............or have a 'thermal incident'Originally Posted by Os8472
that is if you don't use a million psi of boost
............or have a 'thermal incident'that is if you don't use a million psi of boost
My thoughs exactly.............or have a 'thermal incident'
Got that covered, the rad i'm gunna use is shorter in height than the gtt item so it fits under the inlet but its alor wider, infact its core is bigger overall than the original megane rad, my oil cooler will sort the oil temp side of things and as for boost, charge cooler ftw baby............or have a 'thermal incident'
i was referring to mr stott's snetty exploits... funny because i had a similar incident at the same place
Nah it'll be fine, he'll notice a massive drop in engine bay temps and coolant temps, so baring any major hiccups it'll be spot oni was referring to mr stott's snetty exploits... funny because i had a similar incident at the same place
just thru using EFI?! cooler temps?
Yep, if anything mine runs too cold, i'm gunna have to cover half the rad just to keep it at the right temps.
You can reduce charge tempsusing efi too, just map it to inject a small amount of fuel a milliesecond before the normal injection time and it'll have an effect
Some minor progress
I bought a clio valver fuel rail a while back and started to convert it to suit my new engine but it went abit wrong
My inital plan was to have the fuel lines connecting at each end so I blanked off the OE fuel reg and tapped a hole to take a -6 fitting
And tried to tap the other end but the thread didn't take and I tried tapping out a bigger thread but that didn't work either
So I changed my plan and ordered a pair of weld on -6 fittings
And got busy with the file and made the OE fuel in and out pipes fit inside the new fittings, all they'll need is abit of tig welding and all is good
While the fittings are getting welded I'll get the chap to weld up the 2 ends of the rail and then I'll clean all the old paint off, prep it and repaint it
as much as u slate nige, his welding is awesome, and cheap too!
Tell that to Ross and see what he says
I've never had an issue and I've prob had more individual items done than anyone else lol
Well you were the lucky one cus it seems he's pissed alot of people off.
Anyway had enough talking about him.
More progress, i've ordered all the fuel fittings i need to relocate the fuel pressure regulator and link up with the fuel rail on the newengine, hopefully they'll turn up by friday.
Spoken to an engineering firm on the works i need doing to the block, crank and flywheel, hopefully drop those off friday and as soon as there done i can order the pistons and rods and begin to start putting the basic bottom end together
fuel rail is withthe welder so hopefully that'll be all done soon so i can clean it up and give it a lick of paint.
The fuel fittings i order sunday where delivered yesterday morning but i wasn't there to sign for them so i picked them up this morning, nice a cheap price and look great, will take some pics later
If you don't mind me asking,where did you get your fittings from?as I'm after some -10 fittings at a reasonable price
oh yeah,chop chop get some pics up :-)
Go on fleabay look for a seller called torque_uk
This is what I ordered, enough fuel line to extended my existing lines plus the ends and 2 female to female adaptors
Right been to the machine shop and dropped off my crank, flywheel and block and while I was there I got them to check the mating face of the head for straightness and they said it was perfect and just needs a going over with some carb cleaner and some rag, so that's me busy tomorrow
the c1j knows its time is coming to end, so its now playing up like f**k to try and force me to spend money on it, first off it threw itsaux belt for the first time friday night, last night it kept cutting out at 60mph and this morning the fuel pump doesn't want to workbloody female cars
More progress
First off after only 2 days at the machine shop I got the call that my block, crank and flywheel were ready for collectionbloomin ek guys that was quick gotta pick them up monday after work.
Pistons, rings, rods, gudgions and studs all on order, hopefully be here tuesday.
Fuel is back from welding, will put some pics up once I've pressure tested it and painted it.
Been cleaning up and painting other bits ready, starting with the gearbox mount, altinator mount and two aux belt pulleys.
Before
Primered
First coat of black
The pulleys, altenator bracket and gearbox mount have had several more coats of black and now look alot better
Other good news, I got a chance to get over to the machine shop after work and pick up my block, crank and flywheel, well I say block, crank and flywheel, what I mean is I'll pick up the block and crank and will have to come back for the flywheel later in the week as some twit forgot to write done on the job sheet that the flywheel needed refacing
Ohwell they were able to supply new crank and conrod bearings though
Now all I have to do is figure out where to drill the oil return for the turbo and I can get on with building up the engine, oh and before anyone pipes up and says use the search function, I already have and found that my block for some reason doesn't have the lump at the bottom that needs drilling outI'm cursed with this engine before I've even started.
