well, I say they drop right in. they do for the first 3 seconds, then they bind, and then they're a pig to move. So you need the jig set up ready to drop the pin right in to the correct position straight away. Saves bending the rod or scuffing a piston.
Regards the rod bearings, try bolting it to the journal with the piston hanging out the bottom of the engine, and if it turns on the journal OK then you must have bent the rod.
Top tip there if I ever saw oneOriginally Posted by Scoff
I know you would have done, and you would have been
Have you put no.4 in yet? with no.3 disconnected and pushed up out the way does it turn freely?
Yes the other 3 are in and torqued down, it turns freely
I take it you're not using new bearings? and original crank? everything that came off is going back in?
just ruling out other factors, just seems strange it's just the one rod if everything has been done the same
I know - this engine does not like me.
we just used a blowtorch to head up the end of the rod, and the gudgeons literally pop back in by handTop tip there if I ever saw one
I dont think 250c is hot enough when there nearly going red they should slide in effortlessly.
id say close to double the temp is needed.
Temperature when metal glows red
How to tell what temperature a glowing object (metals) might be:
Doesn’t really matter what the emitter is…stainless steel, cast iron, tungsten in your light bulb, the temps are about the same for a given color. Generally accepted colors/temps are:
C F Color
400 752 Red heat, visible in the dark
474 885 Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 975 Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 1077 Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 1292 Dark red
800 1472 Dull cherry-red
900 1652 Cherry-red
1000 1832 Bright cherry-red
1100 2012 Orange-red
just shows how hot your exhaust/turbo gets sometimes
OK - Got a new rod on, all is good!
we continue...................................
Tomorrow!
OK - bottom end is all back together, all torqued down nice and tight, sump and timing chain guard back on. Vavles back in the head using a different spring compressor.
Much nicer than the other type, even the TNT modded one
Just for reference - sizes.
Inlet valve - 34mm
Ex valve - 29mm
Head height - 73.2mm
Tonight I'll get the end plate back on and mock fit to the block and start looking at getting the exhaust support bracket to fit my set-up.
Getting there.
i used a 16v spring compressor to put mine back in, took over an hour with lots of swearing, the one that u posted a pic of looks like a winner!
TNT modded one looked a lot cooler though, I think the 4ft long lever handle we had welded to it may have caused it to break
I made something similar to change my stem seals without taking the head off
Raceland manifold on.
Then off
then on
then off
Staying off
Was looking forward to maybe gaining a little top end from that. Oh well, it just won't go on with the EFI inlet manifold, maybe another time.
Beer night tomorrow, then Thursday should see the clutch going in and possibly lowering C1 back into Fluffy. Fingers crossed. BTW anyone got the exhaust support bracket on with a 2.5inch down pipe???
Nightmare, thats bad enough putting on once
I did it on my drive at home and swore id never work on my car at home again lol.
Much much easier with the head off
piece of cake when off - I remember doing the inlet manifold with the engine in the car - epic pain in't arse.Nightmare, thats bad enough putting on once
I did it on my drive at home and swore id never work on my car at home again lol.
Much much easier with the head off
Got any pictures of the efi manifold Andy
Not atm - I can get some on tomorrowGot any pictures of the efi manifold Andy
It's an MT 1st version - same as Dave Reeds old one I think.
Not atm - I can get some on tomorrow
Cool mate would be nice to see what it looks like was it made for you or was it one of Michael t's manifolds
Sorry mate just read your last reply
Last edited by philr5t; 27-11-2012 at 23:33.
The runner coming away from exhaust port No 1 wants to mate with inlet runner No 1. bit of a cock really. As it is atm the exhaust runner runner would need to be chopped off and dropped by about 6-8mm. I really can't be arsed with getting that done now, and also I haven't seen any conclusive evidence to prove what the Tubby manifold does apart from cook starter motors and fall to bits. I'll possibly keep hold of this and keep it on one side should I re-design the inlet manifold.Cool mate would be nice to see what it looks like was it made for you or was it one of Michael t's manifolds
Sorry mate just read your last reply
Andy I've both those manifold fitted the inlet needed some heavy trimming to fit but it does fit.
Yep does fit, as said it needs some heavy grinding to get it to fit, there's plenty of meat on the inlet mani..Andy I've both those manifold fitted the inlet needed some heavy trimming to fit but it does fit.
Ill see if I've got any pics, if not Jesus may have taken some before he fitted the lump.
Hmmmm - looked pretty impossible to me, but, if you say so, might be worth a play. Did you have to remove one of the fixing bolts?
