| ID: 602 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: coilovers Question: I;VE ALL READY TOLD YOU THE OFFSET OF MY WHEELS IS 46 FOR MY 17s YOU SAID THAT IT WAS A BIT TO MUCH AND SPACERS WOULD SOLVE THIS. IS THIS SAVE TO DO AS I WOULD HAVE TO BRING THE WHEEL OUT 10mm AT LEAST.I HAVE THE FINANCES TO GO FOR COILOVERS WOULD THIS ELIMINATE THE PROBLEM. Answer: I cannot guarentee that coilovers will cure the rubbing, but they are going to reduce the size of the spacer needed if they don't! 10mm spacers are safe as long as they are properly made. |
| ID: 603 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: It is getting ssssooooo hot Question: hi i have had my 5 for 4 months and since i have had it, it has been getting hotter and hotter it has got a pipercross air filter and no cool air ducting and the turbo heatshield has virtually disintergrated. I know the stuff about flushing the system and flushing the rad is there anything else i can do cos at the mo i have to have the heater on and fan running to keep it cool ta JP PS cool site Answer: You could wire the fan to run all the time via a switch on the dash. Other than that I would recommend a new heatshield. There are many options like BB Tunings Kevlar one, Bruce Hockley sells stainless steel ones as do GT Tuning, Europarts do alloy ones and DD Autosports and K-Tec can supply heatshields too. Another option is to vent the bonnet and the options here are limitless!! |
| ID: 604 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Head Gasket Question: Wizard, Do you have any destructions or tips on how to change the head gasket mate, I have a bit of work to do and need any help I can get. Answer: Follow the haynes manual and ensure your working area is clean. Get the head checked for flatness and skimmed/rechambered if need be. Why not go for a flowed head whilst it is all apart? Make sure all the head bolts are renewed (uprate to 10.9 or 12.9 tensile strength) and torque it down evenly to at least 44lbs/ft if standard or more if uprated (up to 55-60lbs/ft) Check and renew if required all pipes and breathers. Renew any dodgy looking hose clips. |
| ID: 605 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17s Question: SORRY TO BOTHER YOU YET AGAIN BUT I TOLD YOU THE OFFSET OF MY WHEELS IS 46.ITS NOT I DOUBLE CHECKED ITS 38.WILL THE COILOVERS ELIMINATE IT NOW?I MIGHT HAVE TO PUT A 5mm SPACER ON OR SO I;VE BEEN TOLD.WOULD IT BE SAFE TO USE THE ORIGINAL WHEEL STUDS IF I USE A SPACER?SORRY FOR HASSLING YOU ABOUT THIS TOPIC SO MANY TIMES WIZ. Answer: Like I said, trial and error! I think you should be fine with the coilovers and they make a marked difference to the handling. Yes you may need a 5mm spacer and std studs will be fine for that. |
| ID: 606 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bent valves ? Question: Hi Wiz, Last wednesday at the revs track day my throttle spring snapped coming out of a corner on the track. The accelerator got stuck down and the revs went through the roof, luckily I managed to avoid crashing, but once I'd fixed the spring and got the engine stated again it was mis-firing and making making horrible tappety noises. To cut along story short there were two slightly bent pushrods and one tappet screw had come completely undone. So i replaced all 8 pushrods to make sure and redid all the valves clearances correctly as i have done them many times before. The GTT now runs okay, i.e. not mis-firing. But there is a fairly loud tappety noise at idle and an unhealthy knocking noise at revs above idle. The knocking seems to also be coming from the top of the engine. So i need to know what the problem is before i can fix it, so do you have any ideas?, I have one idea that one or some of the valves may be slightly bent, so that they can go back into their seat possitions but hit the side of the head on their way up, i.e. causing the knocking sound. Please let me know what you think... Cheers Wav Answer: The only way to tell if your valves are bent is to have a compression check. It could well be bent valves. |
| ID: 607 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bozzed wheel?? Question: Hairy chin, hope you can offer some advice. My passenger side wheel leans in at the top towards the inner wing more than the other side and looks daft!!! Now ive had a good check around and cant see anything bent or out of alignment. There is no apparant premature tyre wear and the car drives perfectly straight!! The thing that bothers me, is that the previous owner did bump it and the inner wing was all straightened up and a new wing replaced. Any idea on how im gonna get it alighened up squarely with the other wheel???? Is there a camber or some other kit i could buy to sort it??? Cheers me ol plum. Answer: There are camber correctors on the market but i have never had any experience of them. One thing you could do is measure the lower wishbone lengths as a non 5GT part may have been used after the bump. |
