That probably would've result in clutch slip too..
That probably would've result in clutch slip too..
I always do thatOriginally Posted by Tony Walker
scrap it oli
as above, bet you its oil coming through the flywheel bolt holes, commonly mis-diagnosed on the F7 as crank oil seal. I've locktited and tigersealed mine in this time ;-)
diesel gearbox is fail, I ran a R19TDi one on mine for a while, the ratios were stupid long, lost all the fizz from the engine, 172 JC5 imo
not is the oil leaks behind the flywheel it wouldn't, it may sound impossible but it does, Dan's did the same, all he did was remove flywheel, refit and properly locktite'd it and it cured the leak, he didn't touch anything else
I went one step further and put a dab of tigerseal on the underside of the head and first few threads of the bolt (nearest head) and locktited the bottom threads.
my first crankseal leaked (i thought) so removed it and placed a new one, both times i locktited the flybolts however it still leaks
Clutch side of the flywheel was dry, no evidence oil at all, not much oil on the back either and none on the crank seal, looks more like the 2 seals either side of the bearing cap
Is that the same ratios as on a laguna diesel gearbox? as thats what I've got and I don't find the ratios that long
diesel gearbox is fail, I ran a R19TDi one on mine for a while, the ratios were stupid long, lost all the fizz from the engine, 172 JC5 imo
not a clue, all I know was it' do over 100 in 3rd
sounds like the other halves zetec KA on a 1.3 boxnot a clue, all I know was it' do over 100 in 3rd
crank seal from the kits is pap too, too thin, need an OE black deep one and some sealant to make good
it was useless though, ratios were just too long to keep it on full boost, I popped it at pod though pretty quickly so it was swapped straight out!
I had the crank seal from the ebay kit and it's much beefier than the oe one!
Could well be due to the wheel size of a laguna, it has larger wheels so probably a shorter final gear to compensate...
The engine is all back together and back in the bay but I'm taking advantage of the charge cooler being to improve it.
First off I'll get the boost in and out ports changed from 55mm to 63mm.
Second the whole coolant system will be changed from 13mm to 25mm, the charge cooler and pre red will need adjustment.
Third the front bumper needs opening up to improve airflow to the pre rad but this is where I'm having trouble making a choice, I could easy take another inch out of the recess but there's still 80mm of rad covered.
Do I cut the whole front out, drill 60mm holes across the front to maintain strength or just trim a little bit out?
have u considered a front mount intercooler? less pissing about, no rads to leak, no electrics to play up, and looks better tooThe engine is all back together and back in the bay but I'm taking advantage of the charge cooler being to improve it.
First off I'll get the boost in and out ports changed from 55mm to 63mm.
Second the whole coolant system will be changed from 13mm to 25mm, the charge cooler and pre red will need adjustment.
Third the front bumper needs opening up to improve airflow to the pre rad but this is where I'm having trouble making a choice, I could easy take another inch out of the recess but there's still 80mm of rad covered.
Do I cut the whole front out, drill 60mm holes across the front to maintain strength or just trim a little bit out?
1 of the mods to the charge cooler system is a bigger header tank but space in the engine bay is non existant, so it'll go where the battery normally lives and the battery will go in the boot, this will help with weight distribution as a bonus for making space in the front.
But battery cable is chuffing exspensive stuff, coming in at 9quid a metre for 25mma quick trip to halfrauds for an isolation switch to live where the battery normally would and some late ring crimps robbed from work and all is good
Just need to make up a battery clamp, for this ill use 2 lengths of M10 threaded rod, a number of lock nuts and washers and finally a length a ally box section with 1 side cut out to lock either side of the battery to prevent movement.
hole cutter, leave 35mm min gap between hole edges or close to, once you've marked your centres , that way you will retain some strength in the bumper, whilst lightening the load
i would cut the holes above on the upper face of your bumper, as that will have the most effective flow to the rad and cooler, pretty certain where you've marked is where the slam panel is located, check before you start drilling. just in case
Hi oli will you need to drill holes in the bumper maybe try it as it is first I have the standard size c/cooler rad behind a standard front grill and dont ever see charge temps higher than 34 degrees on full boost but saying that it could run cooler as I have the tank mounted in the scuttle
Just a thought mate
Phil
My battery is now mounted in the boot, I used a length of ally box section with 1 side taken out so it looks across the top of the battery.
