| ID: 3158 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Overheating Question: Hi wiz, got a bit of a strange problem. It started off when my rad was leaking,the temp guage on the dash was rising to 2/3 within a few minutes of the engine running, the fan isn't cutting in automatically either.So i sorted the rad with some epoxy putty, or so i thought. I have no leak from the rad, but still the same problem of over heating, having the fan running, revs, speed or boost doesn't seem to affect it. The only thing that does is if i turn left, the temp goes down, if i turn right or go straight it keeps on creeping up? So i flushed the rad and bled the coolant system, still no joy. Could it be the water pump? Answer: check the hose to the back of the manifold, and it's connection to the water pump, next to the temp sender! they always break there! when they do, they leak water, the temp gauge rises loads, yet the rad fan dont cut in..... i bet this is your problem....jubilee clip cuts into rubber and bingo..:-( |
| ID: 3159 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Gauge Question: hey wiz, ive just installed another boost gauge, but it doesnt read negative when the engine is at idle. it increases as the turbo spins perfectly and returns to 0 is it a leak or could it b t car? Answer: depends where you connected it to!!! you should have connected it to the ecu / dumpvalve vacuum pipe.!! if it aint reading negative, then the dump valve diaphragm is split, or your ecu is fecked. -or you got a split pipe ;-) |
| ID: 3160 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: battery light Question: i recently had probs with my car when an earth lead broke . The engine would keep running when i turned the ignition off . i bojjed the lead and the battery light stayed on all the time . Then the lead broke again and the light went out . I put a new earth wire in and the light doesn't work at all now . I've checked the bulb and it seems fine . I had the alternator checked too and was told there wasn't enough power going to the battery . Please help! Thanx Answer: if you still got the brown plug on the back of the alternator with the yellow and purple small wires going to it replace the block and connectors take note of the size of the terminals the yellow is of a smaller size |
| ID: 3161 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wheels Question: thinking about painting my wheels black but unsure which paint to use so it will last ? any ideas Answer: well.....the trick is to laquer them after you painted them! then it doesn't matter what paint you use!- whether its 2-pack body stuff or general car paint from halfrauds! failing that, just reach for the hammerite.....always good ;-) |
| ID: 3162 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost guage Question: hi, i still can not get the boost guage to work i have checked at the ecu and the little plastic 'L' joint and all is ok but at the back of the dash there is no suction in the pipe connecting to the back of the guage so can you please give me more sudgestions on how to fix this problem Answer: erm, well....the pipe at the back of dash doesnt have a vac feed to it! cos it connects to the top of the carb top. there is no vac there. i think you are probably connecting it up wrong... is there a vac coming from the manifold? - check the ecu pipe... the 'after market' boost gauge as well as the dump valve should be 't' d off this pipe! |
| ID: 3163 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Please not the head hasket!!! Question: Hello there, I seem to have what only can be described as a cappacino like substance in my expansion tank.Apparently this could be a buggered rad, telling me the cooling needs to flushed and re-filled or the dreaded head gasket? Any ideas in doing the investigation in a logical order so I don't repeat any procedures? Answer: take the expansion tank bottle cap off. start the car. if the water comes bubbling over the top and out of the tank, then you've fecked the Head gasket. check to see if there is mayo on the oil filler cap, and in the top of the oil seperator unit! if its non of these, then suspect the rad. btw: if you've used one of those rad weld, type products, this can also produce creamy s*** in the expansion bottle..... |
| ID: 3164 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke that turbo! Question: Alright wizard, Ere's a weird one for ya. My car runs fine when driving(eg no smoke) but when i stop/idling and the radiator fan comes on it smokes big grey clouds (not good at traffic lights!!) im thinkin its the turbo seals but i just wanted to know your opinion! Is it time to bin my standard T2 and get that T25 Im after??? Much Appreciated! Answer: ok, it could well be the turbo oil seals, esp as when the fan comes on the oil is at it's thinnest....hence leaking thru the seals. although the fan could also be blowing oil backwards onto the manifold/ exhaust....but i think its unlikely. |