| ID: 608 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: piston rings Question: hello I have just had new rings and gasket fited and the mechanic told me not to drive it to hard but I was wondering how long will it take to run in and drive it normally again thanking you Answer: I would recommend not using any boost, if possible, for the first 200 miles and then gradually increase boost/revs every couple of 100 miles. A little blip for overtaking etc won't hurt but prelonged high boost will. At the end of the day it is down to you, the gentler you run it in the longer it will last. |
| ID: 609 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Noise on boost Question: Wizzy, I have asked you about this noise before but I have a little more info now, it does it at higher boost only and doesn't do it on standard boost, I have taken off the dumpvalve to see if it was that and it wasn't. I have now realised that I can predict the noise as it takes longer to boost up when the noise is going to occur! could it be wastegate related, I haven't swaped my intercooler yet. Its like a loud deepish hum. Any ideas? I'm starting to get annoyed with this noise now! Cheers wizzy Big Dave :-) Answer: Have you tried isolating the perc fan valve (clamped to the bulk head)? Try this and the intercooler and get back to me if need be. |
| ID: 610 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: erratic idleing Question: Just dont know wot to do captain . I've just finished a complete engine rebuild on my 5 with a new hybrid the prob i've got now is the bitch is worse than me misses for idleness. When up to temperature one minute its nearly at 2000rpm then the bitch nearly dies. You gotta help me mate coz I can't wait to hear that hybrid on full chat. Oh and on me hybrid its a single port actuator so which vacuum do I use. Thanks a lot mate. Answer: I expect your problem is related to the fact that you have a single port actuator and two pipes in your system. Connect the front most pipe, of the two, to the actuator and either block off the other or convert your car to the ""cup"" circuit. For the ""cup"" circuit you will need to do the following: remove the metal pipe that screws into the rear of the turbo outlet elbow and block the hole (M10 bolt I think), remove the pipe work from the actuator to the carb top (rear most of the two) and block off the outlet from the carb top. |
| ID: 611 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lancia Carb Question: Hi Wizard Great site, loads of useful information and services, keep up the good work!! My question is about the lancia twin choke carb. I know the carb is off a Lancia Delta, but which model exactly i.e. 1.6 single cam 1989 model etc, etc. I have heard of people doing this conversion, so what sort of work is required and is it hard. The problem is that I have managed to find a lancia delta breaking but the guy wants to know exactly what model is. Also is there anything else I should be aware of for this conversion. thanks for your help Imran Tunio Answer: The carb you require is from the 1.6 Turbo HF. I don't think the year maters. Obviously you will have to modify the manifold and carb top to suit and there is a fuel return from the carb rather than the pressure regulator that you will need to plumb in. |
| ID: 612 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Jumpy Speedo Question: Wizard, lately my speedo has started to go a bit funny. It keeps suddenly jumping about and then stops working. And then it'll work perfectly again. I'm sure it's a dodgy connection somewhere along the line. Is it going to be something simple I can fix or will I need to buy a new instrument unit? Answer: There is a connector situated near to the air filter box (thick grey wire, large black plug) it is quite common for this connection to be loose or corroded, which can cause the symptoms you describe. The other possible cause is where this grey wire connects to the back of the dash, this could be loose. If neither of these cure your problem then it is likely that heat has damaged the wire from the gear box sender to the dash or least likely the speedo is knackered!!!! |
| ID: 613 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Using excessive amounts of water! Question: Wizard, my 5 has recently been using an amazing amount of water, practically every time I check it it's empty. Is it just because it's using more to keep cool in the hot weather or do I have a bit of a problem on my hands? Thanks Wiz Answer: There are a number of possible causes. 1) You have a leak somewhere. 2) Your header tank cap is knackered. 3) Head gasket has gone. 4) Liner cracked. 5) Water jacket in head or manifold is cracked. Your best bet is to take the car to a reputable garage and get the cooling system pressure tested. This should tell you exactly what is wrong with the car. |
