| ID: 1382 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine conversion... Question: hi wizard....I was offered MOT-failure Volvo 440 turbo with perfect sounding 1.7 turbo engine...same block as R19 I believe?......am gonna use that engine on my R5gtt.....which parts should I use? eg......driftshafts....wiring looms......plumbings......gearbox/clutch?? before I scrap the Volvo 440turbo? Sean Answer: You will need all engine, gearbox, driveshafts, wiring looms, ecu, fuel system etc. Basically don't bin anything that is engine related until the project is done. |
| ID: 1383 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Can Question: Hi wiz I've got a problem with my gearbox the story goes like this, I reversed my car off the drive and then tried to put it in to a forward gear and it just wouldn't go in , there was no cloncks or prangs or bangs and i now still can't get it in to gear ,eccept 5th all other gears I just can't get in, Ive had a look underneith and can't see anything fouling anything. What do you think it could be thanx Dan Answer: I would check that the linkage hasn't come undone and moved along the shaft. Also check the clutch is moving properly when the pedal is depressed. |
| ID: 1384 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fog lights Question: my fog ligts both front and back have stopped working,when i press the switch the light on the dash lights up but no fog lights??? Answer: The front and rear fogs are on seperate switches but i think they may run through the same fuse. Try checking the fuses first and get back to me. |
| ID: 1385 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shit mix !!!!!! Question: Mr. wiz please help. After taking my 5 for its mot 2 months ago n bein told that the co was too high, the carb was re-set up. It drove ok unless i accelerate over 3000rpm or more n level out at any more than 50mph n stay at a constant speed. I've had the mixture screw adjusted afew times by the mot station but it still drives crap so i'm now adjusting it. It's gettin no better, but could it be a faulty jet or somethin else not the mix.Need it sortin b4 every novaboy thinks there car is quick !!!!!! cheers Answer: The mixture screw will have no effect over idle as that is what it adjusts, idle mixture. At 300 rpm you are on main jet and compensation circuits so i would get the car rolling roaded to see exactly what is going on. |
| ID: 1386 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sooty Question: hi wiz kid, i have recently rebuilt my engine and i goes v well but what i noticed is that the vapour coming out of the exhaust is more visible and the exhaust is getting pretty sooty. i had the front up on a set of ramps and let the engine tick over (for another reason) and the road by the exhaust was fairly black with this soot. Before the rebuild i was running and setup at 14 psi but i dropped it to 10 psi till ive clocked a few miles up. Could the soot be due to the car being setup for the 14 psi boost? pls help, cheers matey Answer: I would expect that you are over fuelling due to the lower boost and it may well be fine when you turn the boost back up. |
| ID: 1387 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo timer Question: i was wonderin if turbo timers r easy to fit if you have an alarm and immobiliser?? And how much wiring is involved in them? Answer: They are not easy and best left to an auto electrician unless you are a very competant electrician yourself. |
| ID: 1388 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cup seals??? Question: wiz, i was reading the boards and someone said that when pressing the pistons back in the calipers the fluid can turn them the wrong way making it impossible to bleed the brakes, is this true as this would explain the problem i having with bleeding mine. If this has happened then flushing the system won't work then how do i fix this, if this has happened, more to the point how do i find out if this has happened, as you suggested the dirt thing, Answer: Try removing the pads and putting something thinner in there place to allow the piston to come out further, then lubricate the seals before pushing them back in again. |
| ID: 1389 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knocking at the back Question: Dear mr whizz, Have got a nasty knocking coming from the back left shock. Sorted it out before, it was the bolt that holds the top of the shock, had elongated the hole so we did a handy bit of welding. Have checked this but it is all still solid. Can you suggest anything else?Cheers for your help, Nick H. Answer: It could be the shock itself has given up the ghost if everything else is tight. |
| ID: 1390 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: How low can I go? Question: My 5 is currently running 195*45-15"" wheels and tyres at the standard ride height. I want to go as low as possible without any archwork. I never have more than 2 people in the car because I have no back seats so there is no extra weight at the rear. Which springs would you reccomend and should I go 1 or 2 clicks on the torsion bar? Cheers Ben Tustin Answer: I would say that two splines on the torsion bar would be ok but you may need to do a little arch/bumper work. -50 to -60mm springs should be sorted on the front. |
| ID: 1391 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: valve stem rubbers Question: hello again wiz...i am about to renew the valve stem rubbers and i was hoping for some pointers. Is it possable to fit these with the head on,if so what is the special tool called and do you know anywhere i can rent/purchase one? cheers pete Answer: I have made up a special tool in the past out of a ford cvh valve spring compressor as i don't think they are available to buy. Try contacting Andy at Grey Devil Industries (GDI) as i know he has also done the seals with the head on. |
| ID: 1392 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil in dump valve Question: Hi Wizard! I seem to be getting oil/petrol in my dump valve! It’s not on the boost hose side, but the other side. So I guess its coming from the little pipe that goes on the end off me dump valve! Have you got any ideas on how to solve this! many thanx andy Answer: You must have a leak in the carb or be really over fuelling to get fuel coming out of there. |