| ID: 3165 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oilfeed difference Question: hi, i have recently changed my turbo and for some reason it has got a different sized threaded hole where the oilfeed pipe goes, i was told that it was a phase 2 turbo and i would need the phase 2 oilfeed pipe and i have just broughtone and it is exactly the same as the pipe i currently have (phase 1 i believe). i have tried all local hydrualic,phenimatic and car pipe specialists to try and get one but no one has that size connection, have i been sold a turbo off a different car or is there a difference in the oil feed on ph1&2 gt turbos, please help as i have just bodged it for know and i wanna get it sorted properly, thanx andy also i believe the old smoke has burnt off the exaust from the previous blown oil seals but it still smokes when i lift off the accelerator, is this (second hand replacement) turbo fuked aswell or is it just the last bits of oil burning off. (why does this s*** keep happening to me i must be cursed. :-() cheers Answer: sounds like the second hand one is fecked too. id seriously start looking at the oil pump, or the one way valve in the oil feed pipe, as your root cause of probs! the ph 1 and ph 2 oil feeds are different! you might have to get one from a tuner....:-S |
| ID: 3166 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cylinder Head Skimming Question: What is the absolute maximum that the cylinder head can be skimmed to? :-( mines almost wafer thin already :-) Answer: no idea matey, ive ran a 72.5mm head for a year with minimal problems. it depends on what boost you wanna run, and whether you are gonna retard the ignition, or run water injection, both stop detonation probs.... everyone has their own idea of min head depth!!! |
| ID: 3167 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Reverse Gear Question: Wiz, I'm after your advice. I've had a look thru the other ""Transmission"" questions and none are the same as mine. Went to select reverse gear in the car and the little reverse knob thingy was all loose, so I looked under the gearbox leather and could see that the cable for reverse has snapped. Is it a difficult job to change this and can I get hold of cables easily??? Thanks Tud. Answer: hmmmm, i bet its a renault only job to get the cable!- ive never EVER seen one snap *lol* if you are real unlucky you may have to get a new gearlever from someone as a whole unit..... now thats a fun job! *lol* |
| ID: 3168 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: In Car Boost Question: Hi wiz with my gearbox worriesjust about over I was playing with my in car bleed valve cuz i have always thought it was plummed in wrong i followed an article i found here in the library section the valve has 2 ports on either side and one in the middle with a hose going off it into the bay and then the one on the left if you wer looking out of the car is connected to the actuator port nearest the fron of the car and the other port is connected to the elbow on top of the carb and it says to cut the other actuator pipe that is nearest the bulk head and block it off is this correct cuz now with the valve closed i get 5 psi and wi about 5 turns i get 10 psi whats wrong with the plumbing. cheers Keith Answer: ok, little tip here... unblock the second actuator port closest to the bulkhead. then the bleed valve pipe connected to the carb top...remove that, and put it on the carb top port, closest to the bulkhead!!!! this should sort your probs out! |
| ID: 3169 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: OIL CHANGE? Question: Hi wiz... doing an oil change, is there anything special i need to do or is it just the plain & simple sump plug off, filter off, filter on , oil in? Answer: simple as that my friend. have a GREAT time taking the oil filter off. also worth while taking the king lead off the dizzy, and turning the car over with the starter, to get the oil pumped up to the turbo! jobs a good'un! |
| ID: 3170 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear axle nuts Question: Hi Wiz, I'm about to start re-shelling my five; I want to replace the back axle as it's already been lowered and will save doing this again. I'd like to know if the nuts retaining the axle are re-useable (they've only been on there a year) or whether I'll need new ones. If this is the case, do you have a part number at all? Many thanks, Will  Answer: being a billy bodger, id probably re-use them. but i bet if you REALLY wanted to change them, then your local fastener place, would get a suitable replacement, for a couple of quid, especially if you brought the original one along to show them! my renault part number for this is: 77 00 11 ££ $$ dollar dollar! if u catch my drift! |
| ID: 3171 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Please not the head gasket!!!!!pt 2 Question: Thanks for the help on pt 1.when I opened the expansion tank to see if the susbstane would leak over to my surprise it was clear water again.I have just recently fixed my leaky boost problem, could the boost pressure escaping cause the water in the expansion tank to become frothy and bubbly? Answer: no. the more likely explaination is that: a) you haven't bled the water system properly, and the water pump is making bubbles in your water. b) you've got a leak, thats causing air to get in the system, and then cause the water pump to make bubbles in the water. c) you aren't running a thermostat, and this is causing the water pump to make bubbles in the water.... or it could be that yer turbo is fecked....and ""is causing bubbles in the water""! |
