhaps....but it'd be a bit bodgy...also most T3's have the wastegate built into the elbow, so you'd have to modify that too. also it wouldn't spin up till 5k revs. |
| ID: 3205 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear brake compensator Question: Heres a quickie for ya me old wizard chum, Do you know if the rear brake compensator is a renault only part ?? Mine is leaking and reno want £100 for a new one. Would a motor factors like GSF do em or am I stuck with reno ?? Answer: certain motor factors do indeed stock them....made by bendix i do believe...approx £60 ish... also known as a brake pressure regulator...;-) |
| ID: 3206 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo Question: Hi, i had a problem with the speedo not working, so i took the sensor out of the diff, cleaned it and it worked, now its gone again, done the same as above and no joy. bought a new cable from reno put that on still not working, also changed the clocks. now i have been told that it could be the sender unit. is this a big job, and is there an easy way to do it. could it be something else?????????????????. thanks Answer: have you tried cleaning the connection situated next to the passenger side suspension tower? i assume you bought a whole new cable, both upper and lower? if it is the sender unit, then you may as well put a different box in, unless you wanna take it apart. but to be honest, its usally a dodgy connection... |
| ID: 3208 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: door pins Question: was wondering if i could knock the old door pins out with the new ones so i don't have to take the door off, or do the pins only come out one way Answer: you'll prabably end up spreading the end of the new door pin, so it'll be no good to man nor beast! you need a proper parallel punch, and probably some heat, as they can be a complete nightmare to remove! |
| ID: 3209 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Battery light Question: Every now and again my battery light comes on for a split second when i'm driving. As it does this, it seems to cut the ignition. But as it does, the battery light goes out, and the engine carry's on like nothing has happend? cheers, Chris Answer: check your main live cable. it is held against the bulkhead, then connects to the starter motor, then goes to the alternator....it may be touching the bodywork, or summat else that is earthing it out!- this can cause momentary shorting, and hence cut yer car out! - favourite place for this is the main feeds to the starter motor touching on the exhaust bracket! |
| ID: 3210 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TURBO? Question: hi! I've T3/T2 turbo and I can produce 30psi what i need to do if I want use all that power? full spec please. and how much bhp I can get with 30psi? Answer: at 30psi you should get at least 250bhp. im not going to give you a 'full spec', cos i dunno how much money you have, and i dunno whether you like to spend it or save it. the general consensus is.... more air/fuel in quickly, more exhaust gas out quicker. so.... that should tell you... cam, headwork, intercooler, large exhaust system, enlarged turbo pipe, enlarged elbow, how to sort the fuelling is another matter.... rejet standard carb.... or just buy grp 'A'.... or even a fully mappable fuel/ ignition system...if you got real money. you'll also need a new clutch, cos the uprated one most people have starts to slip at much above 230bhp. |
| ID: 3211 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No ajustable boost Question: Hi Wiz I have a 3 pin in car ajustable boost and since I've changed all the hoses including the vacume etc I can't ajust the boost at all nothing not a thing help please. All hoses are in the right way and I've tried 4mm & 6mm hose. Answer: you need a restrictor in the pipe that goes to the carb top. but first check to see that your central pipe from the bleed valve is not blocked! then suspect a very knackered actuator, or even a major boost leak. |
| ID: 3212 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idle Question: Hi Wiz my car hunts up 2 2000 rpm when its hot on idle and drops again I've cleaned out the carb etc but it idles terrible. Any Ideas Answer: clean it out again. including the idle screw, and the base of the carb. if its not that, it could be dodgy timing sensor, or even dodgy cap n rotor. hunting usually means a leak, so also check D/V diaphragm, and also the two one way valves on the back of the manifold. also worth while removing the mixture screw and checking to see that there is actually a rubber 'o' ring on it, to stop air leaking past it. |
| ID: 3213 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: steering column bearing Question: Hi wiz just a quick one Is there two steering column bearings or just one thanks in advance. Answer: there is two, lower and upper. as mentioned in haynes. |
