First thanks to DJ for the bottom end top guy..
Right so I'm going to rebuild this bottom end and put the cam in from Marky mark..
So who has a list and best places for gasket sets I'm guessing gsf? As there local I know I won't know untill stripped if things need replacing but what's the best way to go about this it's time to share your knowledge guys..
Last edited by Nottswoody; 19-09-2012 at 20:46.
Well, first of all I would look at getting a full gasket set from gsf and replacing them all as a matter of course.
Then you want to make sure you have a few of the tools/equipment required to do a proper job.
Piston ring compressor
Piston ring removle tool
Mag stand and a dial test indicator
Decent tourq wrench
New nuts and studs for the con rods
Arp can supply the above.
For me new piston rings are a must, if the liners are glazed at all or the hone marks are non existent then it's time for either a re-hone or new liners.
Check the pistons for wear marks, check each ringland for wear, I have seen chunks out of them before now, some wear marks on the side of the piston are normal but they shouldn't be any deep wear marks.
Of course a new piston and liner kit will always be the best bet, trying to save money in the wrong areas can end up costing you more money and time in the long run
The crank jounals shouldn't have any deep scoring marks in them, if you can get your finger nail in them then it will probably need a re-grind providing it hasn't be ground down to the minimum tolerance already, check the bearings for small numbers on to see what size they are and this should give you an idea weather or not a crank will need to be sourced or not.
Obviously new bearings the correct size are a must imo.
As for cam follwers, these really need to be checked by an engineer to make sure they are still servicable, they can sometimes appear to be flat but actually aren't. (The face that sits on the cam lobe)
This can Muller a cam lobe in minuits, new ones are stupidly priced from Renault also. A lot of people just re-use them. If they are not worn to much.
get some engine assembly lube, and read up as much as you can before hand, keep everything spotless when build time comes around. Find a decent engineer also.
I'm sure there are other things that I have missed that others will point out.
Hope this helps.
Check liners are ok, not scored and are within tolerance
Check crank, might be worth having it faced so new bearings can bed in nicely
Check the block too, make sure its nice and clean and cam journals are not scored up
Make sure oil pump is all ok and not scored up on the inside, might be worth fitting new refurb kit if casings ok
Check pistons, make sure no score marks on the skirts and the ringlands are ok
If all the checks out, fit it all together with new bearings (big end, mains and thrust), rings, timing chain and tensioner, gaskets and seals
You will also want to check the oil pump for wear and scoring marks, new internals usually sort this out but sometimes the pump housing scoring marks will ned to be removed first, depends how badly scored it is.
No point in bolting a shiney new lump toghether only to find it has crap oil pressure
When you split the pump you will see the face that the pump internals sit on has probably scored and you will see a circular print on it i machined mine flat as i believe quite alot of pressure could be lost here.
cheers guys all your infos help im off on the 1st oct so will start to strip it then im sure we will talk more about it on sunday
so standard internals marks ep cam going to lighten the flywheel (anyone have the best weight?) now i want the most relible horses out of this so should i gasflow or not? plus what bhp should i aim for remeber i want an all rounder ie everyday driver plus trck fun and the once a year pod run.. i know i ask alot but you guys have all done this before me so you ideas mean the world..
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
so standard internals marks ep cam going to lighten the flywheel (anyone have the best weight?) now i want the most relible horses out of this so should i gasflow or not? plus what bhp should i aim for remeber i want an all rounder ie everyday driver plus trck fun and the once a year pod run.. i know i ask alot but you guys have all done this before me so you ideas mean the world..
CTM flywheel was about 7.6kg once skimmed think these were the best and lightest flywheel's available. not cheap either mind
so its not a case of getting a place to slim mine down then? i thought some enginneers could do this?
You can get them to take some meet of the back
You can get them to take some meet of the back
so if i aim for say 8kg we should be good?
i thought standard flywheel was like 6.6kg?
mark if the cam journals are scored etc can they be sorted as there inside the block?
You are right my bad, think the CTM was about 3.5kg sorry, I am thinking of a my land rover lightened one
haha should be alot heavier than a 5 flywheel lolYou are right my bad, think the CTM was about 3.5kg sorry, I am thinking of a my land rover lightened one
I dropped my flywheel to a mate and he skimmed around 1.7/1.8kg off - i wouldnt make it any thinner unless its slotted
So how would I know if it's ballenced? I'm going to ask a guy I'm using for beadwork if he could take the meat out of the standard flywheel.. Would it not be already ballenced if taken off by a lathe?haha should be alot heavier than a 5 flywheel lol
I dropped my flywheel to a mate and he skimmed around 1.7/1.8kg off - i wouldnt make it any thinner unless its slotted
That is all i did, have the same amount taken off all around so should stay balanced, drives fine, no judder or anything.
Cheers bud.. I will get it done reading the Haynes today so should start stripping the bottom end this week :-)
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