| ID: 3128 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb set-up?? Question: Hi Wiz, I have - among other mods - a T25 and a Pace chargecooler; I'd like to run about 22-24Psi (@carb. elbow). What modifications to the caurburettor would you recommend? What sort of power (ish) is this likely to produce? Seeing as the inlet manifold is off, is it worth my while giving it a polish? Many thanks, Will Answer: polishing the manifold aint gonna do diddly squat, unless its in conjunction with other head work and flow work....so i wouldnt waste precious drinking time on it ;-) you could buy a grp A one from a tuner....or you could stick a 150 main jet in and a 100/90 air corrector and kiss your fuel goodbye! power could be around 170-190 bhp, depending what else you got done to it. |
| ID: 3129 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gt turbo exhaust Question: will a gt turbo back box (like a big bore 4) fit on a 1.1 (sadly what mine is) Answer: no, cos the diameter of your exhaust pipe is smaller than that of the gt turbo exhaust pipe. only way round it is to weld one on....unless you get an adapter pipe! |
| ID: 3130 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re .blitz duel drive dump valve Question: when you say next to the turbo did you mean on the pipe from the turbo too the intercooler.thanks Answer: yeah, i did. ;-) |
| ID: 3131 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PSI Question: yo wizz...... i just got my boost gauge correctly fitted ( so it has a vaccum reading) when i bought it.........i tried it out on the A38 the other day because i always wondered what psi it was running at..........when i did this i got a reading of 18psi.........im just wondering at 18psi what do you guess the BHP to be????? Answer: it depends on what you've had done to the car...cam , turbo etc etc. could be between 150-180bhp at a guess. |
| ID: 3132 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Spark Question: Last week number 4 spark plug decided that it has spent enough time in the head and made a bid for freedom. It stripped the threads and blew its self straight out of the head. Any ideas why this would happen? Answer: could be that the thread was weakened either through cross threading at some point in its life, or that the threads had corroded and gone brittle... either way...you'll have to get it helicoiled, to save the head. |
| ID: 3133 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: BLUE SMOKE Question: my car smokes(blue)bad. apart from the turbo what else can cause this? i changed the turbo the other day and it still smokes, i flowed and strapped and cleaned out my I.C, boost pipes and breather pipes. how long does the oil take to burn off the exaust from the old turbo as it has been ticking over for about half an hour and its just as bad. ive been told it sounds like valve stem oil seals but ive also been told that a ph 1 doesnt have them? help please as if my replacement turbo is stuffed im gonna go mental. thanx andy Answer: ok....firstly put an oil breather pot on the pipe that goes into the U bend pipe that goes into the turbo...this stops oil vapour being blown back into the turbo from the engine. oil takes fecking ages to burn off from an exhaust. check the compression of the engine, it maybe just worn enough to blow smoke...think E reg nissan micras and F reg Ford sierra's ;-) all smoky beasts! valve stem oil seals only really smoke at first start up. and ph1's didnt have them either!!! check the turbo spindle's in and out movement...any, even a little bit tends to indicate shafted oil seals. |
| ID: 3134 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: not boosting hard Question: hello mate im running a stage 3 t25 hybrid and boosting 22psi the problem is im getting the psi but it only creeps up and doesnt kick in hard. this is a problem as i couldnt beet a pug 1.9 the outher day. how embarasing that was !!! Answer: could be a weak actuator, or even the way you've got the piping to your bleed valve set up!!! probably the best way is to copy someone elses set up.....needless to say i can't really explain on here! |
| ID: 3135 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PUZZELED? Question: Hi, My car keeps conking out, because something is stoping the fuel pump from pumping. When it does run, it runs very good indeed. I thought the fuel pump relay was situated on the right hand side of the fuse box, but when the car is running I have pulled out all 8 fuses from that area, but the car still keeps running? I have however found a relay by the bonnet lock/ecu area, and when this one is pulled out the fuel pump stops. I have noticed that when the car won't start, the rev counter needle doesn't sit back down to zero? The only relay according to my proper Renault Super Coupe Cup workshop manual that has the same colour (speedo/fuel pump) wires going to it is, the long black one with the white writing on it. This is situated way above the fuse box (and gets warm). Can you help? Can you tell me how to test the 6 pin relays? coz I've got loads of spares for around the fuse box. Also, I can get the side-lights on when the engine is running, but not when its stopped? This seems to happen when I can't get the car to start? If I remove the salmon pink relay from the left hand side of the fuse box, with the engine running, I lose the side-lights. But still can't get them when the engines switched off? Is this problem related? I have gone around the whole car cleaning all the earth conections up, to the point that there shiny! I am getting totally f***ing demented! My head is full of ??????????????????????????????????? cheers, Chris (r5totallydementednutta) Answer: the relay by the bonnet lock is the ignition unit relay. pulling this cuts the spark and kills the engine. to get to the relays, you need to remove the whole lower cowling by the passenger footwell, courtesy of two screws... and there you'll find approx 4 relay stuck to a board, with the fuel pump relay hanging off the top right of the board. then let me know what happens:-) |