| ID: 3172 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: electronic boost control Question: can i fit elrctronic boost control instead of having the normal manual one Answer: yes. can make them out of AMAL valves, from R21 Turbo or Ford Escort RS Turbo. failing that, you can let some japanese dude, bend you over and drain all yer pockets of dough, whilst waving a trick looking electronic boost controller infront of you, and generally have his wicked way with ya! |
| ID: 3173 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoke and 1.7 Question: just rebuilt engine and the cranks f***ed and knocked the big ends out so putting another block in. when the car was running it used to smoke loads when i first started it up but then it would clear do you no what this would be ? i replaced all the rings and stem seals ? is there anywhere that shows you whats involved in putting a 1.7 turbo engine in and is it worth it cheers m8 Answer: the 1.7 swap aint worth it. try talking to 480 turbo owners, and you'll soon see the nightmares they go thru to get power... smoke on start up, is usually valve stem seals. although i have seen turbo's do it too. |
| ID: 3174 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GEAR BOX? Question: hallo! from what car I can use gear box i want to have more acceleration? Answer: Renault 11 turbo. Renault 9 turbo, very early Renault 5 GT Turbo ph1. someone mentioned the kangoo 1.9td box too.- how true it is is anyones guess. |
| ID: 3175 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Shocker top Question: Hi Wiz, I have recently been getting alot of banging and knocking at the drivers side rear end of my car. I jacked it up high enough to see and when i wobble the wheel the rear shocker moves at the top where it is bolted. What is in there is it a bush or a bearing i.e what do i need to buy and what are they like to fit? thanks in advance Answer: first check to see if the nut and bolt either side of the body is loose! i loosened mine off a fraction once, and it knocked and banged like a Dutch brothel. im not sure whether there is a bush in the top of the damper unit, but i bet it'd be more worthwhile to buy a whole new unit! |
| ID: 3176 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shocker top Question: Thanks for your advice on the question i asked it was the bolt that had come loose my car is no longer the stereotypical french rattler cheers! Answer: well, thanks, for letting us know, feedback is always appreciated. At least the crew who make up the wizard team, get things right occasionally *lol*.... |
| ID: 3177 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: electric boost Question: thanks for your reply about the electronic boost but what the hell is an AMAL valve and wot is involved cheers mate Answer: an AMAL valve, is an electronically operated solenoid, which is either open (letting boost through) or shut (not letting boost through).. |
| ID: 3178 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: My Car Eats Brake pads!!! Question: Mr.Wizard I have had to replace my front pads today but they've only been on the car 2 months! The drivers side pads had worn down to the rivets on both sides and the passenger side pad had loads left on them!!! The car has just flew thru it's MOT and the brakes showed as being mint!! The car doesn't pull to any side when brakin' and i'm not losing any brake fluid! any ideas? Answer: could be a temporary sticking piston in the caliper. or the brake pipe has suddenly developed a leak, and has let air into that side of the brake circuit. mint brakes or not, one side is DEFINATELY applying more pressure that the other.... |
| ID: 3179 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: compression down Question: hi wiz, i did a compression check on my car the other day and i got reading of cylinder 1 = 11bar, 2 = 7bar, 3 = 7bar, 4 = 11bar, i know that this is way off and it looks like something is seriously wrong but the car seems to run ok no miss fires etc, the only thing is it is smoking slightly but i think this is turbo related prob (only on overrun), my mate rekons its a dodgy reading and that the car wouldnt even run with that compression but i re did it and its still the same, what is causing this, please help as my car is doing my head in problem after problem after problem, cheers andy Answer: smoking on overrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrun, could be caused by turbo, but also from fecked liners/ rings in the middle two cylinders.....as on overrrrrrrrrrrrrrrun the vacuum of the engine is greatest....just right for sucking oil up from the sump..... try dribbling a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder, and then compression checking it...if it still shite then it 'could' be the valves not seating properly... if it 'cures' it then its definately the rings/liners, that are bolloxed. either way, you are looking at head off! |