| ID: 614 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Gauge Question: Hello White Haired Old Man. I've been given a turbo gauge the type u mount in the dash or pod. The things is thats all i have the gauge, so wot do i need to plumb it in and where do i plumb it in???? Cheers mate. Answer: You will need a pod or trim to mount it in, wiring for the backlighting, and the all inportant pipe for the boost measurement. This will need to be plumbed into the ecu line if you want to read minus boost (or depression) or plumb it into the carb top for positive boost pressure only. |
| ID: 615 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hesitation Question: I posted a question recently about the car hesitating in the first gear and u said something about Group A carbs and slow airflow. I do have Group A carbs, so how could I improve the airflow? Thanks for your help. Answer: Basically the bigger venturi used in the Group A carb is just a bored out normal one so it loses its shape therefore slowing the airflow at little or no boost. The only way to improve it is to refit the std one! |
| ID: 616 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil, oil, oil Question: I have finally managed to get my baby started, and how is she? sick. Thanks for all your help to get me at this point in time without giving up hope and selling up, but now i ask for more words of wisdom. I have been told by a machanic that my engine had seized, it had not. I had been told the head gasket had gone, it had not, i have now been told that the turbo is dead and need a new unit, could this be possible? The engine will fire up but is not happy, i have changed the plugs as the old ones were covered in oil and burnt out. I am also burning more oil than an arab, is this the turbo and if so can i not just strip it and re-build it. Thanks for your time, Ben Answer: To see if it is the turbo, remove the pipe to the intercooler and look for oil. If it is oily then it could be two things. 1) Oil from breather system entering turbo via ""U"" bend. 2) Oil from turbo seals. Try blocking the ""U"" bend hole and putting the breather into a catch tank. This will show if its the breather system or not. If this is ok then turbo seals can be replaced for about £150 ish by a decent turbo company or you could use it as an excuse to buy a nice big hybrid! It is not a home job due to the fact it needs to be balanced properly or it won't last two minutes. |
| ID: 617 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Re-build Question: Alright oh Wise one. My latest problem is something of a biggun. The bottom end has gone - piston slap. Im bunging in a second hand lump for a while, and in the meantime, I going to do a full rebuild on my exising engine. My question is, other than the piston/liners, gasket/seal sets, timing chain etc, water and oil pumps and having the head re done professionally....what else needs to be bought ie bearings etc. Im going to put a new cam in too. What else would be involved with this ? And what are the characteristics of a lightened and balanced bottom end ? Can you buy the crank etc with this done and put it in yourself ? Thanks for your wise words in the past....... Rik Answer: A decent engine builder will balance the whole bottom end for under £100. This will allow the engine to rev smoother and pick up quicker. You are best off getting the engine builder to grind your crank etc for the new bearings as well as balancing as it will make it easier on labour. You will need new big end, main, and thrust bearings and a chain tensioner as well I expect. It goes without a doubt that you will fit an uprated head gasket and bolts, won't you? |
| ID: 618 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fan over ride switch Question: Wiz, I'm gonna wire a switch up in parallel to the temp sensing one. Where is it easiest to get the wires through the bulkhead and will I need to remove any of the dash to get them through? I was thinking of mounting the switch on the centre console below the stereo. Cheers Dan Answer: You can either drill a hole behind the dash or poke the wires through the existing hole in the baulkhead below the dash where the boost pipe etc goes through. This way you won't need to remove the dash. |