The 5 sounds lost but is replaced by a screaming almost motorbike soundi like it, and the power difference is very noticeable, less torquey but through the gears so much quicker.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...type=3&theater
Thats what mine sounds like, cam timing was way too retarded in that vid but gives you an idea.
Nope didn't have to remove any fixings.. All you need to to do is get all the nuts on first before tightening or you'll be swearing after
Also worth mentioning, you need to put both manifolds on together.
Last edited by Dave Reed; 29-11-2012 at 10:16.
Cheers Dave. 2 thingsNope didn't have to remove any fixings.. All you need to Sonia get all the nuts on first before tightening or you'll be swearing after
Also worth mentioning, you need to put both manis on together.
1. Who's Sonia?
2. Should you be openly broadcasting your inner monologue?
Cheers Dave. 2 things
1. Who's Sonia?
2. Should you be openly broadcasting your inner monologue?
Sonia normally only comes out at the weekend
Bloody iPhone! Lol...
Well would you Adam and Eve it
Even TNT Ross couldn't get into that gap
Cheers guys for the pointersWell would you Adam and Eve it
Even TNT Ross couldn't get into that gap
Get the lard ill give it a go
Get the lard ill give it a go
You'd go in dry you dirty munchkin
Fookin hell, Ross ya still alive then fella, how's tricks?
Gone again
Bad news tonight - getting the flywheel on, and found it doesn't fit - somebody did say it wouldn't go on. Should have listened to that person and not the other oneYou live and learn.
I'm notGone again
I'm all good Oli, manic with work and the misses shop we are trying to sort too. Red finally got back on the road again then off in about 100 miles a I wasn't happy with her still mainly due to a leak on the manifold . All back together again nearly only took 2 months for a manifold gasket changejust got too muc other stuff running at the mo to enjoy the car.
Hope you are all good though ?
Works on its arseI'm not
I'm all good Oli, manic with work and the misses shop we are trying to sort too. Red finally got back on the road again then off in about 100 miles a I wasn't happy with her still mainly due to a leak on the manifold . All back together again nearly only took 2 months for a manifold gasket change
Hope you are all good though ?
and its too fecking cold out to do anything to the cars, taking the 9 to butterbollocks unit this weeks so I can finish the welding and get it back on the road.
Apart from that I'm good
Bad news tonight - getting the flywheel on, and found it doesn't fit - somebody did say it wouldn't go on. Should have listened to that person and not the other one
where you trying to fit a volvo /renault valver flywheel to a c1j crank by any chance
just read the classifieds,who told you a 172 flywheel would fit a c1j crank pattern
Not to mention the additional cost at the engineers. Dohjust read the classifieds,who told you a 172 flywheel would fit a c1j crank pattern
Got a chap to machine the 172 6 paddle clutch and cover onto my Megan 1.6 8v flywheel, should be done next Thursday all being well.
Thanks Markey B for the contact - should have done this in the 1st place LOL.
BTW just for the record - the chap who supplied me with the flywheel etc is genuine and it has been a mistake just incase anyone thinks there's any piss taking going on. One of those things.
i'm sure i said to get a flywheel drilled months agoGot a chap to machine the 172 6 paddle clutch and cover onto my Megan 1.6 8v flywheel, should be done next Thursday all being well.
Thanks Markey B for the contact - should have done this in the 1st place LOL.
BTW just for the record - the chap who supplied me with the flywheel etc is genuine and it has been a mistake just incase anyone thinks there's any piss taking going on. One of those things.
LOL - cheers bud, got it done and the fecker aint in the middle of the flywheel. I had my suspicions when I picked it up, so I measured it. .75mm out to one side, now I know that doesn't sound a lot, but I would think at 7500 rpm its going to exaggerate that somewhat. Anyway, lond story short, I've just ordered a Panther 4 paddle clutch, coverplate and bearing and a new flywheel. I'll have this on and back in within a couple of weeks.i'm sure i said to get a flywheel drilled months ago
oh no! will it cause failure by that ammount? i know mines been ok but then again i dont do enough miles to show up a problem.
I would have thought so chap - I'm spending a fair bit on this engine, I can't really see the point in sticking that flywheel arrangement in knowing it's not right. It'll be in the back of my mind all the while if I put it in. I'm a bit of a tart like that.
If it went it would be a catastrophic failure and probably destroy the box and if you were unlucky come straight through the bulkhead and kill the passenger....
Never underestimate the energy stored in the flywheel, at 7000rpm if you are in the way, you're marmalade.
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