I use threaded rod either side bolted through the boot floor, while I was under the back I gave the underside of the boot floor a quick spray with underseal.
I earthed the battery to the boot lock and the threaded rod, I will add another earth that'll go all the way to the engine bay.
Looks a bit hoyed in place oz get it in a proper box
Doesn't move an inch fella, I got hold of the battery and pulled on it and started bending the boot floor and it still didn't move from under the bar
Its not the movement its the bare terminals, when you corner hard and that metal chair in the back arcs out on them boom? Lol
ai, at least cap the terminals fella, wont have to worry about slinging stuff in boot then
battery in boot.... 6 years too lateMy battery is now mounted in the boot, I used a length of ally box section with 1 side taken out so it looks across the top of the battery.
I use threaded rod either side bolted through the boot floor, while I was under the back I gave the underside of the boot floor a quick spray with underseal.
I earthed the battery to the boot lock and the threaded rod, I will add another earth that'll go all the way to the engine bay.
Standard Ariel is all good, apart from when the holding screw comes loose and knocks against the roof of the car (sorry no pics) but Phil has a short stubby ariel, this looked well sweet.
That chair doesn't live in there, it's just in there while I work on the car
I was thinkin I'd do thatai, at least cap the terminals fella, wont have to worry about slinging stuff in boot then
Nuts to u butterbeanbattery in boot.... 6 years too late
Thanks to JP's welding friend my charge cooler and pre rad are now modified to better improve the flow of boosted air and the coolant, with any luck this should keep the charge temps down low.
all up and running now then?
im still clutchless!!!!!!
****ing useless old **** at helix wants shooting
Not yet, gunna try and get it done tonight.all up and running now then?
im still clutchless!!!!!!
****ing useless old **** at helix wants shooting
Your joking! What is their excuse this time???
personally not a fan of the holes look bumpers, heres what iv done with, got a nice big open bit but also not lost loads of bumper, and left the corners so i can mount a no.plate still if i need toThe engine is all back together and back in the bay but I'm taking advantage of the charge cooler being to improve it.
First off I'll get the boost in and out ports changed from 55mm to 63mm.
Second the whole coolant system will be changed from 13mm to 25mm, the charge cooler and pre red will need adjustment.
Third the front bumper needs opening up to improve airflow to the pre rad but this is where I'm having trouble making a choice, I could easy take another inch out of the recess but there's still 80mm of rad covered.
Do I cut the whole front out, drill 60mm holes across the front to maintain strength or just trim a little bit out?
Ah crap, wish id seen that last night, already taken the hole saw to the front bumper :/
Oh well, it's done now and the new charge cooler setup is in and complete, because of the increase in coolant line size I found there were a lot of bleeding issues, the main 1 was down to the fact the charge cooler only has the 13mm ports on it and I was using reducers to increase and decrease the hose size before and after the cooler.
Because the hose coming out of the cooler went from 13mm to 25mm it caused a void that the flow couldn't fill causing more air bubbles in the system.
So I fitted 13mm hose from the cooler to the header tank and moved the water pump as low as possible which means the header drains straight into the pump elimnating another airlock. Job done
I had the ports on the charge cooler increased from 55mm to 63mm and the top port moved to the side, this allowed me to shorten the boost circuit and remove 2 overly tight bends from the system.
Thought it was time to upload some pics of the new charge cooler setup
Can anyone spot where the pump is for the cc system?
And here's the front end now it's been opened up for airflow, not exactly sleeper style anymore but needs must
Can you give us a clue where the pump is its quite hard to see on an iPhone its definatly not where mine is
Last edited by philr5t; 16-07-2012 at 00:21.
