Big thanks to Turbo Ted for Saturday, not just for taking me out for a blatant in ya track slag 19 but for also checking the oil which showed me what was wrong with mine.........
Renault sold me the wrong dipstick, been over filling the oil by about 2 litres, drained the oil to the minimum Mark and have been running it, funny enough the smoke has started to get better.
Out of interest, does it have a black or blue dot on the top, I had two dipsticks, one was the black dot, the other blue, I used the blue which had the max & min marks closer than the black dot one, if that makes sense.Originally Posted by Os8472
Oli glad you found out what the problem was, I will make a note of it for when I get my engine back in as I have both dipsticks aswell and can't remember which one was for my sump
There's no dot on it, the correct 1 has the marks close together, about 25mm apart I recon, I'll measure it properly later
Blue dot then, I have the correct one in that means
Does it take 5.1l of oil ?
Yeah that sounds about right
Blue dot then, I have the correct one in that means
Does it take 5.1l of oil ?
Cometic MLS gasket, brand new head bolts off the club shop, torque was 90 instead of the factory 65 so that weren't the problem
Olly one thing has always stuck in my head with your thread and that is the 90nm as I have been doing search after search after search myself on the F7p and F7r and i have found that the F7p and F7r torque sequence is the same be it for the stretch or non stretch bolts only difference being the non stretch bolts you can prob re-use a couple of times and just need to do the final 2 stages. And the sequence is always that fecking 6 stage crap, are you sure you done it right.
stage one..30nm
stage two..angle tighten by 50 degrees
stage three..wait for 3 minutes
stage four...loosen all bolts completely
stage five..25nm
stage six...angle tighten by 108 degrees +-3 degrees
I know you found the cause was ring to bore clearance but are you sure you have the correct headbolt setting's? just don't want to see you have any more problems as I know how frustrasting it all is
Last edited by James5; 19-07-2011 at 16:26.
Interesting that you found the f7r required all that crap, I looked at it and **** myself thinking how hard it all looked but while at my local Renault stealership I asked about it and they said it's just there to put off DIY mechanics
This seemed to good to be true so I asked at a machine shop and they said the same thing, so basically bolloxs to all that angle crapaslong as the bolts are done in the correct order which happens to be the same as a GTT's head bolt sequence there shouldn't be a problem
90nm in one go or in stages?
Pretty much all heads tighten the same sequence, the angles vary alot tho. basically theres less error with angles than torque settings. if the threads are dirty, some water in there or one bolt oiled and the other not then it will require different forces to tighten the same amount. where as nipping them to the initial 25-30nm on most heads , then giving every bolt the exact same angle tightening sequence means there is more likely to be even pressure across the head. deffinetly let it rest for a few mins after each step.... usually most heads are 20-30nm first stage then two angles. You should have a look at the torque setting for the volvo t5 engines, b5244t3 engine code. with a normal 3/8 torque ratchet you will really struggle to tighten them enough.
Finger tight on all ten then hammer the f**kers down to 90nm in order, job done
You wouldnt want to wind one to 90 then leave it tho. that first bolt wouldnt be 90nm by the time all the other bolts have squashed the gasket, more so with fibre than a metal gasket.
Crazy, its never going to be right doing it like that
Ok I didn't wind them straight down to 90nm, I did them all finger tight, then all to 30nm, all to 60nm, all to 75nm and then finally to 90nm
Oli, there is a guy on clio16valver.co.uk selling a 7R bottom end for £50 with new water pump, he's in essex.
No need fella, tis all hand, got an f7p block at a machine shop getting some tweaks
No need fella, tis all hand, got an f7p block at a machine shop getting some tweaks
Thanks for the help though
No need fella, tis all hand, got an f7p block at a machine shop getting some tweaks
Thanks for the help though
No need fella, tis all hand, got an f7p block at a machine shop getting some tweaks
Sounds good, so are you slipping the williams crank and bit's in to the F7p or just having the F7p crank sorted after the slipped bearing and using your pistons on the f7P rods and just boreing out the block to the correct size.