This is the back of the block dummyed up with a gearbox, driveshaft, starter and turbo in place, where the feck am I supposed to drill then?
Thats where your supposed to but as you can see mine doesn't have the lump
Right been busy again, with the block back from the machine shop, I cleaned it, tapped the oil return for the turbo and painted it
Also got the flywheel back from the machine shop with a new smooth face to it
The forged pistons and H-pattern rods finally turned up a week late but look feckin awesome
Mid way through assembly of pistons and rods
And with Handy doing most the work (damn I know how to deligate lol) pistons fitted
Also got a chance to pressure test the fuel rail and paint it and got some other bits painted to
getting there oli
not sure if you've covered it already but just wondering if you'd need to get the botttom end balanced with the forged components?
Interesting question, when I dropped off the block and crank they asked If I wanted the pistons and rods balanced, I said I can't order them till I know the bore size, they said ok as long as they have no more than a few grams difference in weight they should be ok, I said they were wossiner pistons, they said should be perfect then and not to worrygetting there oli
not sure if you've covered it already but just wondering if you'd need to get the botttom end balanced with the forged components?
Best check to be sure at this stage!
Looking good BTW, but why did you paint your fuel rail threads?
who did the machining? randalls?
Hell no, the last thing they did for me was loose my spare gtt flywheel I took in to get machined for a 215mm clutch, I went to Scholar engines
progress on the new engine kinda stalled after funds ran out but now cash flow has come good and parts are on there way, first off JP provided me with an MLS head gasket and has a 4 paddle 215mm clutch which should do the job nicely.
I'm heading to ktec with a mate saturday so he can pick up his boot brace for his megane and i'll get a cambelt kit while i'm there.
I've finished cleaning up and checking over the oil pump, thought i would have to get a refirb kit but it was mint so thats ready to go on and the sump can go on shortly after, then its on withcleaning up and prepping the head.
Finally found the time to fit the oil pump and seal the sump on, bottom end finished
Dummied up the engine withe head, manifolds and an old turbo, looks great but the exhaust still worries me, really not sure if it'll clear the brake master cyclinder
Next job is to clean up the head, fit it and fit the cambelt.
Quick shout but has anyone got a spare 215mm clutch cover plate they wanna sell cheap?
i might infact have a 215 volvo clutch cover in my mums garage, brand new. ill look on sat if you can hold out that long?
That'd be awesome fella, yeah I can defo wait that long
Some progress pics, bottom end is built and head is ready to bolted down, just waiting on the head bolts ordered from the club shop to arrive, hint hint hint
Couldn't be arsed with modding the stock altenator bracket so I made my own
Well that's it, 1.4 is gone forever and the 2.0 is sat snuggly in the engine bay
Is that an air line fitting being used as a drain back?Right been busy again, with the block back from the machine shop, I cleaned it, tapped the oil return for the turbo and painted it
Also got the flywheel back from the machine shop with a new smooth face to it
The forged pistons and H-pattern rods finally turned up a week late but look feckin awesome
Mid way through assembly of pistons and rods
And with Handy doing most the work (damn I know how to deligate lol) pistons fitted
Also got a chance to pressure test the fuel rail and paint it and got some other bits painted to
Yep, was the perfect size and I already had a tap of the right thread, job done
Right some updates of current progress.
First off thanks to some help the 1.4 is gone and the 2.0 is in and I've been working my way through a list of bits to get it all hooked up and ready to run
This is how she currently sits, you can see the fuel pressure regs new home in the scuttle area and the new fuel lines, vacuum lines and throttle cable
An old rad dummied up so I can work out where everything goes round it
The turbo in its new home
Right ive been slacking abit when it comes to keep this thread upto date with pics and details and since I knackered my ribs yesterday work on the car is impossible so I'll do a proper update tonight
Finally got a chance to upload some pics of my progress
The reworked front end, can you spot the difference?