| ID: 3136 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cup mod 2 Question: ive got the cup mod on my 5 gt..but with in car boost control off only getting 6psi had the acuator arm shortened to compensate the cup mod made about 2psi better with boost turned off but when i turn the boost control up only get 15psi ...it doesnt matter how much i turn it up i only get 15 psi ...max...if i shorten the acuator more will it do any damage or can you suggest a solulion to get more boost ie.20psi...thanks juggy Answer: make sure that the pipe that connects to the carb top, is on the carb top port closest to the passenger compartment!!!- this has a restrictor in it, and hence allows you to control the pressure to the actuator more effectively....less flow etc etc etc! this should work like a charm! |
| ID: 3137 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: what sealent can i use Question: Hi wizard , is it ok to use exhaust paste to seal my turbo i need to completely remove it and wonderd what to seal it with when i replace it ? i know you can buy gaskets but it will have to come off again in a few weeks so can i just use exhaust paste or gasket sealent for now ? Answer: gasket sealant will fry! exhaust paste is useable, but it invalidates you turbo warranty! ""if"" you were to use it, only smear on the last 1cm of the join, around the perimeter, and then make sure it's really thinly applied!- cos when you tighten them up, the paste spreads alot! - and you wouldnt want it going into your blades and fecking your turbo up. |
| ID: 3138 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: torsion bars removal Question: I AM TRYING TO ADJUST REAR TORSION BARS. USING 10 MM BOLT LEFT ONE MOVED QUITE EASILY. THOUGHT I WOULD CHECK IF RIGHT ONE WAS FREE BEFORE REMOVING THEM,ONLY TO FIND A SHEERED OFF BOLT ALREADY IN RIGHT TORSION BAR.I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO REMOVE REMAINS OF THIS BOLT. SO IF I REMOVE THE LEFT ONE IS IT THEN POSSIBLE TO HAMMER THE RIGHT ONE OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR. OR HAVE YOU ANY OTHER GOOD SUGGESTIONS.CHEERS DAN Answer: ermm, removal of torsion bar, by any means necessary...ive got tales of nightmare scenarios with these !!! heat, WD40....what ever method you can use!- just try it! im basically flapping here.... cos other than hard graft there is no easy answer....:-( |
| ID: 3139 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bodykit Question: Hi there, its Ben again, the one with the Campus Prima wishing to fit a Phase 2 bodykit. I have acquired the bodykit, now I am unsure as to hot to fit it! I am going to start by taking off those bumper panels that are around the doors. Im guessing that I need to drill holes in the body of the car to allow clips to be fitted to hold the bodykit. But are clips expensive? And how are they held on? By pop rivets? Please help! Ben Answer: well, well, well....well, well, well! i know for a fact that some bodyshops, aren't too bothered about reclipping the kit back on, once they've painted the car....so what they do it sikaflex the kit onto the body......basically they use the black silicone sealant that they use to put sunroofs in with! the side pieces of the body kit, do need screwing / pop riveting onto the 'rail' that pokes out from the bottom of the sill, though. |
| ID: 3140 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gear box Question: Hi Wiz, I have recently fitted a second hand gear box to my 5 and i am having trouble getting all the gears one after another they are all there cuz 1 have had either 1 2 3 and no 4 5 or the opposite took it the garage and they said the selector was stuffed so i got a new box, so the point i was making is can you swap the selectors wih out taking the box out Cheers, keith Answer: i think you have to take the box out to change the gearbox internals... cos underneath the black end cap is the 5th gear, and thats it. |
| ID: 3141 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: actuator ???? Question: HI , I have recently had a few probs wiv the adjustment of my actuator arm and ended up snapping it , i have managed to repair it ,but a couple of days later i have started loosing boost, now when the turbo kicks hard i can hear a louder suction noise and i am getting less boost , if i fecked the spring in the actuator cud this cause it ? Answer: yeah, this could cause it, but you could of fecked the diaphragm in it too! |
| ID: 3142 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ngk? Question: what is NGK red spark plugs catalogue number? not b8ev but some better for 24psi ? Answer: there are 3 types of NGK that i've used. B8EVX B8EG B9EG the B9's are the colder plug out of them all, so are allegedly better if you are racing the car around all the time! |
