Dave aka Shaggy?? you up for this?? I know you were thinking of a one piece
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=445
Dave aka Shaggy?? you up for this?? I know you were thinking of a one piece
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=445
I am desperate for a 2.5" rear exit system but as said my setup is different as running f7pt, I don't need the bottom downpipe that goes under car, I need it from the rear of the downpipe under the car as if it was a K-tec side exit fitting if you know what I mean? ill try get a pic
If you want James, I can make up the rear section first as that is the harder part to make with regards to clearance. If you can measure the distance from a fixed point at the rear of the car, to where your sidey ends, I can make the link pipe to your section the right length the sleeve over your existing front section. I'm jigging off the original system, so as long yours is the same distance from the floor it should fit straight up.
I've got all the parts now, the silencer is a 2.5" ID 4" OD and tip is an inward rolled 2.5" and all the bends.
Downpipe has been collected ready for a trial fitment now.
Great stuff. Fingers crossed it fits.Originally Posted by Matty
Downpipe has been collected ready for a trial fitment now.
First post!
Hi Matt are we ready to be ordering these systems yet ?? Really look good and wanting one before spring 😬
I have been told that the first one is going to be trial fitted this week.
Im keen to get the ball rolling on these too. I have all the parts for the 2.5" full systems, so as soon as the fitment is confirmed I can get the jig finished for the full systems.
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Sound mate fingers cross 👍 Just sent my t25 away so would be nice to a full system for when that comes back 😁😁😁
I have been told that the first one is going to be trial fitted this week.
Im keen to get the ball rolling on these too. I have all the parts for the 2.5" full systems, so as soon as the fitment is confirmed I can get the jig finished for the full systems.
Thanks Mark for the Pics...everything is looking good fitment wise, just the heater hose clearance to check now.
Looking good matty. Definitely quality
Should the bevels of the bottom flange be rounded rather than flat? That is the flexible coupling. The engine 'rolls' forward and rearward and the exhaust is moving all the time at that joint.
I just had a look at on old OE one and that is rounded, as it an old after market 2 1/2 one I have. The Ktec (Powerflow?) 2 1/2 however is (was) flat but does have some concave wear rubbed into it.
In an ideal world you would have a ball joint fitting at this point, or flexi on the start of the rear system. Or if money was no object a V band clamp and flexi and the system. but then they would cost more to produce, and wouldn't allow such a universal fitment for different systems, and the lower clamp location would then become redundant. The male flare on the system would have a convex form on the inner part of the flare to allow for roll, not as much as a ball joint but certainly enough.
This type of joint would last a lot longer than the compression type gaskets, that just compress over time and wear.
I'm happy to make whatever the majority want, but the more complex the system obviously the more it costs to produce, and whether the adding other complexities are worth the extra money im not so sure?
The flange on the downpipe looks bevelled in the same way as other after market GTT exhausts I've seen but then my memory is terrible. Certainly we don't want to go down the route of flexi's, even though that would be the ultimate. We just want them to fit like all the other after market exhausts.
Is it possible to see a comparison pic? Say between Matty's new one and a Magnex, or Scorpion, or Mongoose?
heater hoses will be mega close to that pipe.
I'd suggest using a tighter bend off the turbo, but then that stainless manifold isn't helping clearance matters.
A compression doughnut would only gain over that by less wear on the front pipe when their mated together and easier to rotate when the engine accelerates.
The friction of your lovely machined part up against the front pipe will probably speed up welds cracking on the cars without the front downpipe brackets.
Whenever doing stuff like this i kinda look at every angle things could break and weigh up the pros n cons
Will be checking heater hoses for Matt tomorrow evening so we know if they clear, it might be abit close but we shall see. Little trim might be needed but no hardship if does
Yeah the tubular manifold does stick out abit but if it fits this engine I have here at the moment then the downpipe should fit all engines, know some people still run these manifolds
Is a lovely piece of fabrication along with my manifold Matt has made for me
Shame there wasn't a Big Jim Racing one to copy and he seemed to have it all right as far as fitment.
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Looks spot on mate really impressed... I really want one with the full system 👍👍👍Thanks Mark for the Pics...everything is looking good fitment wise, just the heater hose clearance to check now.
The bend used is the tightest possible as it is 1 X Diameter. This design would be best for flow, over the bend and chamfered fillet section, but means it 15mm-20mm closer to bulkhead. But looking at the aftermarket manifold fitted, it wouldn't work with these being much further away from the bulkhead.
If people would prefer the compression type fitting, I'm happy to go down that route. I use these solid flare type fitting on turbo elbows and not had any issues with them breaking. But they are usually used as a fitting to allow for any misalignments than a movable joint.
I have tooling to make ball/socket joint, but you would need the system have have the correct female end to suit.