| ID: 619 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1.7 turbo conversion Question: Hi wizard! I am tempted to buy a volvo 440 turbo as I have seen one advertised for £400 in the local autotrader. I know these cars have a renault 1.7 turbo injection engine inside them. However, before I purchase it I need to know how difficult the engine conversion is. I belive it makes better sense to change the engine in a R5 to a 1.7 turbo because it works out to be more cost effective to mildly modify a 1.7 turbo engine than to heavily modify a 1.4 R5 turbo engine. Could you please help answer the following questions: 1) would it be better to purchase a whole car(440 turbo) than to buy the engine only 2) Are there any parts of the r5gtt which could be used in the conversion 3) is the Volvo 1.7 turbo engine the same engine that is in the R5 gtx, but with a turbo. 4) Would the gear box, drive shafts etc of the R5 turbo fit directly on the 1.7 turbo engine 5) is the conversion a straight forward swop or are there many technical difficulties Is there any thing else I should know before I buy the car. Any other useful information you could add would be greatly appreciated. Please do your best to answer the questions as I need your advice desperately, because I am unsure whether to buy the volvo or to leave it. Thankyou Imran Tunio Answer: It will be better to buy the whole car as you will need ecu and wiring loom etc I am led to believe that it will bolt straight in on 1.7 R5 mounts and the gearbox fits straight on. The worst bit will be the wiring and plumbing in of the injection system. All in all the conversion will not be easy and will no doubt require some engineering solutions (bodging?) but will be easier with the whole of both cars to work from. Good luck. |
| ID: 620 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cracked Head ? Question: Dear wiz How common is a cracked head on the five cos I was having problems with pressurised water system and the gasket and liners seem fine ! Also any tips on how to keep my alternator belt from jumping off when I go drag racing as its stopping me getting a really quick time ! I'm about to try an original reno smooth belt instead of the toothed type will that help ? P.S. the retainer pin is in place on the water pump and it still jumps off ! Cheers in advance ! Answer: It has been known for heads to crack and between the valve seats is very common. Get it pressure tested at a local engine remanufacturer or similar. As for the belt, I have come accross this problem before and it never occured with the Reno belt so it may sort it for you. If your retainer pin is in place then you could try making a new version with a washer or similar on the end. You could also try tightening the belt more for racing and loosen it again before you go home. |
| ID: 621 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lowering Question: Dear Wonderful Wizard, I've fitted Avo sports springs to the front of my car which lowers it 30 mm, not a huge amount I know but the motor has to be practical (and comfortable-ish). Now I want to lower the rear, I'm going to get a garage to do it, I've been told I could get it done @ a Reno dealer. To achieve the same drop at the rear how many splines do I get the torsion bars turned by? Unlowered with 15"" rims and 195/45 tyres the top of the tyre is just level with the lip of the horizontal section of the rear arch (the moulding that it) Your doing a great job, keep it up, Ta, Nick Answer: You will need to turn it either one or two clicks to get the wheelarch level with the top of the wheel instead of the tyre. |
| ID: 622 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Re-build II Question: Thanks for the speedy reply Wizard, I was just wondering if U could tell me the pros and cons of :- choosing low comp pistons over standard, using a baffled sump (what it does), an if it is worth going for forged pistons (what do they do?). And what else needs to be done if i lower the compression with the low comp pistons. Many thanks, Rik Answer: Low compression is a question that has come up before. Some people swear by it as a safe way to more boost and power and others keep things std. You will not have to make any other mods to use low comp pistons. If you keep it std then make sure the fuelling and ignition timing is set correctly. For example DD Autosports used std pistons and liners in there record breaking engine. A baffled sump is an excellent choice as it stops oil surge under hard acceration and cornering. |
| ID: 623 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: G/BOX OIL LEAK Question: DEAR WIZZ , I HAVE A LEAK ON THE GEAR BOX WHERE THE LINKAGE FROM THE GEAR LEVER ATTATCHES TO THE BOTTOM OF THE G/BOX . IS THIS EASY TO REPAIR OR CAN IT BE A MAJOR JOBBIE ??????? THANKS Answer: You may be able to replace the seal yourself if you are a capable mechanic, if not leave it to someone who is!. |
| ID: 624 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: perc fan Question: hi wiz i have just bought a new per fan from bb as the old one had been very noisey and finally stopped altogether. i have put the new unit in and it doesnt work ive tried joining the wires from the turbo and carb censor together and they didnt make the fan come on? the fuse is also o.k. i doubt wether its the fan itself? what do you think? im thinking it could be back wireing. many thanks Answer: There is also a relay for the perc fan, located behind the right hand headlight. Try that! |