Under the n/s headlight i think (had mine under there just enough spaceCan you give us a clue where the pump is not hard to see on an iPhone is definatly not where mine is
Still can't really see but if it's under the head light that is a similar place to mine
I think it's on the roof lol with that massive wing you have glued on
Yep, give that boy a gold star
I put it there as it was the lowest point I could get it yet still be above the pre rad so the pump doesn't have to draw the water upwards at any point, the water drains straight from the header tank straight into it meaning it's dead easy to bleed the system
Nah that was HAndyI think it's on the roof lol with that massive wing you have glued on
thats alot of faff when you could have just fitted an intercooler.....
GTT a pair of Clio valver hubs fitted with new bearings and on the car tonight, they could do with a lick of paint but that can wait till after national day.
The turbo oil feed was leaking from the T piece where the pressure gauge connected so I ordered a new T piece and unions, they turned up Wednesday and I got those fitted tonight aswell, unfortunately the adaptor to fit the gauge pipe was the wrong thread but the replacement is on the way, hopefully here on Monday.
I'll be honest with the weather the way it is I might let the 5 miss this year and bring the 9 instead, plus the 9 would be a laugh in the wet on track
You tart - you just can't bear the thought of being wooped by a 1.4 8 valve.GTT a pair of Clio valver hubs fitted with new bearings and on the car tonight, they could do with a lick of paint but that can wait till after national day.
The turbo oil feed was leaking from the T piece where the pressure gauge connected so I ordered a new T piece and unions, they turned up Wednesday and I got those fitted tonight aswell, unfortunately the adaptor to fit the gauge pipe was the wrong thread but the replacement is on the way, hopefully here on Monday.
I'll be honest with the weather the way it is I might let the 5 miss this year and bring the 9 instead, plus the 9 would be a laugh in the wet on track
But on a positive note - the weather next week looks set to be good, so no exuses.
And on another positive note - good work on the 5, can't wait to see yours and JP's side by side. Shame Handy's won't be there.
Thing is I've track time booked and the 5 won't be mapped for anything over 5psi in time to use it properly, 5psi should be quick but because of the increase in turbo size it feels really flat, I might be able to get some live mapping done in time but I don't feel safe ragging it, where as the 9 I'll rag the tits off it all day long only stopping for fuel and oil
When I put the 5 back together I had to clean up the throttle body and the TPS got shifted so when I got it started it was running rough as, at idle it was running rich, in the 9's infact
30 seconds with the laptop connected and she's running sweet as after resetting the TPS
Now all I need to do is hope the header tank cap holds after I ran over it after forgetting to put it back on before a test drive and hope the coolant system issue I was having is sorted.
See you all at Blyton
Well I'm back from Blyton and what a great weekend, from the oil slick in my engine bay to Mad Andy's 20 second from start to spin lap
The toaster managed 3 fast laps before I got black flagged for smoke coming off my front wheel which turned out to be about 2 litres of oil coming out of the engine
As for how it got out in the first place........it was my fault, because I'm not using the cambelt covers the mounting holes were left open, 1 of those passes right through into the engine
thanks to JP and Handy for managing to get a bolt in there even while the engine was hot, The Master for the use of his trolley jack and another who's name I can't remember (sorry fella, I'm crap at names) for giving me the bolt, you had the Volvo engine'd white Clio.
Apart from the oil loss the track showed the suspension needs setting up desperately as coming out of every corner the back end kept stepping out
And finally the engine it's self, even though it was running 3psi on a safe map it went like a fecking rocket
and i failed completely to have a poke around the engine
i did manage to corner JP for quite a while and nosey over his build though, come away with some cooling ideas to perhaps reduce my inlet temps a tad from the 58 i was seeing on track
so the Pace chargecooler isn't that great afterall?
i dont think that any are after their weekend testing
Lol, if i get what you're saying they atleast give them the beans!
I wouldn't say the core itself isn't any good, I'd say it's the pre rad, header tank and the size of the coolant lines that let it down
mine was fine, ran 58 degrees absolute peak at 16psi all day on track, standard everything
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