The Big Jim pipes look to be made with to half bends welded together on the first bend to taper from 3" to 2.5". As a general rule you want to avoid welding on the outside of the bends kike this as the different expansion rates from the inside compared to the outside of the bend can lead to cracking. Thats why seam welded tube is always bent with the weld on the side of the bend.
I'll head over the Marks and take a look, and see what clearance there is.
I think he made a scoop from cut shapes of 2 1/2" pipes, to bring the oval to a round, much as you have, but then joined that to a partially cut away bend so as the get the clearance to the water pipes.
His first one(s), much like yours, had more bend and less clearance and so people didn't want them. Then he made more clearance and they sold well. I don't know how much clearance was deemed sufficient.
He was using just two pre bent pieces and making the scoop at the turbo. I can only presume that the lower joint was a flat sided bevel, I'm not sure I saw one properly close up. Saw some parts ones in the making but I seem unable to recall.
We aren't getting mixed up with Ben/Boris's efforts are we (BMS)?
A pic of which is here:
From this thread:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=27469
"The BMS ones are all hand formed in a number of peices over a dolly so they don't crack, Ben spent a long time R&D the design/materials as the heat stress soon cracks them if they aren't done right. All his laser cut flanges were proper stainless too and cut down the profit margin..."
And some more pics here:
From this thread here:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=3675
Also, see post #85.
Where the Big Jim prototype stuff looked like this:
Slightly better pic of the BMS flange bevelling (from PaulB's legendary R9T):
Maybe what Jim did there was cut the end off the bend and turned it a bit, and perhaps slightly tightened the angle.
Yes that would be a weld around the outside of the bend, but it looks like it's all the same diameter pipe, so same expansion rate?
And on that one he's cut and angled piece off another pipe and grafted it onto a cut out for the wastegate gas.
The BMS pipe looks to have a very big step into the rest of the pipe. Is that what it's like from the inside as gas flow tends to not like steps, especially large ones. Seems that sometimes small steps in the right place and way can cause eddying that helps the boundary large to attach, or something.
This is coming along nicely
I have a BMS pipe to fit, If it helps and you need any pictures or information etc... Let me know before I go and fit it.
Dan
Dan, can you place the turbo flange on a flat surface and measure from the flat surface to the highest point of first bend...tape measure would be fine. If you can I can measure the one I have here to compare.This is coming along nicely
I have a BMS pipe to fit, If it helps and you need any pictures or information etc... Let me know before I go and fit it.
Dan
Dan, can you place the turbo flange on a flat surface and measure from the flat surface to the highest point of first bend...tape measure would be fine. If you can I can measure the one I have here to compare.
Let me know if you need any more info. I've attached two pictures.
20160113_072237.jpg
20160113_072446.jpg
Dan, what is the approximate measurement? Bit difficult to see from that pic's angle. Maybe put a piece of card flat over the high point of the bend and against the back of the measuring tape?
20160113_103216.jpg
like this?
Exactly like that I imagine. Ace.
Throw spanner in the works here's mine fitted and tested will be for sale soon also
That's spot on. I've measured the one I have here and it's 130mm so 15mm closer to the bulkhead. I'll arrange with Mark to have a look at it fitted, and see if it needs moving.
I'll offer up the 2.5" front section of system too.
I popped over to see Mark this evening and had a look at the downpipe fitment. Everything looks good to me, and more clearance on the heater matrix pipes than I thought!
I'm happy with this design after seeing it fitted up, so I'm ready to get the ball rolling on these.
Looks good to me matty!
Ace
Brilliant. The heater matrix pipes aren't fitted in that picture but I assume you've tried them with attached to check clearance? This was the main issue when I was trialling it. If clearance is good and they bolt up nicely lets start the ball rolling
Hi Alex, not tried it with pipes fitted but there is a good 2" clearance on the matrix stubs. I have moved the angle of the pipe further up since the one you tried to clear the heat sheild bracket and it has moved the downpipe further away from the stubs.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi Matt.. Is it possible to order one yet ?? Cheers
A list of people who definitely want to buy one of these:
Mccrackle27 ?
A list of people who definitely want to buy one of these:
Mccrackle27 ?
Alex
Can someone take a pic of the finished article so I can get the interest on fb?
I have the finished downpipe here with me, I can get pics of it tomorrow
Cheers Mark
Matt, the downpipe hasn't changed since the pic you out up last time. I can get some pictures of the one I have here if Mark can't. The fitted pictures are good that Mark took in this thread.
Here is a picture of the downpipe I have here.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Yes mate definitely 👍
Mccrackle27
Alex
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
It's all gone quite on the exhaust front ??
Know Matts bit busy with being ready to move into a new unit of his, sure he will be on it soon
I'm ready to make these whenever. I just need to know numbers to get the material ordered up to make a batch up.
I've advertised these on FB
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