| ID: 3214 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: OIL COOLER Question: HI WIZ I WAS JUST WONDERING IF I COULD FIT AN OIL COOLER FROM AN OTHER CAR AS IM REBUILDING MY 5 AND WANT TO FIT A NEW COPPER CORE RAD AND KEEP THE HOT OIL AWAY FROM THE WATER. CAN I JUST GET AN OIL COOLER AND SOME PIPES MADE UP OR DO I NEED A PROPPER KIT. I WANT TO KEEP THIS AS CHEEP AS I CAN BECAUSE I EARN EURO AND EVERYTHING I SEEM TO BUY FOR THE CAR IS IN POUNDS. THANKS Answer: yeah, you can fit anything you like on, as long as it fits. the only thing i will say, make sure it has a thermostat on it else it could make the oil too cool, and reduce its effectiveness in the engine. also when you route the pipes, keep them well away from the alt belt!- they do like to cut thru pipes! *lol* |
| ID: 3215 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bye Bye boost! Question: Hello there Mr Wiz, Just a quicky... I'm selling me 5 soon (to make way for another , and I need to sort out a small boost problem. It doesn't come in with it's usual kick still - it only begins to feel pokey around 4500-5000 revs. Then, on max boost (std at mo), the gauge shows the boost slightly increasing, probably by around 1 or 2 psi, as the revs increase.I've now checked all the pipework and I can't see any splits it any of the hoses - bloody induction filter makes it impossible to hear if there is a leak! The actuator has been on there since new so I guess it must be a bit worn. Think a new one would sort the problem, or could it be something else? Just wanted to check before I attempt to remove it - it looks like the nuts are a bugger to get to! Check me profile dude - don't she look nice! I'll be a sad man when she goes!! Don't mention the vent as well - I'm sick of people telling me it has no effect on cooling. OK - I didn't know at the time, but I do now...I still think it looks funky Thanks for yo help again. You ARE the man. Jon Answer: ok, you could have lost some manifold nuts, and losing exhaust thru that way. this would mean tat the turbo aint seeing as much exhaust gas as it should, and hence spin up alot slower! also check the wastegate is working properly....and that there aint a HUGE crack in the turbo! *lol* failing that i bet u got a massive air leak somewhere, perhaps the pipe that goes to the solenoid attached to the back of the bulkhead, or even the carb top/intercooler. also suspect the dodgy boost pressure sensor (over boost switch)- where it joins the pipe! hope this helps, cos u just fried my head! |
| ID: 3216 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hot Under The Collar Question: HELP HELP HELP My Phase 1 turbo seems to be running very hot. I know the weather is warm at the moment but after starting off from cold the temp gauge goes to just before 2/3 after about 3 mile, but when doing 70-80mph on the motorway the temp goes up between 2/3 and TOP. The fan comes in at 2/3 no problem. Any idea would be help full. Answer: sounds like a shite rad. how old is it? is you thermostat working correctly?- take it out and check to see if it opens fully in a bowl of boiling water. |
| ID: 3217 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: feckin off big crack on diff housing!!! Question: wiz, I have just found a massive circular crack in the diff housing. would this have been caused by age and stress, or might there be an underlying cause? The car is still running fine, but there is a bit of a whine form the gearbox/diff ? is the diff part of the gearbox casting or do i buy one separately? cheers mate! Answer: underlying cause: giving yer car to much grief you nutter *lol* i think it is part of the gearbox casing, so you would have to remove it and take it apart.....nice job ;-) unless you wanna try and bodge it....make sure its clean and oil free and try leak fix, or chemical metal... .the whine could be lack of gear oil, or..... a fecked box! |
| ID: 3218 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clear Fog Lamps 4 Phase 1 Question: Do you know any one that sells either clear or the standard yellow front fog lamps for a Phase 1 GT Turbo. Many thanks for any help. Answer: German Swedish French Carparts/ Euro Car Parts...both probably sell em. failing that you do know that some Pug 106's also have similar lights, or is it 205's?...hmmmm ;-) |
| ID: 3219 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Garret T3 part2 Question: Its a T3/T28 does that make more sense! What sort of moods am I gunner need to fit and run this on a standard r5 turbo? Cheers Answer: just bolt the fecker on. the only thing you will probably have problems with is the oil feed not fitting...you'll have to get a new oil feed pipe and adapter. |
| ID: 3220 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Sensor Question: I have recently noticed that my car when driving used to read between 1 and 4 bar when driving but all sudden it constantly reads six.Is this a major problem and what would cause this to do it.Do i need to worry as I seem to have a grating noise coming from the engine sincve the problem with the sensor occurred.Thanks Answer: sounds a bit dodgy to me....grating from the engine...increased pressure...perhaps part of the oil way circuit has become blocked. if you drain the oil, check to see if there are any metal bits in it! then i probably would take the sump off and have a good look at the crank......but thats just me, cos im a nutter :-P |