The turbo in its new home
And pretty much as far as I got before I had to take it all back out again
Well for those that do and those that don't know my 5 never made it to national day or french car show or frog of the pod, why because as soon as I start the engine cylinder 4 started to fill with oil
over a month later and the head taken off 5 times, the cams out, the pistons out, the head stripped, the rings stripped and measured, the pistons stripped and measured and the bores measured to see if there oval it seems I've finally found the problem.
Took piston no.s 2 and 4 to a different machine shop to make sure they wearnt mishapen and were the right size, all a ok but the guy made a coment on how little the oil control rings stick from the piston so he got his book out and had a measure up but they were right, he then asked had the bores been touched, I said yes and the pistons were ordered to suit what i was told would fit. Needless to say it looks like the machine shop honed the bores so much on no.4 the oil control ring isn't making contact
and I recon the other 3 can't be far behind, now i need to pull the block and get it measured properly to make sure first but it looks like this block is now no use to meand the hunt for a new block may have to begin.
I'm gutted, for the first time ever I built an engine properly, all new bolts, all gaskets, all the right torque settings, everything cleaned and prep'd before fitting and it all went wrong, from now on I'm only building engines in a damp, dusty shed with random bolts, gaskets and everything covered in crap
Gutted for you mate, atleast you have found the problem. Good luck finding a good block.
Olly that is a ****ter but at least you found the problem if its any consolation my f7p is doing the same and I am in the hunt for an f7p standard bore block also
Not knowing the difference between the two blocks apart from the bore size & poss rod or crank, will an F7P block be any good to you Olly ? I have 2 spares that you can bore out if it will work..
You are welcome to try one.
Appreciate that bud, the f7p and f7r blocks are similar but not enough that u can just check f7r internals in an f7p block.
The bore on an f7r is 82.7mm stock where as an f7p is 82.5mm stock, the f7p block would also need machining for the f7r crank to to clear.
I need to my block out first and get it measured properly first before I do anything else
if the oil scraper rings are not touching then ,maybe buy a set of wossner rings for a 83 mm piston, that should close your gap, as said before
cheaper than cashing out on another secondhand block that will most likely need re boring and new pistons anyway
could be worse could have smashed all your valves(like me
)
and snap your oil pump shaft(no longer available from renault( and wrecked both bearings shells(outer no longer available from renault,and inner £65 notes) and then spend three days making tools to pull the old knackered shells out ,and put new shells in which have to mm perfect to line up with oil ways
but hey
thank f##k for volvo
Right update time, Finally fixed the problem that caused oil to enter no.4, a dodgy ring (off t the docs for some cream
With that sorted I've cracked on and go the engine rebuilt, dropped back in the bay and all hooked up, did a few jobs in the process such as the new crank sensor bracket, coil pack bracket and oil return off the turbo.
It has run and seemed ok but I've had to pull the rad back out to get a few jobs sorted such as the route for the oil cooler lines and air filter but with any luck it'll be up and running by this time next week, then its MOT and on to WSR at silverstone
First off the new cranks sensor bracket I made
Wasn't happy with the flexi oil return pipe off the turbo so out came the plumbing supplies and nice hard pipe made up that sits well away from the driveshaft
A nice set of 560cc Evo 8 injectors off ebay, 35quid, bargin
The oil lines to the oil cooler rerouted round the drivers side of the rad giving more space for an airfilter
The cam cover as it is, I think it needs something else just to finish it off though, a sticker or something, any ideas?
The reworked front end, can you spot the difference? most can't
The engine as it is right now, got the stock megane cam cover in place while I finish the engine as I don't wanna scratch the paint on the new 1 and there's a few bits to neaten up, mainly though I need a new oil catch tank, anyone got 1 spare?
looking good lad. i think the sticker james has on the back of his 5 would suit the engine cover. maybe add a t to it.
My sticker on the rear is just a spare spark clover sticker (I used it to cover up the marks left from an old BBPT sticker), there is a kiddie on the www.clio16valver.co.uk forum that makes them and sells them he does them in most colour's would defo look good
(excuse the state of my wiring needs to be sorted properly still
Last edited by James5; 12-08-2011 at 11:56.
i thought about 1 of those f16 stickers but i dunno if it'll look right.
Any other ideas?
how about 'this car never works since i started messing with it' sticker
good idea that Mark, whats the name of the place you get the stickers for yours? YOu know the ones that read 'this car only comes out twice a year, once to go to FCS and the other to blow up'
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