| ID: 3143 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Blown head gaskets or split liner? Question: Hi, about two weeks ago my head gasket went, the head was tested and skimmed and the rebuild was done with up rated gaskets, this weekend it went for a rolling road session and it was fine the guy that did it has had 5's for nine years and he could'nt fine any major probs, but later that day either the gasket or one of the liners went big style after killing a saxo vtr (lol) and i wanted to know what might have caused it? Thanks mate Answer: the problem is that the Rolling road never puts quite as much strain on the engine, as actual 'road- time' does. did the rolling road tester give the car quite as much abuse as you did on the road?- i bet he had a nice cooling fan right on the intercooler and rad...- you weren't racing on a hot day were you? it's probably gonna be the head gasket to be honest... the simple answer to your question after all that is: BOOST, too much of it! ;-) |
| ID: 3144 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: acc cable Question: My mate owns a Phase 1 and its recently been vandalised. All the mountings, springs and cable are buggered!! I was going to start re-building it based on my Phase 2 but its different. We are struggling to get parts for a Phase 1, so would we be able to get parts for a Phase 2 and build it based on my own?? Answer: what EXACTLY has been buggered? i've owned a ph1 and ph2 and can scarily enuff tell you most things that are available off the top of my head. remember the ph1 is more like 'normal' non turbo 5's.... you can swap it to a ph2 set up if ya want to tho!- provided you know what you are doing! |
| ID: 3145 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: OILY INTERCOOLER Question: Dear Wiz When I give the car a good hard drive to rev limit of +/- 6k rpm, oil collects on the outside of the base of the IC, but there's no obvious leak on the engine or turbo pipes. Occasionally, it also gathers around the carb. When perc fan cuts in, it blows oily air on carb. But normal driving, i.e. up to about 4-5k rpm - there's no problem. Have I got bad, expensive news coming? Answer: hmmm, poppy, i could write a full 'editorial report' on the amount of problems i think it might be ;-) u have at least two seperate problems here. oil round the bottom of carb, is basically from the rocker cover. you either need a new seal or your rocker bolts are loose. that is assuming it is oil, and not the oily reside left over from fuel dripping from the carb, onto that plate that sits over the inlet manifold... oil round the bottom of the intercooler, can be a leak, especially if you have the standard unit and a knackered turbo! it could also be oil spraying from the oil cooler connection pipes which are right next to the intercooler.....unlikely, but it could be! there is a simple solution, dont rev the car too much! |
| ID: 3146 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: KNACKERED DRIVE SHAFT? Question: Dear Wiz again, When pulling away, you hear a mechanical sound, sharp, as if the engine/gearbox was rocking on its mountings. But I've checked all the mountings, and they're firm. You only seem to hear it when pulling away from rest. Is that what a knackered drive shaft sounds like? It appears to be from nearside frnt wheel. Answer: a knackered driveshaft clonks constantly. esp on corners! id put money on it being the shock.- basically the rubber mounting is fecked, or the metal 'top hat' in the shock top is shattered! if it isnt that then it could be: 1)very knackered bottom ball joint. 2)totally buggered wishbone bush. 3)terminally ill front ball and socket 'torsion damper' - rubber could of fallen off. 4)its still a knackered engine mount....try jacking the car up from the sump...u can usually tell then, if the rubber has parted comnpany from the metal! hope this helps ps: call yer local GSF branch for more help - that'd be castle bromwich, nr the Fort :-P |
| ID: 3147 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dash lights Question: Hi, hope u can shed some light........all the gauges r working and the battery and handbrake light r working, but not the oil - water - etc, undone the main block connector sprayed it with elec cleaner checked lead coming from the starter still no lights, any BRIGHT ideas, please thanks ........steve Answer: take the clocks out and check to see if that part of the board is getting power. if it aint you might have to start tracing stuff back through the bulkhead....:-( rather you than me mate...i HATE electrics! :-S |
| ID: 3148 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pistons???? Question: Hi! from what company can I buy forged pstons fot r5 gtt? when I want make 350bhp I need it? I have one piston damage and I want to buy all 4 new Answer: have you tried, some of the drag racing companies, or even searched the net for them?- i bet you haven't have you....trying to get me to do all your dirty work eh? hepolite? acralite? mahle? etc etc |
| ID: 3149 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost pipe Question: my main boost hose has an outlet on it for the perc fan whats this for bb reckon they leak i have another hose without it on can i put that on ! Answer: yeah, they can leak, either block it, or replace it with the one that aint got the hole there.... i don't think you'll be too worried about purging the inlet charge of oily vapour on start up do you?- thats what its there for.... |