| ID: 625 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bent as a nine bob note. Question: Having removed my turbo and checked it for play in the shaft, all is fine, is there any way i can test it to see if the oil seal is ok? I have also removed the head and have found a new problem. One of my push rods is bent and there is rust forming on the valve seats and the pistons, i have checked the head and found no cracks so is this down to a warped head and if so how do i fix this. Can you also advise as to any mods i can do to the head to up my power outputs as im running standard at the moment but want to up it to about 150-170bhp, thanks for your time. Hogboy Answer: The only way i know to test the seals is to run the turbo i am affraid. I take it the engine has been left standing for a while and if this is the case the rust will be from condensation in the air that is getting into the cylinders through the exhaust and inlet tract. I would spend the money and get the head ported properly as if you remove metal from the wrong places you will reduce power rather than increasing it! Maybe even add a camshaft while the engine is in bits to give you an extra turn of power. |
| ID: 626 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel system cleaner Question: Wiz, I have just added one of those Nitrox fuel system cleaners....My problem is that a friend said it could shaft my engine because the carbon and other build ups in an old engine are sealing any gaps and cleaning them off could cause me probs..is this true or will it actually help my car. (it does seem to be running a bit better, throttle responce etc) Thankz Answer: It will only cause a problem if the carbon build up is curing a problem. ie. if the carbon was sealing the turbo seals and you clean it away it will start to smoke!! |
| ID: 627 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pedal travel Question: wiz, can you help me the brake pedal seems to have excessive travel plus if you pump the pedal it seems to lower the revs . Answer: It sounds like the one way valve at the back of the manifold is knackered, the plastic valve in the servo is knackered or the pipe from the servo to the valve is leaking. Try checking the valves by removing them, blowing through both ways, they should only let air one way. If they are ok then try renewing the pipe from the servo to the manifold. |
| ID: 628 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rattle Question: wiz i seem to have a rattle/tapping noise from engine on idle its not dead loud ,could it be the tappets ,they were supposed to have been done on service Answer: Check the tappets, if they are ok then a leaking manifold gasket also sounds similar. Always use genuine Renault gaskets as they are metal backed and last longer. They are about £13. |
| ID: 629 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ignition key worn Question: when trying to start the car the ignition key will turn untill battery and oil light comes on but will not go any further so can't start the car can anything be done as to start the car or do i have to change the ignition. please help neal Answer: Try getting a new key from Renault. They will need chassis details etc and it only costs about a tenner or so. If this doesn't work then the only other suggestion is a new ignition unit. |
| ID: 630 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: horn not working Question: when pressing the horn the relay is clicking ,i have changed the relay and still not working. Answer: Try using a test light or another horn on your wiring. If it works then your compressor has gone if not then it is wiring. |
| ID: 631 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: BANG BANG BANG!!! Question: Please Help, car has run great for ages untill.....we had a massive downfall of rain the other day but it ran great through the rain but i had to stop for 5 mins when i got back in the car it started first time the i put it in reverse and set off then it cut out...i was low on fuel so i though it was that so i got a can and put some in still wouldnt start eventually i found the problem 2 be the fuel pump relay under the dash so i got another and it started but not first time.it ran rough and when i went to set off but it tryed to die i could only set off with a lot of revs.i set of home and the car was allright on acceleration but when i took foot of accelerator the car back fired very loud several times, and at junctions it tryed to stall but i got it home.Next morning the car ran ok from cold but as soon as it got hot it ran rough and started back fireing ,then it stalled and would`nt start again .Again it had blown the fuel pump relay under the dash ....any ideas??? and sorry for the long story regards steve Answer: I would think you have a sticking fuel pump from what you say and it is drawing too much current. Also check that the fuse is not too big as this should go before the relay. |