| ID: 1393 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: taking car of the road Question: i was wondering wizard if i want to take my car of the road for a few months to do some work on it, will i encounter any problems when wanting to drive it again. what i am getting at is if i leave my car at a stand still for a few months it won't perish/rust anything?? regards paranoid phil Answer: You must do a few things. 1) Declare it is off the road to the tax man and you will not get taxed for that period. (Form available from the post office) 2) Leave the handbrake off and chock the wheels if there is a chance of it rolling anywhere. 3) Jack it up and rotate the tyres every now and then to prevent any problems with them. 4) On restart after a while, make sure you prime the oil system before trying to start the car and prime the turbo before it gets turned over at all. 5) Keep it covered if outside to prevent any water ingress. |
| ID: 1394 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: New breather system. Question: Hi Wiz, I'm thinking of modifying the oil breather system & fitting an alloy oil catch tank. What's the best way of doing this? I presume I leave my alloy oil separator in place but instead of the breather pipe T'd into the manifold & air filter, feed this pipe to an oil catch tank & blank off the hole in the air filter pipe & the manifold one way valve. Is that right? If not, how would you do it? Or would you not bother at all? Oh no, now I'm really confused. Cheers Wise Wizard guy, whoever you are. Answer: You can fit a pipe from the rocker cover directly into the oil seperator and feed it back to the sump with a breather on the top of the seperator. You then have to block the manifold and air filter pipe like you said. You will need to get the idle etc set up as the mixture will be different. |
| ID: 1395 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: suspension set Question: hello wiz, iam thinking of getting an adjustable suspension set, will i have to reset the tosion bar before i fit them, or will by adjusting them it just go low anyway??? will it be easier if i get the garage to fit?? cheers wiz Answer: It is only the front struts that are height adjustable and the shocks all round. You will have to set the rear torsion bar to the required height yourself. If you are not a competant mechanic then i would leave it to the pros. |
| ID: 1396 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air pipe Question: Hi Wiz, Ok so I was looking into the engine bay yesterday when I found that the pipe from the air box to the turbo was broken. The pipe in question is the silver cardboard flexi pipe My original thought is to change it with more silver flexi hose but is there something better I can use and what does it do?? Many thanks Steve K Answer: The airbox to turbo pipe should be a rubber pipe that is also available in silicon for looks and increased life. |
| ID: 1397 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: not neck snapping Question: Hi iz, I have noticed that when i put my foot down my car boosts but it doesnt feel as quick. I have checked my boost hoses and cant find any leaks. If it is the intercooler is there a test i can do to check. (dont want to buy a new one only to find its not the cooler). Cheers Mate Steve K Answer: You could take the cooler off, fill it with water and look for leaks but it won't show up if it only opens the leak at boost. |
| ID: 1398 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re-valve stem rubbers Question: Wiz I found out today that it's a universal valve spring compresser (with head in place) available from draper tools...costs some where between £65--£100,thanks anyway. It's a standard car and will stay standard for a while so would you recommend a main dealer for the new stem rubbers or other? cheers again pete Answer: I would just go for the standard ones. |
| ID: 1399 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Volvo Question: Hello mate how are you? I have a quick one for you,can i use the t2 from a volvo on my 5, and if so how do i go about fitting it? Thanks for your help Answer: Hi hogboy, I haven't tried using that turbo on a 5 but i expect it will be very similar to fit. |
| ID: 1400 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: funny one? Question: hi there wiz ive noticed a funny noise as when the foot gets slammed and the load is high in short burst there seems to be a funny like puttering/ticking noise all most as if the dump valve is liffting?or the waste gate is fluttering and this happens at all range of psi even low as 14!but when i go fairly steady it dont do it ?can you help oh my system is set as :-hybrid 1 with single port actuator,running at 14psi,std cheap type dump valve(screw type)with uprated diaphram!thanks wiz kid! Answer: That noise you discribe could be pinking caused by under fuelling or too much ignition advance. What jets are you using? I would recommend a tune up on the rollers if possible. |
| ID: 1401 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: running in Question: I have bought a r5 gtt that has been off the road for nearly 10 years.I have been doing it up for 3 years and its will be ready for the road next month.I was just wondering if you had any tips to ensure i run it in ok, i.e how many miles should it take to run the engine in correctly. thanx. Answer: There is no set mileage for running in but i would recommend not overloading or stressing the engine with little or no boost for about 500 miles and then building the boost level up slowly over another 500-1000 miles to get a nicely sorted run in. |
| ID: 1402 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Too much boost Question: Hi My problem lies with the amount of boost i am getting, the car has an under bonnet bleed valve which i have never opened but the problem is that even with the valve closed the needle on the boost gauge goes right round to the end of the gauge and sometimes goes even further. Also there is no wires to the over boost switch, how is this happening and if you have any ideas how will i put the boost back to normal levels. Thanks for your help Adam Answer: Assuming you do not have a leak in the actuator pipe then i would say that your actuator is over adjusted. Replace the wires to the overboost switch if you do not want to blow your engine although it will backfire quite violently if it is still overboosting. |