| ID: 3180 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: mass white smoke Question: why me? ive had a new rebuild to my engine andnow i have mass white smoke help ps its not the head weve just changed that Answer: ben, its obvious that you live in a nice part of town, have masses of fit women beating down your door, are hung like a donkey, and have recently got a VERY well paid job....so these problems you have are purely natures way of correcting this imbalance in fortune... you own a 5, it'll suck you dry and make you cry....bit like a high maintenance girlfriend. try the turbo, if not then its a liner, or cracked waterway in the head. failing that its an incorrectly fitted head gasket. |
| ID: 3181 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: more boost Question: Hi Wiz, ive recently put a hybrid on the car and i have an incar bleed valve with the actuator pipes going to each side of it in the cup set off but with the knob turned all the way out i can only bleed off 14psi and i would like 20psi how can i increase the bleed off pressure without increasing my minimum boost??? i realise you can put a restrictor on the pipe but where abouts is best and will it make alot of difference? Answer: yes it makes a manure heap load of difference... try swapping the carb top port connection, with the one with the little metal tube inside it...the one on the carb top closest to the bulkhead....this should be ok then. |
| ID: 3182 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine gets to hot Question: i have had a bigger turbo fitted to my renault 5, driving down the motorway at 60mph the temmperature gauge sits at three quarters. have you any suggestions on how to keep the engine cooler? Answer: buy a new rad. get a new thermostat. purchase a new rad fan switch! ta-da problemo solvio! |
| ID: 3183 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fan Switch Question: Hi Wiz, I'm sure you've heard this question like a thousand times but I've looked thru the archives and they don't really answer my question! My fan suddenly stopped working so I thought it must be the fan switch. I bought a new low temp fan switch and thermostat from BB and tested the old switch last night by bridging the 2 from the alternator. The fan came on which would suggest a faulty switch. But when I fitted the new switch and bled the coolant system the fan still didn't cut in. Could it be the relay even tho it worked when I brdged it? Any suggestions would be great cos I want it ready for Pod on saturday!! Cheers Answer: could be a dogey wire or conection and as you move the wires it makes the bad connection good.. the new fan switch could be faulty test it by dropping it into bolling water with it connected to a multi meter it should switch to 0 ohms when it getts hot enough and go back to infinity when it cools off.. ps... rent boy |
| ID: 3184 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering Question: hay wiz,ive got 15 ins on my five,is lowering it 50mm going to be to low?would it be better going for 40mm? cheers. Answer: 4omm is best all round as you still get shocker action on the rear 50mm could be to low it might sit on its bump stops and make the ride realy hard |
| ID: 3185 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: funny bugger?? Question: hi wiz, i went to a scrap yard the other day and saw a 5 turbo,it was an F reg, the intercooler had been strapped so i had a closer look and inside the top where the hoses connect there was some plates on like springs as if they opened and closed slightly,i dont think mine has those in ,does it? my car is a G reg with a standard intercooler,also,what do you do to flow the intercooler?? thanks, stef Answer: The plates and springs you refer to are the thermostat mechanism. As standard, the flap moves such that the air bypasses the intercooler core when it's cold. This helps get the engine up to a good operating temperature- at which point the flap moves back over and forces the air through the core, so it's cooled. The disadvantage of this is that the flap can push open under high boost pressures, or the mechanism can be damaged. This would leave you with no intercooling, and hence very high inlet air temperatures - which will cause detonation and eventually engine damage. So to 'flow' the intercooler, you simply remove the top, and glue/bolt the flap so it can't move and let the air bypass the core. Wizard |
| ID: 3186 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CAM!!!???!! Question: Hi ! what do you think about cam 276 time and 9,9 lift from dbilas.com ?? and what is pink time ?? can you teake a look at thease site? I want make 250-300 bhp Answer: funnily enough, my own cam is VERY VERY similar to this. except i think i have more overlap. with a big turbo, you should see 230+ bhp with this cam. |
| ID: 3187 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: slapping noise in 4th Question: ello wizza just had to change the fuel pump as there was shite in it, but whats concerning me now is this weird slap/ tap, metalicy sound coming from the drivers side of the engine bay. Usually when boosting in fourth, when the boost gauge is above 3/4. its getting noiser as well Any ideas pal Answer: ok, so in 4th gear the engine drives the wheels with a ratio of 1:1..approx. so it could be stresses on the driveshaft or wheel bearing....maybe the top strut mounting has broken internally, or just squashed the rubber doughnut. or just summat thats loose and now banging away.... what have you touched recently in the engine bay? |