Fingers crossed after all this it comes together for you
To be honest what I want from my engine and the turbo I'm going to use I wished I never used such a long throw engine and used the f7p now, u can't rev the bloody things from what I've readSounds good, so are you slipping the williams crank and bit's in to the F7p or just having the F7p crank sorted after the slipped bearing and using your pistons on the f7P rods and just boreing out the block to the correct size.
Fingers crossed after all this it comes together for youif I were u I'd really stick to the f7p. I can't see 200cc's making that much of a difference?
Well the plan was to chuck the 2.0ltr guts in the 1.8ltr block but a phone call from the machine shop today changed that planSounds good, so are you slipping the williams crank and bit's in to the F7p or just having the F7p crank sorted after the slipped bearing and using your pistons on the f7P rods and just boreing out the block to the correct size.
Fingers crossed after all this it comes together for you
They are going to test the rings tomorrow but they recon it's the oil scrapper ring on no.4 that's faulty
I've heard that too but I've been out in both Coop's 1.8turbo Clio and a turbo'd Williams I could see a difference but not enough that I'd panic aboutTo be honest what I want from my engine and the turbo I'm going to use I wished I never used such a long throw engine and used the f7p now, u can't rev the bloody things from what I've read
You reckon you done the rings with too much oil Oli ?
I did read HILL POWER used 1.8 blocks and made 2.0 blocks out of them and I think it was the clio 1.9 diesel crank but I've never seen one, I've a f7r 710 block if ur ever after a 2.0 block and I've a 2 f7p engines if u need bits, I've yet to strip them to see if there serviceable though
Don't think so, I recon the ring was faulty from new, why would only 1 fail and the first time I ran it up I didn't fill it up full
Mines an f7r 710 engine aswell, u wouldn't happen to have the reg of the car your engine came out of would ya?
At least you're not barking up that tree any more - I would have been staggered if as competent a machine shop such as Scholar had screwed up.Well the plan was to chuck the 2.0ltr guts in the 1.8ltr block but a phone call from the machine shop today changed that plan
They are going to test the rings tomorrow but they recon it's the oil scrapper ring on no.4 that's faulty
Hope it's the rings dude, and from what you have written so far, it can only be that.
Not long now then.
oli we gave you a list of things to look at and rings was the first one on the listalways start with the cheapest option first then work your way up if unsure of what it is
nevermind lets just hope that it fixes the problem and you can sell the f7p bottom end to marky b who will need a few for spares
Did look at the rings but they looked ok, if they are at fault then it must be some defect that u cant see, wrong size, wrong spring rate who knowsoli we gave you a list of things to look at and rings was the first one on the list
nevermind lets just hope that it fixes the problem and you can sell the f7p bottom end to marky b who will need a few for spares
The F7P block is shorter than the F7R so you can't just bore the 1800cc one out. I guess you could run pistons with less compression height or something. But does the 93mm crank go in OK too ? I think that might want to clobber stuff.
Sorry mate I don't it was just a £80 quid engine on ebay he didn't even know that it was a sort after engine
It's not really sort after, it's only rare cus no one bought the car it came in, it's the Clio Williams 2.0ltr people want
From what I've seen of the 710 to the 700 f7r I wouldn't of payed 265 quid for a williams block 4 years ago lol is it 147bhp to the william's 150bhp? I'd buy them left right and centre for parts if I could and they had jc5 box I think?
Interesting as I measured both my f7r block and a f7p block and they came up the same??? I know the crank isn't a direct fit, part of the webbing on rear inside wall of the block needs machine for it to fit but as far as I can tell it would work just fine
At the end of the day there is only tiny differences between the four versions of the f7r
The 700 was fitted to the Williams Clio with a valver head but much larger valves than the 1.8, made 150bhp
The 710 was fitted to the early megane coupes, this differed from the 700 by having a whole new head with smaller inlet ports but bigger valves and milder cams, still made 150bhp approx.
The 714 was fitted to the late Megane's and the early Spiders with very little changes over the 710 apart from the shallow sump, 150bhp approx.
The 720 was only ever found in the later Spiders, the main difference is the oil pump is now driven by a chain off the crank instead of by the cambelt, this version was to later become the base for the f4r, albeit with a different head design, still only 150bhp
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