| ID: 1403 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: mix 2 Question: Allo wiz, just read the question about a ""sooty"" exhaust and you mentioned that he may be overfueling due to the engine running on a lower boost and i've just realized that i have fitted a different carb to mine and the car it was off might have been runnin at a higher boost, therefore i'm probably over fuelling too. how can i sort this out as i don't want to turn up the boost til i know it's runnin good, thanx again. Answer: The only way to acurately check fuelling is on a rolling road. |
| ID: 1404 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel starvation Question: I race a hybrid circuit racing 5 turbo. I suffered from fuel starvation last year and I think this may have contributed to a blown engine. It occurs when I go round long/tight corners. I understand the cup cars used the auxillary fuel tank in reverse. ie a constant feed was taken from the auxillary tank rather than when it was low on fuel. My car was used in Group A rallying before I got it and they removed the auxillary tank. Do you know how to get round this problem and do you know if you can modify the inside of the fuel tank ie gaining access from the hole where the sender unit is? Craig Answer: I would say that your best bet all be it expensive it to get a custom fuel tank made in alloy with baffles inside to prevent surging as modifying the standard tank is not really an option unless you can fill it with some kind of foam. |
| ID: 1405 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: How much boost??? Question: Wizard, my five is pretty standard at the moment woth just a filter, exhaust and D/V. Ive fitted a boost gauge by tapping it of the original one in the dash. At maximum boost it reads about 0.8 bar, is this too low and how reliable is it? what is the factory level boost and how much can I turn it up without something going pop. The bloke who serviced it said it didn't feel as fast as it should be and told me to ask an expert like yourself about how much boost it can run. Cheers for the help. Ben Tustin Answer: 0.8 bar is about right but you can turn it up to 1 bar with no problems. |
| ID: 1406 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: reluctant to start Question: when my 5 has been left standing over night it is difficult to start in the morning. If i try and use the choke it wont start at all, also when it does start and i push the accelerator the engine immediatley dies. Could you give either a solution or an idea of what could be causing this? Answer: If your car is modified then i would say you are over fuelling or need more air for startup. |
| ID: 1407 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering the front Question: i am wishing to lower my car myself.i understand about the rear torsion bar but i was wondering how hard it is to do the front shocks.i am wondering if the front shocks bolt completly off so that you can change the springs easily or do you have to take lots off??ive also got 195.45.16 alloys.how low on the front should i go.and how many clicks on the rear torsion bar???? cheers keith. Answer: I would say stick to 30mm if you don't want arch problems but you can go as low as you like if willing to make mods to the arches. The whole front strut (Spring and shock) comes off together to allow you to disassemble it on the bench. |
| ID: 1408 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Irregular starting Question: Dear Whiz, I have a similair problem to Sliver who asked the question titled ""Click, click , click, go....."" but I don't have a huge stereo. I have had this problem for a while and it's getting worse. When I go to start the car the solenoid throws but then nothing. This does not always happen. When it does all I do is turn the key 3-5 times and it will eventually burst into life. There does seem to be no patterns to when this problem happens. All I have noticed is that after it has happened the car doesn't idle too well whilst cold afterwards. I have decided to fit a new battery. So do you think this will fix it? and if so what battery would you suggest and where can I get it from. I live in the south east so anywhere nearby would be good. Cheers Answer: It could be battery or it could be a dodgy starter. Go to the local motor factors and he should have a book that will tell you the standard and oversized batteries you can fit and how much they are. |
| ID: 1409 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lowering springs Question: Turbo Wiz, Thanks for your answer to my question about how low i can go, but i now have another problem. Do you know of any company that can supply me with -50mm or -60mm springs for a phase 1 GT turbo. Thanks Ben Tustin. Answer: Try any of the shops/tuners in the contact section. |
| ID: 1410 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: over heating??? Question: hi wiz while driving high speed 70 miles temp gauge goes just before the top of the gauge 30 to 40 temp is fine faster i go the hotter the gauge gets do you think it could be a faulty gauge or the thermostat? cheers mate Answer: I would suggest you flush the radiator as it may well be blocked. If it doesn't cure the problem then you may need to replace it. It could also be due to a lean mixture if you are running more than standard boost without more fuel. |
| ID: 1411 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: not running at full potential Question: thank you for your help in the past. I'm wondering if you can help me again. when i give the car a bit of welly it holds back for a while then goes mad and flies off, it's not like a lag holding back, it really dies but the turbo gauge goes off the clock and sometimes the car makes a couple of loud splutter pops before it shoots off, i'm running a standard turbo with uprated induction and intercooler and dump valve. could it be on the fuel side? thanks Answer: It could be a blocked or faulty carb, mainly the accelerator pump. If the boost is going off the gauge then it could be an actuator problem and the overboost switch cutting the ignition. |