| ID: 3150 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: From what car I can use fuel pump when I want produce 35psi from turbo Answer: bmw e30 citroen BX 16v all these run at 3bar, with 120 litres an hr flow rate. or even a ford escort RS turbo, with a hose adapter! |
| ID: 3151 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pistons again Question: When I need low compresion pistons ? and where I can buy it? non UK perhaps germany? Answer: maybe even mecaparts in france... most low comp pistons ive seen are standards with the top machined off, or with a dish in them.... |
| ID: 3152 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: handbrake light Question: my handbrake light keeps coming on when i go aroung right hand corners? Its only just started doin it since i have replaced my rear drivers side caliper..is this coincidence. could you please advise as to what it may be. thanks for your help mate. Answer: sounds like the switch on the handbrake is abit dodgy....its a single wire connection, at the very base of the handbrake lever....i had to slit the carpet slightly to get to it.... clean it up or replace it. the wiring goes to the drivers side and then under the plastic piece along the right hand inner sill.... check to see its not earthing there or summat too.. |
| ID: 3153 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: loss of boost !!!!! Question: k , i recently asked u about an actuator because i thought this might have been the problem , i have since changed the actuator , checked all the boost hoses for leaks and found no problems with them but my car still only boosts at 0.4 bar, and the pointer on the origanal gauge doesn't even hit the T ,any idea's ,it's not smoking at all , just not boosting hard or much at all Answer: check that you havent got a manifold leak of any kind. then check to see if the manifold to turbo connection is gas tight!- both of these will cause to turbo not to see enuff exhaust gas! the other way is a little risky..... pull off the actuator pipe....and run the car.....as soon as the boost comes on, back off else you'll blow up. this will prove that the turbo is ok, and that the actuator is working properly....it then points at the circuit that controls the actuator.... |
| ID: 3154 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: loss of boost prt 2 Question: sorry wiz but i forgot to mention my actuator arm is wound as far in as it can go towards the actuator itself , so the flap in the wastegate is shut tight , is this right ? Answer: yes sounds good. |
| ID: 3155 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: soft pedal Question: hi wiz, iv gotta problem, here goes..... after recently having my car m.o.t'd and having the front brake pads changed, i got the car back, and after driving for less than an hour i lost all power from the brakes. iv taken the car back to them 3 times during that time they have bled the system twice, and fitted a new master cylinder. it seems after driving under average conditions air gets in the system somehow. the pedal touches the floor and am left with....not alot of breaking power. the garage reckon other than the master cylinder, there is no other reason for it to let air in to the system. any ideas? cheers, dave Answer: erm, gee let me think.... ok the car is how old? - perhaps in all that time, the brake pipes are absolutely mint, and never once even thought about corroding.... they are all shiny and green like a leprecheuns knob... well, i somehow doubt that....as mine are corroded to feck, and i bet yours are too. check all the pipes, starting at the master cylinder, paying close attention to where they pass through inner wing...- have they rubbed? then trace it back to the rear trailing arm, and have a good look at the brake compensator...a favourite place for leakage!- yes indeeeeed! im tired, im off to bed, let me know, hope it helps, good evening and good night. yada yada, etc etc ;-) |
| ID: 3156 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wheels for Campus Prima Question: Me again, just wondering whether or not 15"" wheels will fit on my Campus without any arch work, as I assumed they would as they fit on a turbo, but I phoned a wheel specialist who says that the biggest I can go without work is 14"". What would I do without you Mr Wizard?! Thanks for all your help of late! Ben Answer: i reckon they'll fit straight on. you may need a wheel spacer at the front so it doesnt rub on the inner wing. also go for 195/45 r 15 tyres....these help ;-) |
| ID: 3157 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Temp light flickering Question: My temp light flickers on and off and sometimes stays on for a bit, although the temperature is not particularly hot. Any ideas wot this could be? I think it may be an electrical problem, maybe it is earthing out, but not sure where? Thanks Brody Answer: the temp sender is located on the water pump... the wiring always goes a bit funny.... at the opposite end of the water pump drive wheel, pull off the brown plastic clip....unclip the wiring, and carefully inspect.. if in doubt, chop the wires, but on spade connectors, then put back on... REMEMBER WHICH WAY ROUND YOU PUT THEM....otherwise the renault self destruct mechanism is activated! -or more likely the temp gauge won't work, so just swap them back round... |